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Post by fr8kar on Feb 22, 2021 10:12:44 GMT -8
FYI: the left hand roof in photograph 4 is backwards.
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Post by Christian on Feb 22, 2021 10:54:56 GMT -8
FYI: the left hand roof in photograph 4 is backwards. So's the main roof. they'll get fixed before cementing. |
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Post by fr8kar on Feb 22, 2021 11:10:33 GMT -8
Cool, just trying to save you some heartache! I do the same thing all the time.
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Post by lvrr325 on Feb 22, 2021 12:00:07 GMT -8
Probably the lazy way to model that curve over is see if Summit would send you an extra piece of roof you could cut into strips and lay one or two over each edge. I'm going to go out on a limb and say they simplified the roof ends for the model.
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Post by Christian on Feb 23, 2021 12:29:30 GMT -8
Chapter 14 – Up on the Roof
With apologies to the Drifters we continue on the front roof. If you’ve been following comments you’ll notice that Ryan spotted one of the roof pieces upside down. If you can get light that makes a shadow it is really easy to tell which side is up. Photograph one illustrates which side is up. Ending on an even tile means that the drive-up roof pieces need to be trimmed or built out. I wish I’d thought of this earlier. The upside down piece Ryan noticed was the one I notched. There’s enough tile material to do everything in the kits instructions, but not much more. Not enough for a new drive-up roof to eliminate the notch. So I had to trim the width of the sub-roof. Photo two. It turns out I’d not glued the roof pieces in place so the trimming was easy. Of course the perfectly matched cornice boards were no longer matched. Putty time. The instructions indicate that the main roof should overhang the sub-roof by one eighth inch. All the photos indicate that the tiles, real or synthetic, ended a couple inches beyond the sub roof. Photograph three. That did not work out to be a whole tile. Although I could have added onto the sub-roof it already was extending more than I would have chosen. I didn’t want to cut the sub-roof. Because that would have messed up the cornice work. So I left a third of a tile remaining, but I put the cut at the top of the roof which draws the eye less. Photo four is the dry fit of the roof pieces. Photograph five is all the roof and trim parts. The sample at the top is a test of Tamiya cement. Tomorrow is the day I cement the roofs in place. I am inclined to use spray cement. But, not set on that right now. I decided to paint the roof pieces before cementing them in place so that I don’t have to fool with masking. Nor risk a brush slip. Actually, leaving the plastic sheet as is works pretty well for late synthetic Taco Bell roofs. For the base I chose a light rust paint from Vallejo. Photo six. It’s close to the tile sheet color. Photograph seven shows all the roof and roof trim parts laid out on deli wax paper. I want orange terra-cotta so there will be more coats. But that is for the next chapter. Now it’s lecture time. Take out your notebooks because there might be a quiz on this material. The paint brush in photo six I purchased in the fall of 1969. It’s getting splittie, but still usable on large rough surfaces. I confess that I’ve never met a paintbrush that I didn’t want to take home. And once home they are well cared for and will outlast me. Mostly. Photo eight shows the most common mistake in brush care. Leaving the brush standing on the bristles for longer than it takes to open the next bottle of paint. If I’m going to use another brush the first brush is thoroughly swished in water or thinner. Then laid on it’s side until needed again or until the session has ended and it gets a through cleaning. When a session has ended all the brushes got to the kitchen for cleaning. Photograph nine. Oil or water paints it’s the same. Remember they have already been swished in thinner. Brush soap is in the little tin. There are lots of brands of brush soap making lots of claims. They all work fine. Dish soap is OK, but lacks conditioners. You work up a lather and then work the brush in your palm. When the foam is clear, you’re done. Next brush. All the brushes lay flat to dry. Do not stick them in a can until dry. You don’t want liquid to run down into the ferrule. The very best way to dry a brush is to hang it, but I don’t have a means of doing that. Next up. Finish the front roof. Maybe!         
