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Post by jaygee on Jul 29, 2014 4:44:49 GMT -8
My near perfect BLI EMD SD7, now re-bopped with Paragon 2 decoder, is looking and running good - except in one area. She still has the LED lights that were part of the Blue line package. This means minimal light intensity at either end of this otherwise mean machine! Now my PCM SD7 has no such issue, but uses a Loc-Sound decoder. Otherwise it appears to be the same exact model as the Blue line chooch. Nothing changed with the conversion to Paragon 2, with regards to light intensity. Any ideas? Thanks! Bright makes right !
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Post by bnsf971 on Jul 29, 2014 5:03:02 GMT -8
My near perfect BLI EMD SD7, now re-bopped with Paragon 2 decoder, is looking and running good - except in one area. She still has the LED lights that were part of the Blue line package. This means minimal light intensity at either end of this otherwise mean machine! Now my PCM SD7 has no such issue, but uses a Loc-Sound decoder. Otherwise it appears to be the same exact model as the Blue line chooch. Nothing changed with the conversion to Paragon 2, with regards to light intensity. Any ideas? Thanks! Bright makes right ! It is the same model, only with their own sound decoder instead of the Loksound decoder. There are some cv settings you can change for lighting intensity. I forget which ones, but I have a Paragon2 manual on my desk at home. I can check tonight and get back to you, if you don't have an answer by then.
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Post by mlehman on Jul 29, 2014 6:43:43 GMT -8
I know nothing about Paragons, but is the Rule 17 lighting engaged somehow?
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Deleted
Deleted Member
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Post by Deleted on Jul 29, 2014 6:57:03 GMT -8
CV231 is for headlight brightness. The value is 4-100. 100 being the brightest. The Paragon II board is set at the factory to 100. So you probably not going to get anymore brightness out of the Paragon II.
I've got BLI E8's with the Paragon II chip and the E's are not very bright.
Rule 17 works on F25.
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Post by jaygee on Jul 29, 2014 8:52:05 GMT -8
Can I re-bulb this thing for better effects? Oddly enough, the Lok sound instructions show no function button numbers in the PCM manual. Best lighting I've got so far is, without doubt, the P2K Walthers unit, just released (B&LE 803). Wonder what they did with the Lok sound decoder to get the lights so much brighter...maybe a different LED.
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Post by mlehman on Jul 29, 2014 11:24:44 GMT -8
Can I re-bulb this thing for better effects? ...SNIP... Wonder what they did with the Lok sound decoder to get the lights so much brighter...maybe a different LED. Are these SMD LEDs or one of the more standard sizes like 2mm, 3mm, or ? Bigger ones are obviously easier to deal with and you will find some difference in brightness between LEDs... That said, the real issue is what the resistance is in-line with the lighting circuit lead? If SMDs, again pretty hard to deal with (for me anyway), but if it'e one of the more standard form factor resistors, then try swapping in resistors with lower values. So long as you don't go below 470 ohms or so, the LEDs will be safe.
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Post by Mark R. on Jul 29, 2014 13:22:39 GMT -8
That would be my guess as well, the Loksound versions are using a lower resistor value. The LED resistors Loksound use on their Select Direct boards is 2.2K ohms - can't see BLI using a higher value than that though. (?)
Mark.
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Post by bnsf971 on Jul 29, 2014 16:53:42 GMT -8
Can I re-bulb this thing for better effects? ...SNIP... Wonder what they did with the Lok sound decoder to get the lights so much brighter...maybe a different LED. Are these SMD LEDs or one of the more standard sizes like 2mm, 3mm, or ? Bigger ones are obviously easier to deal with and you will find some difference in brightness between LEDs... That said, the real issue is what the resistance is in-line with the lighting circuit lead? If SMDs, again pretty hard to deal with (for me anyway), but if it'e one of the more standard form factor resistors, then try swapping in resistors with lower values. So long as you don't go below 470 ohms or so, the LEDs will be safe. The SD9's I had were equipped with mini boards with an LED on a board, with the LED mounted about 1/4" from the board. If a person was reasonably good with a soldering iron, they should be able to work on them.
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Post by jaygee on Jul 29, 2014 18:15:58 GMT -8
These are the same mini boards that you have encountered. There is room to install a variety of options here, provided I get the right voltage, etc.
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