I used slices of styrene tubing. Once glued to the tank I drilled through the middle and inserted lengths of styrene rod.
So my guess was pretty close, then. After seeing your update I decided I would try to model these on Crocodile GE after all. I ended up drilling holes in the tank for the tubing instead of gluing slices to the side of the tank.
Here are the cuts. I basically followed the mold parting line on the Highliner nose. The side windows on the E7 are unique, so I had to keep the BLI windows intact.
I ended up having to remove the rain gutter over the side cab windows during fitting, so after the splice was complete, I replaced the gutter with .012 brass wire.
All in all, the BLI E7 nose is pretty good. The Highliner windshields are shaped a bit better, and the glass fits better. The Highliner numberboards and anticlimber are also a little nicer. The BLI door headlight is flat out wrong, but that can be fixed by just swapping the door for a Highliner.
Did you think of making a mold of the Highliner nose so castings can be made for future projects?
That way, you don’t have to worry about sourcing more shells just for the nose and can tweak the castings to suit your project needs. It’s just a thought, I’m not experienced in molds & casting parts, so I don’t know how much work would be involved.
Post by onequiknova on Mar 3, 2014 17:40:19 GMT -8
As far as resin casting, if I were going to do a bunch of these nose swaps, I might consider it, but for the few times I may do it, it's just not worth the time and materials to set up a nice mold. Also, with resin casting there will be a slight amount of shrinkage in your casting, so things may not line up as well. Besides, you can readily find bare Highliner shells for around $20.
I decided to go ahead and put a Highliner nose on this project as well. Yes the BLI nose is pretty well done, but what sold me is the amount of time it will save me later making better fitting windshield glass and numberboard glass for the BLI nose. That step took me longer than I'd like to admit on the RI E8 I built last year, and they still didn't fit as well as the Highliner's glass will fit. Mounting the Highliner pilot will be a no brainer and stronger as well.
Also, after finding better prototype pictures showing the tank mounts, I decided to redo them. I also redid the washout plugs.
Post by onequiknova on Mar 21, 2014 11:38:15 GMT -8
After a long delay at the etcher, then getting lost in the mail for over a week, I finally received my etches.
I had some trouble getting good pics of the stainless, but they get the point across.
First is the radiators.
E8 style, round corner doors.
General details. The little squares are unions for the roof top piping. (2 per union) The dog bone shaped parts are the pipe brackets for the roof. They will be folded in half like Plano's lift rings to form a 3D part. Other parts are kick plates, extra battens added by the RI, frames for the open sand filler hatches, door handles and marker light gaskets.
A couple of the assembled radiators. When looking at prototype photo's, I've found the fine fins of the radiator kind of disappear, but the tubes within the radiator are visible, so that's how I designed the etch. The RI added an extra core to their radiators, so these are longer than your typical E7 radiator, although cutting one of the cores off the etch would make it a standard sized radiator, which some RI power kept.
The doors assembled. I wish I would have made the door handle holes smaller. The waviness is from my finger prints. The etches are nice and smooth.