|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 25, 2020 7:45:27 GMT -8
Fairly easy start to this kit. I drew a straight line to help mark the holes to mount the supplied Tichy stake pockets.  |
|
|
|
Post by jbilbrey on Oct 25, 2020 9:15:50 GMT -8
3. Can anyone offer commercial product suggestions for interesting circa-1900-1910 loads? The loads I've seen in some old pioneer-era photos of these cars have been pretty spectacular and I would be willing to spend a little to buy a nice load for the car. I'm thinking of something like a period-correct fire buggy, early automobiles (these were just beginning to appear at this time in our history) farm implement or other cool ideas. RTR preferred.
Not RTR, but you might also look into some of Rio Grande Model's vehicles. The line is currently OOP, but there was a recent FB posting saying that the company had been sold and will return to the market. I have built their ditcher (looking back, probably not the best kit to start with but it was $10) and their Holt 75 tractor, and I have a Best Model 60 dozer in the stash. These are best described as the traditional multimedia craftsman kits consisting of white metal, brass wire, and sometimes wood and/or corrugated metal. If one takes his/her time, they can come out looking nice. One just has to be patient when building one. Good luck on the flatcar. I am definitely following this build |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 25, 2020 12:37:09 GMT -8
Not RTR, but you might also look into some of Rio Grande Model's vehicles. The line is currently OOP, but there was a recent FB posting saying that the company had been sold and will return to the market. I have built their ditcher (looking back, probably not the best kit to start with but it was $10) and their Holt 75 tractor, and I have a Best Model 60 dozer in the stash. These are best described as the traditional multimedia craftsman kits consisting of white metal, brass wire, and sometimes wood and/or corrugated metal. If one takes his/her time, they can come out looking nice. One just has to be patient when building one. Good luck on the flatcar. I am definitely following this build Wow thanks very much for the recommendation. That company has a lot of great parts and odds and ends that would be very helpful for those modelling earlier era stuff. I'll take a look at their site and see if I can find something there. You reminded me of another company (Bitter Creek Models) which seems to carry a lot of similar parts and even has a very similar website. Thank you for commenting and following my build! |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 25, 2020 16:05:12 GMT -8
The instructions specify removal of two corners to make notches in the side sills. I used my trusty scriber saw for this job but please watch where your fingers are when doing this. Safety must always be top of mind.  |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 26, 2020 15:37:17 GMT -8
These are the supplied pieces of wood that will be used for the end buffer blocks and draft gear bearing plates. I have marked their lines but will hold off on cutting them until ready to use them. Less chance this way of losing the smaller parts in the meantime.  |
|
|
|
Post by slowfreight on Oct 27, 2020 8:55:09 GMT -8
Many moons ago, I built a Quality Craft 86' box car. I did it because the kit was $4, and an Athearn was $8. Kits like this always struck me as scratch building with directions, but given enough time, wood dope, and scrubbing with fine steel wool they turn out well.
|
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Oct 27, 2020 11:16:43 GMT -8
Many moons ago, I built a Quality Craft 86' box car. I did it because the kit was $4, and an Athearn was $8. Kits like this always struck me as scratch building with directions, but given enough time, wood dope, and scrubbing with fine steel wool they turn out well. On the other hand - just into the opening steps of this project I can see why I've totally turned to styrene. I'll continue watching for reasons of nostalgia. Not for project inspiration. Wooden parts, dope, steel wool, and other such materials and actions are well left back in the stone age of the hobby. |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 27, 2020 11:38:30 GMT -8
On the other hand - just into the opening steps of this project I can see why I've totally turned to styrene. I'll continue watching for reasons of nostalgia. Not for project inspiration. Wooden parts, dope, steel wool, and other such materials and actions are well left back in the stone age of the hobby. Hmmm those are interesting comments. I did look to replacing everything with styrene on this project but then I considered that the prototype is made of wood. I know you can sand styrene to simulate wood but it's not the same. IMHO styrene is best for steel prototypes and wood is best for wood prototypes. For the record I'm not using dope or steel wool here, just weldbond and ACC, same as if the car was made of styrene. |
|
|
|
Post by slowfreight on Oct 27, 2020 12:05:45 GMT -8
