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Post by mrsocal on May 23, 2015 15:34:21 GMT -8
Here is going to be my next project. I thought you all might enjoy following along and probably be of some great help as well. Here is my prototype shot and the Intermountain car I will use.
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Post by mrsocal on May 23, 2015 17:42:42 GMT -8
Any detail photos of this National Steel Car Co. 4550 Cb. Ft. car would be greatly appreciated. Roof,dispense hatch,anything please.
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Post by TBird1958 on May 23, 2015 18:01:16 GMT -8
Looking forward to your results Scotty, of course the "build photos" will be inspirational too!
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Post by mrsocal on May 23, 2015 18:59:22 GMT -8
Thank you TBird. OK I have started this build with new ladder rungs. i am using .015 brass rod and with a small nail set I am attempting to create the rivet seat on the rung. I am going in the right direction by how do I refine the end product? I have 30 to do.
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Post by Judge Doom on May 25, 2015 4:45:02 GMT -8
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Post by mrsocal on May 25, 2015 5:32:16 GMT -8
Thank you Judge, those roofies will be of help.
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Post by mrsocal on Jun 13, 2015 9:03:47 GMT -8
Hi gang, sorry Ive been busy with life stuff but here is a "to the moment update". The nail set worked out with just a to inconsistent rivet ring. I was going to abandoned the idea but Hummer Dave who I am sure several of you know gave me some corrective ideas and BAM it worked. A pair of 6" Vise Grips and the results are way better. Here is the new result and is it perfect no but by the time I paint and weather it the eye will not see what the cameras eye can. Now I have never used Archer decals so what is the correct decal sheet # for ladder rung rivets? Thanks everyone for the help.
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Post by Spikre on Jun 13, 2015 9:15:05 GMT -8
2 times in a week that the 4650 cars have been miss-IDed as 4550s. once in N,now in HO. there have been articles for modeling the 4650s correctly,one by Bob Rivard in MRJ comes to mind. interesting !! Spikre
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Post by mrsocal on Jun 13, 2015 9:45:55 GMT -8
That is all fine and well but I am going to do this build with what I've got. Don't have the $$$ to just buy a new IM kit over 100 Cu. Sq. Ft. of space. Thank you for posting just the same.
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Post by fr8kar on Jun 13, 2015 10:31:25 GMT -8
Scotty, it looks like the prototype car has a round hole pattern Morton walkway. I can't enlarge the photo to get a better look, but over the end of the car and near the end that's what I'm seeing. Otherwise, what you've got so far looks pretty good. I like the idea of fabricating the ladder rungs from wire with squeezed ends like the prototype. You might consider making a tool out of plastic that you can use to trim the wire to length and position it for the squeezing so that each part is uniform. It would make the next car you do that much easier. I haven't done what you're doing exactly, but I had enough SD40-2s to work on that I did something similar for the brake lines on the trucks: www.pbase.com/mecrharris/wire_bending
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Post by mrsocal on Jun 13, 2015 11:17:59 GMT -8
Thank you Ryan for chiming in. I have in fact started with the round hole cross overs from Plano and I am at the moment fresh out of 3 1/2" eye bolts so I have ordered 100 more. As fare as making a jig, we will see.
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Post by fr8kar on Jun 13, 2015 11:40:27 GMT -8
Those Plano eyebolts are awesome! I am guilty of over-ordering those things. I think I have enough to last forever, but then again...
If you do end up making a tool for this project or any other, I'm telling you, you won't regret it. It's a lot of extra time to do it that you won't get back, but you end up with a way of determining whether each part is good or bad in a split second.
Anyway, whatever you do, keep the photos coming. Always inspiring work coming from your bench.
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Post by dtinut on Jun 13, 2015 13:29:10 GMT -8
I would get the Micro-Mark rivets for doing the rivets holding on the grabs. They aren't quite as "fine" as archer rivets, but you'll get many more than archer for 1/2 the cost. They would be the right size too. For archer, you'd have to check their website, as they have lots of different sizes to choose from.
