|
|
Post by onequiknova on Jul 20, 2012 20:27:14 GMT -8
While contemplating how to proceed on my Budd bi level project, I dug this model out of the closet. It's an OMI Rock Island commuter version E6 #630. I'm not too sure how many were made, but it's not listed in the brass guides, and I have yet to see another one. I picked it up on Ebay 5 or 6 years ago, but wasn't happy with the detail on it, so in the closet it went. I corrected some of the issues, like the missing HEP fans and the exposed radiators, but it's still not 100%. I'll probably re Ebay it one of these days and built a proper 630 out of plastic. The thing I hate most about painting brass is all the details are soldered on, so if something is in the way, you either have to unsolder things or try to mask around them. I chose to remove a couple grabs and mask around the rest. Here it is ready for it's third color. I tried a new tape called Frog tape, but I won't use it again. Although it's great for masking your bedroom walls, it's too thick for modeling purposes. burnishing the edges caused too much distortion. I'll stick with my cheap thin masking tape next time.   And mostly finished, it still needs a few odds and ends like headlight lenses. I'll weather it if I decide to keep it.   I'm happy with the way the wings came out. I had to fudge them a bit since the number boards and class lights are too high on the model, but they look "right" to me. I've seen some pretty gnarly looking wings before. I should mention that the nose herald is too small, as far as I know nobody makes the correct size. Here's a proto pic for comparison. www.rrpicturearchives.net/pictures%5C68656%5CCRIP%20630%20E-6A%20Blue%20Island,IL%2012%2729%2770.jpg This model came nickel plated, but only the side panels were stainless on the prototype. The roof, end, side door and side louvers are all painted silver. masking all those louvers was time consuming.  Probably two of the rarest loco's in the country still in revenue serive by the mid 70's.   |
|
|
|
Post by Judge Doom on Jul 20, 2012 23:45:47 GMT -8
Nice job on that E6! Oddball locos and oldies make commuter modeling tolerable  I find that the green painters tape is good for quickly masking large areas you might not want sprayed, but not the best for the finer stuff (that's when the masking or Tamiya tape comes into play). And it's not the greatest at sticking either, which can be good or bad depending on the circumstances... |
|
|
|
Post by tracktime on Jul 21, 2012 0:05:26 GMT -8
Beautiful modeling. For masking tape, have you tried Tamiya Masking Tape? It is wonderful. Conforms beautifully to all sorts of surfaces and sticks just right (not too much, not too little).
Best Regards,
Harry
|
|
|
|
Post by buffalobill on Jul 21, 2012 4:52:53 GMT -8
John, a really nice looking model. Great paint job. I agree that the Tamiya tape is a great product, a little expensive for large jobs, but easy to remove. I would definitely consider that Rock E-6-A a keeper.
Bill
|
|
|
|
Post by rhpd42002 on Jul 21, 2012 7:16:06 GMT -8
Excellent work on that E6, John. If it runs well, or you can make it run well, I'd keep it. The Rock HAD to keep equipment like that in running/servicable condition. As you well know, they weren't exactly flush with cash! |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2012 8:15:39 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Jul 21, 2012 8:27:58 GMT -8
Good looking E unit.
|
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Jul 21, 2012 8:37:20 GMT -8
Thanks guys. Maybe I'll give the Tamiya tape a try. I'm always open to try new things. Huh, that's the first time I've seen that. At least it's not in the same paint scheme as mine.  They got the radiators wrong like OMI did. They were exposed it's entire commuter life. The 630 currently has covers over it's radiators, but that was a post Rock Island addition. Are those sides painted silver? |
|
Deleted
Deleted Member
Posts: 0
|
Post by Deleted on Jul 21, 2012 8:42:17 GMT -8
Are those side painted silver? The Key model looks painted to me. |
|
|
|
Post by calzephyr on Jul 21, 2012 9:40:47 GMT -8
John
A very nice model and the masking does take a lot of time.
The paint looks very nice.
