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Post by antoniofp45 on May 17, 2012 16:33:43 GMT -8
Hello Crew, Recently I visited the Suncoast Model Railroad Club to bring over samples of HO passenger cars that I metalized with Alclad2 in various finishes. Great group of welcoming, friendly modelers. My wife and I took over 40 photos. Below are some of the better shots. My apologies since the photo quality isn't outstanding as they were taken with an Apple Tablet (or whatever that thing is called). Picks up florescent lighting rather oddly. My reliable camera's batteries went "kaputz" earlier (talk about timing!). The members present understood that I was a volunteer tester for Alclad2 and that Tony Hipp is in the process of gathering feedback from passenger train modelers before releasing the new easy-to-use formulas onto the market. I requested that the group be blunt about the finishes. My wife also recorded the verbal comments from the club's membership. The responses were positive and constructive; especially from the club's president, who is knowledgeable about prototype passenger equipment and operations. I forwarded the responses from the group to Tony. His idea is to keep this as simple and user friendly as possible. Although there are variables in real life, for this there are 4 BASIC categories: A. New/Restored Appearance: Excellent condition. 1 to 5 years average age. High Reflectivity. Dark SS tone. B. Moderate Age/Wear Appearance: Very Good/ Well Maintained Condition. 5 to 15 year average age range; Good to Moderate Reflectivity. Medium to Dark SS tone. C. Aged Appearance: Generally clean; but worn SS surface that has lightened in color. Moderate Reflectivity. Light SS tone. D. Neglected Appearance: Faded surface; Low SS reflectivity. Light SS tone. I have Categories A thru C represented. There is much more detail but that's putting it simply. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- The Apple Tablet has no flash, so florescent lighting can cast some odd effects. This "Riv" coach was donated to the Club. I refinished it into Category B: Interestingly, the units I had refinished in Category B were the most liked. I based that finish on several photos from rail photographer/modeler Stan Jackowski and Jason Shron of Rapido, both who very graciously allowed me to use their photos as reference, as well as my research into #7 and #8 prototype reflective stainless steel finishes. Here is a comparison between an SCL prototype photographed by Stan and the Category B coach (outdoor photo) I refinished for the club: These two Riv units are Category C while the Riv coach and Walthers diner are in Categories B & A, respectively: Contrasts: Rivarossi Diner: Category C .......................... Rivarossi Coach: Category B Shots of the SCL streamliner headed by ex-ACL E6A "race horse" #502. Here are a couple of shots with one of Stan Jackowski's beautiful El Capitan units parked next to the SCL train, then coupled on to the train's diner. There are more photos but I plan on using my camera for better photos next time. I did not weather the bodies as my intent was to show the actual finishes. Please keep in mind that this is not intended to compete with Walthers and Rapido, but rather to complement them as an option for modelers wanting to build up their own "Steel Fleets". The intent is to bring passenger car modeling to a higher, more realistic and enjoyable level. Please remember that SS finishes vary on prototypes, even within the same manufacturer. It's OK to run multiple finishes within the same train, but the choice is always yours. Also remember that SS finishes vary on prototypes, even within the same manufacturer. Cool factor is that you choose your finish. Here's a nice example from David Graham. Look at the two Budds: ----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------I owe a lot of "Thank Yous" to the Suncoast Model Railroader's Club's membership and president, Jim Langston, for willing to help out in this and for allowing me to display the units on the club's beautiful layout. Super group of guys and Thanks again to Stan Jackowski and Jason Shron. Also to the Tampa Bay Railroad Prototype Modeler's Group for their input during their last gathering.
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Post by calzephyr on May 17, 2012 17:35:12 GMT -8
Antonio Very nice work. I have been admiring the SS look that you have done but have never tried that method. You saw my cars in the comparison photobucket that I sent you way a few months ago since I have purchased the trains in both brass and plastic. Your work is first rate and the look is excellent. Thanks for sharing. Larry
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Post by rhpd42002 on May 18, 2012 4:08:12 GMT -8
Very nice looking cars and excellent work!
That's not a road I ever intend to follow, but it's nice that you and others have.
Looking forward to more pics.
