Tru-Color Paint Problem

[slowfreight]

I've been using a variety of paint brands lately as I fumble through the post-Floquil world.

Tru Color, like every other paint I've sprayed, is never airbrush-ready. I thin it roughly 50/50 with high-grade automotive reducer. It flashes off faster than lacquer thinner, but not quite as fast as acetone. The rest of my recipe is almost identical to 12bridge, using a Paasche H.

The latest challenge I've had with Tru Color is that it does not lay over Scalecoat II. When removing the masking tape, it would pull off chunks of Tru Color with the tape--a problem I've never had. I suspect that if I hit the Scalecoat with automotive adhesion promoter first, that it will bond correctly. I tried it when back-masking my screw-up, and it appeared to work better.

With a much-faster drying time than Scalecoat and the variety of color choices, it's worth working with Tru color. Unfortunately, we really need a good color chip because the computer color chart is nearly worthless.

[oldmuley]

Holy thread revival Batman!

[kentuckysouthernrwy]

Is there a reason that for the most part you’re not using their thinner?

[12bridge]

I always use their thinner for thinning the paint. It is pricey, but it seems to work the best for me. I use straight acetone to cleanup though.

[nebrzephyr]

I haven't sprayed any TCP for a couple years. But when I was using it regularly I thinned it with Acetone and got very good results.

Bob

[slowfreight]

Acetone quality varies from the big box stores, so I only use it to clean. I started using the reducer because I had it on hand and it worked well. Plus, the branded thinners are usually very expensive.

[wp8thsub]

I've been using a lot of Tru Color lately. I started with their thinner for top coats, and plain acetone for primer and cleaning the airbrush. I've transitioned to mostly just using acetone for everything, and haven't noticed a difference in how the paint goes on.

[TBird1958]

I use automotive grade lacquer because it's workable, I've accidently bumped wet models leaving a scar in the paint and have re-shot thinned paint over the mistake, it melts and levels the problem. A gallon of good lacquer is about $60.00, and will last me about 18 months, I airbrush 2-3 times a week.

[markfj]

Today I made a second attempt at spraying Tru Color and the results were much better. The only change I made was to the “medium” sized needle and tip. This helped get more paint on to the model with less air then the “fine” needle and tip. It definitely cut down on the pebbling effect and helped keep a wet edge on each pass. However, I had to keep a smooth steady movement across the model to avoid paint buildup. Two passes over an area was all it took to get coverage. Is that too much paint in too few passes; I don’t know.

I snapped a few photos just after spraying. The finish looks good in the photos, but it still isn’t a mirror finish some claim to get. Two coats were applied and the second coat was really just for touch ups; this paint covers exception well.

In this image you can see how good the paint coverage is and that details like the rivets are still very distinct. When I spray some acrylics, the paint pools around small details and obscures them.


These two shots show some minor pebbling as highlighted by the light glare. Towards the end and bottom of the shell the paint is more smooth and mirror-like. Probably too much air on the passes towards the top.



My paint setup is less than ideal, so I’m going to call this a “win” and move on to decaling when the paint is dry. I do believe that my results will get better with more practice and an internal mix, gravity feed airbrush. It seems that my suction feed airbrush is moving too much air to pull the paint out of the color cup and that is evaporating some of the thinner before it gets to the model surface. That’s just my guess though, I could be wrong.

Thanks, Mark

[TBird1958]

Mark, after you've sprayed your color, the color cup will no doubt have some residual paint left in it even after you pour the excess back into the bottle. Add some clear thinner to the color cup and re-shoot the model, that re heats the paint and will both level and gloss it up.

[csxt8400]

Looks good, Mark. I did some TCP testing a few months ago, but my ventilation system wasn't enough and it put me down for a few days. Excited to get back to trying to find the best psi-thinning ratio again.

What is your go to brand of automotive stuff, Tbird?

[TBird1958]

I used to always use DuPont, however I'm not certain they're still making it, the last two times I've purchased lacquer I've just said that I need "3602", which is formulated to work in an average temperature band, regardless of who the manufacturer is, even the slow drying variant flashes off quickly. I just picked up a fresh gallon about 3 weeks ago, it should last me about 18 months, I spray pretty regularly, 2-4 times a week. I made the mistake of using some hardware store stuff for a few projects, and found it was NOT a good idea, all kinds of bad results just because it was an inferior grade chemical - You get what you pay for!

[nebrzephyr]

Here in Nebraska impossible to find in your typical auto parts stores (O'Reilly, Advanced Auto, NAPA, etc). Probably would need to find a "body shop" distributor.

Bob

[TBird1958]

Apr 18, 2021 5:51:29 GMT -8 nebrzephyr said:

Here in Nebraska impossible to find in your typical auto parts stores (O'Reilly, Advanced Auto, NAPA, etc). Probably would need to find a "body shop" distributor.

Bob

Bob, yes that's right, I'm buying this through an automotive supplier don't waste at those OTC places they'll just give you a blank stare! The gallon cost about $60.00 plus tax. 

[antoniofp45]

Forgive my ignorance, but why was a good topic like this moved into the Crew Lounge??

I thought that the Crew Lounge was for casual conversations about non-model railroad topics or casual "meet, greet, and talk" messages.

[kentuckysouthernrwy]

Apr 18, 2021 14:51:02 GMT -8 antoniofp45 said:

Forgive my ignorance, but why was a good topic like this moved into the Crew Lounge??

I thought that the Crew Lounge was for casual conversations about non-model railroad topics or casual "meet, greet, and talk" messages.

Most likely because it isn’t scale specific.