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Post by TBird1958 on Jul 19, 2020 8:04:40 GMT -8
I haven't done one of these in awhile, been busy with lots of small not note worthy projects, here's something a bit out of the ordinary for me as I'm really an EMD fan. I picked this BLI RSD15 up at a swap meet for $40.00 it was painted for SP, I've sanded the lettering and paint edges down with 2000 grit wet/dry automotive paper, primed gray, I shot the ends, stripe locations and sill TCP ATSF yellow, masked and sprayed TCP ATSF blue (what a beautiful color!) , underframe and trucks are black. It'll get decaled for the Utah Rwy, I'll add a simple Digitrax decoder to replace the janky BLI stuff. I have a second one to do in the blue/yellow warbonnet colors, then the search will be on for a proper RSD12 to fill out the consist.  Here's a couple oldies too, Happy Sunday Mark Hills    |
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Post by riogrande on Jul 19, 2020 8:16:00 GMT -8
Cool project on the Utah RSD15! A couple years ago I picked up 2 of the BLI RSD15's painted in the Utah ex-ATSF scheme. Does anyone make an RSD12? I haven't looked for one of those yet.
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Post by TBird1958 on Jul 19, 2020 9:16:37 GMT -8
Cool project on the Utah RSD15! A couple years ago I picked up 2 of the BLI RSD15's painted in the Utah ex-ATSF scheme. Does anyone make an RSD12? I haven't looked for one of those yet. The only two I'm aware of are the hopelessly bad Atlas one and Overland, if I can find another Broadway '15 at a reasonable price I may try to make one. |
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Post by mountaingoatgreg on Jul 19, 2020 10:50:26 GMT -8
Looks like an interesting project.
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sd50f
Full Member
Posts: 101
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Post by sd50f on Jul 19, 2020 16:25:52 GMT -8
The Death and Rebirth of CN 5430When I was a young man growing up in Toronto, I owned a book about Canadian railroading. Inside that book, I saw my first photograph of the brand new CN SD50F #5430 (hence, my name on this forum) and thought it was the most amazing locomotive. I had to have one. George's Trains had one, in brass, that cost way more than I had. So, I went about it a little differently. I went to a swap meet, picked up an Athearn SD40T-2 for $20 and a pile of styrene, some Precision Scale Q-Fans, and a few other detail parts. I was going to have my Draper Taper. Then I went to university, and the locomotive sat in a box at my parent's house. A few years later, it showed up at my house, and I was excited to finish the project and paint it. Excited...until I placed it down in a box with my SD40-2Ws to get prepared for paint when a water bottle fell from my workbench and went right into the box. One of the SD40-2W shells snapped right behind the cab and the Railflyer steps were squished. Both of those problems were repairable. Unfortunately, the poor Draper Taper was a complete write off other than the chassis and some detail parts. New curse words may have been were invented that day. Around that time, CN was retiring SD50F units and then started purchasing the SD60 locomotive from the used market. It just so happened that another modeler in Canada had a P2K SD60 shell in C&NW paint for sale. Needless to say, I picked it up, put it into the paint stripper, and then brought the beast below into the world. And yes, it kept the number that was meant for the original unit. It's unpowered at the moment, there's some painting and detailing on the shell and the chassis that needs to be completed, but it took a LONG time for me to get from the beginning of this project to this point. 
By the way, I love seeing everyone's work here every weekend. It helps motivate me to get things going. Timothy Dineen
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Post by fr8kar on Jul 19, 2020 17:40:40 GMT -8
The Death and Rebirth of CN 5430When I was a young man growing up in Toronto, I owned a book about Canadian railroading. Inside that book, I saw my first photograph of the brand new CN SD50F #5430 (hence, my name on this forum) and thought it was the most amazing locomotive. I had to have one. George's Trains had one, in brass, that cost way more than I had. So, I went about it a little differently. I went to a swap meet, picked up an Athearn SD40T-2 for $20 and a pile of styrene, some Precision Scale Q-Fans, and a few other detail parts. I was going to have my Draper Taper. Then I went to university, and the locomotive sat in a box at my parent's house. A few years later, it showed up at my house, and I was excited to finish the project and paint it. Excited...until I placed it down in a box with my SD40-2Ws to get prepared for paint when a water bottle fell from my workbench and went right into the box. One of the SD40-2W shells snapped right behind the cab and the Railflyer steps were squished. Both of those problems were repairable. Unfortunately, the poor Draper Taper was a complete write off other than the chassis and some detail parts. New curse words may have been were invented that day. Around that time, CN was retiring SD50F units and then started purchasing the SD60 locomotive from the used market. It just so happened that another modeler in Canada had a P2K SD60 shell in C&NW paint for sale. Needless to say, I picked it up, put it into the paint stripper, and then brought the beast below into the world. And yes, it kept the number that was meant for the original unit. It's unpowered at the moment, there's some painting and detailing on the shell and the chassis that needs to be completed, but it took a LONG time for me to get from the beginning of this project to this point.
