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Post by trenes115 on Oct 29, 2014 8:38:45 GMT -8
I have several Walthers and Rapido passenger cars which need their car number or name decals applied. How necessary is sealing or coating the decals after application? Is there a good way of just spot coating the numberboard decals, not the entire car? Thanks!
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Post by TBird1958 on Oct 29, 2014 8:54:55 GMT -8
I would tape off and spot gloss the locations you want to apply decals to, with care you should probably be able to do the decals and then overcoat without having to re mask. Without gloss underneath the decals will "blush" (show small whitish pockets of air underneath because the surface is too rough) and short of removing the decal it's difficult to fix. I usually gloss a decalled area and then shoot dullcote as it helps hide the thin layer of decal film and keep the model's finish looking consistent, a good airbrush really helps the whole process. Additionally sealing the decal will protect it and keep it from drying out over time.
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Post by gmpullman on Oct 30, 2014 0:52:37 GMT -8
TBird is right on the money. You need a glossy surface under the decal, then once it is applied you can overcoat it with whatever clear finish you like. My preference would be that Walthers would provide a glossier finish on their passenger cars. In most cases the railroads kept the cars washed and the paint fresh all through the '50s and '60s. Watch some of the videos of the period and unless the train has just crossed the Country, the equipment is highly reflective. IF you want to tone the gloss down it is much easier with weathering and clear matte finish than trying to go the other way! The Walthers decal film seems to be much thicker than, say, Microscale. A few of the cars that I have applied the names to looked awful because of the film thickness and because I didn't bother to shoot a gloss coat beforehand so the whitish blush that TBird mentions results. On a few occasions, the decal fell right off! I bought some small Avery peel off stickers that are pretty close to the window size on a lightweight car and used them to mask the windows, then gave the car a coat of Pollyscale gloss, then the decal, then a coat of gloss with just a bit of matte added to tone it down. Turned out OK but took hours! I have about 200 passenger cars in my roster therefore—most of my cars remain nameless. I bought the Super-Deluxe Capitol Limited which is supposed to have  [ YES!] factory applied car names! I WISH, Oh how I wish Walthers would provide DRY TRANSFERS for the car names. I have used ones from CDS lettering for some of my NYC cars and they look like they are painted on and no further treatment is necessary. Dry transfers never seem to have been accepted by most modelers. Let us hear how you make out... Ed |
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Post by enginseer on Oct 30, 2014 5:30:15 GMT -8
I use Future floor polish to undercoat and seal my decals.
Doesn't "yellow" overtime, is very thin to get into nooks and crannies, wont chip and tends not to "craze".
I use it on my military models as well.
You can thin it to get a satin or gloss coat and it is spot brush and airbrush friendly.
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Post by Judge Doom on Oct 31, 2014 1:21:14 GMT -8
Sometimes the finish on the car or loco will already be smooth or glossy enough that it would hide most of the decal film without an initial gloss or clear coat. I always cut my decals as tight as possible to reduce any film surrounding them. Takes a bit more time but avoids those obvious decal "squares" you see on a lot of decalled models.
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Post by bogp40 on Nov 2, 2014 6:18:57 GMT -8
I have several Walthers and Rapido passenger cars which need their car number or name decals applied. How necessary is sealing or coating the decals after application? Is there a good way of just spot coating the numberboard decals, not the entire car? Thanks! All my Walther's heavyweights have a 'semi-gloss" finish. As mentioned those supplied decals are somewhat thicker than others as stated. A few cars were lettered w/o any prior glosscoat and the results were poor. The B&O blue is rather dark and showed significant "silvering". Brushing on Future to the decal area solved this. Light weathering and/or an added seal coat to the sides helped hide the film (I will mix touch of "glosscoat" to the flat for a semi-gloss and airbrush). I haven't done any of the Rapido's, so I don't know if the same is true of their factory finish. Darker co;ors and a more flat finish usually needs to be glossed prior. One note about Microscal decals, most of the larger stand alone heralds/ decals should not have the film trimmed as they tend to have a slight tapered thinning to the film edge. Most times the Microscale applied properly and clearcoated will not show any film edge at all. |
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Post by grabbem88 on Nov 2, 2014 15:20:31 GMT -8
I got a reading sd45 and have all the microscale softener/hardener stuff but wondered if I apply my rd number over some clear cote while wet would it look better than dry??
