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Post by ChessieFan1978 on May 17, 2020 6:59:16 GMT -8
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Post by slowfreight on May 17, 2020 7:11:01 GMT -8
While it still needs weathering, I've finished building my latest DW Evans kitbash--this time an IC car. It took some real creativity in the decal department. The Dan Kohlberg set for Mainline of Mid-America didn't have some of the data and detail that I needed. Most notably, I had to duplicate the DF-2 lettering, and the best I could find in my inventory meant building the D out of pieces from a P and a U in a UPFE set. Tedious, but worth it. The patch-out and restencil was a pain, but also worth it. The black is also done with decals. In total, I think I counted 7 different sets of decals used. The completed car. My IC/ICG fleet is coming together. Gotta get motivated to finish weathering... Some interesting things I learned is that the ICG car, with its cushion underframe, was rebuilt from a plug door box car built with high-mount brake wheel--but I'm not sure if it had a roofwalk as delivered. Meanwhile the IC car was delivered new as a rigid-underframe sliding door car with the DF load restraints. So while they look similar, very different histories and ultimately in the same service. I have now completed 4 of my 5 Dan Kohlberg cars. I'm taking a break, and then will get back on track to find a model for the last set. Currently pondering how to build a Centralia car to round things out. With that project winding down, I was digging through old boxes and found an accidental project. I had an old first-run Blue Box SD40-2 with bad plastic. The mounting lugs had shattered, for one. I'd had it since I was a kid, and I was torn between keeping it and selling it--except no one would want it in that shape. So I took the plunge to attach the shell with body-mount couplers, which led to plugging the pilot gap. The fans were horrid, and I found a full set from a P2K SD45. One thing led to another and I made it a scrap-box upgrade project. It may yet get a decoder, but it actually turned out pretty well. And lastly, I stumbled across an equally old model...a vintage Walthers 65' tank car that I upgraded with wire grabs and railings back in high school. After working with a number of these 80s- and 90s-era models, it's interesting to see where they compare favorably to modern offerings and where they fall short. We have come an incredibly long way in this hobby when 25-year-old models can still be upgraded to run alongside the latest uber-detailed releases.
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Post by onequiknova on May 17, 2020 7:20:21 GMT -8
I made some progress on my BN GP39E rebuild. I got the pilots rebuilt with scale buffers and detailed. I rebuilt the step wells with Cannon steps, and added some Plano cab steps and dynamic hatch. I also rebuilt the conductor side clean air room and added the electrical cabinet filter. I still need to rework the engineer side. I'm currently fumbling my way through bending new handrails. I'm beginning to remember why I like building E units so much.
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Post by fr8kar on May 17, 2020 7:56:54 GMT -8
Dang, fellas! You guys are crushing it this week. I can relate to building the "D" out of separate decals. I've had to do that a few times and nobody ever notices, but I know. Are those photoetched stanchions on that GP39E? I feel your pain when it comes to bending handrails. I've got a pile of Utah Pacific stanchions and five C30-7s staring back at me. I hate to break it to those models, but it's not happening this month. I dug up an old fossil of a project this week, an Athearn high cube auto parts boxcar. I carved off the door bars, grabs and railings and replaced them with styrene rod for the door bars and wire for the grabs. Once the weather clears up I'll shoot some magenta and silver on this car to letter it for DT&I. I have another Athearn 86' boxcar to upgrade like this, but it's an 8 door model, so double the carving fun. Might be a project for the away from home terminal.
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Post by slowfreight on May 17, 2020 8:04:58 GMT -8
I made some progress on my BN GP39E rebuild. I got the pilots rebuilt with scale buffers and detailed. I rebuilt the step wells with Cannon steps, and added some Plano cab steps and dynamic hatch. I also rebuilt the conductor side clean air room and added the electrical cabinet filter. I still need to rework the engineer side. I'm currently fumbling my way through bending new handrails. I'm beginning to remember why I like building E units so much. I never get tired of working with the P2K GP30 shell, and it seems there's always something else that can be upgraded on it. And I hear you on handrails...worse to me than cleaning up resin cast kits. But I still don't have the nerve to break into my E unit projects, despite having a stack of Highliner donor shells. Don't forget to post that unit on dieseldetailer.
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Post by riogrande on May 17, 2020 8:07:09 GMT -8
Nice auto parts boxcar. Looks Genesis level!
I'd love to see a HQ model of these someday in the not too distant future.
Most of the DTI auto parts 86' boxcars crossing the Rockies seemed to be light blue or green.
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Post by onequiknova on May 17, 2020 8:08:24 GMT -8
Yes, they are KV Models photo etched stanchions. First time using them. My only complaint is the small mounting pins. I'd prefer something longer, and maybe a couple thousands wider so it fits a little tighter into a #80 hole. The stanchions flopping around because they won't stay put while laying out my bends was frustrating.