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 18, 2012 15:41:29 GMT -8
Mike, Larry thank you very much. Larry, thanks for having shared your photos with me. Mike I hear ya, but with decals from Microscale you can have SS cars in NYC, Santa Fe, Southern, Rock Island, CB&Q, C&EI, ACL, B&M, FEC......and modern units as well. My step by step thread from the old Atlas forum seems to be intact, for now: forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=66868You probably remember this one: forum.atlasrr.com/forum/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=67845The new formulas will enable passenger car modelers to refinish their cars even faster than in the past.
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Post by riggelweg on May 20, 2012 8:12:01 GMT -8
Very informative post. Thanks!
SEPTA in Southeast Penna. still runs Silverliner IIs and IIIs, which are Budd cars that survive from the Pennsy. They date from 1962-63 and 1967 respectively, and they definitely have very low reflectivity.
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Post by rhpd42002 on May 20, 2012 10:08:55 GMT -8
I have to admit, Antonio, that your work makes me want to acquire enough cars to build a couple of short, CB&Q trains, but my layout won't support those cars. My curves barely let me run some 60' freight and 60' "shorty" passenger cars. Those cars and your work are truly impressive, that's for sure.
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 22, 2012 2:04:00 GMT -8
I have to admit, Antonio, that your work makes me want to acquire enough cars to build a couple of short, CB&Q trains, but my layout won't support those cars. My curves barely let me run some 60' freight and 60' "shorty" passenger cars. Those cars and your work are truly impressive, that's for sure. Thank you very much. I post photos of my work to encourage passenger train modelers to consider giving this a whirl. CB&Q? That railroad had a fleet of gorgeous Budds. Would be really cool to see a modeler metalize his/her units into the Burlington scheme; especially the dome cars. Don't feel bad as I'm still building a shelf/wall layout that's going around a 10 x 11 room, so the curves are really tight. But since I like passenger trains so much I've installed Kadee 40 series couplers on the cars to go around 24" radius curves. Is your setup an industrial switching type layout?
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Post by rhpd42002 on May 22, 2012 15:56:39 GMT -8
Antonio, my layout isn't a "shelf style" layout, but it was built with switching in mind. The original portion is a slightly modified and lengthened version of Atlas' Morgan Valley RR plan. Then I expanded on it by making another larger loop and a few more sidings. I also added a 7 track yard to draw cars from, to be delivered to the "main" portion of the layout. Then a switcher delivers/picks up cars from the various sidings. I run it as an out & back type of operation. Most of my curves are in the 18" and 15" range with a couple a bit sharper in the yard trackage leads. Scenery is virtually non-existant as the layout (built in a semi-modular fashion) is in it's 3rd and most likely final structure. Not trying/wanting to hijack your topic, but here are a few pics of the layout. I hope I didn't step on any toes with the pics.
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 22, 2012 17:38:27 GMT -8
Mike,
Thanks for the pictures. It's on topic since I asked you about your layout as I wondered how it was you didn't have track space for at 24" radius.
With your track plan, I can see how you stay busy with switching operations. I do see a couple of areas that, just from my observation, you can make modifications to include wider radius curves. But it would involve the center module and the mainline module with the bridge to be expanded outward just a few more inches. But that's just me thinking. IMHO, it's appropriate that a CB&Q modeler have at least an E-unit and a few Budds on display from time to time to change the scene up a bit. The Burlington had a large fleet of streamliners and service was outstanding until president Lou Menk arrived.
Looking forward to seeing photos when you have more scenery down.
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 25, 2012 2:28:22 GMT -8
Someone asked me details regarding the new Alclad formulas on another forum. I'll post my answer here too:
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Sorry for not previously mentioned the details.
I used Scale Coat II underneath the Alclad metalizers to get the "look" I was aiming for. The catch with Scale Coat II is that you must allow it to cure properly before applying Alclad2 on top of it. Otherwise, the Alclad2 solvents will attack the uncured Scale Coat II finish (yes, I've had that happen before).
While some modelers in the past recommended that I wait a week or more to allow Scale Coat to cure, I found that in 3-4 days my SC2 finish was tough enough and did not crack. Primary factor is temperature and humidity.
Alclad2 has recently developed new, high gloss basecoat colors specifically for stainless steel railroad cars. You airbrush them on to your model as you would Scale Coat II, except that (cool factor 1) no thinning is required. Then (cool factor 2) you can apply the Alclad2 metalizer.......20 minutes later! Then follow up with clear coat. Twenty minutes? That got my attention very quickly.
