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Post by packer on Aug 29, 2020 23:02:20 GMT -8
Got a week off for my birthday (31) so I went to town on this Scaletrains F68AH: I’m happy with how this turned out, I tried these same techniques before, but I guess the trick for me is to take time, and do it in chunks instead of all at once. Now to acquire some clear flat and make a load for it. I got a chandelier on my cake too: The tank car next to it came as well and was in need of repairs. It’s fixed now. I also am revisiting this project. Just need to go out and hit it with some gloss after decaling.
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Post by fr8kar on Aug 30, 2020 5:07:52 GMT -8
Nice job on that bulkhead flat! I also got a pair of those finger racks yesterday. It will be fun weathering them. This past week I finished up the two Norfolk & Western coil gondolas I made by splicing together Accurail gondolas: I also weathered an ex-NKP coil gondola kitbash I did awhile back, though I might have been too subtle with the dirt and grime. But I didn't hold back on this repaint/upgrade of an Atlas kaolin tank car.
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Post by wp8thsub on Aug 30, 2020 8:48:52 GMT -8
DSC03691 (2) by wp8thsub, on Flickr I've been trying to finish freight cars lately. This SP RBL was built from a Cannon kit to represent SP class B-100-7R. It uses a modified Athearn Genesis underframe, a Moloco roof with scratchbuilt running board brackets, and Branchline ends. Details include Plano crossover platforms and cut lever assemblies, a Kadee brakewheel, variously sourced ladders and other commercial parts, brass wire, and a lot of stuff built from styrene strip and rod. The laser cut sides have panel lines but no rivets, so Archer rivet decals were applied. DSC03712 by wp8thsub, on Flickr Another Cannon kit became a Cotton Belt version of the B-100-7R. In addition to the differences in lettering, there are variations in door hardware, and extra running board brackets on the end roof panels that were missing from the SP cars. Decals were harvested from a number of Microscale and Herald King sets.
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Post by kpack on Aug 30, 2020 14:11:59 GMT -8
Nice work so far this week! It's great to see other modeler's work. It gets me motivated to work on my own projects. Here's one I finished a while back. It was a rescue project. I picked the car up from a fellow modeler who had begun to use it for something else. I stripped it, repaired it, detailed it, and primed it. I then painted it with cheap craft acrylics through an airbrush. I weathered it to match two different prototypes, one of which is the same number as the model. The model itself isn't an exact match for the prototype but it is close. I like that the graffiti is light because it reflects many of the prototypes that are out there. Not everything is slammed with graffiti thankfully. -Kevin
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Post by Christian on Aug 30, 2020 15:12:52 GMT -8
Here's one I finished a while back. It was a rescue project. Beautiful boxcar. What about the pin lifters? Are the air hoses HighTech or something else I need to know about!
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Post by kpack on Aug 30, 2020 15:39:41 GMT -8
Thanks Christian. The cut levers are Plano, the stirrups are Exactrail, crossover platforms are Plano, couplers are 3D printed Sergents, and brake hoses are made by me. I just use scrap brass sprue to make the hangers, then old Athearn bulb wires to run the brake lines. Works great and gives the correct look.
-Kevin
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Post by ncrc5315 on Aug 30, 2020 16:11:17 GMT -8
Kpack, first off, I had to spend several minutes to determine if your box car was live or Memorex, wow! Second, are the 3D printed Sergents able to take the "normal" operational stress' of running trains?
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Post by steveincleve on Aug 30, 2020 17:07:40 GMT -8
DSC03691 (2) by wp8thsub, on Flickr I've been trying to finish freight cars lately. This SP RBL was built from a Cannon kit to represent SP class B-100-7R. It uses a modified Athearn Genesis underframe, a Moloco roof with scratchbuilt running board brackets, and Branchline ends. Details include Plano crossover platforms and cut lever assemblies, a Kadee brakewheel, variously sourced ladders and other commercial parts, brass wire, and a lot of stuff built from styrene strip and rod. The laser cut sides have panel lines but no rivets, so Archer rivet decals were applied. DSC03712 by wp8thsub, on Flickr Another Cannon kit became a Cotton Belt version of the B-100-7R. In addition to the differences in lettering, there are variations in door hardware, and extra running board brackets on the end roof panels that were missing from the SP cars. Decals were harvested from a number of Microscale and Herald King sets.
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Aug 30, 2020 18:09:41 GMT -8
Got a week off for my birthday (31) so I went to town on this Scaletrains F68AH: I’m happy with how this turned out, I tried these same techniques before, but I guess the trick for me is to take time, and do it in chunks instead of all at once. Now to acquire some clear flat and make a load for it. I got a chandelier on my cake too: The tank car next to it came as well and was in need of repairs. It’s fixed now. I also am revisiting this project. Just need to go out and hit it with some gloss after decaling. What Masonite Cleaning Pad are you using under those 50ft Boxcars
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Aug 30, 2020 18:13:22 GMT -8
Working on another Accurail Partially Enclosed Tri-Level Auto Rack. N&W. It still needs the panel that says Norfolk and Western and weathered. N&W Autorack by Matthew Fisher, on Flickr
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Post by packer on Aug 31, 2020 3:27:52 GMT -8
What Masonite Cleaning Pad are you using under those 50ft Boxcars If I recall they’re custom made. It has two brass pins countersunk into it, and they go through the floor of the car. I’m curious how you do the panels on the trilevel racks. Kpack, I’m curious how that work with using Athearn bulb wire as brake hoses? I kept my bulbs from my Athearns for some reason.
