Comparing PanPastels to Bragdon powders

[valenciajim]

Every Sunday, I see outstanding models, many of which have outstanding weathering. I noticed that some modelers use the Bragdon Powders while others use Pan Pastels. I was wondering which is preferred and why. I have used both, but feel that I have mastered neither one. What is your preferred method of applying the powders? Has anyone tried to apply the powders to a layer of Dullcoat that is still wet? If so, how has this worked?

[grahamline]

Really? No replies?

I'm using soft brushes to apply both, either inexpensive camel hairs or the cosmetic brushes, sized for the application. I keep these separate from the painting & dusting brushes.

I have not really compared Pan Pastels and Bragdon powders side by side. The PP are available in a very wide range of shades and I can pick them up at a local Dick Blick art supply store. The Bragdon powders are intermittently available at local hobby supplies -- we have three and yes, I appreciate the convenience after spending a decade or so with the nearest train store 180 miles away.

I start by applying light amounts over a matte surface and build it up to the density desired, using the brush to work the powder onto the surface. PP are pretty easy to blend right on the model or in a palette; haven't tried this with Bragdon because the color tones I have are pretty widely separated. The biggest problems seem to result from applying too much at a time. Have not tried applying it over a 'wet' surface.

When I get the effect wanted, structures are left alone. Freight cars that will get a fair amount of finger contact get just enough matte finish to cover. Testors Dullcote and Tamiya matte work well. I used Krylon 1311 Matte Finish in the past but people say the formula changed and it's too aggressive now.

I keep a window open and a fan running to avoid inhaling the dust. Getting your face right close to the work is not a good idea.

[fr8kar]

I had to go check to see which brand I had!

So I've been using Bragdon powders for a few years now. Usually I put them on with an old brush that's been damaged and retired from painting, a quarter inch wide chisel brush with short bristles that have broken about half their original length. It's good because it loads a lot of powder but the bristles are short enough I can work the powders with pretty good precision. The other brush I use is a soft 3/4" wide brush with long soft bristles. It's great for getting that dark brake shoe dust all over the underbody, ends and lower sides of cars. Every car I weather gets Tamiya flat or Testors Dullcote after I finish, and both tend to mute the effect of chalks. The Bragdon powders seem to be less affected by the clear coat, but the effect is still diminished.

I paint all my wheels and couplers Burnt Umber using a no. 2 round brush. While the paint is still wet, I'll sprinkle some rust colored powders on the parts and let them dry. After the paint dries I go back with the weathering chisel brush and put more powders on. I have tried the powder in wet dullcoat method, and it works OK, but it's not a technique I go to very often.