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Post by HurricaneFec on Jul 26, 2013 17:25:10 GMT -8
I have 3 FEC units that that are wired wrong from the manufacture and I would like to bypass the circuit board so I can get the head lights and ditch lights to work separately. I remove the shell and I discovered the led comes on for the top head light but the head light is located on the front hood of the locomotive. My sound decoder has 6 outputs, any suggestions?
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Post by HurricaneFec on Aug 7, 2013 11:56:11 GMT -8
I'll start posting pics of my progress tonight
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Post by Tunnelmotor on Aug 14, 2013 10:34:42 GMT -8
You'l be better off completely junking the MTH board and starting over. That's what I done after fitting a Tsunami into an MTH SD70ace.
Be aware also that the small PCB's at front and rear used to power the surface mount ditch LED's and headlights are also wired 'reverse' in these models.
By reverse I mean that they are switched by the common's not the negatives. You'l notice the your new decoder has one common to power all the loco's functions and a bunch of negative function leads that are switched. MTH light boards are no good in their current configuration.
Ive some pictures of the modification I made to these PCB's if it helps.
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Post by HurricaneFec on Aug 14, 2013 11:09:28 GMT -8
You'l be better off completely junking the MTH board and starting over. That's what I done after fitting a Tsunami into an MTH SD70ace. Be aware that the small PCB's at front and rear used to power the surface mount ditch LED's and headlights are also wired 'reverse' in these models. Ive some pictures of the modification I made to these PCB's if it helps. Thanks any pics will help. I completely Toss the circuitboard it serves no purpose and I know I said I was going to post pics but My garage feels like a slow cooker here in the state of Florida |
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Post by Tunnelmotor on Aug 14, 2013 11:32:25 GMT -8
  The first picture is the front light board before any modification. The second picture is after modification. Note the cut tracks that ive outlined in white and the new polarity markings in blue and red. There's also a new jumper on there. |
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Post by Tunnelmotor on Aug 14, 2013 11:35:45 GMT -8
 In the second picture you'll notice that the brown is now common and the orange and violet are switched functions from the decoder, in this case the number board and head lights. The above is a general over view of the mahem these models create. Its not an easy job, you'll need to take your time with it. I had to mill some of the frame to get the Tsunami 710G to fit. I also completely renewed the ditch lights on 3 of mine using new LED's and housing's. |
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Post by Tunnelmotor on Aug 14, 2013 11:50:17 GMT -8
The next part is entirely optional, I take no credit for it as it was done by some guy before me, I just copied what he done. This is alot of work make no mistake! First shows how I wired up the new ditch lights.  Next is the re-worked stanchions and details west DL housings. The new stanchions came from some old Kato unit I had.  And testing the brightness........... Frame is sat on top of UP 1983 already converted.  I think I used a 1k ohm resistor across both, not the recommended method but it all works OK a year on! |
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Post by HurricaneFec on Aug 14, 2013 14:24:59 GMT -8
My Rear Ditch Lights , since FEC ditch lights does not alternate while flashing this should be easy  |
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Post by HurricaneFec on Aug 14, 2013 19:09:20 GMT -8
Rear Ditch lights and rear head light replace with warm color led  |
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Post by HurricaneFec on Aug 17, 2013 11:39:46 GMT -8
Plan B, I've decided to use the Loksound direct select decoder that I pulled from my SD80mac for simpler wiring. I going to mailed it back to ulrichmodels.com/ to upload the SD70M-2 sound profile. Comparing the two pics it's a lot easier to use the select board   I remove the Led for the front Head light since the front head light is located on the nose and not by the number board  |
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Post by HurricaneFec on Aug 17, 2013 11:56:09 GMT -8
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Post by HurricaneFec on Sept 1, 2013 4:23:22 GMT -8
Speakers, motor leads and L/R wheels contact are done, I'm gonna finished the rest once my NCE starter comes in this week. Happy Labor Day  |
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Post by HurricaneFec on Oct 13, 2013 17:20:34 GMT -8
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Post by nscaler711 on Oct 19, 2013 0:31:21 GMT -8
What LED's did you get and what voltage did you buy? I was thing of getting the 6-12v DC version even though I run DCC. But I also know most decoders are equipped for led or bulb use.
also if you have any ps3 boards you dont want let me know i could always use them
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Post by HurricaneFec on Oct 19, 2013 20:30:47 GMT -8
What LED's did you get and what voltage did you buy? I was thing of getting the 6-12v DC version even though I run DCC. But I also know most decoders are equipped for led or bulb use. also if you have any ps3 boards you dont want let me know i could always use them Nano chips in the ditch lights and regular chips everywhere else |
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Post by nscaler711 on Oct 19, 2013 21:19:18 GMT -8
What LED's did you get and what voltage did you buy? I was thing of getting the 6-12v DC version even though I run DCC. But I also know most decoders are equipped for led or bulb use. also if you have any ps3 boards you dont want let me know i could always use them Nano chips in the ditch lights and regular chips everywhere else Right I know the website but more specifically did you buy the DC versions (3 volts or 6-12 volts) or did you buy the ones with the rectifiers built in for AC/DC/DCC? |
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Post by HurricaneFec on Oct 20, 2013 12:24:48 GMT -8
Right I know the website but more specifically did you buy the DC versions (3 volts or 6-12 volts) or did you buy the ones with the rectifiers built in for AC/DC/DCC? 6-12 DC |
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Post by nscaler711 on Oct 20, 2013 12:31:12 GMT -8
Thank you.
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