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Post by Christian on Feb 24, 2021 6:27:15 GMT -8
Chapter 15 – Walk right In, sit right down
With apologies to the Rooftop Singers we move along with the front roof. We’re almost done with it. This chapter will have a bunch of photographs that all look about the same. I mentioned that I wanted an orangy terra cotta and that’s how we start this chapter. Photograph one. I heavily dry-brushed the roof pieces with an orangy clay color. All the following steps were done on a piece of deli wrap and dry placed on the shell for the photos. I followed that dry-brush with a dark, oily wash. Photo two. Photograph three. I forgot to take one photo. First I brushed brick color pigment from the top down. Then I brushed rust pigment from the bottom up. That is what is in this photograph. Photo four. These are the materials I used to color the front roof. Photograph five. Finally! The tile roofs are glued in place. Eagle eyed readers will notice that the roof has changed. Yep. I decided that I didn’t like the looks of it. Fast food restaurants are very clean. Outside walls are regularly washed and painted as are visible roofs. I felt that the roof was now showing too much age and too much environmental impact. A great thing about using pigments (and pastels) is that they are removable. Just hold the part under running water. I actually was prepared to remove all the finish and start again with bare plastic. That’s also easy with acrylics in the first day or so before the cure sets in. Warm water and a blast of Windex will strip off the paint. But I didn’t go that far. When the pigment was off some of the dark wash also came off. I decided to let the roof pieces dry and take a look. I did and the result is what you’ll see from now on out. Photo six show the beginning of the side trim tiles. On the prototypes that use clay tiles or imitation clay tiles these edge tiles are two-thirds round. I didn’t find a way to do that. (I know that as soon as I post this I’ll get seventeen easy suggestions that are now too late!) I used strips cut from leftover roofing tiles. Because I don’t want to use CA this close to the windows (fogging) I went with Martha Stewart gel. It doesn’t grab very quick so I needed a way to hold things other than me sitting very still for twenty minutes. (No one has ever succeeded keeping me still for that long! School and church were interesting growing up.) So I used clamps tightened only enough to not fall off. That didn’t work on the other side because the clamps started to pull the first side off. Photograph seven shows a timeless modeling solution. Butt a couple of bottles against the parts. And photo eight brings us up to date. I’ll clip the ends after a couple of hours setting time for the cement. And do the ridge piece on the drive-up. Next up, I think. The back roofs. These are altogether different since they are out of the public view for the most part.        
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Post by sd40dash2 on Feb 24, 2021 6:33:08 GMT -8
 Great tool! |
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Post by kmaster on Feb 24, 2021 6:36:46 GMT -8
Very nice, coming along really good.
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Post by Christian on Feb 24, 2021 7:31:25 GMT -8
Commonly called a "bevel gauge." Or a "sliding" bevel gauge. It's a cheap carpenters tool. I've had the itty bitty modelmakers version for fifty or sixty years. I went looking online and miniature bevel gauges are now pricy and rare. MicroMark has one only as part of a set of very pricy (to me) measuring tools. I haven't done it, but I'd think a couple of strips of styrene or brass and a small paper clamp at the pivot would do the same thing. |
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Post by Christian on Feb 25, 2021 14:18:34 GMT -8
Chapter 16 – Gonna meet you on the rooftop
Today’s apology is to the Lovin' Spoonful. The front and drive-through roofs fit with tabs and slots. Firm and no placement issues. Not true of the rear roofs. The Summit Customcuts instructions leave the installation of these roof pieces until almost the end of construction. The supplied support pieces for the larger rear roof would have been easy to install while the walls were flat. Now they require some gymnastics and hand dexterity that I don’t have. The smaller roof has no supports and no locator points. I spent most of today’s working time figuring out an approach. I wasn’t firm on my idea so I left off committing cement until the next chapter. I did take photos illustrating the issues and presenting a solution. I had a head-slap moment while I was processing today’s photographs. That idea is for tomorrow. Today will be about getting the roof pieces ready. I cut new roof pieces from black 