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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2014 10:03:47 GMT -8
Time to get back and finish the UP DD35's. I'll start from the beginning. The starting point is the blue box Athearn DD40 for the DD35A and DD35 or DD35B.  Lets address the trucks. The DD40 has cast side frames with honking big Hyatt roller bearings.  Get out the old Dremel or motor tool of choice and grind the Hyatt boxes off and the pedestal liners.  Next, we CA the 100% better Detail Associates Hyatt roller bearing boxes and pedestal liners to the DD40 side frame.  You are going to need TWO Athearn DD40 bodies. One will supply the long hood. The other will supply the sill and walkways. Cut the body off of the walk way leaving some meat to file and sand down. The mortal remains of the first body can be placed in the recycle bin.  Here is what the loosely placed walkway, second body and Cannon cab and sub bases look like.  On the second body you will cut off the walkways, cab and nose. Leaving only the long hood. You'll need to file and sand down the thickness of the walkway from the second body. Now do you notice any differences between the reworked long hood for the DD35A and that of the stock DD40?    Another of the ongoing work on the DD35's long hood.  Much more to follow. |
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Post by kcjones on Sept 18, 2014 10:36:13 GMT -8
Jim, Your work is fantastic! I was kinda hoping that Athearn would do a new DD35 to go with their U50 or Centennial. Maybe in my next lifetime....
J Loggans
Vancouver WA
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Post by tankcarsrule on Sept 18, 2014 10:55:52 GMT -8
Great build Jim! I'll be following it with interest.
Thanks, Bobby
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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2014 11:30:47 GMT -8
Time to get back and finish the UP DD35's. I'll start from the beginning. The starting point is the blue box Athearn DD40 for the DD35A and DD35 or DD35B... Real scale modeling, excellent. Was this a project from a year or so ago? Narrowing that fat DD really makes a difference, especially on the rear view. Athearn shell's detail (hood doors, etc) is pretty decent. Are you modeling specific units? |
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Post by lajrmdlr on Sept 18, 2014 15:06:20 GMT -8
Remember in '77 driving down I-15 & wanting to see the UP Centennials & all were DD35As & Bs. Took another 9 years to get to see the DD40s.  |
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Post by catt on Sept 18, 2014 18:13:31 GMT -8
How did you narrow the hood.I used my table saw (full sized not a hobby saw) to do two SD45s and two SDP40s.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2014 5:17:55 GMT -8
How did you narrow the hood.I used my table saw (full sized not a hobby saw) to do two SD45s and two SDP40s. 1. Measure a scale width hood diesel with digital display calipers and write the number down. 2. Re-Measure the scale width hood model and make sure numbers match! Remember measure twice cut once. 3. Measure the width of the hood on the DD40 with calipers and write the number down. 4. Re-Measure the width of the hood on the DD40. 5. Subtract scale width hood number from DD40 number and write it down..........I can tell you right now it is an 1/8". 6. Mark center line of unit. I had already removed the fans, inertial filter box, exhaust, etc. so the roof was pretty flat. I used masking tape checking the center line with the calipers. 7. Draw a line using the masking tape as a straight edge. 8. Run two runs of masking tape 1/16" off the center line. 9. Cut close to the two masking tape runs leaving a little material to gently file and sand to straight smooth finish. Using hand tools like I did, requires a slow and easy approach. I also knew that even if my cuts were perfect, I'd still need to address the union of the two halves. Fortunately, about half of the seam is under the radiator panels, turbo and inertial air filter. 10. Gently sand and file to the edge of the masking tape. When you get close you can scribe a line or draw a line if you wish using the masking tape as a straight edge. I stuck with the tape. The key is to continually check the straightness of your sanding/filing using a piece of plate glass.
11. Once you're near the tape and your sides are straight check the thickness with calipers of the hood. Again, take the time to remove any more material to achieve the scale width of the shell. 12. When you've got scale width glue the two halves together. I also added strip styrene on the inside of the hood for strength. |
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Post by calzephyr on Sept 20, 2014 9:08:38 GMT -8
Jim
The instructions on cutting down on the width are very helpful. When I look at the before and after pictures to compare the two, the results are fantastic. The wide hood just seems to be much wider than the amount of material you listed, but that 1/8 is correct and sure makes a big difference.
Thanks again
Larry
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Post by edwardsutorik on Sept 20, 2014 17:02:08 GMT -8
Ghost of Irv! Ghost of Irv!
I'm waiting. With money.
All hail ghost of Irv!