By the way, I love seeing everyone's work here every weekend. It helps motivate me to get things going. Timothy Dineen Kudos to you Timothy for continuing to push forward and finish the project. It turned out very nice. I'm sure I'm not alone in wanting to see it from a few more angles.  |
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Post by fr8kar on Jul 19, 2020 17:43:53 GMT -8
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Jul 19, 2020 18:54:35 GMT -8
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Post by Artur on Jul 19, 2020 19:04:12 GMT -8
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jako
Junior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by jako on Jul 20, 2020 0:11:54 GMT -8
Moin,
A Tichy Train 40' Flatcar for NW MOW Service
Greetings Sven |
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ADK
Junior Member
Posts: 77
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Post by ADK on Jul 20, 2020 8:01:43 GMT -8
Finished up the CSX SD35 I have been working on. The blue is faded by request to match photos. 3D printed sergent coupler on the front, although it is a little too long.  on Flickr |
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Post by valenciajim on Jul 20, 2020 9:20:31 GMT -8
Moin, A Tichy Train 40' Flatcar for NW MOW Service Greetings Sven I am really glad to see this picture because I just ordered one of these from Walthers and I was wondering how they would look when completed. |
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Post by slowfreight on Jul 20, 2020 12:10:47 GMT -8
Nice work, everyone. SD50f, I cringe reading your story but nice save in the end. Shows it's worth keeping some of these bits in inventory for that "someday."
Fr8kar, try using a black sharpie around the window gaskets on your cab. It gives a much sharper color separation and the blue-black ink looks a little more like rubber. BTW, how did you do the patches? Guessing it wasn't freehand but I noticed the fuzzy edges.
Artur, your work always looks perfect in the photos, and the camera is always the worst critic.
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Post by fr8kar on Jul 20, 2020 15:06:51 GMT -8
Fr8kar, try using a black sharpie around the window gaskets on your cab. It gives a much sharper color separation and the blue-black ink looks a little more like rubber. BTW, how did you do the patches? Guessing it wasn't freehand but I noticed the fuzzy edges. Thanks! That really seemed to help. There's not much I can do to get up next to the numberboard with the Sharpie, but it really cleaned up the edges. The patches are just me dialing in my el cheapo Harbor Freight airbrush as tight as possible (not very tight) and trying to mimic the patterns in the prototype photos. I couldn't get them as small as I wanted, but this model is full of compromises so it is what it is. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Jul 20, 2020 15:41:14 GMT -8
A Tichy Train 40' Flatcar for NW MOW Service I really like your weathering! May I see photos of the under frame? |
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Post by slowfreight on Jul 20, 2020 20:22:30 GMT -8
Fr8kar, try using a black sharpie around the window gaskets on your cab. It gives a much sharper color separation and the blue-black ink looks a little more like rubber. BTW, how did you do the patches? Guessing it wasn't freehand but I noticed the fuzzy edges. Thanks! That really seemed to help. There's not much I can do to get up next to the numberboard with the Sharpie, but it really cleaned up the edges. The patches are just me dialing in my el cheapo Harbor Freight airbrush as tight as possible (not very tight) and trying to mimic the patterns in the prototype photos. I couldn't get them as small as I wanted, but this model is full of compromises so it is what it is. Your version of compromise is a lot different from most humans' version of compromise... If you're game, an old painter's trick for fuzzy edges is to use a round dowel as your mask. Maybe a 1/8" styrene rod, assembled in a box and taped onto the side, and then you spray directly at it and the curved edge lets underspray in to make a feathered edge. |
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Post by tcwright973 on Jul 21, 2020 5:39:50 GMT -8
TBird1958
Really like that pipe load. Very nice.
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jako
Junior Member
Posts: 72
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Post by jako on Jul 21, 2020 21:37:07 GMT -8
A Tichy Train 40' Flatcar for NW MOW Service I really like your weathering! May I see photos of the under frame? Howdy, Here you go, a picture of the under frame
Greetings Sven
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Post by csxt8400 on Jul 24, 2020 8:41:22 GMT -8
Some unique locomotives on display. That SD38-2 is cobbled together from a few engines that aren't exactly cheap.
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Post by thunderhawk on Jul 25, 2020 11:40:25 GMT -8
Thanks! That really seemed to help. There's not much I can do to get up next to the numberboard with the Sharpie, but it really cleaned up the edges. The patches are just me dialing in my el cheapo Harbor Freight airbrush as tight as possible (not very tight) and trying to mimic the patterns in the prototype photos. I couldn't get them as small as I wanted, but this model is full of compromises so it is what it is. Your version of compromise is a lot different from most humans' version of compromise... If you're game, an old painter's trick for fuzzy edges is to use a round dowel as your mask. Maybe a 1/8" styrene rod, assembled in a box and taped onto the side, and then you spray directly at it and the curved edge lets underspray in to make a feathered edge. Another way to get a soft edge is to roll the tape back on the side getting paint. Avoids a hard edge. |
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