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Post by fr8kar on May 17, 2020 8:29:04 GMT -8
Yes, they are KV Models photo etched stanchions. First time using them. My only complaint is the small mounting pins. I'd prefer something longer, and maybe a couple thousands wider so it fits a little tighter into a #80 hole. The stanchions flopping around because they won't stay put while laying out my bends was frustrating. How hard was it to bend the tops over consistently? Did you have a tool for that?
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Post by onequiknova on May 17, 2020 9:05:45 GMT -8
Yes, they are KV Models photo etched stanchions. First time using them. My only complaint is the small mounting pins. I'd prefer something longer, and maybe a couple thousands wider so it fits a little tighter into a #80 hole. The stanchions flopping around because they won't stay put while laying out my bends was frustrating. How hard was it to bend the tops over consistently? Did you have a tool for that? It's very easy actually. I fashioned a simple tool to hold things in place during the folding. The "fingers" of the tool hold down a scrap piece of .015" phosphorus bronze wire tightly down on the stanchion, and the notch allows me to get under the flap with a chisel blade. It helps to slightly bend the flap with plyers before hand to aid in getting under it with the chisel. Once the flap is brought up around 90°, I use a jeweler's screwdriver to finish the bend. Lastly I tighten the fold up with a pair of smooth jaw duck bill pliers. Now you can slide the stanchion off the scrap wire, bend the mounting pin, and set aside to install latter. They will slide on like the old Blue Box stanchions, EXCEPT they won't slide over the bends in the handrails, so the bending of the handrails has to be done with the stanchions in place. Edit: I didn't want to cut an unneeded stanchion from the fret, but there is a step in the stanchion to locate the wire so you end up with consistent height stanchions. The tool just insures it stays bottomed out in the step. When trying it free hand, the wire kept popping out of the step. The process goes quickly, and I'd rather do it than clean up a bunch of brass castings or core out plastic stachions.
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Post by TBird1958 on May 17, 2020 9:37:50 GMT -8
GP-40 follies Pt.II Finished #3059 and I think it came out "okay" not great. I used a Cannon cab and the stock short hood and sub base this proved to be a bit low where it met the top of the long hood so I shimmed up with some .020 strip as a last resort. The use of the Athearn 3600 Gal. tank worked well and I'm happy with that aspect of the project. Version two will likely utilize a Kato cab and Athrean short hood and if needed a new sub base. Second unit started, strip stock has been added to the chassis and the short hood and cab section removed from the long hood. I've cut all the mounting tabs back and glued the long hood to the walkway.
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Post by nsc39d8 on May 17, 2020 9:45:25 GMT -8
Thanks for the photos showing the KV Models stanchions. I just purchased a bunch as they have done the ones for the SD50/60's that I need. Send them a message about the mounting pins, very cooperative guy.
He has done some GE stanchions as well I am going to try.
Great work this week guys!
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Post by cr9617 on May 17, 2020 10:18:41 GMT -8
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on May 17, 2020 10:33:23 GMT -8
I wish KV Models or someone else would offer PRE-BENT wire for all the models they offer those stanchions for. I've tried several times to bend my own and always come up looking like crap. It's something I'm not very good at.
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Post by onequiknova on May 17, 2020 10:36:23 GMT -8
SlowFreight's BB SD40-2 reminded me of my stalled BN SD40-2 project from 16 or so years ago. I started with three of the newly upgraded, factory painted BB SD40-2's. This was before they were further upgraded with plastic fuel tanks and separate noses etc. A couple weeks ago I dug one of them out from its 16 year slumber, fixed some broken details and gave it some light weathering. It's no Scaletrains, but I'll hold onto it. (I'll have to fix that number board.) Maybe I'll finish the other two one of these years.
