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Post by TBird1958 on Nov 24, 2013 13:34:44 GMT -8
I think this is my first thread here, happy Sunday! This is a rebuilt Walthers 4427 low side, new roofwalk, IMR PS end ladders, some wire and an HK decal set A Walthers car from long ago ( like the '90s)! And a page from a Mainline Modeller article I wrote about it. And an RYM X-79
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Post by riogrande on Nov 24, 2013 14:05:28 GMT -8
I really like the Farr-Mar-Co covered hoppers. The D&RGW regularly hauled those in the 70's and perhaps beyond as evidenced by photo's posted by Chuck Conway on Thru the Rockies: www.thrutherockies.com/www.thrutherockies.com/prototype_4.phpI picked up a couple of the Intermountain first run CF4750 cover hoppers; they are doing 6 more Far-Mar-Co hoppers next year. Your rebuild job makes the Walthers car look more like a Tangent!
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Post by TBird1958 on Nov 24, 2013 14:28:20 GMT -8
I really like the Farr-Mar-Co covered hoppers. The D&RGW regularly hauled those in the 70's and perhaps beyond as evidenced by photo's posted by Chuck Conway on Thru the Rockies: www.thrutherockies.com/www.thrutherockies.com/prototype_4.phpI picked up a couple of the Intermountain first run CF4750 cover hoppers; they are doing 6 more Far-Mar-Co hoppers next year. Your rebuild job makes the Walthers car look more like a Tangent! Thanks Jim! Nothing like modeling in the stone age, with those Walthers cars. At the time it came out I was just happy to have something other than the Athearn BB 4740!
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Post by mrsocal on Nov 24, 2013 14:35:25 GMT -8
Great looking models there. Not sure how this works being a newbie but here is my Sunday Fun pic. I have been working on containers for a well car build I am doing.
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Post by TBird1958 on Nov 24, 2013 14:36:48 GMT -8
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
Give us more! Awesome!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2013 14:43:05 GMT -8
Oldie moldies from me.
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Post by mrsocal on Nov 24, 2013 14:45:19 GMT -8
Good looking F7 Jim, Beautiful piece.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 24, 2013 14:59:43 GMT -8
For all those Amtrak SDP40F hopefuls, here is what you can do with a Kaslo shell, some parts and a little work.
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Post by TBird1958 on Nov 24, 2013 15:13:57 GMT -8
For all those Amtrak SDP40F hopefuls, here is what you can do with a Kaslo shell, some parts and a little work. Beautiful model, my fave Amtrak paint scheme. I wasn't aware anyone had done that shell, very cool!
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Post by dti406 on Nov 24, 2013 15:54:20 GMT -8
Finished some freight cars this week! IMRC 40' PS1 Boxcar, I substituted a McKeen Models 8' PS Door for the Superior Door that came with the kit, installed A-line Sill Steps, painted with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red and lettered with Greg Komar Decals. Robbins Rails (AHM) 2893CF Covered Hopper Kit, added airlines, painted with Scalecoat II MofW Gray and lettered with Champ Decals. URL=http://s765.photobucket.com/user/dti406/media/Gons/Trains112113002_zps8f6dcd1d.jpg.html] [/URL] E&C 52'-6" Corrugated Side Greenville Gon, painted Scalecoat II Boxcar Red and lettered with Oddballs Decals. Thanks for looking! Rick J
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Post by wp8thsub on Nov 24, 2013 17:36:01 GMT -8
I just finished basic groundcover and ballast for another scene. More weeds and scenic detail to come.
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Post by riogrande on Nov 24, 2013 19:53:04 GMT -8
Rob, your back drops look really good. It blends very well from the fore-ground into background - your eyes follow into it as if it is 3 dimensional. A real pleasure to look at.
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Post by bdhicks on Nov 24, 2013 22:50:01 GMT -8
It's been a while since I posted anything on my build of Crocodile GE. I've got the air tanks built and installed, and bulked up the undersized B23-7 radiator. This weekend I did some work on the air piping, and I've finished one side.
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Post by wp8thsub on Nov 25, 2013 7:41:06 GMT -8
Rob, your back drops look really good. It blends very well from the fore-ground into background - your eyes follow into it as if it is 3 dimensional. A real pleasure to look at. Thanks!
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Post by riogrande on Nov 25, 2013 8:11:09 GMT -8
Rob, your back drops look really good. It blends very well from the fore-ground into background - your eyes follow into it as if it is 3 dimensional. A real pleasure to look at. Thanks! Do you paint your own back drops and if so, did you use a photo or some guides? I'd be interested on learning some techniques - I've got some basic drawing talent from my younger days but haven't tried anything like a backdrop before. I'd like to try something like that only a desert scene like Grande Junction CO or Green River Utah type area.
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Post by mlehman on Nov 25, 2013 8:22:25 GMT -8
Down in the canyon, a Rio Grande DL-535E hauls the westbound San Juan to its terminus at Silverton...
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Post by wp8thsub on Nov 25, 2013 9:13:09 GMT -8
Do you paint your own back drops and if so, did you use a photo or some guides? I'd be interested on learning some techniques - I've got some basic drawing talent from my younger days but haven't tried anything like a backdrop before. I'd like to try something like that only a desert scene like Grande Junction CO or Green River Utah type area. I paint from prototype photos. Most of the my backdrops are composites of several. If you'd like to try out some backdrop painting of your own, I'd suggest looking through some art instruction books for some that describe things in way that makes sense to you. We all learn differently, so what helps me may not work for you. I like the books by Margaret Kessler and have gotten some good ideas from her (the titles I have are "Painting Better Landscapes" and "Color Harmony in Your Paintings"), although she paints in oil and I use acrylic. Kessler's description of color recession is great for mixing foreground and background greens, even if you use somewhat different colors. I also recommend Mike Danneman's backdrop book from Kalmbach. One of the scenes he demonstrates is of the Book Cliffs, so it could be directly translated into something useful for Grand Junction. There are a number of good books on color forumulas. You may want to add one of those too. The two biggest things I advise would-be backdrop painters are: 1. Build up the backdrop in layers. Don't try to do everything in one pass. 2. Learn to mix your own green. Pre-mixed greens rarely work well with model scenery materials, so I don't use them. All of my green is mixed from combinations of blues, yellows, black, red and/or white.