Larry
|
|
|
|
Post by edwardsutorik on Jul 21, 2012 10:52:51 GMT -8
That'll be in O scale--a bit out of our league. Mine, at least. Ed |
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Jul 21, 2012 12:22:07 GMT -8
That'll be in O scale--a bit out of our league. Mine, at least. Ed I didn't even notice that. I did notice a very gross paint error on the front of the as built RI E6 in rocket rocket paint. |
|
|
|
Post by gbc636 on Jul 21, 2012 13:57:21 GMT -8
Boy John. That E6 sure looks familiar. I remember when you got it and all the work you were looking to do to get it close. Didn't turn out all that bad.
|
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Jul 21, 2012 14:27:07 GMT -8
Boy John. That E6 sure looks familiar. I remember when you got it and all the work you were looking to do to get it close. Didn't turn out all that bad. Thanks Greg. I figured you might remember it. As you know, it's still not 100%, but the rest of the changes would have been a pain on a brass model. |
|
|
|
Post by bnsf971 on Jul 21, 2012 18:23:08 GMT -8
As you know, it's still not 100%, but the rest of the changes would have been a pain on a brass model. Would that be "a pain in the brass?' Har, har... Seriously, I also like the E6B/a you have in the photo. What can you tell us about it? |
|
|
|
Post by craigz on Jul 22, 2012 7:13:37 GMT -8
Mercy. Those look fantastic. What's not to like about the Rock Island?
|
|
|
|
Post by rockisland652 on Jul 25, 2012 7:02:05 GMT -8
What's not to like? Nothing.  Even the stuff that never existed is cool...  |
|
|
|
Post by rockfan on Sept 4, 2012 3:50:25 GMT -8
The AB6 was part of the Rocky Mountain Rocket, used as a B unit until the train split in two, used as an A, then reverse the process for the trip back.
|
|
|
|
Post by calzephyr on Sept 4, 2012 12:53:36 GMT -8
What's not to like? Nothing. Even the stuff that never existed is cool... I like the paint job on the 106. Is that a Kato?? The lower number boards seem to indicate it is UP type cab and not the high number boards that the S.P. ordered, which the Rock used to exchange cars with. The E unit is nice also. Thanks Larry |
|
|
|
Post by stevef45 on Sept 4, 2012 13:57:05 GMT -8
Beautiful modeling. For masking tape, have you tried Tamiya Masking Tape? It is wonderful. Conforms beautifully to all sorts of surfaces and sticks just right (not too much, not too little). Best Regards, Harry I also use Tamiya tape. I also use masking tape from pearl paint. |
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Sept 4, 2012 18:15:57 GMT -8
Beautiful modeling. For masking tape, have you tried Tamiya Masking Tape? It is wonderful. Conforms beautifully to all sorts of surfaces and sticks just right (not too much, not too little). Best Regards, Harry I also use Tamiya tape. I also use masking tape from pearl paint. I used Tamiya for the first time on my RI E8 in the other thread. I honestly didn't get any sharper paint lines than I do with my regular cheap yellow masking tape. That's with a cut edge and burnishing. |
|
|
|
Post by theengineshed on Sept 5, 2012 14:55:28 GMT -8
The thin Tamiya masking tape, 6mm, is what I use for getting the tape to conform to the edges between colors. Then I come back with wider cheaper stuff to actually mask the rest of the model. I'm not so sure that it gives you a superior edge so much as the width allows the tape to deform better to follow curves. The 6mm stuff is very convenient in that regard, and the dispenser speeds things up...
|
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Sept 5, 2012 18:41:53 GMT -8
The thin Tamiya masking tape, 6mm, is what I use for getting the tape to conform to the edges between colors. Then I come back with wider cheaper stuff to actually mask the rest of the model. I'm not so sure that it gives you a superior edge so much as the width allows the tape to deform better to follow curves. The 6mm stuff is very convenient in that regard, and the dispenser speeds things up... Gotcha. I always lay a piece of regular masking tape on a piece of glass and cut my strips to whatever width I need. I was hoping for crisper lines with the Tamiya. Not that they came out that bad, but it could still be sharper. Maybe I'll go back to respraying over the mask with my base color. |
|
|
|
Post by el3637 on Sept 5, 2012 22:36:18 GMT -8
Nice nice nice.
I have never done a successful masking job involving curves. I will eventually. Last year at Lisle I picked up a pair of OMI Santa Fe E1s. I have the decals; the bodies are plated, but unpainted. I get to mask the warbonnet... although the separation lines don't have to be perfect - the decal stripes will cover them a bit. My plan is to trace the decals and then use that as a pattern for the tape. As to grabs and other obstacles- haven't really looked at it yet. I need these locos to pull my 1937 Super Chief.