On the other hand - just into the opening steps of this project I can see why I've totally turned to styrene. I'll continue watching for reasons of nostalgia. Not for project inspiration. Wooden parts, dope, steel wool, and other such materials and actions are well left back in the stone age of the hobby. Hmmm those are interesting comments. I did look to replacing everything with styrene on this project but then I considered that the prototype is made of wood. I know you can sand styrene to simulate wood but it's not the same. IMHO styrene is best for steel prototypes and wood is best for wood prototypes. For the record I'm not using dope or steel wool here, just weldbond and ACC, same as if the car was made of styrene. If I can find the car, I'll snap a few photos of it. Filling the wood grain was horribly time-consuming but made a big difference. The prototype was a steel car, which is why I had to go to great lengths to get rid of the graininess. And my flatcar decks are done with stripwood because even laser-cut wood can't give the right look, let alone plastic. |
|
|
|
Post by nsc39d8 on Oct 27, 2020 13:07:05 GMT -8
I like this build so far. Working with wood kits can be a challenge. When I did my bridge abutments I used this pine wood derby sealer: www.pinewoodpro.com/wood-primer-sealer-primes-wood-before-painting.htmlYou can find it at different places and I actually think I got mine at Hobby Lobby. Seals nicely and the wood grain did not show thru. It is sandable and it worked nice in my abutments to simulate concrete. Keep up the great work! |
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Oct 27, 2020 14:36:33 GMT -8
wood is best for wood prototypes. Not really. "Real World" wood construction doesn't use wood that looks like a model builder's basswood or sugar pine. Grain simply doesn't scale. Model wood tends to have soft edges and corners. New wood freight cars were painted and varnished so that no grain was visible. As a car deteriorated, yes, wood showed and often became quite battered. A model made from distressed scale lumber looks like a great model. But it doesn't look "Real World." And, yep, I've shown that sort of model here - distressed board on board - and have gotten more thumbs than any prototype modeling I've displayed. There is something about a wood model that appeals to the pioneer in all of us. Not to take away from your project in any manner. It's a style thing. As I said, I'm getting a kick out of the thread for nostalgia. |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 28, 2020 2:44:43 GMT -8
Tedious work that I wasn't anxious to get to but I finally managed to get all 36 holes drilled for the stake pockets, plus eight more for the side grab and stirrup. Pin vice with #74 bit is the recommended tool here.  |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 28, 2020 16:07:16 GMT -8
If you want a train air line, now is the time to build it. Either .015 or .020 wire should be fine. The kit included music wire for this but I subbed with Tichy wire instead as I prefer working with their softer material.  |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 29, 2020 17:38:42 GMT -8
Step 6 outlines how to assemble the overall car structure.  |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 29, 2020 20:10:08 GMT -8
Thinking ahead to the load, here is an interesting write-up using old-growth logs as inspiration. markpaulson.wordpress.com/2012/02/29/logging-flat-cars/Any prototype conflicts with the above side stakes, anti-roll strips and tie-downs shown in the article? I am surrounded by trees here (elm, spruce, poplar, birch) so could easily access branches to make this load. I could notch out the bottom two to make space for lead weights. What do you guys think? I like this home-brew idea as I have found the high shipping costs and USD exchange to purchase a commercial load require a bit more cash than I wish to spend for this. |
|
|
|
Post by Christian on Oct 30, 2020 1:03:13 GMT -8
Your logs look like a good idea. I was wondering about weight and you did mention it as part of the logs. All the stakes and chains are interesting.
|
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 30, 2020 3:47:46 GMT -8
Your logs look like a good idea. I was wondering about weight and you did mention it as part of the logs. All the stakes and chains are interesting. Thanks Christian for your reply. Maybe what I'll do today is go out and gather up a few candidates before everything gets covered up by snow. I would value some opinions about which have the right look, so I'll take some photos and maybe you guys can help me decide which are the best. Then there's the issue of sticky sap. I have a few spruce branches that were cut a year or two ago. I usually just burn all that stuff outside but definitely don't want them inside the house if still sticky. |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Oct 31, 2020 5:23:21 GMT -8
Step 6 also suggests applying a piece of wax paper above the scale drawing on page 3 to help align everything without gluing the model to the paper.  |
|
|
|
Post by sd40dash2 on Nov 1, 2020 3:05:27 GMT -8
Steps 7 and 8 are about gluing the deck in place with the nicely pre-cut boards. I preferred to do step 8 before the boards were assembled onto the car. I'm not a fan of trying to file so many notches while holding onto such a delicate model. I believe that would exert too much pressure on the model.  |
|
|
|
Post by slowfreight on Nov 1, 2020 10:16:24 GMT -8
It's probably too late now, but I got the best results by staining the wood deck straps before assembly so that they had lots of color variation.
|
|
