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Post by onequiknova on Jul 18, 2015 20:07:09 GMT -8
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Post by mlehman on Jul 19, 2015 0:38:43 GMT -8
Johm, Beautiful Chevy! I've always liked the mid-60s Chevy pickup and I like green. But this green just never worked for me. Still, an exquisite little build. Not sure what year these designations started, but somewhere in there a 4x4 C-10 became a K-10? Might have been more like the early 70s? Spent a lot of time speed matching and adding other adjustments in DecoderPro, cleaning wheels and doing the deferred maintenance so not a lot of photogenic stuff this week. I did refine the tunnel portal that provides an entrance to a little bit of Rio Grande Southern staging west of Durango. In the process, I managed to grab a few standard gauge action pics. A meet at Durango between the Zephyr and a coal train. Into the mountains... Rolling past the May Day Mine at Hesperus
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Post by stevef45 on Jul 19, 2015 2:00:53 GMT -8
USPS finally came through with a delivery that was ordered in June. Uggggh, forwarded mail sucks. Island Model Works NJ Transit Multilevel cab car. The trucks and frame are warped, i've contacted them to see if he can send me replacements. I ain't mad that it came messed up. Its cast resin, i kinda knew it might happen. Sh$t happens. Got a whole new look on life after this whole divorce process. The prototype The model I cleaned up all the window openings and some of the rough edges around the bottom. Im probably going to remove the cast on step ladders/stirrups. Will have to figure out a way to make a box for the sanders that sit under the conductors cab.
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Post by buffalobill on Jul 19, 2015 5:15:36 GMT -8
John, that 69 Chevy pickup is great. Its hard to tell it was not a Neo model. How did you get the front windshield to fit so well? Beautiful job. Bill
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Post by mlehman on Jul 19, 2015 5:28:28 GMT -8
Bill, I was thinking the whole body is clear, so the glassed areas are simply not painted? Like the old Williams Brothers models. I also would like to know more.
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Post by dti406 on Jul 19, 2015 5:53:24 GMT -8
John, nice Chevy PU Truck, had the 2x4 versions of those when I worked for ODOT way back when. Mike, also nice work on the tunnel opening, and Steve looks like you have some work to do on that car, but it should look great. Here are some cars I finished this week: A McKean Modern ACF 50' Boxcar with Non Terminating Ends, painted with ScaleCoat II Reading Green with a few drops of Zito Yellow added to make a more Emerald Green. Lettered with Herald King Decals. Accurail 40' Plug Door Boxcar Kit, modified with a fishbelly frame to match the prototype, removed the cast on grabs and sill steps and replaced with Tichy grabs and A-Line Sill steps. Car was painted with Scalecoat II Reefer Orange, Boxcar Red Ends and Pullman Green Sill. Pullman Green lettering came from Tom's Hobbies. Car was used by CNJ for hauling Ballantine Beer, this is the second of four cars I am doing. Athearn Genesis PC&F 50' RBL with twin 8' Plug Doors, painted with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red and lettered with Herald King Decals. Car was in lumber service assigned to the BN at Eugene, OR. Thanks for looking! Rick J
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Post by riogrande on Jul 19, 2015 6:19:03 GMT -8
Looks like this one from fallen flags Rick, awesome job on the WP box car!
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Post by onequiknova on Jul 19, 2015 7:17:27 GMT -8
Thanks guys. Mike, you're right, the 4x4's were K10's. If you look at the pics from last week, you'll see it's a regular hollow resin casting. The glass is Scotch tape stuck to the outside chrome trim, and trimmed to fit. The inside is then coated with a few coats of Future to get rid of the adhesive.
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Post by mlehman on Jul 19, 2015 10:06:26 GMT -8
I presume the K-10 doesn't have a fully detailed undercarriage, but you never know around here Looks like where the axle is is just a straight bar across the underside. Might be worth considering adding just a drop of CA and letting it hang down by gravity, then spritzing it with kicker at the appropriate differential locations. Center in the rear and on the passenger side on the front for Chevy IIRC (on Fords, the front diff sat under the driver's side.) That should form a pumpkin-sized silhouette and make it stand out nicely as a 4x4 on a multi-decked auto rack. This might require a little experimentation before trying on the model. For the K-series during these years, I think the ride height looks pretty good, maybe up an inch or so in front. Chevy never went with the tall look later seen on many Fords, although the Chevy did eventually sit a little higher later in the 70s before solid axles were dropped on the light duty K-series.
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Post by onequiknova on Jul 19, 2015 10:21:22 GMT -8
There is some basic detail underneath. I started with a Malibu short bed C10, and just stretched and recast the chassis, so technically, it's a two wheel drive truck. I just jacked it up and added the locking hubs to the front. I like the idea of adding the pumpkins front and rear.