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Post by lajrmdlr on Nov 25, 2013 9:14:47 GMT -8
Great looking models there. Not sure how this works being a newbie but here is my Sunday Fun pic. I have been working on containers for a well car build I am doing.
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Post by lajrmdlr on Nov 25, 2013 9:20:41 GMT -8
Not sure who's models these are but during my BNSF conductor days don't think they put any other containers (20',40',45') on top of any 20' containers including tank types. Most of those when loaded could be VERY heavy loaded compared to other lengths loaded.
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Post by princessofthecape on Nov 25, 2013 12:55:20 GMT -8
Like the rust you did on that tank car a lot.
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Post by mrsocal on Nov 25, 2013 16:30:47 GMT -8
lajrmdlr, thank you for this info from your experiences. Very helpful bud.
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Post by TBird1958 on Nov 25, 2013 19:46:47 GMT -8
Like the rust you did on that tank car a lot. Thank you, it's some artist' oils and a bit of very thin Accu Paint airbrushed.
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Post by lajrmdlr on Nov 29, 2013 11:14:02 GMT -8
lajrmdlr, thank you for this info from your experiences. Very helpful bud. Once saw a guy from Spain running his intermodal train at our club. He had 2 well cars w/ stacked 20's. Not speaking Spanish didn't know how to tell him it's not done here. BtW more than a few times saw only one 20' in a 53' well. Also have seen intermodals w/ loads in front & bare tables in back. So if you don't have enough cans yet it's OK to run them w/ MTs.
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Post by mlehman on Nov 29, 2013 12:59:34 GMT -8
Good points, Andy. Intermodal is a lot like airline service. They're selling seats going somewhere else. Even if the plane's not full, it still needs to take off on time. Because it's expected at the other end. MT platforms will often go even if all the wells aren't full, as there's no place to keep 'em around at the origination, let alone sorting them out physically from the consist they're in. At the destination, there's likely a task already assigned to that cut of cars once it's emptied of the loads it carried in -- and sometimes even if those wells didn't bring anything in.
Just like with the airlines and a plane not being in the right position causing a cascade of problems after a storm, etc, if a cut of cars isn't filled it may be along for the ride because it's due out from another destination with the seats already sold. Doesn't always happen, as the beancounters like to see good utilization numbers, but this is a common reason for MT platforms to be on a train.
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Post by mrsocal on Nov 29, 2013 15:34:30 GMT -8
Thanks but.... what is an MT? Got to thinking about it, empty's??
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Post by mlehman on Nov 29, 2013 18:22:29 GMT -8
You got it, Scotty. MT = empty
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Nov 29, 2013 18:39:48 GMT -8
Tried to cancel this post...couldn't
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Post by lajrmdlr on Nov 29, 2013 21:04:47 GMT -8
Sometimes you'll see on the sides of cars "When MT return to _____." Used to see LNAC boxcars at S&W Fine Foods in Vernon CA on the LAJ stenciled "When MT return to MET" (Modesto (CA) & Empire Traction). Cars coming to S&W could come ATSF or SP as both go to MET. So have been collecting a few LNACs & will have to make some decals for that MT stencil.
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Post by Donnell Wells on Nov 30, 2013 23:44:22 GMT -8
I just finished basic groundcover and ballast for another scene. More weeds and scenic detail to come.
Hello Rob,
I've been following, and admiring your layout for quite some time! You track work (specifically your ballast work) has always remained consistently impeccable! Would you mind sharing your ballasting technique?
Sincerely, Donnell
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Post by wp8thsub on Dec 2, 2013 10:16:02 GMT -8
Would you mind sharing your ballasting technique? Not much to it really. I do use extra time and care during the whole process, plus I use only real rock as opposed to Woodland Scenics brand that floats around and is affected by static. I use a combination of sand and dirt for fill, then ballast on top of that. I'm currently using Scenic Express #40 dark gray and blended gray for the main and sidings, and a variety of sand for other tracks. My typical applicator is a plastic spoon, and I use a 1" artist's brush with soft bristles to brush material around the ties. Everything is sprayed with water to which a few drops of dish soap are added, then glued with 50:50 water and white glue applied from an old Elmer's bottle. I've found that isopropyl alcohol doesn't work as well as dish soap for a surfactant with Scenic Express ballast, hence the "wet water' variation I use. Use of real rock helps a lot for controlling excess material on the ties and rail, plus I'm careful to remove any excess before gluing. If anything gets out of place after I apply glue, I try to re-shape or remove the offending material before the glue dries. This photo shows track after painting, before ballasting. I used Rustoleum camouflage brown, decanted into a jar and airbrushed to control overspray. The fill is built up sand, and already glued and dry at this point. The road is also sand of a different color. The same location after ballast, and some additional weathering on the road and crossing. Nothing more than the usual sequence of applying with a spoon, spreading with a brush, wetting, and gluing. Some of the track received extra weathering after ballasting is complete. For some of the spurs and other secondary tracks I dry-brush or airbrush some dirt colors so the ties appear to pick up some of the color of their surroundings. Here's an example of secondary track that was weathered both before and after ballasting. Some tan craft paint was dry-brushed in varying amounts, but not enough to conceal the variations in tie color. Paint was applied to the ballast and ties equally to blend them.
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