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Post by unittrain on Aug 31, 2020 4:17:48 GMT -8
Great stuff this week. I'm currently assembling several Accurail autoracks. Question how did you do the panels?
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Post by riogrande on Aug 31, 2020 4:55:30 GMT -8
I’m curious how you do the panels on the trilevel racks. Accurail offered autorack kits with the side panels included some years ago. I note on their website is as follows: "All Accurail Auto Racks are now out of production and the tooling has been sold. (Sorry, we must leave it up to them to announce any production intentions.)"
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Aug 31, 2020 5:11:29 GMT -8
The Side Panels are from Accurail that were available before they sold the tooling. I simply trimmed the panels and on the upper level cut posts to extend the existing side posts up to accept the upper panel. I'll snap a few pictures next time I get down to the layout.
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Post by slowfreight on Aug 31, 2020 9:31:55 GMT -8
Time for uploading photos has been short, but I'll try to show some of the background projects I've been working on. I have a large fleet of Walthers sand hoppers, 40 in total. I finally took the time/funds to convert the 24 that weren't Gold Line to metal wheels, and replace the plastic knuckle couplers with Kadee. At the same time, I painted the trucks and couplers. It's a real pain, disassembling every car, pulling wheelsets from trucks, painting, and cleaning wheel treads with a Dremel wire wheel. But I tried using brown camouflage spray paint to save time, since I can't do what I used to do with Floquil. This is a base for weathering, and even without additional weathering the difference is substantial. Before: After: Meanwhile, due to Tom's bad influence I have upgraded all 10 of my P1K newsprint cars First step was to cut down the bolsters with a razor saw, followed by Moloco draft gear. I used an entire Fleet-Pak, and found it super-easy to work with. I also carved off the molded crossover platforms and replaced them with Plano parts while adding wire crossover grabs. These cars have a very distinctive cut lever, and looking forward to Tangent restocking them so I can complete the upgrades. And with the height correction they're looking good buried in the train, too. Lastly, like wp8thsub, I've been working on a Cannon box car kit. These are quite challenging, and I'm hoping the flaws disappear once painted and weathered. Ready for the paint shop now. Chosen prototype: rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=2804008
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Post by TBird1958 on Aug 31, 2020 9:39:18 GMT -8
Nice, the Cannon & Co car is looking great! I have a pair in the "to build" stack, can't wait!
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Post by slowfreight on Aug 31, 2020 9:45:11 GMT -8
Nice, the Cannon & Co car is looking great! I have a pair in the "to build" stack, can't wait! When the instructions tell you to place the sides face down under a weight overnight, believe it! I had to order replacements for one side.
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Post by cannon on Aug 31, 2020 14:07:04 GMT -8
Nice, the Cannon & Co car is looking great! I have a pair in the "to build" stack, can't wait! When the instructions tell you to place the sides face down under a weight overnight, believe it! I had to order replacements for one side. It pays to follow the instructions Looks good
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Post by el3625 on Aug 31, 2020 15:25:58 GMT -8
So does anyone know who owns the tooling for the accurail auto racks now? I really liked them. I had built mine before the side panels were available. There has been no word for some time. I would of liked to have got some of the side panels for a few cars I have.
Bruce
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Post by wp8thsub on Aug 31, 2020 15:46:30 GMT -8
...I've been working on a Cannon box car kit. These are quite challenging, and I'm hoping the flaws disappear once painted and weathered. Ready for the paint shop now. My SP B-100-32 looked a lot like your car when under construction, and I had the same concerns. It looked fine after painting, so judge the result after you get some primer applied.
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Aug 31, 2020 17:02:22 GMT -8
So does anyone know who owns the tooling for the accurail auto racks now? I really liked them. I had built mine before the side panels were available. There has been no word for some time. I would of liked to have got some of the side panels for a few cars I have. Bruce WALTHERS
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Post by tangentsm on Aug 31, 2020 18:03:06 GMT -8
First step was to cut down the bolsters with a razor saw, followed by Moloco draft gear. I used an entire Fleet-Pak, and found it super-easy to work with. I also carved off the molded crossover platforms and replaced them with Plano parts while adding wire crossover grabs. These cars have a very distinctive cut lever, and looking forward to Tangent restocking them so I can complete the upgrades. And with the height correction they're looking good buried in the train, too. Dear "Slowfreight", Which coupler lift bars are you looking for from Tangent? I think all are in stock here: www.tangentscalemodels.com/product-category/unique-and-useful-parts/Best wishes, David Lehlbach Tangent Scale Models
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Post by slowfreight on Aug 31, 2020 21:04:36 GMT -8
The ones from your baby hi-cube cars, which I didn't see on the page.