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Post by fr8kar on Jul 19, 2015 11:21:56 GMT -8
Wow, John that looks outstanding. I want a full size version! No actual modeling from me this week, but I have been busy in AutoCAD working up a passenger platform canopy system for a friend's model of Wichita Union Station: The model requires the user to supply a roof made from 0.040" sheet styrene. I also made a version without the distinctive engraved "WICHITA" lettering on the nameplate.
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Post by packer on Jul 19, 2015 11:45:56 GMT -8
Thanks guys. Mike, you're right, the 4x4's were K10's. If you look at the pics from last week, you'll see it's a regular hollow resin casting. The glass is Scotch tape stuck to the outside chrome trim, and trimmed to fit. The inside is then coated with a few coats of Future to get rid of the adhesive. I really want to copy what you did, in a way. I'd like to make resin copies of the Atlas Ford Fairmont and Herpa/Con-cor Mustangs (both work for 81). Imma have to try that glass trick out on the several autoracks I have loaded with the old life-like chevy citations. The glass broke on removal for painting.... By chance, does anyone know what years the old life-like ford truck is good for? My gut says late 70s to early 80s; they look different than my neigbor's mid-70s ford trucks. I have been working on something, but my camera isn't working... (and trust me when I say a certain SD40-2 maniac might go ape over it)
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Post by onequiknova on Jul 19, 2015 12:08:33 GMT -8
Thanks guys. Mike, you're right, the 4x4's were K10's. If you look at the pics from last week, you'll see it's a regular hollow resin casting. The glass is Scotch tape stuck to the outside chrome trim, and trimmed to fit. The inside is then coated with a few coats of Future to get rid of the adhesive. I really want to copy what you did, in a way. I'd like to make resin copies of the Atlas Ford Fairmont and Herpa/Con-cor Mustangs (both work for 81). Imma have to try that glass trick out on the several autoracks I have loaded with the old life-like chevy citations. The glass broke on removal for painting.... By chance, does anyone know what years the old life-like ford truck is good for? My gut says late 70s to early 80s; they look different than my neigbor's mid-70s ford trucks. I have been working on something, but my camera isn't working... (and trust me when I say a certain SD40-2 maniac might go ape over it) That basic body style was used from 73-79 with grill changes at least twice. I think the Like Like had a later grill. I can't take credit for the tape trick. Thank Mike Budde for that one. I'd practice on something you don't care about first. The tape is a little difficult tocut. Use a SHARP knife. What you need to do is cut a curve to the bottom of the tape that matches the lower curve of the windshield, then stick it to the model and burnish the edges. Then trim around the windshield trim. The tape looks better if you don't Future it, and if you close off all the windows, you can probably skip that step.
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Post by mlehman on Jul 19, 2015 12:19:55 GMT -8
There is some basic detail underneath. I started with a Malibu short bed C10, and just stretched and recast the chassis, so technically, it's a two wheel drive truck. I just jacked it up and added the locking hubs to the front. I like the idea of adding the pumpkins front and rear. Hey, you've got a good start on a fully detailed undercarriage then...not that I'm insisting I just figured the frozen hanging bump of CA would be easier than applying a nub of plastic, which was my first idea, especially if you have 17 more or more to go This also got me thinking of the transfer case. I think it was visible in a straight-on side view, but much less prominent than the diffs were -- and way less visible than on Fords of that era. I would probably skip that, simply because very little viewable return for the work involved.
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Post by theengineshed on Jul 19, 2015 16:56:03 GMT -8
It was 'pede day here, I was basically surveying a pair of BLI Baldwin Centipedes in demonstrator paint wondering what they needed to actually match the demonstrators. BLI only did the PRR body style, lots of little external changes between those units and the demonstrators, NdeM, and SAL units. Anyway, here's how I fixed my SAL units a few years back, the demonstrators won't take this much effort. The BLI units come with the combined class light and number boards, UGH, so wrong for the Seaboard Air Line. Seaboard Air Line Centipede by Pete Piszczek, on Flickr So the boards were pulled and plugged with a block of styrene. The block was sanded flush to the nose and the yellow stripe from the cab forward repainted with SAL yellow. The number boards were sanded down and flipped left to right. There are holes in the body so that both the new number boards and class lights, light. Seaboard Air Line Centipede by Pete Piszczek, on Flickr Seaboard Air Line Centipede by Pete Piszczek, on Flickr The finished SAL 'pede nest to the factory demonstrator. Luckily, the demonstrators had the PRR style boards, so we won't have to go through with this exercise again... Baldwin Centipedes Demonstrator and Seaboard by Pete Piszczek, on Flickr
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Post by peoriaman on Jul 19, 2015 17:35:44 GMT -8
No modeling here but I did happen to lens a steam engine....