0.040” styrene. Photograph one. I won’t have to paint black under the roof and asphalt on top by using black styrene. I like this stuff for scratch building models because I don’t have to worry about the insides nor translucency. It isn’t as smooth scoring and cutting as the white. It takes more force to snap. And it will grab a knife. I scored and snapped the pieces I needed. Photo two. Since I cut the sidewalls shorter I needed to adjust the length of the roof. But I didn’t do that now. I must have had a premonition. Photograph three. One side of the black sheet is duller. I used a 400 grit block to thoroughly scuff this side, making my strokes run front to back of the roof. On the narrow roof I sanded along the length. This narrow roof not only has a fitting problem, but it also has a prototype question. Lots of photos I see do not have the second wall behind the mission style false facade. They do have the raised brick area on the side walls behind the facade, but it is just ornamental. On those restaurants the main roof runs up to the mission facade. I am going to include the narrow roof on my version so it went through the same finishing steps as the main roof. I marked off the roof in 4X8 sections. I’m no roofing guy, but I see this kind of divisions in photographs of commercial flat roofs. Also I see just lengthwise seams and no seams. I’m choosing an asphalt finish, although I also see white, gray and other colors. Photo four. I scored my markings and then used a chisel blade to shave off the burrs so that the slits wouldn't close. After shaving I did another sanding and the result is shown in photograph five. I’ll spare you my pigment/pastel lecture but that was the next step. I used AK Interactive Asphalt Road Dirt and smeared it on with a finger going along the length of the roof. I then wiped it with a paper towel. The hard edges are made by laying a steel ruler along the seem and then firmly wiping with the towel. Photo six. One good reason for pigments is in photograph seven. I BRUSH painted the pieces with AKI Ultra Matte Varnish. Note that the pigments survived brush strokes and developed some new streaks and textures. Ultra matte makes Dullcoat seem glossy. It is water thin like Future and can be sprayed, brushed or dipped. That’s it for today. I think tomorrow with be a straight forward roof installation. We’re coming to the end of the printed instructions, but remember the eternal question; Do you ever have to make up your mind?
      
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Post by Christian on Feb 27, 2021 8:03:51 GMT -8
Chapter 17 – My roof's got a hole in it and I might drown
Roof songs won’t last much longer with today's apologies going out to The Serendipity Singers.
The problem I had yesterday (Now two days ago. Lots of glue setting time.) was locating supports that the roof could lay on. The head-slap was that I could attach more thickness to the parapet walls and the roof could come from underneath against those new pieces. And so I did. I thought the parapet looked too thin anyway. So I cut 0.020” strips from black styrene to the height necessary to locate the roof UNDER the low wall at the front. This added a bit of depth to the kit roof. I think the parapets are too low even after adding to the height. All the stuff on fast food roofs isn’t attractive and deep parapets are one way of hiding the stuff. First I scraped away the paint around the existing parapet so that the Tamiya cement could grab. This was a quick job with a curved blade. For fifty plus years I tossed the curved blades that occasionally appeared with new X-Actos into the trash. A couple years ago I watched a YouTube modeling video where the builder used a curved blade. Now that I could see what I could do with a curved blade I purchased an Olfa curved blade for one of my Olfa knives. This scraping job was a flash with the curved blade. Photograph one. (Olfa knives and blades have replaced all others. X-Acto, Mascot, Gyro, et al are a distant second. Particularly the blades. X-Acto owners of the month screwed up the blades, big time. Olfa is first and foremost a blade company. They invented Snap-Off blades and rolling blades. They know their steel and how to sharpen it.) I cut 0.020” strips for the sides and back parapets. Photo two. I sanded and finished these the same as the roof pieces. Photograph three. I cemented the side parapet strips in place with Tamiya. For once I thought ahead and had the roof laying below the side strips before gluing them in place. I couldn’t have gotten the roof in otherwise. Photo four. I cut two quarter inch square strips of EVA foam to put under the roof in order to shove it up onto the parapet pieces. This is the same thing I did with the roof on the Atomic Cafe. It worked then and it seemed like I wouldn’t have to