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Post by bnsf971 on Apr 16, 2014 8:27:13 GMT -8
Too bad I can't reliably do a search that excludes the word "rare" in the title or description. That would really cut down on the stuff to be sifted through.
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Post by drolsen on Apr 16, 2014 9:46:18 GMT -8
Kato should also do a stand alone well car along with "steerable truck" AC4400CW'S and a "Dark Future" CSX AC4400CW. Kato has not produced the correct AC4400CW with three dynamic brake vents for CSX in HO yet, which is why they haven't offered that roadname yet. They did it in N scale, so I assumed it was only a matter if time, but I think they held off on doing that version when their interest in the US HO market waned a few years ago. I'm hoping they'll come back and do it eventually. However, I'd also be happy with an "ultimate" AC4400CW from Atlas (possibly) or Athearn Genesis (not likely). I need about a dozen CW44ACs to model the CSX fleet. Most of the prototype units are still wearing Bright Future, I think because they were some of the last (newest) delivered in that scheme, so I'd expect a manufacturer to offer that scheme first. Dave
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Post by umtrrauthor on Apr 16, 2014 12:47:56 GMT -8
There is an "eBay Humor" thread over "on another network" that is well over 200 pages at present.
In terms of sales, I think the approach is to price fairly but reasonably. Sometimes it works out, sometimes it doesn't, and once in a while one winds up attracting two "highly motivated buyers." I was amused when I sold something to an obvious "flipper." I expect to see the item in his eBay store shortly at 2 to 3 times original MSRP. For a long time.
Totally agree that there is a lot of recycled junk with constant relisting. Some of these sellers are relisting every day - one day auction, doesn't sell, rinse and repeat.
I have an "ignore list"... a list of sellers that I don't want ever to see. (Tricky but doable using advanced search.) On the N Scale side, this plus not bothering with Buy It Now-only items (which are much more overpriced than they're not) results in my taking a list of over 30,000 total items down to less than 10,000. I know I'm taking a chance that I'll miss something... but I'll take that risk which seems extremely low to me. It's basically the same policy I use at live train shows... there are some tables I pass right by based on past experience.
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Post by Spikre on Apr 16, 2014 13:17:03 GMT -8
Geodessey, think that Santa Fe or Union Pacific modelers would challenge that statement, "SP is the most modeled road". but even back when PRR was the most Popular Road it didnt keep Pennline in business. Spikre
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Post by marknycfan on Apr 16, 2014 15:22:23 GMT -8
By second rate I mean unboxed items, even damaged items you might rate as fair to good, I am not referring to new-old-stock, (NOS) that while 2 years old has never been owned or at best one owner and only test run. Or as a seller no one is buying new items at great prices but they're snatching up all the 2nd & 3rd rate used items you can post... I was told by several dealers that is where the money's at.A lot of modelers missed out on (say)Hooten Hollow & Western GP9 #312 because of troubled times now they have the wherewithal and they want it. Nothing second or third rate about that..Its what the modeler is looking for that counts. Since last August I bought several P2K and Athearn SCL, Family Lines and Seaboard System locomotives--nothing second rate about that.I decided to model the prototype I been wanting to do for decades and at 65 it was do it now or forget the idea..I don't regret my choice.
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Post by bnsf971 on Apr 16, 2014 15:31:28 GMT -8
Too bad I can't reliably do a search that excludes the word "rare" in the title or description. That would really cut down on the stuff to be sifted through. You can put a "-" in front of a search term to exclude it. HOWEVER... I find eBay searches unreliable. For example, sometimes I'll get an email with a few items from a search, but when I click on "See all results", a page comes up with 0 items, not even the ones that were in the email. Yet they are available. You might want to exclude "L@@k" and "vintage" too! Thanks. I'll try that next time I go hunting.
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Post by WP 257 on Apr 16, 2014 16:14:08 GMT -8
My original reference to "value" was related to the street selling price at the lowest discount dealers--that is a somewhat more accurate reflection of an item's true value than individual web auctions, or the original MSRP, at least imo.
