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Post by Deleted on Dec 11, 2013 16:35:04 GMT -8
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Post by onequiknova on Dec 11, 2013 18:57:45 GMT -8
This is shaping up to be one nice looking model of one ugly beast.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 12, 2013 16:52:26 GMT -8
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Post by Judge Doom on Dec 12, 2013 22:12:35 GMT -8
Coming along nicely! Do all P2K E8/9B's have all that behind-the-grills detail, or is this a later upgraded model?
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Post by onequiknova on Dec 12, 2013 22:18:52 GMT -8
Coming along nicely! Do all P2K E8/9B's have all that behind-the-grills detail, or is this a later upgraded model? That would be a later, upgraded E8. There was nothing prototypical about the detailing behind the grilles of the original P2K E8's. For lack of a better description, it was just kind of a grid work behind the grilles so they had something to glue them to.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 13, 2013 8:05:02 GMT -8
Coming along nicely! Do all P2K E8/9B's have all that behind-the-grills detail, or is this a later upgraded model? That would be a later, upgraded E8. There was nothing prototypical about the detailing behind the grilles of the original P2K E8's. For lack of a better description, it was just kind of a grid work behind the grilles so they had something to glue them to. The original run of P2K E8/9's did have as John points out a grid pattern that matched up with "grid" of the horizontal stainless grilles. Life-Like I assume still hadn't learned its lesson after the movable shutters of the GP18 and the best the rotating radiator fan blade on the FA/B2's. They were trying too hard to achieve see through body parts. When Life-Like rolled out the highly wanted E8/9B's they retooled the area behind the Farr grilles which is pretty close to being spot on to the prototype. There are still some slight boo-boo's in the tooling, such as they have shutters by the dynamic brake housing and by the steam generator compartment. For the P2K's short comings versus the BLI E8/9, Life-Like/Walthers Proto E8/9 is better behind the grilles, which amounts to a small victory.
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Post by tdspeedracer on Dec 13, 2013 8:38:36 GMT -8
Life-Like I assume still hadn't learned its lesson after the movable shutters of the GP18 .... It's funny you brought that up. That was the project I just finished up last night. Along with removing the unsightly moveable cab shades. I can't wait to see this unit once you get it in paint. It's looking great. Trevor
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Post by tdspeedracer on Dec 17, 2013 8:27:01 GMT -8
The chassis I had for this is unfortunately broken in half. So now I have lots of spare Proto 2000 E-unit chassis parts. Unknown to me sometime or somehow someone must have thrown the P2K box around that held the chassis and the shell. The shell is fine but chassis frame snapped in half between the front truck bolster and the fuel tank. Other parts of the chassis frame also broke off from the rough treatment. Jim, Craig Z. can explain this better, but there was a batch of early P2K E8s that had impurities in the frame metal that caused them to crack over time, and it's not uncommon to find the frame in two or three pieces after years of storage in the box. I've had two end up that way, and many other people reported them too. Dave Yep, I just discovered that mine has suffered the same fate. I bought it a good 12 years ago or more in hopes of doing BN 3, but never got ispired to do so after that. The last couple months I've been planning on painting it up as BN 9983 (a whole lot less time consuming) for my dad's christmas present. When I pulled it out of the box, I figured I was going to have issues as I could see the paint on the frame was all cracked. I was hoping that I could gingerly change the couplers and add a decoder to hold it over for the time being. Not to be. I couldn't even get the coupler box cover off with out snapping the whole mount off. Too bad their isn't anyway to inforce the warranty they came with. Trevor
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Post by nightmare0331 on Dec 18, 2013 10:22:01 GMT -8
Jim...this is pretty slick looking. Can't wait to see more in progress shots. How do you plan on doing the HEP? I have a couple of OMI units that have been languishing because I never got around to rebuilding the HEP setup on them which I'm pretty sure is incorrect, but when I looked (granted, a long time ago) I could never find decent roof shots showing the HEP conversions on the Crandalls. Enjoy! Kelley. www.dufordmodelworks.com
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Post by Deleted on Dec 18, 2013 11:52:16 GMT -8
Jim...this is pretty slick looking. Can't wait to see more in progress shots. How do you plan on doing the HEP? I have a couple of OMI units that have been languishing because I never got around to rebuilding the HEP setup on them which I'm pretty sure is incorrect, but when I looked (granted, a long time ago) I could never find decent roof shots showing the HEP conversions on the Crandalls. Enjoy! Kelley. www.dufordmodelworks.comHEP on the Crandall's was pretty much the same as the CNW owned units. Two 34" cooling fans protected by a slot pattern roof walk type grating. The OMI brass unit is way wrong in many areas. 1. HEP is completely wrong. OMI has a single 48" fan, prototype had two 34" fans 2. OMI doesn't have the seven rung ladder on the back. The brass model doesn't even have ladder grabs on the back. 3. OMI is missing has regular non-dynamic hatch. All Crandall's retained their dynamic brake hatches and fans, except for one, the 504. The 504 had the dynamic brake fan removed, but still retained the dynamic hatch with the flat for the fan. Think Rock Island ex-UP E8B's.... 4. Snow plow is nearly flat on the OMI 5. No tube shaped brace from snow plow to body 6. OMI or Ajin put a steam line on the back! 7. Front roof access panel on OMI is too small 8. Rear most part of the Farr grille should be removed
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Post by nightmare0331 on Dec 18, 2013 12:16:51 GMT -8
Jim
Thanks for the list of issues...I knew there were more reasons I set them aside...the goofy HEP setup was the thing that caught my eye primarily.
I remember thinking at the time "hmm...these are going to take more time to correct then I have right now..." I should probably pull one of them out and take another close look.
Thanks!
Kelley.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 27, 2013 16:13:05 GMT -8
The number boards and headlight area is roughed in and now just needs a touch of putty and the headlight casting.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 29, 2013 10:26:52 GMT -8
The nose and the number board/headlight are finished. I also worked the joints of the nose. The heavy lifting is nearly over on this build. Next big pain in my wide-load backside is the snow plow pilot.
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Post by onequiknova on Dec 29, 2013 11:02:47 GMT -8
Getting those compound curves to match up on the plow seemed like the biggest hurdle to me when you started this build. I'll be interested to see how it's done.
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Post by slowfreight on Oct 19, 2014 17:57:02 GMT -8
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Post by catt on Oct 20, 2014 6:37:18 GMT -8
What happened to all of the pictures?
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Post by lvrr325 on Oct 20, 2014 9:30:16 GMT -8
Someone bumped an old thread with a mildly relevant post that will itself become irrelevant in a few weeks when eBay removes the pictures as well.
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Post by slowfreight on Oct 20, 2014 17:26:19 GMT -8
Bite me, lvrr325.
The picture was relevant. It's the only such one that's surfaced in my 6 years of looking. Can't help that it's on ebay but I won't post a photo I don't own.
And the OP has always returned to finish his builds.
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Post by onequiknova on Oct 20, 2014 18:23:17 GMT -8
I for one appreciated the photo. It's just too bad they didn't torch the whole nose off for reuse, instead of just the doors.
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Post by slowfreight on Oct 20, 2014 20:34:58 GMT -8
It's just too bad they didn't torch the whole nose off for reuse, instead of just the doors. I thought the same thing, but at a glance it was probably much easier to fabricate on the existing carbody than to try a full transplant. I'm curious what of the electrical and cab equipment got transplanted with the doors. I'm sure the homebuilt cab would never meet APTA crashworthiness standards today, but I'm curious how it compared to an SDP40F or F40C cab
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