The Alclad clear coats, which I have, are second to none. No thinning, fast curing and they can actually be used over other paint brands.
So basically, instead of waiting several days to have that stainless steel look for a rail car you're metalizing, you will be able to do it on the same day. Win-win. In my case, I'll be able to metalize batches of old-run Walthers & Riv cars very quickly.
Tony Hipp has allowed me and a few other modelers to test the samples. I was impressed.
I don't know when they'll be ready but from our last communication, it won't be far in the future. However, he wants to make sure that they're right as he tests every formula before releasing them on to the market.
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Post by rhpd42002 on May 25, 2012 3:54:30 GMT -8
Antonio, that method, with those materials, sure makes it sound simple enough to do. I believe I have an unbuilt, Athearn, BB baggage or RPO car, that I might be able to try that on. Other than removing the minimal black lettering from the car, would this work over Athearn's silver painted cars or should I try it on an undec, black car? Just curious as it could be a future project.
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 25, 2012 13:30:00 GMT -8
Mike,
I've noticed that, depending on the manufacturer (Athearn, Rivarossi, Walthers, Con-Cor, etc), silver painted surfaces tend to be slightly textured due to the pigment particles which tend to be slightly larger than solid color pigments.
Silver finishes can even vary sometimes within the same manufacturer. Years back I bought a new Life Like P1K New Haven RDC. The NH logos were beautiful but the silver finish, which had a bit of yellow tint in it, was one of the roughest I've seen from a manufacturer. The metallic particles were rather large for use on HO scale. YET, the other P1K RDCs with different roadnames had smoother silver finishes that were slightly grayer. Go figure.
Best that the surface be undecorated or paint stripped. However, as an absolute last resort (although I don't recommend it, I've tried it and got decent results after a lot of effort) you can wet-sand the surface to a smooth finish, starting with 600 grit, then finish with 1500 grit using a non-moisturizer liquid soap, like Dawn. Can be a bit time consuming and you have to be cautious sanding between the fluting as you don't want to accidentally sand down the fluting ribs.
Practice first on a plastic sample, such as a boxcar shell, piece of styrene, or a compact disc case with a smooth surface. The so called "learning curve" to Alclad is getting the hang of "misting on" each coat and to avoid the tendency of applying it wet as we normally do with acrylic and solvent based paints. Once you master the "misting" everything else basically falls right into place.
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Post by calzephyr on May 25, 2012 14:22:19 GMT -8
Mike, I've noticed that, depending on the manufacturer (Athearn, Rivarossi, Walthers, Con-Cor, etc), silver painted surfaces tend to be slightly textured due to the pigment particles which tend to be slightly larger than solid color pigments. Silver finishes can even vary sometimes within the same manufacturer. Years back I bought a new Life Like P1K New Haven RDC. The NH logos were beautiful but the silver finish, which had a bit of yellow tint in it, was one of the roughest I've seen from a manufacturer. The metallic particles were rather large for use on HO scale. YET, the other P1K RDCs with different roadnames had smoother silver finishes that were slightly grayer. Go figure. Best that the surface be undecorated or paint stripped. However, as an absolute last resort (although I don't recommend it, I've tried it and got decent results after a lot of effort) you can wet-sand the surface to a smooth finish, starting with 600 grit, then finish with 1500 grit using a non-moisturizer liquid soap, like Dawn. Can be a bit time consuming and you have to be cautious sanding between the fluting as you don't want to accidentally sand down the fluting ribs. Practice first on a plastic sample, such as a boxcar shell, piece of styrene, or a compact disc case with a smooth surface. The so called "learning curve" to Alclad is getting the hang of "misting on" each coat and to avoid the tendency of applying it wet as we normally do with acrylic and solvent based paints. Once you master the "misting" everything else basically falls right into place. Antonio I have painted many models over the years and the best paint jobs are the ones that have no other paint below them. Your advice on not painting over any other paint is the best for Alclad and any other types of paint. Always start on the basic metal or plastic surface to get the best results and spay your own primer is needed. Larry
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Post by KIM on May 25, 2012 14:22:34 GMT -8
Antonio, the only problem I have with the first two pictures of the passenger car, is that my eyes are drawn to that magnificent building in the background. It took me awhile to finally decide that it is a model...I think.