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Post by Brakie on Apr 16, 2014 16:24:14 GMT -8
By second rate I mean unboxed items, even damaged items you might rate as fair to good, I am not referring to new-old-stock, (NOS) that while 2 years old has never been owned or at best one owner and only test run. ------------------------------------------------------------ Mark, I have guide lines I use.
Examples:
One is no box no sale.
If its damage sorry, no sale..There's too many excellent NOS and quality use cars and locomotives on e-bay to buy questionable models-not even for parts.
Another automatic no sale is a very dark photo. My thoughts: What are they hiding in that dark photo?
Like I mention I use a list of e-Bay stores that I have dealt with. ------------------------------ A story.
I bought a Atlas GP7 from a private seller that had fast shipping and 99.9%..Anyway,after I receive the Geep I took it out of its box and a roach ran out from underneath the engine..I killed the roach,took the engine apart for cleaning and cleaned the inside of the box with 91% alcohol on a damp rag.
I never had that to happen before and I been buying use locomotives and cars for 40 plus years.
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Post by Brakie on Apr 17, 2014 3:35:45 GMT -8
Most people who know what they heck they are bidding for and know what the approximate value of an item in the hobby is know whether an item is "RARE" or not. I don't sell a lot, but I never include such lame statements in my descriptions. Brad Brad exactly.. A BB car kit isn't rare by a long shot.. However.. Walthers blue Aberdeen & Rockfish 50' waffle side boxcar is extremely rare and brings around $20-25.00 in mint condition.
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Post by fr8kar on Apr 17, 2014 4:07:38 GMT -8
I buy stuff on ebay all the time, but it's rare I buy complete models. I usually stick to decals, decoders and detail parts and wait until I have about ten items from the same seller before I pull the trigger and buy it now. That way I get bundled shipping and don't pay through the nose. Occasionally something I'm interested in shows up. For example, I've wanted a Genesis Cotton Belt caboose for some time now, but I wasn't interested in paying the full retail price on them. On a lark I found one on ebay for 40 bucks so I clicked "buy it now."
I've also sold on ebay and I've generally gotten what I want out of the sales. I used to go all out and weather and custom build models to sell and got some pretty decent return on them, but one or two duds caused me to stop all that. Now I might throw some weathering on a basic model, or dispose of some Kadee couplers on an old model I want to get rid of, but that's as much effort as I'll put into adding value to something anymore. I still have a pile of old Walthers and Athearn cars I want to dispose of and I'm sure I will go back to ebay to do it. Will I make a killing? No, but I'll get a little bit of spending money out of it.
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Post by catt on Apr 17, 2014 6:21:40 GMT -8
There are two things at the top of mylist that will stop me from bidding no matter how much I want the item.One like Larry says is a real dark picture,and the second is a out of focus picture.I just have to wonder what are they hiding.
I also have a list of ebay stores and sellers I will deal with.There have been a couple times I have bought from someone and the item was not the one I wanted after I recieved it and have never had a any trouble getting the problem taken care of.
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Post by orangeC on Apr 17, 2014 18:54:16 GMT -8
I have done well on ebay, found some rare stuff that I had missed out on when released. I did pay too much for a couple items, ended up in a couple bidding wars. However, I am amazed at some auctions and the starting bids. Three Athearn RTR Navajo trailers and a Mack truck for damn near a hundred bucks.
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Post by WP 257 on Apr 17, 2014 20:54:23 GMT -8
There is one way to avoid a bidding war, and I've used it with very good success on a few occasions! If you are really serious that you want the item, and the seller has only a modest starting price (as is still typical of the "average Joe" sellers), put in an early bid (or second bid after your initial bid) that you know is a bit high but that you are actually willing to pay in order to own the item--the highest price you will be willing to pay.
Then, while the actual showing bid price is still low, as other bidders bid--and they see that you remain the high bidder time and time again--they eventually get scared off or give up, I guess assuming that you are a "heavy hitter" for whom price is not a concern. At this point, the intimidation may work for you.
