|
|
Post by markfj on Nov 14, 2024 16:18:49 GMT -8
sd40dash2 Good to see you’re not going overboard on the details. I fell down that slippery slope when the Accurail three-bay kits came out a few years back. After adding brake lines, replacement couplers & wheelsets, and a trainline, I was at the price point of a Tangent model. An odd thing about the three-bay kits is that the bolster was molded with a disc at the center pin that raised the height of the car to accommodate the 33” wheelsets. To get the coupler high correct after replacing the wheelsets, I had to remove that molded disc. Sorry I don’t have photos of the modification, but I can see in your photos the same disc has been molded into the bolster pin area. You might want to check the coupler height before getting too far into the assembly. (Very old, and rather crappy, photos of my work!)     Thanks, Mark J. Reading, PA |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 14, 2024 16:42:10 GMT -8
^ Thank you for your comments and photos, markfj, very much appreciated. Yes, I know what you mean about the bolster. I had a heck of a time getting everything mounted and properly aligned for all the reasons you described. Good thing my basic modelling skills were there to save the day.  AFA your detail comments, you are of course correct about the cost of upgrades. I have Tangent and Accurail cars and feel there is a place for both. Basic builds of the type being illustrated here bring a lot of us, a lot of enjoyment. So does RTR but in different ways. Accurail tooling quality has become quite good and the results are very pleasing when a kit is upgraded as you show. IMO we ought to be grateful for Accurail and their continuing line of kit releases. They fill a niche and address a need (affordable decorated kits) not being done by anyone else at this point. |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 15, 2024 7:43:27 GMT -8
This model weighs in at 0.5 ounces light per NMRA. Be careful when attaching interior items to the factory weight so all will clear the body end sheets. The factory weight is glued to tabs on the end sheets.
|
|
|
|
Post by gevohogger on Nov 15, 2024 9:40:11 GMT -8
Take note that the area under the slope sheets is much less weathered than the roof and sides. I wonder if that's just a natural progression of how that kind of paint rusts (lousy water-based paint perhaps?) or if there's some sort of caustic dust or something that gets on the car sides and compromises the paint. Regardless, those clean ends and slope sheets will make for an easier weathering job to finish the kit. |
|
|
|
Post by cpr4200 on Nov 15, 2024 9:59:59 GMT -8
Take note that the area under the slope sheets is much less weathered than the roof and sides. I wonder if that's just a natural progression of how that kind of paint rusts (lousy water-based paint perhaps?) or if there's some sort of caustic dust or something that gets on the car sides and compromises the paint. Regardless, those clean ends and slope sheets will make for an easier weathering job to finish the kit. I'm sure the lading affects the roof and sides, since whatever gets spilled while loading washes downward over time. The ends are protected from this effect. |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 15, 2024 10:39:05 GMT -8
^ Thanks for the very helpful weathering analysis from mark, gevo and walt. I continue to value this type of input and will approach the weathering process with light layers and an open mind.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 16, 2024 7:17:39 GMT -8
Air reservoir, brake rod/chain and crossover platforms have all been installed along with the end sheets. I chose to substitute the factory crossover platforms with Plano parts and replaced the moulded horizontal hand railing with wire.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 17, 2024 8:09:28 GMT -8
Insert floor into body shell. Most of the weathering visible here has been added by me using chalks, being very careful not to overdo it.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 18, 2024 6:40:16 GMT -8
Brighter light reveals the many spots still needing more weathering touch up. Wheels have been changed to 36" size.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 19, 2024 6:46:53 GMT -8
The roof hatches plus the new brake system/lines and many other spots need touchups as we see from this top view. Remember the comments above by walt and gevo.
|
|
|
|
Post by gevohogger on Nov 19, 2024 7:12:43 GMT -8
I like the hatches looking the way you've done them; being cleaner / less rusted than the rest of the roof.
Some cars use fiberglass hatches, but I am not sure about this kind. But I do like the variety you get by leaving these cleaner, suggesting maybe the caustic substance in the car doesn't attack the paint quite so much.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 19, 2024 7:34:33 GMT -8
^ Actually those are the factory hatches as I couldn't determine what they were made of. If fiberglass maybe they should be even more grey? If metallic then matched to surrounding area.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 20, 2024 7:05:19 GMT -8
Paint will be needed underneath the sills but most of the other spots will be filled in using chalks and a microbrush. This is the very last brush in the 25-pack I purchased in August 1998.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 21, 2024 7:31:06 GMT -8
More layers of chalks plus the painted sills, trucks and wheels, keep tabs on ARF thread comments as I go.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 22, 2024 6:38:19 GMT -8
Roof hatches and inside edges of running boards need chalk or paint matching as well as inside the end platforms. Was this right? What are the real hatches made of?
|
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Nov 22, 2024 8:19:24 GMT -8
Roof hatches and inside edges of running boards need chalk or paint matching as well as inside the end platforms. Was this right? What are the real hatches made of? Without a photograph, you made a correct choice. The real hatches could be steel, aluminium, fiberglass, or ABS plastic. All with steel or aluminium fittings. A car as old as your model could have four different hatches. Aluminium hatches are the least likely because they were a prime target for metal thieves. |
|
