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Post by steveturner on Sept 10, 2012 23:12:19 GMT -8
Guys i need to bite the bullet and get a puller. Seems like if they are not coming off with out effort without the right tool one is going to mess up the motor!The only thing i have seen is the NWSL puller? How do you adjust for different shaft sizes. Never used one so i am not picturing it too clear.Thanks Steve
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Post by mlehman on Sept 11, 2012 7:01:20 GMT -8
Steve,
The Puller comes with two different sizes of press screws.. This would seem to cover 99% of stuff in HO scale and lots of the smaller O and S stuff. The V plate that comes with it will handle shafts up to 1/8", but you can fabricate a larger capacity one if needed.
It's just a metal box cut from square tubing. The press pin is set on one side, with a U-slot cut in the opposing side. That's where the item being pulled (or pushed) is set in the V plate with the axle protruding through it. You can get something roughly 1/2" deep inside the box and up to 1.5" wide/diameter.
Details from the instructions with mine. I bought it maybe 20 years ago. It doesn't get heavy use, but has always worked when I needed it. NWSL makes good stuff.
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Post by steveturner on Sept 11, 2012 11:39:31 GMT -8
Thanks i think i might give the puller a shot. Flywheels are they mostly press fit or glued ?. Does the glue give with a puller?. You know its not something i am going to use greatly but i think its good to have a puller on hand! Steve
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Post by Deleted on Sept 11, 2012 11:45:35 GMT -8
I believe they are now gluing the flywheels, either that or they are pressed onto the motor for all eternity.
Its not the good old days of pulling a flywheel off an Athearn motor. These flywheels are on the motor REAL GOOD.
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Post by craigz on Sept 11, 2012 12:08:06 GMT -8
Two things immediately come to mind:
- can you actually fit the Puller between the flywheel and motor? It's tight in a lot of cases
- Getting the flywheel back ON the motor without bending the motor shaft is no small feat nowadays.
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Post by calzephyr on Sept 11, 2012 12:23:12 GMT -8
Guys i need to bite the bullet and get a puller. Seems like if they are not coming off with out effort without the right tool one is going to mess up the motor!The only thing i have seen is the NWSL puller? How do you adjust for different shaft sizes. Never used one so i am not picturing it too clear.Thanks Steve I have one of the NWSL pullers. It has a slot which allows most of the smaller shafts to slip into the unit. It seems to work very well overall. Larry |
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Post by steveturner on Sept 11, 2012 14:21:44 GMT -8
Whats nuts is on many motors you have to remove flywheels to remove motor sadle or sadle 1/2s. Broken sadle your in a bind new motor no sadles need to use old your in a bind.! Steve....................i like the hand on tight flywheels with a spot og glue if needed. Yes you certainly could wreck a motor. Atlas got stuck with a bunch of S unit open frame motors because folks couldnt get the old fly wheels off and on to new motor...........now the motor comes wih them on! Steve
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Post by mlehman on Sept 11, 2012 22:12:24 GMT -8
Unless there's a length of shaft that roughly 1/4" long between a motor and flywheel,. then NWSL's The Puller is probably not going to work. The wall of the tubing it's made of is about 3/16" thick, so you have to have that much space, plus a little more to use The Puller in this application.
What I think you need for flywheels would be one of those two- or three-jaw pullers that have claws to slip in behind the flywheel. Not sure if they make tiny ones for our purposes, but these are common in automotive applications.
And, yeah, flywheels can be a bear, depending on the original install method. Worth trying, but you may end up having replace parts anyway.
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Post by calzephyr on Sept 13, 2012 8:57:51 GMT -8
Unless there's a length of shaft that roughly 1/4" long between a motor and flywheel,. then NWSL's The Puller is probably not going to work. The wall of the tubing it's made of is about 3/16" thick, so you have to have that much space, plus a little more to use The Puller in this application. What I think you need for flywheels would be one of those two- or three-jaw pullers that have claws to slip in behind the flywheel. Not sure if they make tiny ones for our purposes, but these are common in automotive applications. And, yeah, flywheels can be a bear, depending on the original install method. Worth trying, but you may end up having replace parts anyway. That is true, there must be space between the motor and flywheel to allow the puller to slip over the shaft. I have one of the claw types also for auto use as you mentioned, but it is way too large to use as the claws are too thick to fit between the motor and flywheel application. Larry |
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Post by el3637 on Sept 13, 2012 12:21:37 GMT -8
The NWSL puller indeed has a very thick fork and if there's not enough room between the flywheel and the motor you can't use it. Add to that the motors that have wraparound plastic cradles - Atlas, Genesis/Roco, Kato, etc - forget it. You have to chop the cradle up (which I've done many time) just to re-use the motor and then the puller still won't fit in the slot.
The more crude methods like trying to tap it out by clamping the FW in a vise and then tapping down on the shaft don't seem to work very well. And even so there's the issue of re-installing the flywheels. I found out the hard way that newer Kato motors don't have a hardened shaft. I tried to press the FW in place in a vise and the shaft bent over like a wet noodle. $20 in the trash can.
Andy
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