I've won the items at less than my highest price this way on several occasions.
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Post by nightmare0331 on Apr 18, 2014 5:27:50 GMT -8
In the last 5-10 seconds of an auction, I'll bid the maximum I'm willing to pay for an item.
It keeps the overall price lower usually as it avoids a bidding war, and if someone else has a higher bid than I'm willing to pay, all the more power to them.
Enjoy!
Kelley.
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Post by bnsf971 on Apr 18, 2014 5:33:08 GMT -8
It's been several (many) years since I bought an item on Ebay using the auction process. Are there still last-second sniping programs still in use, or has Ebay squashed them?
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Post by alcoc430 on Apr 18, 2014 6:59:56 GMT -8
It's been several (many) years since I bought an item on Ebay using the auction process. Are there still last-second sniping programs still in use, or has Ebay squashed them? Yes, I use ezsniper
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Post by fr8kar on Apr 18, 2014 8:32:25 GMT -8
I buy stuff on ebay all the time, but it's rare I buy complete models. I usually stick to decals, decoders and detail parts and wait until I have about ten items from the same seller before I pull the trigger and buy it now. That way I get bundled shipping and don't pay through the nose. Occasionally something I'm interested in shows up. For example, I've wanted a Genesis Cotton Belt caboose for some time now, but I wasn't interested in paying the full retail price on them. On a lark I found one on ebay for 40 bucks so I clicked "buy it now." I've also sold on ebay and I've generally gotten what I want out of the sales. I used to go all out and weather and custom build models to sell and got some pretty decent return on them, but one or two duds caused me to stop all that. Now I might throw some weathering on a basic model, or dispose of some Kadee couplers on an old model I want to get rid of, but that's as much effort as I'll put into adding value to something anymore. I still have a pile of old Walthers and Athearn cars I want to dispose of and I'm sure I will go back to ebay to do it. Will I make a killing? No, but I'll get a little bit of spending money out of it. What were the two duds? One was a Centralia ATSF waycar and the other a Walthers tank car. I got the money back I spent on the waycar, but just barely and the tank car was a loss. It was the tank car that made me stop. If I sell anything weathered and custom built now, it's because I had it for myself and don't want it anymore, not because I'm trying to turn a profit.
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Post by bigblow69 on Apr 18, 2014 9:44:16 GMT -8
With the EBAY app on my smartphone anytime I get outbid it notifies me. Usually when someone outbids me I place dozens of bids against them. Nothing left for me out there. The last item I was really looking for has been acquired. Gives me a chance when July comes around for all the stuff thats due.
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Post by alcoc430 on Apr 18, 2014 9:55:11 GMT -8
There is one way to avoid a bidding war, and I've used it with very good success on a few occasions! If you are really serious that you want the item, and the seller has only a modest starting price (as is still typical of the "average Joe" sellers), put in an early bid (or second bid after your initial bid) that you know is a bit high but that you are actually willing to pay in order to own the item--the highest price you will be willing to pay. Then, while the actual showing bid price is still low, as other bidders bid--and they see that you remain the high bidder time and time again--they eventually get scared off or give up, I guess assuming that you are a "heavy hitter" for whom price is not a concern. At this point, the intimidation may work for you. I've won the items at less than my highest price this way on several occasions. Why would do that? It gives other people a chance to outbid you. The goal in an auction is to avoid having other people bid on the item. Don't give them a chance to outbid you. Since ONLY the last, highest bid counts, the best strategy is to wait 'till the last seconds to bid. aka "sniping". Everything else is a waste of time. As the final price is the next-to-the highest bid plus the bid increment amount, simply bid the highest amount that you are willing to pay, ONE time. You will often get the item for much less, and you'll never pay more than your pre-determined limit. Obviously never bid higher than you are willing to pay- duh. This is simple. On the vast majority of items ezsniper or last minute bidding is the far better way to go but I have found that sometimes one has to use the Fast14's method on certain items. Such as the items by the ebay seller "the favorite spot" because his low starting and end prices auctions attract a lot of bids and every one sees the final selling prices of his previous auctions, so you basically put in a price at about or slightly higher then what the others have sold for in the past and once that price comes up usually the other buyers back off and wait for the next one. So if you wait with last minute bidding you would usually end up paying higher amount than the previous average prices in order to win. I also noticed this type of bidding on other things IIRC this bidding method could be used for sherline mill and lathes. Obviously these are special cases
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Post by rails4dmv on Apr 18, 2014 10:39:36 GMT -8
Worked for me with "Favorite Spot" on eBay...Just snagged a Bachmann PC GG1 for way less than what I wanted to pay for it. Now just hoping USPS don't treat it like the gorilla in the old "Samsonite" commercials.