learn something new if I just went with it! I smeared construction adhesive on two sides of the EVA. Weldbond would have worked fine, but I had a tube of Loctite PowerGrab All Purpose from a household job and was curious. PowerGrab requires one porous surface which is the EVA. As you can see in photograph five I impaled the foam on sharp tweezers. I shoved the foam, glue, and tweezers into the shell and pressed the roof in place. Photo six. A couple of hours later I cemented the rear parapet strip to the wall. Photograph seven. I cut a 0.010” strip for the front wall of the lower roof and used some dabs of CA to cement it down and cement the roof piece to the strip and also to the low wall. Photo eight. The skinny roof without any support was fixed by cutting a piece of EVA foam that rested on the roof stub and against the low wall. Photograph nine and photo ten. I find that a single edged razor blade works best cutting strips of EVA. If the strips had to be dead square I’d use another method. But these roof support pieces could be sloppy. I used the PowerGrab again on this piece. Handy tip #734. If you habitually put your baggie scrap with wet CA in one particular place, don’t suddenly put it somewhere else. CA on a baggie can be wet for an hour or so. Photograph eleven. Photos twelve and thirteen are beauty shots of the roofs. We are almost done with the kit as provided by Summit Customcuts. Signs and awning substitutes are the biggies so far as the provided kit. Of course there will other things happening as we get this Taco Bell open for customers!             
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Post by lvrr325 on Feb 27, 2021 9:24:25 GMT -8
Getting close enough to be able to smell the food cooking in there.
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Post by Christian on Feb 27, 2021 10:07:44 GMT -8
Getting close enough to be able to smell the food cooking in there. It's August. Put on your hottest Sonny Crocket clothes, dub a cassette of Phil Collins and Madonna, hop in your 240Z and come on down. |
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Post by NS4122 on Feb 27, 2021 10:53:59 GMT -8
The smell must be intense inside without any (visible) exhaust fans or A/C. Getting close enough to be able to smell the food cooking in there. |
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Post by riogrande on Feb 27, 2021 13:05:20 GMT -8
It was. I used to fry the taco and tostado shells in the deep fryer.
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Post by lvrr325 on Feb 27, 2021 15:00:44 GMT -8
I'd be more likely to turn up in a Trans Am than a Z-car, otherwise... wait I might need a mullet for that.
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Post by Christian on Feb 27, 2021 17:33:43 GMT -8
The smell must be intense inside without any (visible) exhaust fans or A/C. Patience!  |
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Post by Christian on Feb 28, 2021 11:44:49 GMT -8
Chapter 18 – Signs
No cute lead-in today. Just about signs – the two that say “Taco Bell.” And yes, I got slapped by the klutz stick again with this simple project. When last we visited the signs I was using a sheet I had made as a source for the window posters. With a comment that the street post and building signs were not yet sized. I made my on signs because I thought the label sheet of signs furnished by Summit Customcuts was dull. Plus the posters were not suitable for 1985. Photograph one. I cut out these two signs several times last night and this morning. This photo is from last night when all was bright and shining. I used scissors to cut out the signs because a knife causes chipping along the cut. Well known to paper model builders. (Paper and card model building is a huge hobby worldwide. I wouldn’t be surprised if it is a lot bigger hobby than trains.) The dark scissors are sold for scrap-booking and other paper cutting needs. Paper dulls common scissors quickly. The small scissors I accumulated somewhere and sometime. I didn’t actually use them on this model. Photo two is a reminder that cutting with scissors and cutting with a band saw is the same. Cut close to the line, then cut to the line. Photograph three. Nope, they didn’t fit. I had intended to leave a naked styrene border around the printed area to simulate the narrow border on the prototypes. That wouldn’t have worked because of the change in level. I’ll spare you the narrative but this time I measured with a caliper and made the signs the correct size and including the thin border and a cut line. As well as a sizing line if any of you need mid 80s Taco Bell signs.. Printed out on glossy brochure paper. Photo four. I sanded the back of the cutouts to remove the gloss. I also sanded the plastic sign bases to provide some tooth. Photograph five is