Post by stevewagner on May 31, 2020 13:05:13 GMT -8
Tim, I really like your CB&Q composite hopper. It certainly matches the photo of the full-sized car very nicely. How did you build your model? I can see that it doesn't quite match Accurail's kit, which is also less finely detailed. Did you start with a Proto kit, perhaps. I don't have one of their cars handy for comparison.
I hope to do something similar to your IC flatcar with John Deere tractors, but I'll use a Proto kit for a less lengthy flat and a somewhat older type of tractor..
Managed to complete a couple of projects this week:
Branchline 40' ACF 1944 AAR Boxcar kit, removed the rivits as the prototype was a welded side car. Added A-line sill steps in place of the plastic ones of the kit. Painted with Scalecoat II Boxcar Red and lettered with Smokebox Graphics decals. The Ann Arbor was spun off the Wabash in the 1964 Wabash, NKP and N&W merger and was re-acquired by the DT&I at that time. This car in general service was repainted in 1965 and the Ann Arbor Pennant was replaced with the DT&I compass.
Tangent Scale Models PS2 4000CF Covered Hopper Kit, painted with Scalecoat II UP Hopper Car Gray and lettered with Oddballs Decals. Car was in Coke Breeze service on the L&N, Coke Breeze was the left over fines from the Coking Process and these fines were used in Cathodic Protection at various sites. The DT&I could have received these cars via their Cincinnati connection with the L&N as the company I worked for did a lot of Cathodic Protection at McClouth Steel in Detroit and was a DT&I customer.
Another old layout shot from the Strongsville Club layout, Stewart C628 and C630 hauling a string of 36 G39 Ore Jimmies, reminiscent of the trains leaving Whiskey Island in Cleveland heading to Pittsburgh.
Thanks for looking!
Rule 1: This is my railroad. Rule 2: I make the rules. Rule 3: Illuminating discussion of prototype history, equipment and operating practices is always welcome,but in the event of visitor-perceived anacronisms, detail descrepancies or operating errors, consult RULE 1!
Post by timvanmersbergen on May 31, 2020 13:36:44 GMT -8
Tim, I really like your CB&Q composite hopper. It certainly matches the photo of the full-sized car very nicely. How did you build your model? I can see that it doesn't quite match Accurail's kit, which is also less finely detailed. Did you start with a Proto kit, perhaps.
Thank you Steve. Yes, the hopper is an old Proto 2000. Ironically it was decorated for an as-delivered CB&Q. I never put it in service as I learned that scheme would be rather rare for my 1969 era. I was browsing photos to kill time and found the prototype and the inspiration I needed. Took off the old lettering and repainted.
This was the result of a half-hour fooling around with some new weathering products from AK Interactive and also from Vallejo. AK Interactive is another of those military modeler companies that have extensive lines of usable modeling materials. AKI specializes in 1:35 armor and some products don't scale down to 1:87 every well. Both AKI and Vallejo have far more weathering paints and materials than any railroad model company. Between the two and their subsidiaries probably hundreds of weathering paints and materials. You have to think out of the box since none of these military modeling (Also ships, aircraft and cars) companies (many more than the two I've mentioned) labels things in US railroad modeler language.
This is an out of the bag Walthers container that I used to test some of my new stuff. Notably, two sets of weathering pencils: Dirt & Marks and Chipping & Aging. There are several more sets and many individual pencils. These pencils are like artist's watercolor pencils. The "lead" is soluble in water. You can draw on the model and use a brush of water to work them. Or you can dip the point in water, wait a few moments, and smear on the paint. This container uses several colors and both techniques. All but unnoticeable in the photo is a dab of Vallejo Mud and Grass on the lower-left corner. There are also several Vallejo wash colors applied along with some CMK pigment. After things were dry I used a wet eyeshadow applicator and took come off. Also a bit of very fine sandpaper to clean the ribs a bit.
At this stage, everything can be washed off which was my intention. But, those darned prototype photos reared their ugly heads again. This container is pretty typical of an abused container and nowhere as bad as many. So it remains unwashed for the time being. The camera shows only the side because the rest of the container is untouched.
Last Edit: May 31, 2020 17:37:30 GMT -8 by Christian: I love to deit spilling!