One thing I have noticed on eBay as of late is the amount of older Walthers passenger cars from the 90's bidded on & selling for high prices (i.e. Amtrak Viewliners, Horizon, or any Budd passenger cars) but the newer passenger cars, some of which are the newer plated releases, are bidded on & selling for way less than the older, some what poorly designed models. Go figure!
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Post by Brakie on Apr 18, 2014 11:19:20 GMT -8
Worked for me with "Favorite Spot" on eBay...Just snagged a Bachmann PC GG1 for way less than what I wanted to pay for it. Now just hoping USPS don't treat it like the gorilla in the old "Samsonite" commercials. One thing I have noticed on eBay as of late is the amount of older Walthers passenger cars from the 90's bidded on & selling for high prices (i.e. Amtrak Viewliners, Horizon, or any Budd passenger cars) but the newer passenger cars, some of which are the newer plated releases, are bidded on & selling for way less than the older, some what poorly designed models. Go figure! Indeed..I have sit in awe while scratching my head wondering why a BB 50' "Railbox" boxcar sold for slightly over $17.00 when a perfectly good Atlas/Trainman 50' Railbox boxcar was BIN at $12.99..Never will understand that.
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Post by bigblow69 on Apr 18, 2014 14:32:41 GMT -8
Been a couple time I purposely bid things up. I love those people who think Athearn Cronos containers are worth $125. That has to be a collector completing his collection.
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Post by lvrr325 on Apr 18, 2014 18:02:00 GMT -8
I've sold on eBay since 1998.
Everything on eBay follows trends, people who collect either fill their collections or get interested in other things and the next thing becomes hot. It used to be even unboxed Lionel HO did well if it was all there. Now, loose stuff is tough to move but the boxed, mint pieces still bring big money.
I saw a Tyco bobber caboose in a rare roadname have two guys try to snipe it and the winner paid $202.50 for his. Mine sold for $50. Just a fluke.
The other thing that happens is it's part of the product life cycle on newer things. It used to be stuff would come out, it would have a 3-4 week lifespan where it would sell well, then everyone who wanted one then and there had theirs and you could count on sitting on the remainder for a long time. But eventually when they got hard to find and nobody had any, the prices would creep back up on eBay until if you knew what you were looking at you could often buy what to one dealer was old stock he was grateful to dump on you for his cost or less, and turn around and flip it on eBay for two, three times retail. I just sold an Atlas engine DCC ready for about what the current DCC sound ones are bringing because they got hard to find - and when I bought it, it was all I could find, I wish I'd bought two of them now. I never even cracked the tape on the box.
I even saw some first run P2K GP18s sell for crazy money, but that was like the Tyco caboose where some guys must have tried to out-snipe one another because the next ones sold for about the average price.
You also see a lot of overpriced junk there because there are a fair amount of people who have no idea what they have, but with all of eBay's free listing specials, they can throw on there say a $90 list Life-Like train set you can still buy for 40% off at Trainworld, for $400 used and missing pieces and "rare" and it costs them nothing.
Lately I post a lot of stuff as Buy it Now or Best Offer and let people offer me what they want to pay; it's easier than running auctions and I get to check out the bidder before I approve an offer. I have a couple of Bowser Executive Line engines going that way. I did sell one C430 that way but only when mine became the only one that road number available at the time. The visibility is lower, but it can run 30 days and renew automatically so I don't have to pay too close attention to it.