Ed
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Dec 19, 2014 8:00:00 GMT -8
The DD35 or DD35B long hood work. The RPP door detail stinks. I replaced the RPP doors with Cannon  RPP got the spacing of the radiator fans WRONG, so I corrected the spacing. The fans will be Cannon as is the dynamic brake fan. RPP also got the radiator grilles in the wrong spot. I Cannoned the radiator grilles.  The Cannonized side with doors.  RPP's GP35 shell is about a scale foot too short. Thankfully the traction motor blower housing under the doors is scrap so I can Cannonize this side. You can see how crude the door latches and hinges are on the RPP. The doors are also not the correct size especially under the radiator grilles.  |
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Post by rmcroadster on Dec 19, 2014 14:54:27 GMT -8
Hello Jim
Is the Kato GP35 a better starting point than a rough plastic products shell?
I want to build a couple of Illinois units and this rpp shell is less than impressive.
Matthew
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Dec 19, 2014 15:55:22 GMT -8
Hello Jim Is the Kato GP35 a better starting point than a rough plastic products shell? I want to build a couple of Illinois units and this rpp shell is less than impressive. Matthew Kato would be a much better start. When I started the DD35 project about two years ago, finding Kato shells was impossible. Second, if you did locate a shell, it went for the price of a new Lexus. Shortly, though Kato will be releasing the GP35 Phase Ia for the first time in over 20 years. Maybe Kato will have undecorated shells available. There is hope, but even with Kato I'll still be replacing the solid cast fans with Cannon products at the very least. I've owned a couple Athearn RTR GP35's which uses this very shell as its base. For all the enhancements Athearn did to the shell, it still has errors. No wonder people refer to RPP as Rugged Power Products. |
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Post by tankcarsrule on Dec 20, 2014 18:52:47 GMT -8
Not defending RPP shells, but with a lot of work the SD90 can be made into a decent model. The OMI chassis is a big help.  |
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Dec 21, 2014 8:32:37 GMT -8
Not defending RPP shells, but with a lot of work the SD90 can be made into a decent model. The OMI chassis is a big help. I've learned certain RPP shells are better than others. The GP35 seems to be on the low end of spectrum. I had the GP60m and GP60B's and they were better than the 35. I don't doubt the 90 is better than the 35. The CF7 from RPP was also not a bad effort. |
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Post by Donnell Wells on Feb 3, 2016 6:27:31 GMT -8
Hi Jim,
Do you have any updates on this project?
Donnell
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Feb 3, 2016 7:20:23 GMT -8
I sold my home late in 2015. The move from one state to another has been interesting. I work from 1:15 pm to 10:15 pm Sunday through Thursday coupled with a 20 mile commute. When I have my "weekend"(Friday and Saturday).......I'm exhausted! My modeling has crawled to a near stand still. In fact it is mostly at a stand still.
Now I do have a mini update on the DD35 or the B-unit.....
The UP DD35's or incorrectly called DD35B's were built with GP35 Phase Ib bodies. The Ib is the phase with the relative LACK of knuckle buster door latches. I was able to get two Kato GP35 Phase Ib bodies, but have yet to try to get the factory paint off of them. My understanding is that Kato paint could take a direct hit from a tank and not even be scratched. So.....we'll see.
But today is an off day from my job and its somewhat mild here in the beautiful southwest suburbs of Chicago. So.......I think I'll go pitch one of the GP35 bodies in the super stripper, cover it and let soak for a good amount of time and see if maybe the lettering comes off.
But I DO want to put a fork in the project and get it finished. This along with the UP Fast Forty and brass UP caboose.
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Feb 3, 2016 7:27:22 GMT -8
An electronic kick in the tail from here....looking for next update.
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Post by fr8kar on Feb 3, 2016 7:34:39 GMT -8
Your schedule sounds like a railroader's schedule in the yard, at least one with decent seniority (a weekend day off? sweet)!
Have you tried Castrol Super Clean to strip anything? I love the stuff. I stripped some blue box boxcars with it and it didn't affect the plastic at all but the paint is long gone.
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Post by drolsen on Feb 4, 2016 17:03:32 GMT -8
I was able to get two Kato GP35 Phase Ib bodies, but have yet to try to get the factory paint off of them. My understanding is that Kato paint could take a direct hit from a tank and not even be scratched. Jim, check out this video by Brian Banna, in which he demonstrates how he takes the paint off Kato N scale shells with alcohol and a Dremel bristle brush: I just got the brush and am going to try the technique on some BLI hoppers that seem to be impervious to normal alcohol stripping. Dave |
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Post by dtinut on Feb 4, 2016 21:59:21 GMT -8
Not sure how the BLI hoppers will strip with the Iso Al, but it does work great on the Kato paint. And I recently used this on an Atlas model and an IMRC F7 shell, and it works great!
Brian
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