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Post by antlorch on Sept 15, 2012 7:24:28 GMT -8
Antonio, Thanks for the info. Yes the cars you described are the ones I am using. Except for the last car and its a Kato.All will be stripped with the 91%. The diaphrams will be black themselves but the ends of the cars will be stainless. So to get it staright I should mask the area off that is going to get paint so the SS does not get on that area. Or paint the entire car SS the mask off the area not getting painted? Here are what the cars are going to look like. The Tru-Color is an Acetone based paint. That is why I was wondering what order..I use Future also but I am always looking for something new to learn. I am excited to get started on these cars but right now I am building all the stuff I need first. Thank you for the help and I will keep you up to date when I get started with these.
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Post by antoniofp45 on Sept 15, 2012 13:11:03 GMT -8
Antlorch, That is a beautiful paint scheme! The orange-yellow accents are an excellent touch. This is going to be one sharp looking OCS. You didn't mention that the skirts will be a darker color. Will these be solid gray and black painted stripes or decals? Either way, another good looking touch! You're going to be performing quite a bit of masking. Tamiya or 3M fine line tapes would be in order for this job. Take a look at this video clip of a BNSF OCS train: I'm assuming that the reflectivity exhibited by the cars on the BNSF train is what you're looking for. If so, then Alclad #107 is the route to take, imho. The clear coats will tone down the high sheen to the level that you'd like. In your case, one thin coat of clear to seal the metalizer. Apply your decals on to the name boards that will be on the stainless section, then seal with one more coat of clear on the entire lower body. 1. Yes, you can metalize the entire car and seal it with clear BUT, imho, that would be an unnecessary waste of Alclad2. If this were my project, I would still apply the metalizer on the lower sections first then come back with the green and trim colors. 2. Unlike Future, which can gum up your airbrush if you leave it in too long, the Alclad2 clears give you more working time. 3. Are you applying custom made decals by Microscale or some other brand? Avoid using Walthers Solvaset. To avoid silvering, Microscale's Microset and Microsol work very well on top of bare Alclad2 and over Alclad2 clears. Use Microsol on the edges of the decals only. 4. The underbody details ( truck sideframes, a/c, battery box, holding tank, etc.) on the Bagg-Dorm and Observation cars: Keep it simple. Using the BNSF units as a reference, the underbody areas are usually coated with a thin layer of grime and dirt, so a light grayish-silver with weathering would look realistic.
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Post by antlorch on Sept 16, 2012 16:59:13 GMT -8
Thanks I think it will be sharp once it's done, as long as I can make it look like how I have it in my mind. The yellow stripe is actually a decal from Microscale. The other decals like the herold and lettering will be custom decals from Highball Graphics.
The dark color is actually just (I guess) flutting in the drawing so it will be the same color SS. The actual coloring will be the BCRAIL Green,Alclad2, and silver/gray under frame. The BNSF cars are the exact shiny I am looking for.
Thanks so much for all the info. This is really helping ease the pain of jumping into all this.
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Post by calzephyr on Sept 24, 2012 10:11:00 GMT -8
Antonio, Thanks for the info. Yes the cars you described are the ones I am using. Except for the last car and its a Kato.All will be stripped with the 91%. The diaphrams will be black themselves but the ends of the cars will be stainless. So to get it staright I should mask the area off that is going to get paint so the SS does not get on that area. Or paint the entire car SS the mask off the area not getting painted? Here are what the cars are going to look like. The Tru-Color is an Acetone based paint. That is why I was wondering what order..I use Future also but I am always looking for something new to learn. I am excited to get started on these cars but right now I am building all the stuff I need first. Thank you for the help and I will keep you up to date when I get started with these. Antlorch Your paint scheme is really going to look nice. I like that color with the stainless. Be sure to post some pictures when they are finished. Larry
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Post by antoniofp45 on Nov 11, 2012 17:09:16 GMT -8
Scenario: Waiting for the arrival of the South Wind so she can be coupled on for the long run to Florida. Freshly painted Jordan transit bus continues racking up miles as she drops off commuters connecting to trains due to arrive in minutes.