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Post by dti406 on May 17, 2020 10:47:49 GMT -8
I managed to get some stuff done this week. This is McKeen Evans/ACF Boxcar kit that I extensively modified based on a conversation I had on the Modern Freight Cars List regarding the lack of a model for a new decal that Mask Island Decals did. I did several modifications to the McKeen kit, including cutting out the poorly done underframe and replacing it with a Details West Hydrocushion Underframe as the protoptype had that type of underframe. Substituted a Brachline Diagonal Panel Roof for the poorly executed one on the McKeen kit, added the extra rodding to the plug doors as the prototype all had 4 rods on each door and added Moloco End of Car Coupler extensions as they are the best on the market. Car was painted with Scalecoat II Armour Yellow, Boxcar Red and Silver Paints and lettered with Mask Island Decals. The car was one of 20 in this class and was assigned to the Campbell Soup Plant as noted by the 1090 code above the car number. Next up a Walthers 65' Thrall Gondola kit, made the same modifications to the kit that the C&NW did to a varied bunch of Thrall, Pullman Standard and Magor gons, adding the high ends to 40 of these cars. Car was painted with Scalecoat II CNW Green and lettered with Herald King Decals. I sort of made up where all the lettering goes as there are no pictures of the Thrall car I could find, just the Pullman Standard car and it has a different rib pattern. Car was used in transporting crushed auto bodies for recycling. Since I did the new Campbell's Soup car, I have a picture of some DT&I GP38-2's with a couple of the predecessor 40' XLI boxcars that were also used in Campbell's Soup service along with servicing the Libby's plant in Leipsic, OH. Thanks for looking! Rick Jesionowski
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Post by slowfreight on May 17, 2020 11:54:46 GMT -8
A few from a small I diorama I just finished. Fantastic modeling. Makes my Conrail unit look naked without all that scenery.
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Post by wp8thsub on May 17, 2020 15:17:55 GMT -8
DSC03576 by wp8thsub, on Flickr I just finished a new industry, a flour mill based on the former Sperry (then General Mills, Peavey, Cereal Food Processors, and now Grain Craft) facility in Ogden, UT. <https://www.google.com/maps/@41.210386,-111.9821469,3a,75y,254.98h,96.31t/data=!3m7!1e1!3m5!1sfJ0BznJSnMdLbG9kZleYEA!2e0!6s%2F%2Fgeo3.ggpht.com%2Fcbk%3Fpanoid%3DfJ0BznJSnMdLbG9kZleYEA%26output%3Dthumbnail%26cb_client%3Dmaps_sv.tactile.gps%26thumb%3D2%26w%3D203%26h%3D100%26yaw%3D281.13358%26pitch%3D0%26thumbfov%3D100!7i16384!8i8192> I selectively reduced the structures to fit my space, and left off some of the most recent changes (including the new truck loader, and enclosed railcar loading shed that were added only in the last few years). The model was almost entirely scratchbuilt from styrene, with a few modified commercial parts. It's ready for me to start completing the scene around it.
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Post by riogrande on May 17, 2020 16:41:27 GMT -8
Rob, nice flour Mill!
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Post by Deleted on May 17, 2020 17:28:36 GMT -8
WOW! Tons of exciting stuff this week. Way to go guys!
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Post by Colin 't Hart on May 17, 2020 23:10:37 GMT -8
I dug up an old fossil of a project this week, an Athearn high cube auto parts boxcar. I carved off the door bars, grabs and railings and replaced them with styrene rod for the door bars and wire for the grabs. Once the weather clears up I'll shoot some magenta and silver on this car to letter it for DT&I. I have another Athearn 86' boxcar to upgrade like this, but it's an 8 door model, so double the carving fun. Might be a project for the away from home terminal. Excellent work on those doors, Ryan!! Any reason why you are going to all that trouble and then not replacing the end platforms with something like these from Plano? www.planomodelproducts.com/134.htm
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Post by fr8kar on May 18, 2020 0:47:02 GMT -8
Excellent work on those doors, Ryan!! Any reason why you are going to all that trouble and then not replacing the end platforms with something like these from Plano? www.planomodelproducts.com/134.htmThanks, Colin. I did the majority of the carving using a modified X-acto chisel blade, which could be pretty difficult to control. The grabs on the ends were the first thing I attacked and it went well for the most part. But once I got to the first door I found I was causing a lot of scarring and I cut off some details I intended to keep. So I put these models down for a long time and didn't think about them. A few months ago the subject of carving off cast on details came up again and Dave Olson left this comment: atlasrescueforum.proboards.com/post/132912That thread made me think about these auto parts boxcars so I bought the Mikisyo "Power Grip" carving chisels Dave described. They made removing the door bars much easier than the X-acto chisel. In fact I think I spent less time on the last three doors with the Mikisyo chisels than I did on the first one with the X-acto chisel. Anyway, I think the answer is I didn't even see the crossover platforms. It had been so long ago and in my mind I already addressed the ends. I think I can probably carve them off easily now, though. I have some Plano Apex sheet stock that I can cut to fit using the Walthers part as a guide.
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Post by Colin 't Hart on May 18, 2020 1:39:42 GMT -8
craigz has been singing the praises of the Hasegawa 3mm modeling chisel. I really need to get myself either that or the Mikisyo one you mention. For removing details on flat surfaces I've had good luck with an X-acto chisel blade and some luck with the cumbersome Micro-Mark modeling chisel, but with these recommendations from Craig, Dave, and yourself I need to invest in one of these Japanese ones, I think. Hopefully it'll let me clean up some ends that I started on...