And it is strange what sells. When I did that miserable show in Winston-Salem last fall the guy next to me ended up selling me his junk box - odds and ends, tail end of things he'd almost sold out of, old beat up matchbox cars from a collection, etc. - for $20. It actually was two boxes, he dumped the odds and ends box into the die cast cars.
Anyhow, included in there was about 20 Bachmann brass 90' crossings, on the card, packaging from like the 1970s. I look on eBay and see some like it had sold, so I put them on free shipping for $5. I've sold about half of them that way, even with raising the price to $6. They go first class mail so the shipping is cheap. One guy bought five at a shot - after shipping that alone was $20 profit for me.
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gec
New Member
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Post by gec on Apr 19, 2014 8:44:15 GMT -8
Ebay is strange. I find it interesting that sometimes the same item will be for sale, one much cheaper than the other, and yet people still try to bid on the more expensive one!
I also wonder if a few nuts with money to burn drive up prices unreasonably on Ebay. I saw a pair of broken and incomplete Walthers NJ Transit coaches sell for $310, even though there was a set of three in good shape going for much less.
You almost can't blame some of the people who start off their prices at $60-$90 a car, but is that what most people would want for a Walthers commuter car?
As long as I don't pay mega-bucks for them, I know I'll have something to fall back on if I ever need cash!
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Post by WP 257 on Apr 19, 2014 18:23:36 GMT -8
There is one way to avoid a bidding war, and I've used it with very good success on a few occasions! If you are really serious that you want the item, and the seller has only a modest starting price (as is still typical of the "average Joe" sellers), put in an early bid (or second bid after your initial bid) that you know is a bit high but that you are actually willing to pay in order to own the item--the highest price you will be willing to pay. Then, while the actual showing bid price is still low, as other bidders bid--and they see that you remain the high bidder time and time again--they eventually get scared off or give up, I guess assuming that you are a "heavy hitter" for whom price is not a concern. At this point, the intimidation may work for you. I've won the items at less than my highest price this way on several occasions. Why would do that? It gives other people a chance to outbid you. The goal in an auction is to avoid having other people bid on the item. Don't give them a chance to outbid you. Since ONLY the last, highest bid counts, the best strategy is to wait 'till the last seconds to bid. aka "sniping". Everything else is a waste of time. As the final price is the next-to-the highest bid plus the bid increment amount, simply bid the highest amount that you are willing to pay, ONE time. You will often get the item for much less, and you'll never pay more than your pre-determined limit. Obviously never bid higher than you are willing to pay- duh. This is simple. Look you can disagree all you want--that's your right. The technique above works for one very large East Coast brass collector (recently retired). He bids early, the maximum he's willing to pay. He doesn't care if they go above his bid--the idea is not to pay too much. By bidding early and high enough, it actually can intimidate the other bidders, as I stated above--such that they stop bidding--and you still get the item for cheap--ie less than your high bid. Since this brass collector, who actually also comes on these forums, makes or made his living by buying and selling trains--and it worked for him--I think the technique works. You certainly are most welcome to adopt a different bidding technique.
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Post by WP 257 on Apr 19, 2014 18:34:40 GMT -8
Worked for me with "Favorite Spot" on eBay...Just snagged a Bachmann PC GG1 for way less than what I wanted to pay for it. Now just hoping USPS don't treat it like the gorilla in the old "Samsonite" commercials. One thing I have noticed on eBay as of late is the amount of older Walthers passenger cars from the 90's bidded on & selling for high prices (i.e. Amtrak Viewliners, Horizon, or any Budd passenger cars) but the newer passenger cars, some of which are the newer plated releases, are bidded on & selling for way less than the older, some what poorly designed models. Go figure! Yes indeed. I just this week sold 5 newer (ie 2013 or 2014 production) really nice Walthers passenger cars--and yes--some went for less than 25% of what I had in them (and I bought them at rock bottom price from my former employer). Simply put, the winning bidders on at least 2 of the 5 put in early bids and then nobody else bid--so they went cheap. Lesson learned--last time I list nice passenger stuff cheap with no reserve. I'm not in business anyway, only needed some extra cash...