I guess I'm gonna have to experiment
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Post by bogp40 on Nov 3, 2014 14:26:45 GMT -8
I got a reading sd45 and have all the microscale softener/hardener stuff but wondered if I apply my rd number over some clear cote while wet would it look better than dry?? I guess I'm gonna have to experiment Is this SD45 factory painted and you are only changing the road number? If so, glosscoat the cab side allow to completely dry, then apply your decals . The Microset is for applying, the Microsol is to coat to "SOLvent/ melt the film to snuggle down into cracks, hinges etc. If a more aggressive solvent is needed, use the walther's Solvaset. Care is needed w/ it as it can wrinkle up most decals if left pooled on. I will brush on above and allow to run down across the decal sopping up excess below the film w/ paper towel. Don't touch the film once the solvent is placed. If lighted no. boards, the Microscale sheet does have the white no. on black background for lighted. Not sure of the Reading arrangement. If this becomes rather difficult to cut fit and paint out for no "light leaks", Shell Scale offers the sets w/ your no, to apply directly and don't have to bother w/ all the pain of perfect splices and avoiding light leaking. |
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Post by valenciajim on Nov 4, 2014 12:18:06 GMT -8
Is Solvaset or aggrssive than Micro-sol? I have only used Microscale products, but purchased some decals from a small manufacturer who said that the Microscale products were too harsh and recommended using Sovaset instead.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2014 13:16:40 GMT -8
Is Solvaset or aggrssive than Micro-sol? I have only used Microscale products, but purchased some decals from a small manufacturer who said that the Microscale products were too harsh and recommended using Sovaset instead. Walthers Solveset is a heck of a lot more aggressive and harsh than Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. Solveset not thinned with distilled water will melt and turn a Microscale decal into mush. Solveset is the HARSHEST decal setting solution on the market today. |
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Post by valenciajim on Nov 4, 2014 15:11:40 GMT -8
Thanks Jim. I have never used Solvaset and will probably stay away from it in the future.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 4, 2014 16:03:51 GMT -8
Thanks Jim. I have never used Solvaset and will probably stay away from it in the future. I will use a tiny drop of Solveset only when Micro-Sol (red label) is incapable of making a very small area of a decal fully settle. Then I usually cut or dilute the Solveset. Even Champ who's decal film is thicker and much tougher than Microscale can be attacked with too much Solveset. The only decal that Solveset doesn't attack is Walthers. Even when setting the Walthers blankets....I mean decals....supplied with the named train passenger cars, I use the Microscale sol and set. I do a lot of decal applications and can count on my one hand the times this year I've used Solveset......ONCE and it was nearly too strong on a tiny little air bubble by a rib that Micro-Sol couldn't get to snuggle. |
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Post by nebrzephyr on Nov 5, 2014 8:12:59 GMT -8
On those occasions when Micro-Sol won't quite get that perfect fit, I use Champ's "Decal Set". Unfortunately that product was discontinued several years ago when Champ basically shutdown. Needless to say, I'm trying to conserve my "Decal Set". It can be still found occasionally on the web.
Bob
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Post by trenes115 on Nov 7, 2014 13:14:06 GMT -8
I learned that the hard way when adding Microscale Amtrak striping to a car. Fortunately was able to get the mush off without destroying the car's paint. Walthers Solveset is a heck of a lot more aggressive and harsh than Micro-Sol and Micro-Set. Solveset not thinned with distilled water will melt and turn a Microscale decal into mush. Solveset is the HARSHEST decal setting solution on the market today. |
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Post by valenciajim on Nov 7, 2014 15:18:50 GMT -8
I am building the new Walthers Hole-in-One donut shop an it is inteestg to note that the nstructionssay to use Micro-Sol rather than Solvaset. Thanks everyone for the heads up!
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