If you want your grabs to be a bit more consistent, (not sure if they are glued on or not yet) you might consider using a dremel with a cutoff wheel, to even up the flanges so they are closer to being parallel with the rung.
Nice work. Brian
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Post by atsfan on Jun 13, 2015 14:19:55 GMT -8
2 times in a week that the 4650 cars have been miss-IDed as 4550s. once in N,now in HO. there have been articles for modeling the 4650s correctly,one by Bob Rivard in MRJ comes to mind. interesting !! Spikre What exactly is the noticeable difference between the two?
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Post by Judge Doom on Jun 13, 2015 20:18:10 GMT -8
2 times in a week that the 4650 cars have been miss-IDed as 4550s. once in N,now in HO. there have been articles for modeling the 4650s correctly,one by Bob Rivard in MRJ comes to mind. interesting !! Spikre What exactly is the noticeable difference between the two? In the case of cars like the Scoular Grain and Pillsbury cars, a very slight increase in lengths of the body at the ends. Notice how the ends of the body extend past the jacking pads at the bottom, and the area around the end cages at the ends appear smaller on this 4650 cuft cylindrical: canadianfreightcargallery.ca/cgi-bin/image.pl?i=unpx120355&o=procorVersus this 4550 cuft cylindrical with more of an area at the end platforms, less of a slope to the ends, and the body ending at the edges of the jacking pads. Intermountain's cylindical is the NSC 4550 cuft version (there were minor differences between manufacturers). canadianfreightcargallery.ca/cgi-bin/image.pl?i=cn382199&o=cnThere was another 4650 version with extended upper portions instead, built by NSC I believe. The idea was to try to compete with Pullman-Standard and ACF hoppers of that time that filled the entire car's clearance profile area with a more square design, allowing more cargo to be hauled in less overall length. Some buyers that come to mind are ATSF and Warrenton RR. Bachmann made this car. canadianfreightcargallery.ca/cgi-bin/image.pl?i=cn383372_2&o=cnThere's also a few other small lengths, including a shorter overall 3800cuft car with straight ends ordered by a bunch of roads. IMRC paints up foobie 4550's in the 3800 cuft car schemes too: canadianfreightcargallery.ca/cgi-bin/image.pl?i=thb1533&o=thbcanadianfreightcargallery.ca/cgi-bin/image.pl?i=cp382261&o=cprailcanadianfreightcargallery.ca/cgi-bin/image.pl?i=thb1522&o=thbcanadianfreightcargallery.ca/cgi-bin/image.pl?i=nchx38809&o=northamericanYou done been smote, by cylindrical hopper car knowledge.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jun 14, 2015 9:43:31 GMT -8
I've got to endorse what Ryan says about jigs and/or assembly fixtures.
On those rare occasions when I actually do that modeling thing I keep hearing about, I use them a LOT. Sometimes it even takes longer to build a jig than to use it. BUT. I then know that every part is exactly the way I want it. And, for multiple parts, all are exactly the same.
For one of my current rolling stock projects, I must have made at least a dozen jigs. And I'm not done yet.
Almost all of my jigs/fixtures are made from Evergreen styrene. Some of them are even designed as glueing jigs. Yup, I've built jigs for holding styrene while applying MEK to that styrene. And made the jig from styrene.
My most recent one is for assembling Athearn diesel coupler pockets containing Sergent couplers. And their teeny springs. I would never even try it without one. Oh, no, no, no!
