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Post by stevef45 on Apr 22, 2014 17:44:02 GMT -8
Can anyone provide some tips to installing Detail Associates cut levers on a Athearn SD60? I have 5 of them to do and i'de like to finish this on part i've been putting off tomorrow or thursday and just finally wrap up detailing them so I can get them painted and decalled.
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mpi
Junior Member
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Post by mpi on Apr 23, 2014 4:06:37 GMT -8
There isn't a trick, they are a pain. What I do, is drill four holes on the pilot in the area for mounting. Take 4 eyebolts, fish them on two each side of center of the lift bar. Try to stand the shell on end in a glass or mug with paper towels. Put some CA on a sheet of wax paper or similar, dip a track nail or something with a point into the CA, dab the shell where the holes are, and with tweezers put an eye bolt in one end in and work toward the other side. Simple as that, but your frustration level may grow larger, as you try to get the eyebolts in the holes.
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Post by nebrzephyr on Apr 23, 2014 5:50:30 GMT -8
Here's what I have started to do using the DA mounting tabs. Rather than slipping the mounting tabs on the lift bars and then trying to get them lined up in the hole, try this. Using the styrene mounting tabs, glue into the holes on the pilot. Then take a single edge razor blade and carefully slice the tab hole open. Then slip the lift bar into the tabs. When the lift bar is in all 4 tabs, use styrene cement and glue the tabs closed.
It's easier to do than trying to explain it. YMMV. Bob
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Post by wp8thsub on Apr 23, 2014 7:29:49 GMT -8
Using the styrene mounting tabs, glue into the holes on the pilot. Then take a single edge razor blade and carefully slice the tab hole open. Then slip the lift bar into the tabs. When the lift bar is in all 4 tabs, use styrene cement and glue the tabs closed. That's exactly how I do it. |
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 23, 2014 8:02:10 GMT -8
I've found the DA cut levers don't fit too well at times. The AAR type cut bars are not well formed.   My solution to cut bars is to bend my own  I slip the DA bracket on the cut bar. I then take a fine paint brush and dab some Ambroid Pro Weld in the mounting hole drilled or pre-drilled on the body. I mount one bracket and move on to the second. My cut bars are in two pieces like the prototype. Once I have the brackets in their respective holes, I glue from the back and take that fine paint brush and sometimes run a bead of cement around outside of the bracket. Here is some of photos of my scratch built cut levers installed on the SP GP9 project.   |
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Post by carrman on Apr 23, 2014 11:48:29 GMT -8
That's the one thing Railflyer did well, was cut lever bars.
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Post by stevef45 on Apr 23, 2014 17:55:34 GMT -8
Using the styrene mounting tabs, glue into the holes on the pilot. Then take a single edge razor blade and carefully slice the tab hole open. Then slip the lift bar into the tabs. When the lift bar is in all 4 tabs, use styrene cement and glue the tabs closed. That's exactly how I do it. That does sound alot easier!! Looks like i'll be working on them tomorrow. |
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Post by nebrzephyr on Apr 24, 2014 6:45:50 GMT -8
Here is some of photos of my scratch built cut levers installed on the SP GP9 project. Jim....agree on the DA lift bars..they do need some "tweaking" to get right. Depending on the era of the model the Cal-Scale ones from Bowser are much better. Question: on your RYO bars how to you do the center "loop". It was obvious in the photos. Thanks. Bob |
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Post by stevef45 on Apr 24, 2014 12:02:46 GMT -8
OMG, i dont know how you guys do this. On the sprue, the hanger portion looks bigger then it does when cut off. I was going crosseyed trying to look at these things and open up the hole more. Tweezers couldn't hold them to try and slice open to pop the levers in.
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Post by nebrzephyr on Apr 24, 2014 12:41:14 GMT -8
OMG, i dont know how you guys do this. On the sprue, the hanger portion looks bigger then it does when cut off. I was going crosseyed trying to look at these things and open up the hole more. Tweezers couldn't hold them to try and slice open to pop the levers in. Did you glue them into the pilot face first??? If not, that is the easiest way I found. Bob |
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Post by stevef45 on Apr 24, 2014 16:26:20 GMT -8
OMG, i dont know how you guys do this. On the sprue, the hanger portion looks bigger then it does when cut off. I was going crosseyed trying to look at these things and open up the hole more. Tweezers couldn't hold them to try and slice open to pop the levers in. Did you glue them into the pilot face first??? If not, that is the easiest way I found. Bob No, but i guess i should've if i were to put a slice into them to snap the lever in place. I just could not see how one would slip the holders over and around the levers. I had 2 factory athearn ones that I put on the rear of 2 units. But i'll work on the DA ones again. |
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Post by onequiknova on Apr 24, 2014 16:42:29 GMT -8
I like to trim the flash and drill out the holes with a #80 bit before I even remove them from the sprue.
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Apr 24, 2014 17:21:22 GMT -8
I like to trim the flash and drill out the holes with a #80 bit before I even remove them from the sprue. Excellent advice. In fact the current production brackets all come with flash and closed or nearly closed up eyelets. |
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Post by nebrzephyr on Apr 25, 2014 5:47:23 GMT -8
I like to trim the flash and drill out the holes with a #80 bit before I even remove them from the sprue. John..excellent point. I do the same and should have mentioned that in my original post. Guess it's been awhile since I did any and I should have known better than trusting my old memory.  Bob |
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Post by jbilbrey on Apr 29, 2014 17:18:51 GMT -8
Another tip is if there are not mounting holes or depressions on the pilot face is to use a straight edge and pencil to locate the holes for the eye-bolts or mounting bosses. That will help to make sure one side is not lower than the other side.
James Bilbrey
LaVergne, TN
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Post by nebrzephyr on Apr 30, 2014 5:39:08 GMT -8
Another tip is if there are not mounting holes or depressions on the pilot face is to use a straight edge and pencil to locate the holes for the eye-bolts or mounting bosses. That will help to make sure one side is not lower than the other side. James Bilbrey LaVergne, TN ...or if you have several of the same model you're adding lift bars to, make a drilling template out of thin styrene. That's what I do and that way a perfect fit everytime. Bob |
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