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Post by Deleted on Nov 25, 2012 18:20:49 GMT -8
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Post by antoniofp45 on Nov 26, 2012 2:54:49 GMT -8
Jim,
As always, craftsman quality work.
Years back I generally (ignorantly) thought that an "E-unit was an E-unit"; but within the last decade I've grown to appreciate how these classic cabs vary in appearance from road to road.
Questions:
1. The protrusion below the backup light. Is that an HEP connection?
2. The red lenses in the class lights opening. I'm assuming they're MVs. What size are they?
3. How did you set up your headlights (fiberoptic, LEDs )
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2012 5:25:15 GMT -8
Jim,
Questions:
1. The protrusion below the backup light. Is that an HEP connection? Dummy MU plug Jim, 2. The red lenses in the class lights opening. I'm assuming they're MVs. What size are they? Actually all the lighting is 1.5 v Minitronics bulbs. The upper clear Mars oscillates on F1 and the lower red Mars oscillates on F2 which was re-mapped to F3. This allows the red Mars to be lighted all the time when "pushing". The class lights are also lighted and the bulbs have been tinted with Tamya clear red. They are on the back up light lead of the decoder. Again they will light when the unit is pushing. Jim, 3. How did you set up your headlights (fiberoptic, LEDs ) [/size] [/quote] All lighting is Minitronics 1.5v bulbs. LED's suck pond water when used for Mars lights. LED's are good for bright headlights but are near impossible to use on dual light Mars (upper clear, lower red) without the use of light tubes. The nose of this unit was already a mass of wire from the six bulbs leading to the front. I had to remove generous amounts of the Proto cab to get the wire through and had to cut a slot in the die cast weight that Proto used to encase the motor and flywheels, to form a wire raceway. The decoder was positioned where the old light board used to be over the rear truck.
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Post by valenciajim on Nov 26, 2012 15:18:28 GMT -8
Excellent modeling.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2012 16:23:04 GMT -8
Thank you. My photos though are pretty bad. The model actually looks a lot better in person.
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Post by rhpd42002 on Nov 27, 2012 17:41:58 GMT -8
Thank you. My photos though are pretty bad. The model actually looks a lot better in person. Well, Jim, if the unit looks better in person than in the pics, that's got to be one heck of a great looking loco!! I don't know how you keep the projects going, but you do some d@#m fine modleing.
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Post by calzephyr on Nov 27, 2012 18:34:26 GMT -8
Thank you. My photos though are pretty bad. The model actually looks a lot better in person. Well, Jim, if the unit looks better in person than in the pics, that's got to be one heck of a great looking loco!! I don't know how you keep the projects going, but you do some d@#m fine modleing. Jim I have to agree with Mike, the model looks very good in pictures and like you have said, probably even better in person. Larry
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Post by mlehman on Nov 27, 2012 19:43:40 GMT -8
SNIP All lighting is Minitronics 1.5v bulbs. LED's suck pond water when used for Mars lights. LED's are good for bright headlights but are near impossible to use on dual light Mars (upper clear, lower red) without the use of light tubes. SNIP Jim, This is my favorite loco among this group of your models. I'm not a big fan of E-units (the Rio Grande never had any) but that is a sharp looking loco. BTW, I've got several Genesis Fs that will be getting their headlights reworked in the not too distant future. I'm planning on using dual SMD LEDs on at least a couple of them as an experiment. I just need to figure a slick way to mount them together at the appropriate spacing. Right now, I'm thinking about using styrene rod sized to fit inside the headlight housing from the rear, with a pair of holes drilled in it for the LED leads and to maintain correct spacing. Tack the LEDs in place with canopy glue and then it all depends on what the decoder can do with it.
