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Post by areibel on Feb 6, 2018 19:16:24 GMT -8
There are a couple pics of S series Alcos and one SW8 on George Ellwood's site here- www.rr-fallenflags.org/dh/dh-loco.htmlBut I hadn't noticed that there weren't that many plain switchers. I'm not that familiar with D&H operations, maybe someone more knowledgeable can chime in?
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Post by areibel on Jan 24, 2018 11:05:34 GMT -8
We went on a tour of Larry's Truck and Electric several years ago with the Erie Lackawanna Historical Society. There were a bunch of dead SW's and NW's parked in several rows. I thought a hood from one of them would be a great lawnmower shed, but my wife didn't quite agree..
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Post by areibel on Nov 3, 2017 11:10:28 GMT -8
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Post by areibel on Aug 18, 2017 12:31:38 GMT -8
Just look at the user name backwards. You'll see something interesting?
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Post by areibel on Jul 31, 2017 12:09:30 GMT -8
I heard they were sick of people complaining about their GE locomotives coming with incandescent bulbs, so they're going to get rid of them and release a GE incandescent bulb. Available at Lowes and Home Depot. (kidding) There's a story about the U34CH's arrived in NJ Transit back when.. During the period when some of the reliability issues were common one of the NJT's conductors was heard commenting that GE should have stuck to making light bulbs...
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Post by areibel on Jul 28, 2017 14:40:53 GMT -8
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Post by areibel on Jul 4, 2017 4:38:40 GMT -8
That's what I did, luckily I only had about 1 gig of pics on there. I've been a paying member for years, I think it was $25 or something but it wasn't bad. But $400 is way out of line and the ads on there were getting terrible. So I bailed out before they decided to hold my pics hostage or something. You need to send them an email to stop the recurring charge, supposedly that switches your account to a "free" one but I doubt they're going to give you much with that.
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Post by areibel on Jul 2, 2017 12:29:46 GMT -8
I use black RTV, available in the hardware store. If I have to maintain shaft alignment I put a styrene spacer under the motor, then use a little RTV to glue the spacer and motor both in at the same time. It doesn't take a lot, and you can cut the RTV with an Xacto knife or razor blade if you need to change it.
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Post by areibel on May 27, 2017 5:11:47 GMT -8
There was a small Canadian resin manufacturer in the 90's that was promising things but sometimes not delivering on them. Associated Model Makers (AMM, may have been related to Nova Tech, NAFTA Trains, Prototype Model Makers, and Fletchco Scale Products) released what some call "soap carvings" of resin loco shells including CP's SD40-2F *, CN HR-widebodies, CN/VIA LRC, Turbo Train and a few others, but also had a long laundry list of Canadian-specific models they were going to or wanted to produce on their website, as well as ads in Model Railroader. I've heard from others that some shady individuals may have been in charge, and that some modelers got burnt over the years dealing with them. That "gentleman" was doing the same thing in several scales. He produced a few small resin detail items in TT scale, then promised rolling stock and a GP38-2 and never delivered. The thing no one could figure out is he actually had the masters for several TT freight cars (that were sold later on Ebay), his castings looked good but evidently he just couldn't get his stuff together.
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Post by areibel on Mar 6, 2017 14:23:01 GMT -8
The OP's post isn't accurate. The guys from TLT responded on the Canadian Trains Yahoo group, the ones announced are the first run. Later runs will include different paint schemes and specific details, but just like most manufacturers they're not all going to come at once.
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Post by areibel on Feb 11, 2017 16:10:48 GMT -8
A club I once belonged to used the AMI Instant Roadbed. It was a disaster. This stuff looks like the same product. The AMI would stick tenaciously in some places making slight adjustments to the track alignment impossible. In other places it would not stick at all and the track would be free-floating for several feet. We had to seal all the plywood and even after that the stuff would still not stick. Heat lamps and hair dryers wouldn't help it stick either. Ultimately, it ALL had to be ripped out. Most of the track, where it DID stick had to be scrapped, there was NO way to pry it out of the mastic. Normal ballasting techniques would not work. White glue or matte medium would not adhere to it. AMI bragged that you simply "press" the ballast in place. Awful. Stay Away! is just my 2¢ Midwest cork is my go-to roadbed. Another disadvantage is once the roadbed is down you have lost your track center-line. With split cork you can glue one side up to the line so that you still know where your track center is. Good Luck, Ed X2- I had the exact same problems with it. I used it for a small test/display layout, it worked OK for deadening the sound on foam board but if you need to change anything good luck! I couldn't salvage any of the track or switches, it ripped the rail out of the ties. And I had problems with ballast sticking as well. I glued it when I put it together but after a short time it would start popping off chunks. I originally blamed it on rough handling but it sounds like the same issue, the roadbed wasn't giving any grip. Al
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Post by areibel on Jan 10, 2017 14:30:02 GMT -8
I wonder if acetone would dissolve it though? FUD is some sort of nylon and acetone won't affect it, but I'd hate to dissolve anything!
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Post by areibel on Jan 10, 2017 13:39:56 GMT -8
That looks great! The only thing I haven't figured out is what mystery coating is on the new black stuff. On the FUD shells you could soak them in a little water and Dawn dish soap to remove the goop. The new one looks like it has oil on it, I gave it a quick dunk (about 5 minutes) but it still has some on it- it looks shiny like oil, and it's only in spots. I'll have to give it a longer soak and see if that does it. Al
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Post by areibel on Jan 10, 2017 13:14:23 GMT -8
The FUD and FXD materials are brittle, but I just got a shell in their black fine detail acrylic and it turned out really nice. The FUD always had layers, but it was a crap shoot if you'd get one that would cover with a coat of primer or if you would need to sand it, and sanding was a pain because some of the details were fine enough and close together they'd be gone if you slipped a bit. I'm hoping the new stuff is better overall, some model makers haven't offered it yet but existing designs can just be switched over if you contact the designer- and it's a little cheaper too!
