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Post by mlehman on Aug 14, 2014 8:11:39 GMT -8
Chris, Thanks It's the busy look that does it. No big flat, boring panels in the roof line or something, I think.
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Post by emd16645 on Aug 14, 2014 11:46:03 GMT -8
You're welcome, happy to help.
I'll have to remember this if I ever get my hands on one of these kits.
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Post by mlehman on Aug 17, 2014 0:25:05 GMT -8
You're welcome, happy to help. I'll have to remember this if I ever get my hands on one of these kits. That's true, you'd need dynamics up your way... Here's the nose lighting necessary on the Rio Grande. Side by side withe the dynamic brake donor SD-24. Ready for paint: [img src=" " alt=" "] Hard to get the black to reveal basic details.
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Post by emd16645 on Aug 17, 2014 2:47:29 GMT -8
Looking good!
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Post by mlehman on Aug 18, 2014 7:01:53 GMT -8
Here's a round-up of pics from my SDL-39 as a Rio Grande engine... The trucks are the weak spot of this loco. Kaslo provided make-up parts that solved the too-low gearcase that would snag. But the method of attaching the side frames is pretty iffy. They are glued to the screwheads that hold the stamped brass bearing/pickup plate that goes over the axle ends. I went with CA to hold mine and I've popped everyone loose and reinstalled it at least once already. The gearbox cover/truck retainer is also pretty questionable, as it tends to wanna let the worm jump out of mesh with the next gear down. A lot is due to end play in the driveline, but I think I can solve that with some more adjusting. For now, I decided to put off a decision on lighting the numberboards, so mocked up some Shellscale ones. The front headlight holder ended up too low, so I've got a light leak to adjust. I also need some more Rio Grande-spec horns, too. I'm still undecided on whether to try to the stripes over the decal gaps left around the headlights, try to paint them, or just call them good enough. After all, no one's gonna come up with a pic of this unit to prove they didn't do it this way...
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Post by alcoc430 on Aug 18, 2014 9:33:17 GMT -8
Here's a round-up of pics from my SDL-39 as a Rio Grande engine... The trucks are the weak spot of this loco. Kaslo provided make-up parts that solved the too-low gearcase that would snag. But the method of attaching the side frames is pretty iffy. They are glued to the screwheads that hold the stamped brass bearing/pickup plate that goes over the axle ends. I went with CA to hold mine and I've popped everyone loose and reinstalled it at least once already. The gearbox cover/truck retainer is also pretty questionable, as it tends to wanna let the worm jump out of mesh with the next gear down. A lot is due to end play in the driveline, but I think I can solve that with some more adjusting. For now, I decided to put off a decision on lighting the numberboards, so mocked up some Shellscale ones. The front headlight holder ended up too low, so I've got a light leak to adjust. I also need some more Rio Grande-spec horns, too. I'm still undecided on whether to try to the stripes over the decal gaps left around the headlights, try to paint them, or just call them good enough. After all, no one's gonna come up with a pic of this unit to prove they didn't do it this way... Looks Outstanding! You can solder the screws(minus the screw heads) to the brass side bearings to eliminate the extra gap between the sideframe and bearing plate created by the screw heads. Also "That Train Place" and "Soo-much-stuff" is the same vendor on ebay.
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Post by mlehman on Aug 18, 2014 12:26:17 GMT -8
SNIP Looks Outstanding! You can solder the screws(minus the screw heads) to the brass side bearings to eliminate the extra gap between the sideframe and bearing plate created by the screw heads. Also "That Train Place" and "Soo-much-stuff" is the same vendor on ebay. Thanks Not sure I'm following you on the screw heads. You have to turn them into the gear box first to hold the brass pick up strip/bearings in place. Then the frames have a recess that is supposed to fit on the screw head. It's not a really good fit -- I think they were going for a snap fit and the screw heads didn't spec close enough to work? -- so you use glue to ensure the stay on. So far so good after doing a better job the second time. But you can't really deal with them separately. I've been doing some thinking on what I could solder to the brass pickup bar that would make a better glue surface and perch. Maybe a bar the loops up and over and solders to the inside of the pickup between the axles and be as long as the truck wheelbase? Won't worry about it if the side frames are done falling off. Good to know on that vendor. Excellent service from whoever it is
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Post by alcoc430 on Aug 20, 2014 9:28:24 GMT -8
SNIP Looks Outstanding! You can solder the screws(minus the screw heads) to the brass side bearings to eliminate the extra gap between the sideframe and bearing plate created by the screw heads. Also "That Train Place" and "Soo-much-stuff" is the same vendor on ebay. Thanks Not sure I'm following you on the screw heads. You have to turn them into the gear box first to hold the brass pick up strip/bearings in place. Then the frames have a recess that is supposed to fit on the screw head. It's not a really good fit -- I think they were going for a snap fit and the screw heads didn't spec close enough to work? -- so you use glue to ensure the stay on. So far so good after doing a better job the second time. But you can't really deal with them separately. I've been doing some thinking on what I could solder to the brass pickup bar that would make a better glue surface and perch. Maybe a bar the loops up and over and solders to the inside of the pickup between the axles and be as long as the truck wheelbase? Won't worry about it if the side frames are done falling off. Good to know on that vendor. Excellent service from whoever it is Ok nevermind It didn't click that you using the resin truck frames where the screw thread is actually needed to hold on the sideframe. On my Kaslo m420 build I'm using atlas trucks and I notched the screws (could also use brass rod) so that the tabs from the bottom pan of the truck when snapped in place will hold on the side frames/brass wiper (glued together) just like the Atlas OEM sideframes. I happen to be using 2-56 screws because they are a perfect fit for the mounting holes on the truck frame. The kaslo sideframe for the M420 (atleast my particular version) does not have indentations in the back for the screw heads so the side frame sits on top of the screw head resulting in a wider width truck unless you solder the screws and cut off the head. Of course if you use brass rod there is no screw head issue. so different model different details. Anyway back to your model. I also liked that you figured out how to fit the two fan dynamic brake on which matches prototype practice as pointed out earlier in this thread. Cool.
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Post by mlehman on Aug 20, 2014 9:34:14 GMT -8
OK, I'm unconfused now...for the moment. Thanks for appreciating my art for what it's worth. The sideframes seem to come out about right in relation to the frame above. The important thing is to remember not to grab and squeeze it around the trucks, which is otherwise a pretty safe area on a lot of diesels. I might consider some sort of rebuild, but for now, she's running pretty well, I'm actually quite happy with how she creeps. Now if she was less noisy, which is mostly about doing some more driveline tuning, that would be cool and may ultimately be the deciding factor in what I do.
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Post by mlehman on Aug 22, 2014 6:53:08 GMT -8
It's been interesting railfanning the layout with the SDL. Turns out that it's almost exactly the same length and form factor as a GP30... Got me thinking...maybe a SD30??! That GP30 roof profile would look great atop a SD chassis. And Kaslo sent along an extra set of sideframes, so...we'll see.
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