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Post by calzephyr on Nov 23, 2012 15:17:37 GMT -8
Antlorch, That is a beautiful paint scheme! The orange-yellow accents are an excellent touch. This is going to be one sharp looking OCS. You didn't mention that the skirts will be a darker color. Will these be solid gray and black painted stripes or decals? Either way, another good looking touch! You're going to be performing quite a bit of masking. Tamiya or 3M fine line tapes would be in order for this job. Take a look at this video clip of a BNSF OCS train: I'm assuming that the reflectivity exhibited by the cars on the BNSF train is what you're looking for. If so, then Alclad #107 is the route to take, imho. The clear coats will tone down the high sheen to the level that you'd like. In your case, one thin coat of clear to seal the metalizer. Apply your decals on to the name boards that will be on the stainless section, then seal with one more coat of clear on the entire lower body. 1. Yes, you can metalize the entire car and seal it with clear BUT, imho, that would be an unnecessary waste of Alclad2. If this were my project, I would still apply the metalizer on the lower sections first then come back with the green and trim colors. 2. Unlike Future, which can gum up your airbrush if you leave it in too long, the Alclad2 clears give you more working time. 3. Are you applying custom made decals by Microscale or some other brand? Avoid using Walthers Solvaset. To avoid silvering, Microscale's Microset and Microsol work very well on top of bare Alclad2 and over Alclad2 clears. Use Microsol on the edges of the decals only. 4. The underbody details ( truck sideframes, a/c, battery box, holding tank, etc.) on the Bagg-Dorm and Observation cars: Keep it simple. Using the BNSF units as a reference, the underbody areas are usually coated with a thin layer of grime and dirt, so a light grayish-silver with weathering would look realistic. Antonio A great big thanks again for the tips on Alclad and the use of it. My Alclad arrived last week, but it was raining so I waited until today to try it out. The picture below is the Alclad tint on the right hand car and the left is a Walthers as received. There is a great difference and it only took five minutes!!! Really!!! The hardest part with the Hi Level cars is removing the top and reinstalling them Larry
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Post by calzephyr on Nov 24, 2012 13:04:13 GMT -8
The Walthers coach with the Alclad tint. Lounge outside in low light
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Post by antoniofp45 on Nov 24, 2012 17:40:29 GMT -8
Hey that looks EXCELLENT!
If you don't mind, just to compare notes: How many coats did you apply to get this level and what p.s.i did you have your airbrush set for?
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Post by calzephyr on Nov 25, 2012 15:31:42 GMT -8
Hey that looks EXCELLENT!
If you don't mind, just to compare notes: How many coats did you apply to get this level and what p.s.i did you have your airbrush set for?
Antonio Thanks. Your articles and posts really helped. I would never have known about this product if I had not read your posts. It is easy to use and this was about five very light coats of tint. I use about 22psi to 25 depending on the regulator setting. Lower settings if I get any bounce from the item I am painting. I normally adjust the spray amount to a fine mist, not heavy. The lounge car received just a tad more coats on the upper windows since they are open to the sky. I noticed the prototype pictures seem to be darker than the side windows. Larry
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Post by calzephyr on Dec 3, 2012 13:24:21 GMT -8
Hey that looks EXCELLENT!
If you don't mind, just to compare notes: How many coats did you apply to get this level and what p.s.i did you have your airbrush set for?
Antonio I used the Alcald again today on the windows of a Walthers Union Pacific dome car. We had three rain storms in a row over the weekend and I did see the blush on the windows as the paint was being applied. The sun was out but the humidity was very high also. I was about to start over when I noticed the edges starting to clear up. The windows all looked good now after a few minutes as the Alclad dried. I have decided to use the lower windows since they are slightly tinted. They could use an additional tint to look better, but the car would have be disassembled to tint those correctly. The top can be removed, painted and reinstalled in about 10 minutes. Larry
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Post by Steven E Cerka on Jan 17, 2013 13:45:00 GMT -8
I've used alclad and have pretty good results. I'm alwasy looking for ways to improve the finish. Have you ever tried using a flat finish paint under Alclad.
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Post by antoniofp45 on Jan 17, 2013 14:45:34 GMT -8
Hello Steven,
I've tested Alclad2 #107 and #105 over flat finishes. The results are that it looks no better than a bright silver. So far, I've received the best results using Alclad's clears. Cool factor is that the "flavors" available range from high gloss to flat. Imho, Alclad's flat lays down much more smoothly than Dull Cote and can provide a neglected "Penn Central" finish if desired.
Later on this year I'll likely model a "very neglected" streamlined unit with Alclad2 and weather it with Polly Scale paint. ;)
I've used alclad and have pretty good results. I'm alwasy looking for ways to improve the finish. Have you ever tried using a flat finish paint under Alclad.
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