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Post by areibel on Dec 8, 2016 18:38:35 GMT -8
What you do not want to do is label a package as containing something other than what it is. Yup, This! It will ask for a value, you can shave it down a bit but if you put $10 on a $100 item they will notice it, you probably won't catch as much flack as the guy receiving. Marking it as a toy train hasn't caused any problems. You can mark it as a gift, but that can backfire as well. I've shipped to Europe and while their taxes might seem high they seem to deal with it.
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Post by areibel on Dec 8, 2016 18:19:15 GMT -8
(snip) Just be sure to hire a cranky old lady with OCD and a good work ethic. Ed But..But.. My wife doesn't speak Chinese! Oh, you meant over there- never mind!
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Post by areibel on Nov 20, 2016 17:21:05 GMT -8
You could just use some silicone caulk under it, if you don't force it down too hard it will form a cushion under the ties when it cures. You might even be able to force it under without tearing it up if you're careful
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Post by areibel on Aug 23, 2016 16:59:05 GMT -8
Two great sources for info- Freeman Supply has a lot of information on their site- www.freemansupply.com/library/videoAnd Smooth On has a lot on their site as well- www.smooth-on.com/tutorials/I've used Smooth On's OOMO style rubbers with great results, they might not be the best for mass production but for a couple parts they're excellent. And the Mold Max ones are sturdier and not real finicky to use, most are a 50/50 mix so you don't need a scale to mix and most don't need vacuuming to remove bubbles. And any of the Smooth Cast 300 series plastics are easy to use, some of the others like some of the Task series are tricky and need to be pressure cast, but they're more specialty plastics. One TT manufacturer used to make freight trucks out of it and it stood up to many hours of operating with steel axles, but I tried to use it without a pressure pot and it turned out looking like Swiss cheese. I enjoy messing around with it, and the more you experiment the more you learn!
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Post by areibel on Jul 17, 2016 10:16:30 GMT -8
I don't think elfan was questioning the detail end of things (or lack thereof)of the Scale Trains model, the pics speak for themselves. But when it comes down to buying or not buying a fantastic model because of the color of the paint on the trucks it does make me scratch my head as well!
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Post by areibel on Jul 13, 2016 8:18:36 GMT -8
areibel: Mike and Paul from our Product Development team are big fans of the SD40T-2 since they're both SP modelers. With the Athearn model and the recent Intermountain announcement, is there room for another SD40T-2? Shane Shane Wilson President ScaleTrains.com, Inc. Yes, there is. Bill McBride I agree! After seeing the pics of the regular Dash 2 I'm impressed, but sadly none of the roads I follow had them. I like SP/Cotton Belt too, and I wouldn't mind if you did one in another favorite color scheme- www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2226672www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2226672
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Post by areibel on Jul 8, 2016 8:21:06 GMT -8
I wonder if they'll do a Tunnel Motor Version as well?
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Post by areibel on Jun 18, 2016 6:57:58 GMT -8
If you're listing something do a search for the same thing before you list it. You can go up the the little "advanced" tab beside the search box and click that, it takes you to a page where there is an option for "Search Completed Items". If you mark that you'll see a list of everything that has sold (or didn't), the prices paid, etc.. That can give you a good idea of what an item has been selling for.
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el
Jun 17, 2016 18:41:57 GMT -8
Post by areibel on Jun 17, 2016 18:41:57 GMT -8
It's a good read, I didn't really think much about how the ICC affected railroads when they were in charge. If you're interested in how railroads could have been check out this link- en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Interstate_Commerce_CommissionScroll down to the Ripley plan and see what was proposed in 1920. It would have made some differences! The EL never would have been, instead the Erie and DL&W would have become part of the C&O/ Nickel Plate system (so no CSX today), NS wouldn't exist since the N&W would have been merged into the combined Wabash/ SAL, etc.. No "Borg" UP, since SP would stand alone and the Rio Grande would become part of the Mopac- some other interesting combinations and lots to think about!
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el
Jun 15, 2016 18:09:01 GMT -8
Post by areibel on Jun 15, 2016 18:09:01 GMT -8
Hurricane Agnes in 1972. It battered a large portion of the Southern Tier of New York State, and did huge damage to the EL right of way.
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el
Jun 13, 2016 18:12:58 GMT -8
Post by areibel on Jun 13, 2016 18:12:58 GMT -8
I can recommend a good book for anyone interested- "Death of an American Railroad" by Roger Grant. Mr. Grant discusses some of the operating issues (like the PC Maybrook yard) and some other interesting what if's, like a discussion of the EL merging with the Santa Fe (creating the first truly transcontinental railroad, but there wasn't much hope of getting that past the ICC at the time so that died out pretty quickly). It's too bad the Staggers act wasn't ten years earlier, it might have prevented some of that blue paint and can openers.
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Post by areibel on Apr 26, 2016 17:58:36 GMT -8
If you can remember any other details it would help- Steel boxcar or wood? 40 foot car? I have a friend that's an SP fan, I'll check with him and see if he's heard of them.
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Post by areibel on Apr 25, 2016 14:33:56 GMT -8
Looks fantastic Dave!
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Post by areibel on Feb 21, 2016 13:25:20 GMT -8
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Post by areibel on Feb 15, 2016 19:18:20 GMT -8
For those out there that are more familiar with the Canadian/GMD built SD40-2's, what are the differences that set it aside from a US built model? I've read a little about some features like the steps being different, but are there differences in the car body as well? Al
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Post by areibel on Jan 11, 2016 14:07:17 GMT -8
Are SD9 parts the same?
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