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Post by wp8thsub on Sept 6, 2020 11:31:38 GMT -8
DSC03689 (2) by wp8thsub, on Flickr This SP B-100-32 was built from the Cannon & Company kit. A Moloco 50' roof was shortened to fit, along with a Genesis 50' PC&F underframe. The doors are from Kadee, increased in height by one corrugation to fit the Plate C height. I scavenged brake details from an Intermountain cylindrical hopper kit. Door tracks and various other details were fabricated from styrene strip.
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Post by simulatortrain on Sept 6, 2020 11:55:16 GMT -8
You snuck in while I was starting the thread myself- glad I checked! I'm working on a model of WM RS2 180. I thought it would be a fun challenge with some replacement hood doors and the lack of an underbody fuel tank: Modeling a pair of WM GP40s starts with a printed dynamic brake hatch: Finally, some H5 horns I need for my WM F7s:
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Post by TBird1958 on Sept 6, 2020 12:12:19 GMT -8
TTJX 80515 an F68BH "Finger Rack" from Bethleham Steel Car built in 2/70, here fully loaded with rebar west bound on the D&RGW in '76. The model is Scale Trains, the load is from Proto Loads, weathered with oils, chalks and colored pencils. #My'70sTrip
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 6, 2020 16:08:02 GMT -8
My finger racks came in, too. I only got as far as adding Sergent couplers. I used my last two pair of +0.100" shank couplers on these. The height comes out just right. I also spent a little time over the past couple weeks working on my Atlas tank cars. Mostly they need a new control valve, but once that's done the protruding coupler box and ugly stirrups really stick out. Here the blue tank has new stirrups and Moloco coupler boxes in addition to the new control valve while the black tank still has its original coupler box and stirrups. I just noticed the black tank has Sergent SBE couplers I added a top shelf to. The blue tank has some SE couplers out of the package. The SE (double shelf) couplers aren't available at the moment due to the 3D printer that makes the lost wax masters being out of commission, so I printed just the top shelf for these. I already have several tank cars, but you can't model Texas without a whole bunch of them and I'm going to need many more.
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Post by jbilbrey on Sept 6, 2020 19:39:23 GMT -8
Several years ago, I started picking up what ended up being six Athearn R-T-R 2-bay hoppers lettered for CSX and its predecessors. These cars used to be common in the Middle TN area - I photographed several, just not the numbers that Athearn released - until I assume the 40-year rule caught up with them, and they were replaced by the influx of Trinity covered hoppers. About as far as I got on the project was to find prototype photos of the six cars (that itself was a bit of a chore as one of them was misnumbered by Athearn). I then lost interest in the project (and really modeling CSX in general) until ScaleTrains announced their ES44AH. The first car that I started work on is CSXT 225916. This was a FMC 2700 Cu.Ft. hopper built for the C&O. Railcar Photos of CSXT 225916Athearn did a creditable job on the model. The ACI plate is missing, and it appears that the C&O logo may be slightly oversized. After adding Kadee couplers, scratched cut-levers, and Hi-Tech air hoses, I focused on weathering the car using a combination of AK interactive pigments, Citadel paints, and Pan Pastels. All in all, it was a fun Friday afternoon/Saturday morning project. Also, I just realized that I missed the "BN green" stripes on the corners; I have no idea as to the meaning/purpose of those markings. CSXT 225916 by James Bilbrey, on Flickr Next up is an ex-B&O hopper. Instead of the earthy/rusty tones seen on this car, the B&O car had taken on a chalky white appearance by the time it was photographed.
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Post by runs2waynoka on Sept 7, 2020 2:15:22 GMT -8
Evans log car built from a 3d printed kit. These are now mostly used for utility pole loading so I needed a pole load for it, I really got tired of making those utility poles.... Walthers PS container flat, one of the more common uses for these in modern times is hauling DOD ordnance containers. Working on SP 8192, as it appeared in the 2002-2003 era. I crossed paths with the real one several times back then. Brad
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Post by packer on Sept 7, 2020 9:10:54 GMT -8
DSC03689 (2) by wp8thsub, on Flickr This SP B-100-32 was built from the Cannon & Company kit. A Moloco 50' roof was shortened to fit, along with a Genesis 50' PC&F underframe. The doors are from Kadee, increased in height by one corrugation to fit the Plate C height. I scavenged brake details from an Intermountain cylindrical hopper kit. Door tracks and various other details were fabricated from styrene strip. I’m working on one of those, but I started with an Athearn kit. What all goes into the cannon kits?
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 7, 2020 13:03:47 GMT -8
What did you use for the poles, Brad? We usually get anywhere from two to half a dozen carloads of those from the KCS every time they bring a drag. Man do they stink. But you got the look spot on!