Probably the most difficult paint job I ever did was a B&O E6 A-B set. I painted up Cary's metal shells, adding no details. The paint job turned out pretty nice, thanks to using old Floquil colors and a pretty accurate mixing guide. The colors are very close to the B&O F units that Athearn released in their Genesis line back around 2002, which I think they nailed. Just the right amount of greenish tint in the gray.
All of my other warbonnets are factory Genesis units - F units, a couple of FP45s, and some rather aged P2K E8s.
Andy
|
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Sept 6, 2012 3:36:21 GMT -8
Hey Andy, instead of tracing, you could just scan the decals and cut your pattern out of the scan with scissors. You might leave less Room for error that way.
|
|
|
|
Post by calzephyr on Sept 6, 2012 8:47:24 GMT -8
Nice nice nice. I have never done a successful masking job involving curves. I will eventually. Last year at Lisle I picked up a pair of OMI Santa Fe E1s. I have the decals; the bodies are plated, but unpainted. I get to mask the warbonnet... although the separation lines don't have to be perfect - the decal stripes will cover them a bit. My plan is to trace the decals and then use that as a pattern for the tape. As to grabs and other obstacles- haven't really looked at it yet. I need these locos to pull my 1937 Super Chief. Probably the most difficult paint job I ever did was a B&O E6 A-B set. I painted up Cary's metal shells, adding no details. The paint job turned out pretty nice, thanks to using old Floquil colors and a pretty accurate mixing guide. The colors are very close to the B&O F units that Athearn released in their Genesis line back around 2002, which I think they nailed. Just the right amount of greenish tint in the gray. All of my other warbonnets are factory Genesis units - F units, a couple of FP45s, and some rather aged P2K E8s. Andy I use Draftsman or graphic type tape to define the basic curves for the curves on diesels or other paint schemes that have curves. They have many widths of that type of tape and after it is in place, other tapes can be attached to the draftsman tape to cover the needed area. The tape can be curved and sticks very well to define the curve. It can be purchased in Office supply stores and the 1/8 or less width can be very useful in painting model trains. I also use the 1/32 or 1/64 width on running boards of steam locomotives if they are painted white and need masking prior to the black being applied. Larry |
|
|
|
Post by el3637 on Sept 6, 2012 14:06:44 GMT -8
Hey Andy, instead of tracing, you could just scan the decals and cut your pattern out of the scan with scissors. You might leave less Room for error that way. Good idea. Now if I could just get my printer to print directly onto the tape  I haven't done much yet with making my own decals. Most of the need it seems is for specific stuff - reporting marks and spec data in white - that I can't do with a typical printer. I've had some offers to do custom runs, but I'd have to gather a bunch of projects together and create a usable artwork file to justify the expense. I keep hoping someone will come up with a reasonably priced printer that will do white, but I guess outside of the model building circle, there isn't much demand for it. I've also wondered if it would be possible to fool a color printer by putting white ink into a cartridge and making it think it's some other color. That's assuming you could even buy the right type of bulk ink. I think inkjet printer ink costs more than gold by weight.... Andy |
|
|
|
Post by onequiknova on Sept 6, 2012 14:20:40 GMT -8
Hey Andy, instead of tracing, you could just scan the decals and cut your pattern out of the scan with scissors. You might leave less Room for error that way. Good idea. Now if I could just get my printer to print directly onto the tape Andy Hmm. They do make full sheets of sticker paper with a peel of backing to use with an ink jet printer. I wonder how well it would work for masking. As far as making my own decals, I tried once. The ink washed away in the water when I went to apply them. That was after a coat of dulcoat to seal them. |
|
|
|
Post by theengineshed on Sept 6, 2012 18:25:39 GMT -8
I've also wondered if it would be possible to fool a color printer by putting white ink into a cartridge and making it think it's some other color. That's assuming you could even buy the right type of bulk ink. That's actually the old Alps trick to print white. Switch the cartridge bar code label between the black and white cartridges. Even then you have to use a few more trick to increase opacity. I'd be very surprised if you could get ink that was opaque enough to give you a a nice solid white and still flow through those tiny print orifices. My Alps MD-1000 can do nice whites, but the supplies are now few and far between. When Alps stopped producing their printers, was a dark day for the hobby... |
|
|
|
Post by theengineshed on Sept 6, 2012 18:31:58 GMT -8
John- That model of #630 is very nice, really looks the part. Brings back lots memories. Here is a shot in the great hall at Silvis:  CRI&P630SilvisILAug79ppp by Engine Shed, on Flickr |
|