representative of the next few steps which didn’t leave me time for photos. I used CA to mount the signs. Again, a holdover from card modeling. Photo paper doesn’t like white glue and white glue – even Weldbond – to styrene is iffy. I use a slow CA so I was pretty sure I could do the next steps. (I could – that’s not where klutzdom struck.) I worked on my silicon mat that I use with my glue gun. I put a couple of drops of CA on the plastic. I spread it with one of my silicone clay-sculpting tools. Most glues don’t stick to silicon. I lined up the paper parts on the CA. I had a tiny bit of wiggle room. I folded the mat over them. I used a round pencil to roll over the laminate. Photo six. All three pieces looked great. It was now late in the evening for me. I know better than to work on anything delicate this late. But, the sign laminate worked so well that I decided to paint the dark brown edges. Too late I remembered why paper modelers don’t paint on the surface of photo paper. I didn’t intend to paint on the surface, but my brush hand was not steady and brown slopped onto the printed signs. Being inkjet paper, the paint dried instantly. I couldn't wipe it off or wash it off or anything. It looked bad. I thought I could use white paint to fix the lines. Nope. My hand was not steady. I stopped and was grateful that I had three sets of the signs in this printed sheet. No photos of the mess. This morning I sanded the messy mounted signs until only bits of the print remained. In other words, I sanded off the coating down to paper. Because styrene was out of the picture I was sure that Weldbond would now do the job. I cut out a new set of signs. My third set. This would prove that sometimes TomBow pens do NOT act properly. I was coloring the cuts to match the painted styrene and the darned pen left a look like chipping on the white sign borders. I cut out my forth set. The Weldbond went well and the rolling gave a flat, tight sign. Finished with the laminates, I quickly used a couple of drops of Weldbond to fasten the sign to the middle of the arch, clipped the street sign to a temporary base and shot the final photo for today. Photograph seven. This brings us to the end of the kit instructions. The instructions suggest using Walthers parts for the stuff on the back of the roof and that’s what we will do next. Photograph eight is the sheet of signs I used. The posters right of the center-line are likely not accurate for 1985, but are of some vintage. The posters and neon sign left of the center-line I verified as being used in 1985. The JPG is hosted on Imgr and a download came to me in the same size as the original. I tried Google Photos, but Google resized the photo. EDITThe original sheet of signs has been replaced with a new sheet which includes signs used at the end of the build.        
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Post by drolsen on Feb 28, 2021 11:58:07 GMT -8
Christian, this is a fantastic project and a really interesting thread! It really makes me want to jump into a structure model, but I'm a pretty long way from that stage in my modeling plans. Thanks a lot for sharing all of these detailed steps.
Dave
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Post by sd40dash2 on Feb 28, 2021 13:15:41 GMT -8
Wow very kind of you to share the signs with us. Are you close to being finished already? Seems like the thread just started. I suppose a key part of this type of structure is detailing after final placement. I'm thinking of things like useless planters and no-maintenance trees and wood chip landscaping, a phone booth, the parking lot, cars, garbage cans etc. Also, the kitchen area looks extremely small but I believe you selectively compressed that on purpose when you determined the footprint upfront.
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Post by Christian on Feb 28, 2021 13:33:22 GMT -8
Wow very kind of you to share the signs with us. Are you close to being finished already? Seems like the thread just started. I suppose a key part of this type of structure is detailing after final placement. I'm thinking of things like useless planters and no-maintenance trees and wood chip landscaping, a phone booth, the parking lot, cars, garbage cans etc. Also, the kitchen area looks extremely small but I believe you selectively compressed that on purpose when you determined the footprint upfront. Yep, yep, yep, yep, yep, yep, yep, yep, and yep. I also have back area roof to deal with, a couple things on the back wall even though other this this thread it won't be seen. Tomorrow I intend to do my punch list so there likely won't be a post unless I get into doing the roof. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Feb 28, 2021 17:36:38 GMT -8
Thanks for the reply. I look forward to any additional posts in this thread.