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Post by WP 257 on Apr 19, 2014 18:41:54 GMT -8
Ebay is strange. I find it interesting that sometimes the same item will be for sale, one much cheaper than the other, and yet people still try to bid on the more expensive one! Well--I scrutinize the photos posted very thoroughly, and then if I have any questions, I check out the seller's feedback ratings, etc. too. I am one of those who knows what he wants and what condition he usually wants it in--and I have no problem buying the more expensive item of two if I think the seller appears to be more trustworthy or the condition of the item appears to be better. Conversely--the sellers who only use catalog photos and then only post one image--I'm less likely to buy from.
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gec
New Member
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Post by gec on Apr 20, 2014 9:24:25 GMT -8
Yes indeed. I just this week sold 5 newer (ie 2013 or 2014 production) really nice Walthers passenger cars--and yes--some went for less than 25% of what I had in them (and I bought them at rock bottom price from my former employer). Simply put, the winning bidders on at least 2 of the 5 put in early bids and then nobody else bid--so they went cheap. Lesson learned--last time I list nice passenger stuff cheap with no reserve. I'm not in business anyway, only needed some extra cash... Never list anything for less than you are willing to sell it for. Never bid on anything for more than you are willing to pay for it under any type of sale. By doing so, you will never be disappointed in selling or buying. Upon commenting on some of the seemingly high prices at a hobby shop in Philadelphia, the owner told me "Someone will pay for it". I suppose if you're patient, someone will buy it eventually.
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gec
New Member
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Post by gec on Apr 20, 2014 9:43:38 GMT -8
Why would do that? It gives other people a chance to outbid you. The goal in an auction is to avoid having other people bid on the item. Don't give them a chance to outbid you. Since ONLY the last, highest bid counts, the best strategy is to wait 'till the last seconds to bid. aka "sniping". Everything else is a waste of time. As the final price is the next-to-the highest bid plus the bid increment amount, simply bid the highest amount that you are willing to pay, ONE time. You will often get the item for much less, and you'll never pay more than your pre-determined limit. Obviously never bid higher than you are willing to pay- duh. This is simple. Look you can disagree all you want--that's your right. The technique above works for one very large East Coast brass collector (recently retired). He bids early, the maximum he's willing to pay. He doesn't care if they go above his bid--the idea is not to pay too much. By bidding early and high enough, it actually can intimidate the other bidders, as I stated above--such that they stop bidding--and you still get the item for cheap--ie less than your high bid. Since this brass collector, who actually also comes on these forums, makes or made his living by buying and selling trains--and it worked for him--I think the technique works. You certainly are most welcome to adopt a different bidding technique. I suspect when it comes to brass, much of it already starting at a high-bid, only serious people will try and bid on it. One early bid might intimidate people when the starting bid on an item is $700, and that is already at the top of their budget. The only other time I see this working is on "low value" items like prototype slides and other things, where some people put a minimal bid in since it seems like no one is bidding on it. I think though in most cases, you're not doing yourself any favors if you bid early. If I come in and snipe, it won't matter because I'll be sniping with my maximum bid, and if its higher than yours, you're out of luck. Another research paper suggested that having multiple bids on an item drives people into a competitive frenzy, and will also draw others into a bid war. You get people who put their emotions into it, who "can't loose", and then others who say, "if so many people are bidding on it, it must be worth the effort".
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Post by Brakie on Apr 20, 2014 12:04:18 GMT -8
Another research paper suggested that having multiple bids on an item drives people into a competitive frenzy, and will also draw others into a bid war. You get people who put their emotions into it, who "can't loose", and then others who say, "if so many people are bidding on it, it must be worth the effort". ------------------------------------------- gec,That's the reason I use BIN..I shop around for the best price and yes,the prices vary from cheap to way over the going price not to mention in some cases over MSRP.
Best to know your prices and if you bid know when to stop and let those who must win regardless of cost battle it out..
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