Here are a couple prototype photos I took in the summer of 1991. One of the models is an attempt to duplicate the prototype and the other is just inspired by the prototype photo.
I have a bunch of green covered hoppers (±40 more?) that need weathering like this so I've been trying to come up with a way to knock them out in a short period of time. The method I'm using at the moment involves brushing liberal amounts of Bragdon powders on the model then removing much of it with a draftsman's cleaning pad. I use a pink wedge eraser to clean up the faces of the side stakes, some of the ladder rungs and any other area I want "rubbed clean." Once I have the weathering the way I want it I spray it with flat clear. It's definitely the quickest way I've tried so far.
Here's a "before and after" showing the difference the weathering makes:
James those hoppers look great! I'll have to hunt for some of those Islington Station decals myself.
It's from November 1977, and my low-end cutoff is 1978, but I think it's still a good gamble that the roofwalk made it well into my era. I should probably add a wheel dot for 1978+, but it took time during that year to get every car marked. You can't have too many hangers-on, but some of these random holdouts add color to the fleet.
When I got to this point, I wasn't sure I would be pleased with the results. I had too much trouble keeping the ribs straight and square. I had some gaps I filled in different places that bothered me, and I wasn't sure I did the door tracks right.
But after decals, it really started to perk up. The roof is mostly weathered, and next step is the sides. This one is both challenging to build and challenging to weather.
Lots of upgrades to get it this far. Kadee roof walk on Plano roof walk brackets. Kadee ladders and brake wheel, Plano brake wheel platform. Wish I knew what kit those stirrups came from, as I found them in the scrapbox and need 4 more to build the next kit. The decal set includes two complete sheets, but done carefully I could get a complete car out of one. The multi-piece decals for the heralds made everything easier, but have to be done with patience over multiple sessions. In the end I touched up flaws in the heralds with a brush after these photos were taken.
Hello everyone. Happy Thanksgiving to my fellow Canadian brothers and sisters out there.
Beautiful work, as usual, everyone. Thought I'd share what I'm working on at the moment. I bought a pair of Rail Power Products 8-40CWs a few years ago and have been focusing on the body work for the most part. Then I got the parts in to start work on the chassis. As purchased, the Rail Power Products chassis doesn't have much of anything in the way of details. Mine came with some plastic air tanks, which went straight into my scrap box. Some Details West parts and a few parts I made from stuff around the workshop and this is where I am at the moment. A lot of time was spent on trainiax.com focusing in on photos of CN and IC 8-40CW tanks so that I could get the parts placement as close as I could. This is all being done before I prime, paint, and weather them...and then I just have to put the whole package together.
There's still more to be done. I have to put some five minute epoxy in places so that I don't have to worry about CA delaminating and parts falling off while the units are running. And I might add some more details...those traction motor cables are quite visible on the prototype, so I might use more of the solder I have available to mock up something.
Enjoy the rest of the weekend, and keep inspiring me with the trains you show me every weekend!
Post by simulatortrain on Oct 11, 2020 15:27:10 GMT -8
My RS2 body is now complete, so it's time to turn my attention to the truck and frame detailing.
The KV end stanchions and drop steps aren't 100% correct for WM, but I think they get the point across well enough. The prototype steps are larger and rectangular, with chains holding the outer edges when dropped. I elected to leave the chains off, fearing the oversized chains would make the ends look too cluttered. After priming it, I'm certain that was the right choice.
With the discussion around Bethgon's and Aeroflo's this week following ScaleTrains' announcement, I pulled out some of the cars I've done and took a look at them. Here are a few from different manufacturers. Since these will all be in a unit train (empty), I've decided to focus on the weathering more than the detailing. I have done some minor detailing to the areas that will be seen (braces), but after replacing all the grabs on a few, I decided that was too much work.
LBF Aeroflo. I shaved off all the grabs irons on the sides and replaced with brass wire. It was a ton of work and really didn't do much to enhance the car. Paint hasn't stuck very well to them. Car sat too high so I had to modify the trucks, and shave some off the upper cord. Also relocated the internal braces to the right place.
Intermountain Aeroflo, using the old LBF molds. I didn't bother replacing the grabs or relocating the braces. Weathering hides a lot of poor detailing.
Same car, other side
Athearn RTR. Redid all the internal bracing
Walthers. Stripped, repainted, decaled. Didn't bother removing the grabs. Still need to add type F's on a bunch of these cars
A little while back I got the idea to fix up a Bowser U25B, with the idea of making a SP unit that bad air and baking sun had taken a toll on the paint, and nearing retirement, the railroad was just running it with minimal maintenance. The Bowser model has undergone a number of improvements over the years, one of the most notable the correct wheelbase on the trucks. I started by working on the underframe, the lack of detail there caused the model to appear to just float on the trucks. I made the fuel tank bigger, modified the pilots with scale draft gear, put on etched steps (including using a Cannon step on the left rear as different style, as seen in various photos), added radiators and etched screen, and moved the class lights and added other small details. I'd never noticed the little "goose neck" crossover step lights on these before. As I did on a U30C I built years ago, the fine screen on the radiator/dynamic brake intake is made from chiffon, selected by spending quite a bit of time examining different weaves in the bridal section of Britex Fabric! It represents a pretty beat up prototype, but these were in and out of storage in the mid-70s.