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Post by buffalobill on Nov 28, 2012 16:03:22 GMT -8
Very nice, looks fine in pictures! Bill
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2012 9:37:19 GMT -8
SNIP All lighting is Minitronics 1.5v bulbs. LED's suck pond water when used for Mars lights. LED's are good for bright headlights but are near impossible to use on dual light Mars (upper clear, lower red) without the use of light tubes. SNIP Jim, This is my favorite loco among this group of your models. I'm not a big fan of E-units (the Rio Grande never had any) but that is a sharp looking loco. BTW, I've got several Genesis Fs that will be getting their headlights reworked in the not too distant future. I'm planning on using dual SMD LEDs on at least a couple of them as an experiment. I just need to figure a slick way to mount them together at the appropriate spacing. Right now, I'm thinking about using styrene rod sized to fit inside the headlight housing from the rear, with a pair of holes drilled in it for the LED leads and to maintain correct spacing. Tack the LEDs in place with canopy glue and then it all depends on what the decoder can do with it. Mark, works full time for my LHS doing sound, light and DCC installations in models customers models. So the man has pretty much worked with every brand of decoder, bulb, LED and models from plastic to $$$$ brass. The store took a Athearn Genesis Highliner F7A and converted it from the Athearn factory light bulbs to LED's for test purposes. The Highliners headlight castings are designed for bulbs. Mark told me that for headlight purposes, LED's must illuminate through a lens for projection, otherwise its just a bright light spraying light in all directions. He made lenses for the Highliners housings and then attached an LED to each lens. It was a involved installation, far beyond my highly limited electronic abilities.
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Post by mlehman on Nov 29, 2012 11:44:26 GMT -8
SNIP Mark, works full time for my LHS doing sound, light and DCC installations in models customers models. So the man has pretty much worked with every brand of decoder, bulb, LED and models from plastic to $$$$ brass. The store took a Athearn Genesis Highliner F7A and converted it from the Athearn factory light bulbs to LED's for test purposes. The Highliners headlight castings are designed for bulbs. Mark told me that for headlight purposes, LED's must have illuminate through a lens for projection, otherwise its just a bright light spraying light in all directions. He made lenses for the Highliners housings and then attached an LED to each lens. It was a involved installation, far beyond my highly limited electronic abilities. Jim, That's actually useful to know. I was looking at them myself and thinking this could be an issue. Good good to know someone's been down this path. All that light will spatter off the back of the lens and round and round in the reflector assembly before glaring out the front if it's set back. I think the key is getting the insert to place the LEDs in close proximity to back of the lens is the trick, if it can be done. I think I'll just skip version 1.0 and go straight to v. 1.1. This will require two pieces of smaller tubing to attach to the front of the larger styrene rod insert to act as lampholders (LEDholders ;D?). The whole affair will then need to slip in and rest in contact with the back of the lens. The only issue is that the factory reflector/lamp assembly is pretty cool when at rest. Doubt I can get that to look as good, but it might turn out OK if I size the tubing right. When I get around to this, I will post up. On the other hand, maybe some sharp detail part house will figure it out and start producing a pre-molded part before i get around to kludging at mine? i can only hope... It's sometimes experimental railroading here, but if I fail, it's not because I'm not trying...;D
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2012 11:57:02 GMT -8
Jim, That's actually useful to know. I was looking at them myself and thinking this could be an issue. Good good to know someone's been down this path. All that light will spatter off the back of the lens and round and round in the reflector assembly before glaring out the front if it's set back. The light spraying around inside the nose is the epic fail of the LED's in the latest Proto E8/9's from Walthers. Walthers placed four honking big LED's mounted on the chassis to illuminate the number boards, Mars and headlight. They make no attempt at twin sealed beams in the lower housing and no attempt at upper clear and lower red in the upper headlight housing. To add to the model's lighting woes, because of the four miniature suns, they have painted the inside of the shell silver to try to keep the light from shining through the body shell! It still does somewhat shine through....Then you have to mount a shield on the chassis above the coupler to keep the light from shining down on the track, like an old Tyco! The cherry on the top is because of all candlepower in the nose, light still leaks back into the cab giving us a warm reminder of old Athearn Blue Box F's with campfire in the cab lighting.....
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Post by milgentrains on Nov 29, 2012 13:49:39 GMT -8
What caused the weathering patterns on the North American Cold Storage building in the prototype pix?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2012 14:09:40 GMT -8
What caused the weathering patterns on the North American Cold Storage building in the prototype pix? Brick replacement. The air in the industrial years in Chicago wasn't the best. It turned brick and granite black and the cold and wet made the brick crumble. Many of the old industrial buildings would have to have the outer layer of brick worked on during the late 60's and 70's to replace loose and or crumbling brick.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2012 14:16:04 GMT -8
Of the buildings around the tracks in the photo, the freight house and North American Cold Storage were both torn down long ago, replaced with high end condos. The bridge has also been replaced. The only building in the area of the tracks still standing is Cassidy Tire.
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Post by milgentrains on Nov 29, 2012 14:32:54 GMT -8
Breathing back then must have been hazardus to your health. I remember the air being kinda ripe in Baltimore back then.
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