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Post by wp8thsub on Sept 7, 2020 14:11:27 GMT -8
I’m working on one of those [SP boxcars], but I started with an Athearn kit. What all goes into the cannon kits? They include laser cut styrene sides that build up in layers. The kit bundles I've built include roofs, underframes, ends, Moloco drat gear, and a few other miscellaneous parts like some of the ladders and door hardware. The builder must supply a lot of the small details like crossover platforms, cut lever assemblies, wire, styrene of various dimensions, and so on, plus the usual things like trucks and couplers. Door tracks and a number of other items must be scratchbuilt from styrene strip and/or rod. Two of my cars required running board brackets that I cut from styrene angle. Some require Archer rivet decals. The instruction sheets provide a list of materials, which varies by car.
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Post by csxt8400 on Sept 7, 2020 15:21:57 GMT -8
What did you use for the poles, Brad? We usually get anywhere from two to half a dozen carloads of those from the KCS every time they bring a drag. Man do they stink. But you got the look spot on! Look up the consignee for those next time. I'd be interested to see if they came out of Mississippi.
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Post by runs2waynoka on Sept 7, 2020 16:03:26 GMT -8
What did you use for the poles, Brad? We usually get anywhere from two to half a dozen carloads of those from the KCS every time they bring a drag. Man do they stink. But you got the look spot on! I found some dowels at Walmart, I think they might be 1/8” I need to check. After chopping them to length, I colored them with a Minwax stain pen, this is a paint pen with wood stain that is supposed to be used for fixing scratches on furniture. They sell a bunch of different colors at Walmart. It works great for highlighting the wood grain by just rubbing them over the dowels. It is a hollow load to keep to weight down. We see a bunch of those same pole loads, they unload lots of them at the 10th St team track in Amarillo, and some of them also go to Woodward, OK.
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Post by sp8192 on Sept 7, 2020 16:35:19 GMT -8
Love that SP 8192! Hence where my handle came from...the very last true SP dash 9.
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Post by simulatortrain on Sept 7, 2020 16:43:25 GMT -8
One side of the RS2 has its replacement hood doors:
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 7, 2020 20:47:07 GMT -8
What did you use for the poles, Brad? We usually get anywhere from two to half a dozen carloads of those from the KCS every time they bring a drag. Man do they stink. But you got the look spot on! I found some dowels at Walmart, I think they might be 1/8” I need to check. After chopping them to length, I colored them with a Minwax stain pen, this is a paint pen with wood stain that is supposed to be used for fixing scratches on furniture. They sell a bunch of different colors at Walmart. It works great for highlighting the wood grain by just rubbing them over the dowels. It is a hollow load to keep to weight down. We see a bunch of those same pole loads, they unload lots of them at the 10th St team track in Amarillo, and some of them also go to Woodward, OK. Thanks for the explanation! I think most of those loads end up going on the ALTAMS now that I think about it. I'll try to see where they actually originate beyond the KCS interchange.
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Post by D Bradley on Sept 7, 2020 20:50:32 GMT -8
Evans log car built from a 3d printed kit. These are now mostly used for utility pole loading so I needed a pole load for it, I really got tired of making those utility poles.... Walthers PS container flat, one of the more common uses for these in modern times is hauling DOD ordnance containers. Working on SP 8192, as it appeared in the 2002-2003 era. I crossed paths with the real one several times back then. Brad Would you have the link to that log car?
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Post by runs2waynoka on Sept 8, 2020 6:03:25 GMT -8
Evans log car built from a 3d printed kit. Would you have the link to that log car? Dunstan Fandel was making these kits though his company, Firecat Designs, but his website is no longer up so I don’t think they’re being offered any longer. He made several other pole cars such as the LTTX cars for longer poles as well. I found out about these originally over on the MRH forum, there was a article in the 12-16 MRH about them. Hopefully they will come back someday as I like building unique projects like this and supporting those who offer them by buying their products.
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Post by runs2waynoka on Sept 8, 2020 6:16:30 GMT -8
Love that SP 8192! Hence where my handle came from...the very last true SP dash 9. Thanks. Way back in October 2002, I chased the real one when it was leading a grain empty with a CSX B36 and a SP GP60, for about 70 miles. For now I’m going to try to fight the temptation to model the rest of that consist and not start building a early 2000s UP grain train.