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Post by schroed2 on Sept 1, 2020 1:05:45 GMT -8
Meanwhile, due to Tom's bad influence I have upgraded all 10 of my P1K newsprint cars First step was to cut down the bolsters with a razor saw, followed by Moloco draft gear. I used an entire Fleet-Pak, and found it super-easy to work with. which type of the Moloco draft gear did you use ? Hopefully, I have the correct one in my pile... Bernd Adelsdorf, Germany
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 1, 2020 7:33:15 GMT -8
which type of the Moloco draft gear did you use ? Hopefully, I have the correct one in my pile... Bernd Adelsdorf, Germany Evans/USRE Cushion Draft Gear. It looked like the best match from the photos.
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Post by drolsen on Sept 1, 2020 9:05:04 GMT -8
Kevin, beautiful work on that Walthers Gunderson boxcar! I love those plain prototype cars, and I think the subtle graffiti looks "tasteful," if that's a word that can be used with graffiti. which type of the Moloco draft gear did you use ? Hopefully, I have the correct one in my pile... Bernd Adelsdorf, Germany Evans/USRE Cushion Draft Gear. It looked like the best match from the photos. Your newsprint cars look great! That takes a lot of dedication, to go through that upgrade process for ten cars. I have about three dozen of those newsprint cars (I got a little obsesses with collecting them a few years back), and I'll be lucky if I get around to upgrading a half dozen. I think yours look great, and the Evans/USRE draft gear was a good solution to match the prototype. For what it's worth though, on the Modern Freight Car List way back in 2013, Nick Molo recommended using the Pullman Standard end frame fittings and pocket lid with the welded pockets vs. the bolted pockets of the PS set. Obviously that requires mixing and matching the parts, so I bought a Fleet Pak each of PS draft gear and welded non-cushioned draft gear for the project. I'm finding a few prototypes like that. Nick also said this in his reply: "I actually have done a couple of these conversions, however I was fed up with the proto u/f floor combo, so I used my floor and frame which has the sliding sill details and my PS draft gear just drops in, likewise with the other cushioning devices. I sell the floor frame parts for $10 a set." That adds cost, of course, but it could make the bolster and draft gear conversion a quick job if someone only needs a couple newsprint cars. Dave
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 1, 2020 10:07:10 GMT -8
I found it very fast to use the P1K underframe. I had to drill two holes, but locating them was easy and could be done by eye. The kit included enough hardware. It's about 30 seconds a bolster to slice them down with the Xacto small-handle razor saw blade. I just don't think it's worth the extra $10 for a Moloco underframe. I already spent $3 for couplers, $6 for draft gear, and $1 for the crossover.
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Post by drolsen on Sept 1, 2020 12:00:07 GMT -8
I started following Ken Edmier's article in the August 2003 issue of Railmodel Journal years ago, which you can see on page 51 of this PDF version on the Trainlife website: Railmodel Journal August 2003Like many of my projects, this one stalled because I got distracted by something else, but I'll pick it up again someday soon, as it's high on my list. Obviously this level of detail isn't for everyone, but I enjoy this type of thing. I agree that the $10 Moloco floor is an unnecessary expense - I just through it out there because it was part of Nick's comments about the draft gear. The underbody details that Ken added in his article (brake piping and rods) are more important for me, personally, because they're actually visible in the way that they hang down from the car. The floor itself would never be visible. Obviously his model was built long before the Moloco draft gear were available. He also didn't do the bolster modification, which is a great visual improvement. I'll add this to the list of projects that Sunday Photo Fun is pushing me to dig out and finish. Thanks for the inspiration! Dave
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Post by schroed2 on Sept 2, 2020 2:41:08 GMT -8
He also didn't do the bolster modification, which is a great visual improvement. Dave i have discovered the thread here from December 2019, but unfortunately the photo that shows the bolster modification is missing. Can anybody repost it or take another one ? I think i understand the modification, but a photo would definitely help... Bernd Adelsdorf, Germany
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 2, 2020 5:48:02 GMT -8
He also didn't do the bolster modification, which is a great visual improvement. Dave i have discovered the thread here from December 2019, but unfortunately the photo that shows the bolster modification is missing. Can anybody repost it or take another one ? I think i understand the modification, but a photo would definitely help... Bernd Adelsdorf, Germany Sorry, forgot to take photos while I had it all apart. The bolster has a round, raised boss on it. Just slice that off flat. You don't need the locator ring on it that holds the truck because the screw head keeps it aligned. But the raised boss is the problem with the car height. I found the razor saw blade was the easiest way to slice it off. You can then use the original screw hole and truck screw.
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