|
|
Post by riogrande on May 6, 2015 5:49:06 GMT -8
I have read many places that as long as you insulate the diverging end of Shinohara or Walthers code 83 switches (made by Shinohara) it will make those switches DCC compatible. Or you can cut the rail just past the frog.
I have an 15-20 year old Walthers (made by Shinohara) #6 double slip switch and that thing diverges on both ends so I assume I need to insulate the rails on all sides and solder power feeders to the rail?
What is the reccommeded way to install, insulate and power these double slip switches for DCC use?
|
|
|
|
Post by NS4122 on May 6, 2015 15:53:16 GMT -8
Just about everything you need know to wire turnouts for DCC (with diagrams)is here: www.wiringfordcc.com/switches.htmsee suggestion #2-10 for Shinohara double slip switches |
|
|
|
Post by riogrande on May 7, 2015 7:13:55 GMT -8
Thanks for that resource. I've gone ahead an printed it out so I can work on that Double slip before I install it - looks like a project in and of itself! It looks like I'm going to have to cut the rail in a couple places so question is do I use my dremel, but the rail gets pretty hot, or just us my razor saw.
|
|
|
|
Post by NS4122 on May 7, 2015 8:15:02 GMT -8
Thanks for that resource. I've gone ahead an printed it out so I can work on that Double slip before I install it - looks like a project in and of itself! It looks like I'm going to have to cut the rail in a couple places so question is do I use my dremel, but the rail gets pretty hot, or just us my razor saw. Using the Dremel is problematic. A straight vertical thin cut is preferable, but due to the diameter of the cutoff disc in most cases being smaller than the diameter of the dremel, you won't be able to do it. Larger size cutoff discs are available, but they are thicker. Maybe someone else has a better solution, as the razor saw sounds tedious. |
|
|
|
Post by riogrande on May 7, 2015 9:09:11 GMT -8
Yes, I've used my Dremel quite a bit and don't see it as a good solution. If I had a Dremel with a flexi shaft, it might be doable but I don't. I have both thickness of cutoff disks but diameter is the same on those. Razor saw right now is the only obvious alternative.
|
|
|
|
Post by emd16645 on May 8, 2015 7:55:14 GMT -8
Using the Dremel would be easiest, particularly if you have flex head option. If you windup with too big a gap, you could CA in a piece of styrene to close it up.
|
|
|
|
Post by riogrande on May 8, 2015 9:10:56 GMT -8
I don't have the flex head so won't be easy and I am not going go out and buy one just for this - money isn't abundant right now. Plus I've noticed when cutting rail, it can get pretty hot so I there is the risk of melting plastic around the area too - although I have heat sinks. Anywho...
|
|
|
|
Post by riogrande on May 9, 2015 15:19:48 GMT -8
Ok so I had some time to work on the layout - drove a golden spike of sorts (connected the entire mainline) and still need to add wire drops to drive trains around
Anyhow, I noticed my Walthers #6 switch seems to have plastic between the rails at the place the website said I needed to cut the rails so maybe this one is dcc friendly? I may still need to run the jumpers tho.
|
|