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 25, 2012 15:32:57 GMT -8
Douglas, You're referring to this: www.walthers.com/exec/productinfo/933-2943The club replaced the previous station with this Milwaukee style station. Understandable as it is an architectural beauty! Here is the station that it replaced (sorry for the long url) [a href="[a href="http://www.suncoastmrrc.com/Flash_Slideshow/EnlargedPhoto.swf?onPress=[type+Function]&imagePath=%2FFlash_Slideshow%2FHO+Scale+Layout%2FUnionTerminal.jpg"]http://www.suncoastmrrc.com/Flash_Slideshow/EnlargedPhoto.swf?onPress=[type+Function]&imagePath=%2FFlash_Slideshow%2FHO+Scale+Layout%2FUnionTerminal.jpg[/a]"][a href="http://www.suncoastmrrc.com/Flash_Slideshow/EnlargedPhoto.swf?onPress=[type+Function]&imagePath=%2FFlash_Slideshow%2FHO+Scale+Layout%2FUnionTerminal.jpg"]http://www.suncoastmrrc.com/Flash_Slideshow/EnlargedPhoto.swf?onPress=[type+Function]&imagePath=%2FFlash_Slideshow%2FHO+Scale+Layout%2FUnionTerminal.jpg[/a][/a]
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 27, 2012 5:16:31 GMT -8
OK, This is to answer a question regarding using Union Station Products parts under Alclad. Rather than posting a new thread, I'll just answer it here. Hope you guys don't mind. The answer is yes, Alclad works just fine over USP, TSP, parts. Here is a 1970s AHM blunt-end observation car that I posted about a few years ago. Paint stripping was easy. Just soaked it in alchohol and scrubbed off the paint with a tooth brush. Washed it in warm soap and water and dried. Applied the Union Station Products Pullman Standard fluting with Tenax adhesive. (note: Always wash and scrub USP fluting sides as there is usually a small amount of "pixie dust" residue between the fluting pleats). Applied the gray basecoat ( I think I used Scale Coat 2). Allowed to cure a few days. Applied Alclad and done! Not shown is the clear coat, which is why the unit appears very reflective.
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Post by Donnell Wells on May 27, 2012 10:21:55 GMT -8
Hey Antonio,
Do you have any larger size photos of your work? It has always looked great, but the pics are a tad small.
Donnell
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Post by antoniofp45 on May 29, 2012 15:51:11 GMT -8
Hey Antonio, Do you have any larger size photos of your work? It has always looked great, but the pics are a tad small. Donnell Thanks Donnell, I thought I was being considerate as on one forum I was asked to go easy on the size of the photos. I think it may have been on Atlas, but I'm not sure as I'm a member of several forums. I assumed that large photos or that posting many photos takes up too much band width.
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Post by Donnell Wells on May 29, 2012 18:27:24 GMT -8
Hi Antonio
The pics you've already posted are 320 x 218. I think they should be 640 x 480 at the very minimum, but 800 x 600 or larger would be preferred! Plus, it would give us even more clarity to see and admire your stunning work!
Remember, your photos are hosted at another site unless you upload them directly as an attachment. In thecase of the latter, this forum was allotted 4 GB of space for attachments. We've only used 5 MB of that, so there is plenty of room for larger photos either way!
Donnell
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Post by calzephyr on May 30, 2012 10:32:23 GMT -8
Hey Antonio, Do you have any larger size photos of your work? It has always looked great, but the pics are a tad small. Donnell Thanks Donnell, I thought I was being considerate as on one forum I was asked to go easy on the size of the photos. I think it may have been on Atlas, but I'm not sure as I'm a member of several forums. I assumed that large photos or that posting many photos takes up too much band width. Antonio I noticed some work another modeler did on TO and gave you credit for his knowledge of how to use the Alclad paint and the procedure you had laid out. Nice to see others doing this using the instructions you gave us. Thanks Larry
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Post by antoniofp45 on Jun 3, 2012 9:38:41 GMT -8
CalZephyr,
Thanks. I'm glad the info has been helpful. I enjoy passenger trains very much and my angle to this is that I'm not trying to sell Alclad, as there are other metalizing products on the market. I just got a bit frustrated years back of constantly seeing prototype Budd cars with gleaming SS appearances (even while dirty or semi-worn), then afterwards seeing HO passenger car models repainted in Floquil Silver and still feeling "Nice, but it's just not there".
