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Post by sd40dash2 on Aug 11, 2020 12:00:18 GMT -8
Donnell, very good weathering job on the bottom photo of 2051. The black carbody streaks, fade and multiple patterns are all very convincing.  |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Aug 11, 2020 12:01:55 GMT -8
packer, thank you for your efforts and attention on the draft gear parts. This is an area of the hobby that has been improving in recent years but there is still room for things to get better. Glad to see you doing your part LOL.
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Post by thunderhawk on Aug 11, 2020 12:18:04 GMT -8
Here is a small bit of my learning resin casting from the other week. With these I can add draft key detail to any car that happens to be missing it. Here is the Kadee Hydro cushion 40 underframe with the draft keys added. The Kadee kit cars are darn near perfect as is but a couple of small details can really make it pop. Now if the humidity would just take a break here for a couple of days I could get some painting and weathering done.
Had that key fall out of a car about 30 deep at 50 mph once. Connects the drawbar to the yoke. Fortunately only some ties were broken versus derailing the train when the drawbar came out. Of course it was my fault until they found the parts, undamaged, laying on the track. Kinda hard to rip a train in two on level ground at 50... |
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Post by packer on Aug 11, 2020 14:43:06 GMT -8
packer, thank you for your efforts and attention on the draft gear parts. This is an area of the hobby that has been improving in recent years but there is still room for things to get better. Glad to see you doing your part LOL. That’s not me, lol |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Aug 11, 2020 15:06:31 GMT -8
Oh shoot, I'm sorry.
EDGECRUSHER, see my above msg that was intended for you...
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Post by Donnell Wells on Aug 11, 2020 15:28:02 GMT -8
How do you make your cut levers and the brackets? The DA ones are getting hard to find.
I typically form my cut levers from .010" phosphor bronze wire available from Tichy Train Products. On this build, I substituted gauge 28 (.0125") beading wire for the center section, only beacause I didn't have any 30 (.010") gauge beading wire, though it's coming. I found that the beading wire is easier to bend and form the tight loops needed to accurately represent this part. At some point, I will document the method I use to form cut levers.
Donnell |
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Post by jbilbrey on Aug 15, 2020 6:53:13 GMT -8
Bringing this hopper closer to completion only to be followed by many more of the same variety. I really need some heavy Vulcan trucks to model some of the later classes as the Kadee Vulcan trucks represent a lighter design.  Glad to see someone else working on one of those cars. I primed my kit couple weekends ago and just got some coupler boxes so that I can finish my build. You might look at the Vulcan trucks from Bethlehem Car Works and see if you think they appear heavier than the Kadee Trucks. BCW Trucks PageFrateschi showed a Brazilian RSC3 on their FB page. But, it probably is not too useful for a SAL/SCL RSC3. The short hood is tooled with D/B details, the grabs are molded-on, it appears to sit a little high on its trucks, etc. |
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Post by SCL618 on Aug 15, 2020 14:24:55 GMT -8
James,
These kits are fun, and tedious depending upon the level of detail you want to pursue, but ultimately, I need a lot of them for a planned layout. I will look over the BCW Vulcan trucks to compare to images in RPC 4 and builder's photos I have. The use of the heavier Vulcan trucks was necessitated by the need to change out bearings if need be "in the field", and away from a shop. Since these cars were largely in Florida service areas, though some traveled far north at times, they were usually not far from a RIP track scattered around central Florida's mines. I last shot an original, unmodified car in 2001 at a car shop locally and was shocked to see it unmolested.
I saw the RSC3 announcement and noted the trucks from Frateschi, and then saw the Rapido RSC13/14 announcement a few days later which also share these same trucks. The big question will be if either will be available separately and how well will they mesh with the drive system that one chooses to build from. Off hand the Atlas RS3 shell is appropriate, but needs some updating and additional details to bring it up to speed. A Bowser RSC3 would be a welcome model even if several years down the road.
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