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Post by fr8kar on May 18, 2020 4:28:08 GMT -8
It's such a huge difference. I can see using the X-acto chisel for a thin plunge cut or to make a mark but that's about it. I'll use the Japanese chisels to do everything else.
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Post by drolsen on May 18, 2020 10:46:46 GMT -8
Ryan, the Athearn 86' boxcar looks great! I started an Athearn car like that a few years ago, but I got distracted by other projects (and work), as usual. I'm afraid that if I pick it up again, someone will immediately (hopefully) release a new model after I've spent a couple weekends carving off details!
I'm glad the chisel ideas have worked out well. I almost never touch my Xacto blades anymore (with the limited time I've spent modeling). I've been working on cleaning up a Walthers cyrogenic reefer for the full grab iron and ExactRail ladder treatment. I also picked up a few sets of ExactRail door locking parts to see if they'll fit the Walthers model. Hopefully I can make some progress on this one.
Great stuff, as usual, everyone!
Dave
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Post by valenciajim on May 18, 2020 11:27:35 GMT -8
Unfortunately, the Mikisyo 1.5 mm chisel is out of stock at Amazon and they don't know when it will be restocked. I bought one of the 3 mm chisels.
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Post by drolsen on May 18, 2020 16:40:39 GMT -8
Jim, I’ve actually found that I use the 3mm chisel for about 90% of my carving. I think it’s because the wider blade makes it more stable when pressing it against the adjacent surface to shave off the raised molded details. I tend to accidentally gouge the surrounding surface more often with the narrower 1.5mm chisel because it’s very sharp but not quite as stable.
Dave
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Post by craigz on May 19, 2020 4:50:14 GMT -8
Jim, I’ve actually found that I use the 3mm chisel for about 90% of my carving. I think it’s because the wider blade makes it more stable when pressing it against the adjacent surface to shave off the raised molded details. I tend to accidentally gouge the surrounding surface more often with the narrower 1.5mm chisel because it’s very sharp but not quite as stable. Dave Dave's completely with my experience. I bought three of the Hasegawa chisels - a 3mm flat, 1mmm flat, and a round 1mm. The 3mm is my go-to. Extremely controllable, lifts curls of plastic like they're being cut from chocolate, an delightful tool to use. And to my surprise the round is my second - actually easier to shave off small details from tight places. When I build my most recent Highliners kit, it was of a later F7 with no rear overhang. Rather than use my UMM saw, I used the 3mm Hasegawa tool. With about a dozen passes the overhang was gone and the finish required ZERO sanding touch up. None. I also fitted the KV Models U boat conversion grills to a model for a friend. The first grill I drilled out and filed square. The other nine small grills I removed with the Hasegawa chisel. Easier and faster than drilling/sanding. I also bought a couple of ones that were lower priced things from China - not even close in quality. They're in the bottom of my drawer now - don't waste your money on them. I rarely reach for a #17 blade now. I'd also bought a box of 50 chisel blade scalpel blades. After getting the Hasegawa tools, the scalpel blades are gathering dust. The Hasegawa tools are fantastic.
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Post by nsc39d8 on May 19, 2020 7:20:58 GMT -8
Craig,
How about a few pictures and how to on removing the U boat grilles. I want to use the KV parts for some U33C's and C30-7's.
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Post by riogrande on May 19, 2020 8:49:32 GMT -8
actually easier to shave off small details from tight places. When I build my most recent Highliners kit, it was of a later F7 with no rear overhang. Rather than use my UMM saw, I used the 3mm Hasegawa tool. With about a dozen passes the overhang was gone and the finish required ZERO sanding touch up. The Hasegawa tools are fantastic. Back in the 80's, even before Stewart release their F units, I picked up some undec blue box Athearn F7 shells and began modifying them toward making a set of Rio Grande Zephyr F9's. The F9's didn't have a roof overhand so I used an Xacto chisel blade, having never hear of the Japanese chisels - maybe they didn't exist back then? Being careful, I was able to remove the overhangs quite well surprisingly with little cleanup. I also used my Dremel to grind the sides off of a chisel blade to create a narrow chisel to remove smaller details. Since the F7A shell had steam generator details I had so removed them while preserving the rivets around the sides of the hatch. I guess necessity back then, was the mother of invention. I had gotten wire grabs over the nose, Farr air grills, spark arrestors for the roof, even created my own F9 cooling tubes. But the difficulty I ran into was moving the front side portals back and replacing the side vents with vertical slit lourvers. The project sat for a few years and then Stewart came out with their F9A and I ended up selling the 3 units as a project.
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Post by valenciajim on May 19, 2020 12:08:22 GMT -8
Thanks for the tip about the 3 mm chisel. I can't wait for mine to come in the mail.
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