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Post by slowfreight on Jul 19, 2015 18:37:25 GMT -8
I cleaned up all the window openings and some of the rough edges around the bottom. Im probably going to remove the cast on step ladders/stirrups. Will have to figure out a way to make a box for the sanders that sit under the conductors cab. You thinking sand boxes like these? PM me and I'll send you what I have for dimensions. I encourage you to carve off and replace everything you can with freestanding detail. Anything starting with a resin kit is worth making nice. I've been chipping away at these Walthers Comet II cars, trying to turn them into something a little more in keeping with the detail of recent releases. Top is a stock underside, and bottom is progress to date on one of my trailers. I subbed IHP Comet trucks for the originals, and they both roll and look better. He didn't list them on the website, but happily sold me a stack of frames that I equipped with NWSL wheels.
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Post by stevef45 on Jul 19, 2015 20:54:59 GMT -8
I cleaned up all the window openings and some of the rough edges around the bottom. Im probably going to remove the cast on step ladders/stirrups. Will have to figure out a way to make a box for the sanders that sit under the conductors cab. You thinking sand boxes like these? PM me and I'll send you what I have for dimensions. I encourage you to carve off and replace everything you can with freestanding detail. Anything starting with a resin kit is worth making nice. I've been chipping away at these Walthers Comet II cars, trying to turn them into something a little more in keeping with the detail of recent releases. Top is a stock underside, and bottom is progress to date on one of my trailers. I subbed IHP Comet trucks for the originals, and they both roll and look better. He didn't list them on the website, but happily sold me a stack of frames that I equipped with NWSL wheels. PM Sent. AS for the underframe. The good thing with the multilevels is, there really is nothing udner the cars due to the drop bottom for the extra room needed. I've got some good pics showing this. But I will remove more stuff today and i'll show how bad the frame is warped. Looks like a banana. The trucks however I cannot use whatever is out there as these multilevels dont use the same trucks as the other comets, they used regular roller bearings on them for whatever reason.
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Post by atsfan on Jul 20, 2015 16:32:40 GMT -8
USPS finally came through with a delivery that was ordered in June. Uggggh, forwarded mail sucks. Island Model Works NJ Transit Multilevel cab car. The trucks and frame are warped, i've contacted them to see if he can send me replacements. I ain't mad that it came messed up. Its cast resin, i kinda knew it might happen. Sh$t happens. Got a whole new look on life after this whole divorce process. I cleaned up all the window openings and some of the rough edges around the bottom. Im probably going to remove the cast on step ladders/stirrups. Will have to figure out a way to make a box for the sanders that sit under the conductors cab. In real world these cars are terrible for commuters. Cramped. Limited to no baggage storage. Noise travels inside the car. Low ceilings. Uncomfortable seats. In service they feel like this: markdionsbartramstravels.com/understanding-the-indian-railway-system/
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Post by stevef45 on Jul 20, 2015 17:32:03 GMT -8
i've been in them only once, didn't think they were that bad. The problem is, they had to meet a certain design in height due to the hudson and east river tunnels. They were all custom built instead of just buying the multilevel that bombardier already had on the market.
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Post by atsfan on Jul 20, 2015 17:54:32 GMT -8
i've been in them only once, didn't think they were that bad. The problem is, they had to meet a certain design in height due to the hudson and east river tunnels. They were all custom built instead of just buying the multilevel that bombardier already had on the market. Ride them 5pm in winter. Try to store you coat, or bags....... Try and feel your knees after 15 minutes..............
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Post by stevef45 on Jul 20, 2015 17:57:36 GMT -8
No thanks LOLOL
My only complaint is the bucket style seats, shoulda been bench seats like the rest of the comet's. Atleast those were soft.
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Post by drolsen on Jul 20, 2015 19:09:56 GMT -8
John, your pickup is incredible! The only suggestion I would make, taken from military modeling techniques, is to "squash" the tires a little bit at the bottom to show the weight of the car compressing them. I've seen this done simply by filing them down, which isn't as effective, but I believe some modelers will actually warm the plastic tires a bit so they can press down on them and squash them slightly, giving that prototypical bulge on the sides. I haven't tried that myself, and of course, that would be risky to do on a finished model! But your work is incredible anyway!
Rick, I agree with Jim, your WP box car looks great! I'm not sure what it is about that scheme, but the large lettering looks good on the smooth sides of the car.
Dave
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Post by Spikre on Jul 22, 2015 10:46:11 GMT -8
the NJDOT/EL Comet-1 cars weren't bad the 1st few times one rode in them, but then the "BOOMS" started to be noticed,and got worse with time. one got to hopeing the next train would be Stillwell cars,which didn't "BOOM" !! one of the worse spots was Ridgewood Junction with its maze of switches and crossovers.but after awhile any switch along the line would make the cars hit hard and "BOOM" ! made you wish they left EL alone with their Stillwells and Wyatt Earp cars. are those Bi-Levels used on the ex-DL&W Electric lines ? Spikre
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