The modeler who posted the Alclad article in the 2003 Model Railroader issue (July or August) deserves a huge handshake and pat on the back for refinishing those N-Scale RDC units and introducing Alclad2 to passenger rail modeling. After I saw that article, I started fantasizing then about having a "Great Steel Fleet" (as the New York Central used to say) of SS streamliners.
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Post by antoniofp45 on Jun 10, 2012 4:50:55 GMT -8
Guys, something that I'd like to clear up regarding questions about airbrushing I've received via my personal email. Yes, you can spray the Alclad's metalizer, clears, and basecoat colors with a single action airbrush! A dual action airbrush is not necessary. If you have a good quality, single action unit such as a Badger 150, or a Paasche' H........it will work fine. Alclad's owner, Tony Hipp, uses single action units to test Alclad. I use dual action airbrushes simply because that's my preference. In addition to welding and fabrication, I performed many paint jobs in my former career at a transit system shop, so my equipment had to be versatile since it was hard to predict what type of challenging project my boss was going to hurl at me....uh....that is, present me and my crew with. Not a shameless promotion for Paasche VL' as there are plenty of good airbrushes on the market........but I've been using the Paasche' VL for metalizing due to its ruggedness as a workhorse and the needle/air cap setup versatility. A modeler can use its standard #3 (medium) setup and get excellent results. I typically use the #3 for all of my solid colors and clear coats where good flowout and leveling is essential. But by being able to switch to a #1 (fine) setup, I wind up using slghtly less metalizer material and get outstanding atomization. Doesn't seem like much.....unless you're doing a large number of units as in my case. In addition to metalizing my personal fleet of Walthers and Rivarossi units, I've been recently asked to refinish a fleet of streamlined units for a group. So, the ability to switch aircap/needle sizes winds up being a money saver. To make things easier and faster, I now keep two VLs in my work area. One is with a #3 setup, the other with a #1 setup. However, if one unit goes down, I automatically have a backup since parts are interchangable. So by all means go with your personal preference.
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Post by mlehman on Jun 11, 2012 22:49:24 GMT -8
Amazing work. Probably way beyond anything I'd do with passenger rolling stock, but I appreciate the research and work you've done to improve the state of the art in this part of the hobby. Equally admirable is your willingness to share with others.
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Post by antoniofp45 on Jun 20, 2012 10:49:55 GMT -8
Thank you very much, Mhleman Guys, Regarding an email I received, I thought this would be worth passing on again. Please DO NOT use Dullcote to seal decals. Use Clear coat! I prefer the Alclad clears because they're specifically designed for Alclad (no thinning is required, flow out is excellent, and they dry/cure very quickly). I was skeptical at first until I tried them. However, if you are in a pinch, Testor's Acryl and Polly Scale gloss and semi-gloss clears will work. High Greens
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Post by atsfan on Jun 23, 2012 6:05:02 GMT -8
Check out airplane modeling and Alclad paint for some amazing metal looking finishing.
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Post by calzephyr on Jun 30, 2012 15:43:33 GMT -8
Check out airplane modeling and Alclad paint for some amazing metal looking finishing. Yes, that bunch of modelers have really had a field day with the Alclad paint. I have admired their work and it is very good. Larry
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Post by antoniofp45 on Sept 9, 2012 7:30:27 GMT -8
I had forgotten to post these shots here. Had to stop for a while due to work/family demands but I'm back in the saddle again and hope to work steadily during the afternoons to get more cars done as well as some buses I know that I need to add details. I ordered the airhose kits by phone from Bowser but mistakenly gave the wrong part number to the rep, so I now have 10 packs of freight car hair hose sets! I'll order the passenger versions asap and install them. Of course so they don't go to waste, I'll install the hoses I received on my best looking freight cars much later down the line. My current modeling priorities are metalizing passenger cars and painting/detailing E-units.