Ed
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Post by Spikre on Jun 19, 2015 11:21:06 GMT -8
too bad Bachman blew it on the NSC 4650s. they did look good in a train until the IMRC cars showed up about 8 years later. think the length was slightly short,but not objectionally so,but the low height really was a clinker. but what did people expect from a $3.98 list price RTR car ? Spikre
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Post by runs2waynoka on Jun 19, 2015 15:23:09 GMT -8
too bad Bachman blew it on the NSC 4650s. they did look good in a train until the IMRC cars showed up about 8 years later. think the length was slightly short,but not objectionally so,but the low height really was a clinker. but what did people expect from a $3.98 list price RTR car ? Spikre I don't want to detract from Scotty's excellent work by taking this off subject too far, but has anyone ever attempted to upgrade one of those Bachmann NSC 4650s? Looks like the end cages could come from a Intermountain 4550 kit, but the way the roof and hatches are molded, it might be a challenge to get that area to look right... The overall length is very close to the Intermountain car so the roofwalk wouldn't be too much of a problem. Brad
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Post by Spikre on Jun 20, 2015 10:48:20 GMT -8
Brad, not a detail up-grade,but did do some work to one about 85. added Kadees,and rebuilt the bolster for Front Range Swivel National C-1 100 ton trucks with rotating bearing caps. and the Narrow P-88 Profile Front Range 36" wheels. took a few tries to get the car to track properly,the fix was to widen the gauge of the P-88 wheels,then it was a fine runner. left it in Blue Heritage Fund,a Foooooobie,but the only other Plastic Cylinder car back then was the shorter Model Power car based on the CP 3800 CUFT cars,and much cruder than the Bachman car. the bodies low height may make up-grading the car a bit of a challenge ? the car was popular at Club Open Houses. Spikre
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Post by mrsocal on Apr 12, 2017 14:49:03 GMT -8
Wow it's appears that I am not the best on keeping up. As of 4-8-17 I have gotten one side up to decals and sealed. On the 9th I did start to base weather on side 2. I have decided that I am going to scratch build the shaker mounting brackets on the dispensing ports also.
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Post by TBird1958 on Apr 12, 2017 15:13:14 GMT -8
Wow, looking really good Scotty! Your bench is a lot more organized than mine too.
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Post by el3672 on Apr 12, 2017 16:57:38 GMT -8
Nice Build's there Scotty....Really looking great! Thanks for keeping up. BTW I like the weathering layers, what's your technique and what mediums are you using?
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Post by mrsocal on Apr 13, 2017 14:57:16 GMT -8
Thank you all for the comps and input. Alex as for how and mediums... My mediums are, Prismatic pencils, acrylic paints, acrylic oils, chalks, powders and oils bring up the tail end. Most important, a few stiff drinks to loosen up and forget about work. I tend to like undec. models to work with but this will work with finished R-T-R too. Once my base color is applied and sealed under a dull coat I look long and hard at my proto photo for the brake down. I.E. where I'm going to start. I'm looking down by the base color as if the picture is a Revell model schematic. and start there. For this build I did a wash 1st of yellow orchid acrylic oil cut down as needed with water. . Then using a dark brown prismatic pencil I did some of the panel lines as needed by darkening the weld lines. Once I got those on I moved over to chalks and started color changing and fading as needed. Keep in mind that I seal in dull coat at each medium change or sometimes color changes. I guess to explain this I will say it is like using a computer. As you build a document you save it along the way as not to loose it as you move forward. In the same way as you are at a point in weathering that you like it then seal it down with dull coat. In this way as you move forward you can erase or back up a mistake to a stopping point of your choice. At this point it was time to add the patch paint. Time to cook dinner, I'll con't this in a bit. sorry.
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Post by mrsocal on May 4, 2017 16:46:52 GMT -8
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Post by mrsocal on May 8, 2017 15:28:55 GMT -8
This weekend I managed one belly and all 4 trucks.
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Post by mrsocal on May 27, 2017 5:45:00 GMT -8
Complete.
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Post by fiend540 on May 27, 2017 8:18:03 GMT -8
They look awesome, great job!
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Post by talltim on May 28, 2017 12:50:47 GMT -8
Real nice job there
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Post by tankcarsrule on Mar 12, 2021 6:44:39 GMT -8
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