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Post by packer on Sept 8, 2020 15:07:46 GMT -8
I’m working on one of those [SP boxcars], but I started with an Athearn kit. What all goes into the cannon kits? They include laser cut styrene sides that build up in layers. The kit bundles I've built include roofs, underframes, ends, Moloco drat gear, and a few other miscellaneous parts like some of the ladders and door hardware. The builder must supply a lot of the small details like crossover platforms, cut lever assemblies, wire, styrene of various dimensions, and so on, plus the usual things like trucks and couplers. Door tracks and a number of other items must be scratchbuilt from styrene strip and/or rod. Two of my cars required running board brackets that I cut from styrene angle. Some require Archer rivet decals. The instruction sheets provide a list of materials, which varies by car. Does the list of materials includes the styrene shapes and sizes needed to complete it? There’s quite a few cannon kits I’m interested in, but having no LHS that stocks styrene anymore might make it difficult.
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Post by wp8thsub on Sept 8, 2020 18:20:08 GMT -8
Does the list of materials [for Cannon car kits] includes the styrene shapes and sizes needed to complete it? There’s quite a few cannon kits I’m interested in, but having no LHS that stocks styrene anymore might make it difficult. Yes. My LHS didn't have everything either, so I used the parts lists to order online.
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Post by drolsen on Sept 9, 2020 6:29:58 GMT -8
There’s quite a few cannon kits I’m interested in, but having no LHS that stocks styrene anymore might make it difficult. Yes. My LHS didn't have everything either, so I used the parts lists to order online. Not sure if either of you have Hobby Lobby stores around where you live, but they have a limited selection of Evergreen styrene in their modeling section (along with tools and some paints, including Vallejo). Not every size that a real hobby shop carries, but some basic sizes to get by. Dave
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Post by slowfreight on Sept 9, 2020 7:38:18 GMT -8
Does the list of materials [for Cannon car kits] includes the styrene shapes and sizes needed to complete it? There’s quite a few cannon kits I’m interested in, but having no LHS that stocks styrene anymore might make it difficult. Yes. My LHS didn't have everything either, so I used the parts lists to order online. And don't forget that you can reach Cannon through the forum here if you have questions. My Cannon kit is now ready for decals and weathering, so I guess this is my contribution to SPF... I'll say that for as many different manufacturers' parts are piled into the box, if you follow the directions they go together very well. I substituted Kadee ladders and brake wheel for the Intermountain ones, plus Plano etchings. But I find I do that on many craftsman kits. But for sure, they're challenging and you have to assemble the side sandwiches with care. Some parts of the instructions are general, like door stops and door tracks, so check against proto photos before following the kit directions exactly. I would have made changes to the lower track on the sliding door if I had caught it soon enough, but it doesn't look bad. Like wp8thsub said, getting paint on it made it look pretty good. Weathering and decals should take care of the rest.
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Post by cannon on Sept 9, 2020 7:46:50 GMT -8
They include laser cut styrene sides that build up in layers. The kit bundles I've built include roofs, underframes, ends, Moloco drat gear, and a few other miscellaneous parts like some of the ladders and door hardware. The builder must supply a lot of the small details like crossover platforms, cut lever assemblies, wire, styrene of various dimensions, and so on, plus the usual things like trucks and couplers. Door tracks and a number of other items must be scratchbuilt from styrene strip and/or rod. Two of my cars required running board brackets that I cut from styrene angle. Some require Archer rivet decals. The instruction sheets provide a list of materials, which varies by car. Does the list of materials includes the styrene shapes and sizes needed to complete it? There’s quite a few cannon kits I’m interested in, but having no LHS that stocks styrene anymore might make it difficult. When I started making the kits, I was only offering the basic laser parts. Those kits in the 40xx series required the modeler to try and find some of the major parts that other companies make. I invested a significant amount of money to stock these parts and have offered them separately. Trying to sell a car at a RPM meet proved difficult as the mix of parts varied. As I made more cars available this became too crazy. So I created the 50xx series Bundles that include the major body components. Such as Moloco or other roof, various ends, cast or laser doors, ladders, underframe, and Moloco draft gear. I do not provide the common and “easily” obtainable items such as trucks, couplers, and as someone mentioned various styrene sizes and shapes. In some cases I have sourced custom decals that are available in the decal section. In the shopping cart listing I have included the “required” parts section from the instructions with the Bundle parts so the modeler has an idea what is included and what they still need to acquire. The Evergreen styrene can be ordered direct from them. I hope this clarifies things. Dave Hussey Cannon and Company
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Post by Donnell Wells on Sept 9, 2020 9:34:53 GMT -8
Modeling a pair of WM GP40s starts with a printed dynamic brake hatch: Hi Simulator, can you give more info on the dynamic brake hatch?
Thanks, Donnell
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Post by simulatortrain on Sept 10, 2020 4:18:11 GMT -8
Donnell,
I'm printing the blister. It's made to fit the Atlas GP40, and is shown in that picture with a Cannon fan base and turbo hatch. I'm playing around with the thickness of the grille slats right now to see if I can get them to look any better. There's grid detail on the inside so I'd like it to be visible.
