MEGA THREAD: 70th anniversary CPR streamlined van scratch x5

[sd40dash2]

[sd40dash2]

[sd40dash2]

These cars measure 5.5 actual inches so according to NMRA each needs to have a total weight of 3.75oz.

[sd40dash2]

[Christian]

Don't the walls, roof, and cupulo add a couple of ounces?
Having said that, I like heavy cabooses to keep the train spread out.

[sd40dash2]

^ For sure, everything other than the weight adds up to about 0.75oz. IMO cars should err to a bit heavier than lighter. Balanced weight primarily over the trucks is also important for best operations.

[sd40dash2]

[Christian]

I'm guessing your couplers aren't blasted with a rattle can?

[sd40dash2]

Under frames are done for now, time to start working on the car body ends. It cost a bit to gather all of these up but good doors are critical.

[sd40dash2]

Start working on the ends, lots of small measurements and marks involved here, buckle up and settle down for the ride.

[sd40dash2]

This is just about everything needed for the next little while.

[Christian]

Oct 9, 2023 5:39:18 GMT -8 sd40dash2 said:

I see something new.
How's everything times five (actually seven - other thread) going along?

[sd40dash2]

^ Going just fine x5, it causes one to be more careful and disciplined in model making. Jack Burgess says we should try to be as accurate as possible as often as we can. When doing multiples this concept is critical and so yes, the new calipers are a Godsend. For anyone considering scratching rolling stock, I highly recommend the multiple approach as it is only minimally more work to cut something 5x vs one. Most of the effort is in the "engineering", thought, measuring, planning, marking, drilling whether doing one or five.

[sd40dash2]

Closer look at a shiny new tool, thank you to Evan, Colin and Christian for the purchase suggestions, the tool feels and performs like a quality item. Good call!

[edgecrusher]

Oct 10, 2023 5:09:03 GMT -8 sd40dash2 said:

Closer look at a shiny new tool, thank you to Evan, Colin and Christian for the purchase suggestions, the tool feels and performs like a quality item. Good call!

Glad you  like them.  I use mine so often that I reach for them without even thinking.  The other tool I find indispensable is a good small machinists square.

[sd40dash2]

Oct 10, 2023 7:17:08 GMT -8 edgecrusher said:

Glad you  like them.  I use mine so often that I reach for them without even thinking.  The other tool I find indispensable is a good small machinists square.

I hear you on that, I have indeed been constantly reaching for the calipers with the copious amount of small measurements needed lately. This is more accurate and repeatable than the straightedge method.

OK on the machinists square...is 4" a good size or should I try for smaller?

[edgecrusher]

Yeah, I keep a 4" on my hobby bench. You don't really need much larger for working on HO rolling stock.  But I have used my larger ones for working on structures.

[Colin 't Hart]

Agree with Evan; I have one of these: www.amazon.com/Zona-37-434-L-Square-Stainless-3-Inch/dp/B0006NAQL4

[edgecrusher]

Oct 10, 2023 9:07:43 GMT -8 Colin 't Hart said:

Agree with Evan; I have one of these: www.amazon.com/Zona-37-434-L-Square-Stainless-3-Inch/dp/B0006NAQL4

Ah yes, a flat plane square is also very handy to have on the bench.  But I was actually thinking about my combination square.  I have this one,  Combo square but I'm sure most any other one would be fine.

They are very useful for locking in a measurement that you want to repeat.

[sd40dash2]

I do have the flat square which is near the 1-2-3 block in the photo above.

This is what I think of when I read machinists square:

[Christian]

The top photo is like the four-inch machinist's square I've used since high school. Not my square, but a modern, still available square that I found on Amazon. Nowadays I wouldn't spend that much. The second photo is a carpenter's six inch combination square for half the cost. I frequently pull the blade out and use the slider as a setup block. The combination square adds the value of a forty-five-degree block. The working faces on a combination square are ground flat and true. I occasionally use a twelve-inch combination square because that I what I have from my days of actually earning a tax-paying wage. Twelve inches is fine for carpentry, but awkward for building models. Nine-inch combination squares are also common, but I think also too large for model building. Either is essential for constructing benchwork, but benchwork isn't what this "Tool Time" break from Caboose Land is all about. We're getting Manny to spend his money!

(Both photos are from Amazon. The earlier version of this post had a photo I found on the web, but it wasn't a good photo and I deleted the whole post.)

[sd40dash2]

^ Awesome post including the embedded photos and explanation. That Irwin combo square seems to check a lot of boxes and so I added it to my cart and saved the more expensive machinists squares for later. Thanks a lot Christian!!

[sd40dash2]

First few stages.

[sd40dash2]

Body ends have many rivet lines; measure and mark their locations carefully, don't be in a rush.

[edgecrusher]

Do you find that you prefer the pounce wheel over decal type rivets? Or are you just using what you have on hand?

[sd40dash2]

I have the rivet decals here after using them on 434071 and am very pleased with the product except for the expense. Given the riveted side construction of this prototype x5, I decided to attempt the pounce wheels instead and am so far pleased with the results. But only the painting process will confirm the final result as the pounce wheels require practice, steady hands, good eyes and straightedge for optimum results. Keep an eye out for photos this weekend!

[sd40dash2]

All lined up.

[kentuckysouthernrwy]

Never used a pounce wheel on plastic, just for making “nail holes” on wood. You use it on the back side to emboss the rivets outward? What thickness styrene allows that to work. Maybe a “sidebar” to ‘splain how?

There’s nothing like good machinists tools for modeling. I happened on a huge oak machinists tool box from a master machinist from Oldsmobile’s estate sale that is stuffed with every imaginable thing, 1-2-3 blocks, scribes, hammers, squares, files, rules, micrometers etc, the family asked $100 and helped me carry it to my truck. It’s been a treasure chest. If only I had the skills to realize the potential of it all.

[sd40dash2]

^ Thanks for your post, that sounds like an excellent use of $100.

The pounce wheels seem to be attracting some attention here. I am giving them a try on this project to see how they turn out. My original plan was to try pouncing .010 from the back as you suggest but after watching several aircraft modeller videos, decided to pounce right on the .040 sides and ends from the front. I know it will make female dents but these things are very small. Pouncing the roof sections from behind .010 is another method that will be tried and results demonstrated here as well.

Here is a video which explains the pounce process and tools very well.

[Christian]

Oct 12, 2023 13:33:01 GMT -8 sd40dash2 said:

I decided to attempt the pounce wheels instead and am so far pleased with the results. But only the painting process will confirm the final result as the pounce wheels require practice, steady hands, good eyes and straightedge for optimum results. Keep an eye out for photos this weekend!

You've not done this before? I would suggest that you try a sample through painting and photographing before committing to all those sides, ends, and roofs. There might be a reason that negative rivets haven't been a common technique for a while.

Back in the days of Yahoo Lists, there was a modeling group I followed that had as its masthead motto: Digital Photography Has Ruined Everything!