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Post by calzephyr on Sept 9, 2012 11:00:00 GMT -8
I had forgotten to post these shots here. Had to stop for a while due to work/family demands but I'm back in the saddle again and hope to work steadily during the afternoons to get more cars done as well as some buses I know that I need to add details. I ordered the airhose kits by phone from Bowser but mistakenly gave the wrong part number to the rep, so I now have 10 packs of freight car hair hose sets! I'll order the passenger versions asap and install them. Of course so they don't go to waste, I'll install the hoses I received on my best looking freight cars much later down the line. My current modeling priorities are metalizing passenger cars and painting/detailing E-units. Antonio Thanks for posting the pictures of your latest work. They really look nice! Larry
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Post by antlorch on Sept 13, 2012 15:15:30 GMT -8
Antonio,
I have a couple questions for you that I didn't see on here. First a little background on what I am trying to do. I have a proto-freelance railroad name Kansas Pacific in the time frame of 1996-1997. I am building an Executive/Officers special for my railroad and I would like to us the Alclad2 but I am also doing another color on the cars too. I am using the Walthers fluted side cars for this project. The cars are going to represent a very well maintained set. The top half and roof are going to be green, the paint I use for this is Tru-Color BCRAIL Green. Then of course decals of a stripe and lettering.
My question is can I use the Tru-color and Alclad together without any issues? Which do I do first, Alclad the Tru-Color or the other way around? Which Alclad do you suggust I use for this? Also i want the cars to be shiny,what clear do you recommend? From what I have read you should use a Alclad black base before the SS color to help with the shine. Anyway I am sure I am missing something here so any help would be great. I am really impressed with the way your cars have turned out. Thank you for any help and suggestions. I can post painted drawings for you to get a better idea if needed.
Anthony
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Post by antoniofp45 on Sept 15, 2012 4:14:34 GMT -8
Hi Antlorch, To be certain I understand: You're creating an OCS train using Walthers classic Budd (and Pullman Standard?) fluted streamlined cars. From the window section to the roof, the cars will feature a solid green color, while the fluted section below will be in a stainless steel finish. Is this correct? Question: Are the ends and diaphram plates going to be stainless or painted? A diagram would be helpful. Unless your units are already undecorated, I'm assuming that you will paint strip your cars. (91% alcohol works well). Imho, yes you can work with both products on your units. There is more than one approach you can take. Since you're using an acrylic product for the top half of each car, my suggestion would be to apply the more aggressive products first which would be the solvent basecoat color and the Alclad metalizer. Clean and mask off the top half of your units. 1. For the basecoat color, I suggest that modelers NOT USE BLACK. Your cars' tone will appear too dark. Black is appropriate for a "chrome appearance" not stainless steel. Use New York Central Dark Gray. I currently use Scale Coat 2 under Alclad2 because of it's high gloss yield and smooth flow out characteristics. Thin it at least 50%. Allow it to cure several days, then apply Alclad #107 in thin, even mist coats. The Alclad 107 will give you the "high shine". When finished, you can seal it with Alclad #600 Aqua Klear (water based) or Alclad #310 High Gloss Klear. Although clears from other brands will work over Alclad2 (Model Master, Acryl, Pollyscale) Alclad's clears dry and cure to a smooth, tough finish so you won't have to worry about masking tape lifting them off. After trying Alclad2 clears, I stopped using Future Floor finish. Once the clear coat(s) cures, mask off the metalized section. You should use a high quality masking tape product that seals well to avoid leakage. Burnish the edge well. Apply your acrylic paint as normal, and seal it. Now one good point here is that if some of your acrylic paint did seep through to the Alclad clear coat below, just wipe it with a wet cotton cloth mixed with water and a dab of 50% isopropyl alcohol and you should be fine. There is much more that I'm leaving out here but, if our moderator won't mind, I'm going to post an older Alclad2 thread here that I posted on the Atlas and MRR forums that gives step by step details on the process I've been using that should be helpful to you and other passenger rail modelers. Antonio, I have a couple questions for you that I didn't see on here. First a little background on what I am trying to do. I have a proto-freelance railroad name Kansas Pacific in the time frame of 1996-1997. I am building an Executive/Officers special for my railroad and I would like to us the Alclad2 but I am also doing another color on the cars too. I am using the Walthers fluted side cars for this project. The cars are going to represent a very well maintained set. The top half and roof are going to be green, the paint I use for this is Tru-Color BCRAIL Green. Then of course decals of a stripe and lettering. My question is can I use the Tru-color and Alclad together without any issues? Which do I do first, Alclad the Tru-Color or the other way around? Which Alclad do you suggust I use for this? Also i want the cars to be shiny,what clear do you recommend? From what I have read you should use a Alclad black base before the SS color to help with the shine. Anyway I am sure I am missing something here so any help would be great. I am really impressed with the way your cars have turned out. Thank you for any help and suggestions. I can post painted drawings for you to get a better idea if needed. Anthony
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