DB like this is correct for: B&O 4000-4064 C&O 3780-3794, 4065-4089, 4090-4099 DRGW 3086-3093 SCL 1633-1635 WM 3795-3799 WP 3527-3544
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Post by riogrande on Sept 10, 2020 7:23:22 GMT -8
Donnell, I'm printing the blister. It's made to fit the Atlas GP40, and is shown in that picture with a Cannon fan base and turbo hatch. I'm playing around with the thickness of the grille slats right now to see if I can get them to look any better. There's grid detail on the inside so I'd like it to be visible. DB like this is correct for: B&O 4000-4064 C&O 3780-3794, 4065-4089, 4090-4099 DRGW 3086-3093 SCL 1633-1635 WM 3795-3799 WP 3527-3544 D&RGW class 3086-3093 is the only one not available in HO. IIRC, they were a late version with extended DB before the GP40-2 model was offered.
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Post by gevohogger on Sept 10, 2020 8:02:00 GMT -8
Donnell, I'm printing the blister. It's made to fit the Atlas GP40, and is shown in that picture with a Cannon fan base and turbo hatch. I'm playing around with the thickness of the grille slats right now to see if I can get them to look any better. There's grid detail on the inside so I'd like it to be visible. DB like this is correct for: B&O 4000-4064 C&O 3780-3794, 4065-4089, 4090-4099 DRGW 3086-3093 SCL 1633-1635 WM 3795-3799 WP 3527-3544 D&RGW class 3086-3093 is the only one not available in HO. IIRC, they were a late version with extended DB before the GP40-2 model was offered. Hence the new DB part...
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Post by riogrande on Sept 10, 2020 9:13:38 GMT -8
D&RGW class 3086-3093 is the only one not available in HO. IIRC, they were a late version with extended DB before the GP40-2 model was offered. Hence the new DB part... Far out.
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sp3205
Junior Member
Posts: 92
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Post by sp3205 on Sept 11, 2020 16:28:19 GMT -8
D&RGW class 3086-3093 is the only one not available in HO. IIRC, they were a late version with extended DB before the GP40-2 model was offered. Hence the new DB part... Extended fairing, not extended range dynamic brakes. The latter can usually be identified by the contactor access door on the dynamic brake fairing. Looking at photos of this class, it doesn't appear they were equipped with extended range dynamic brakes at all. It appears the geeps weren't so equipped until 3116.
I wish you luck getting the vanes thin enough to see the dynamic brake grids. When Dave Hussey built his ATSF SD39 1565, he made the vanes from individual bits of 0.010 styrene, backed with resistor grids. I used the Cannon SD50/60 dynamic brake grill as the basis for that part on my SD45X. Dave warned me I wouldn't really be able to see the grids, but you know, I was determined to do it anyway. Of course, he was right. My Scale Trains SD40-2 has really nice factory-supplied dynamic brake grids. Like the SD45X, it takes a really bright light and a lot of effort to see them. I stopped worrying about it after that.
Elizabeth
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Post by Funnelfan on Sept 14, 2020 1:56:42 GMT -8
I also spent a little time over the past couple weeks working on my Atlas tank cars. Mostly they need a new control valve, but once that's done the protruding coupler box and ugly stirrups really stick out. Here the blue tank has new stirrups and Moloco coupler boxes in addition to the new control valve while the black tank still has its original coupler box and stirrups. Those upgrades look great, but I wish Atlas would get rid of those gawd awful ugly trucks with the gaping holes in them. It's not easy to retrofit other trucks to the Atlas cars because Atlas had their own ideas about bolster design.
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 14, 2020 5:40:26 GMT -8
I also spent a little time over the past couple weeks working on my Atlas tank cars. Mostly they need a new control valve, but once that's done the protruding coupler box and ugly stirrups really stick out. Here the blue tank has new stirrups and Moloco coupler boxes in addition to the new control valve while the black tank still has its original coupler box and stirrups. Those upgrades look great, but I wish Atlas would get rid of those gawd awful ugly trucks with the gaping holes in them. It's not easy to retrofit other trucks to the Atlas cars because Atlas had their own ideas about bolster design. The only beef I have with the trucks is the open area above the bolster in the truck frame is filled in when it should be a void or at least should have some depth. As far as the shape of the windows is concerned, I've read others take issue with it but it's very close to trucks Trinity has used from my era up to the recent past (depending on the customer's specifications, of course). I live and work near the plant where those tank cars were built so I still see them all the time and usually up close. You're right that it is tricky to swap out the trucks on these cars. I did that on one that remains undecorated. I put some Genesis trucks on there and they look great.
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