Unsolicited comment about the cars: remember that the cars in your parking lot should not all be shiny hot rods with blinding chrome wheels, nor should they all be brand new. Lots of 10-15 year old cars still on the road at any given time, plus the usual contractor vans and tool trucks on a coffee break for your restaurant. Also perhaps a food service (ie. Cisco, GFS etc) delivery truck unloading in the back or a garbage truck at the dumpster. I have rarely seen model railway auto parking lots that convincingly capture this spread of aged cars and commercial vehicles. Most vehicles on the road at any given time are not brand new cars! </rant off>
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Post by Christian on Mar 2, 2021 6:11:20 GMT -8
Chapter 19 – A New Beginning
This is an odd point in the construction. We are done with the Summit Customcuts instructions and kit. Now we’re moving into detailing the restaurant and building the site. It’s sorta like starting all over again. Except no kit and no instructions. Well, sorta no kit. What we have are lots of bags of parts from Walthers, Rix/Pikestuff, Noch, Busch, EveModels, Preiser, Williams Bros, and other detailing parts makers. Plus some raw materials and scenery materials. And some scratch work. (That’s a big MAYBE on the Williams Bros. Those who have been around a while know what I mean. Right now I have good intentions.) We are going to start with the roof. Frankly, its naked. Nothing is provided in the kit beyond a suggestion to use Walthers #933-3733 Roof Details Kit. As I write that kit is in stock with Walthers. I used earlier versions of two roof detail kits long out of Walthers stock. But the current kit supplies all that is needed. I started researching Taco Bell roofs almost from the get-go. Particularly looking for photographs. Not much popped up for this era of restaurant. There was a discussion on TrainBoard in 2007. No Taco Bell specific photos, but a photo of a restaurant roof calling out the machinery. Several comments from folks in the know gave me the information I needed to look at what I could find in the way of Taco Bell roof photographs. On an earlier restaurant project friends scoffed, pointed, and made faces about the really big HVAC unit I put on the roof. What I found is that Taco Bell as well as most other fast food restaurants almost always have TWO really big HVAC units on the roof as well as additional cooler and freezer units. As well as a couple of BIG vents. All mounted on concrete pads of various thicknesses. Roof drains and lots of electrical conduct make up the rest of the stuff on the roofs. In my rambles though restaurant roof photos I found a lot of pools of standing water. I’m not going to do that. You might want to! Photographs one, two and three are the roof of the 1990 “Aztec Temple” style restaurants. White roofing membrane is nice, but I can’t find evidence of it being used on mid seventies Taco Bells which is what the kit presents. Note the deep parapets which this model won’t accommodate. Also notice the concrete pads on which the equipment is mounted. Photo four is a find. It is a Google Satellite view of this style of Taco Bell and still exists. In Canada, none the less. Count the HVAC units. Three big ones. Note that this restaurant doesn’t have the narrow raised area behind the mission front. With this gone it is about proportionate to my chopped model. The site is similar to my plan. Mine chops off with the sidewalk in the back and doesn't have the pass lane beside the drive-up lane. Photograph five is the contents of the Walthers roof kit. Photo six. I’ve cleaned up and am ready to start work as soon as I’ve finished with this posting.      
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Post by sd40dash2 on Mar 2, 2021 6:42:21 GMT -8
Awesome, I love it! Well done on finding those ever-elusive roof shots.
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Post by kmaster on Mar 2, 2021 7:21:23 GMT -8
The building looks awesome!!! Roof details should be a bit fun because that is where a lot of creative license can come in.
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Post by Christian on Mar 3, 2021 7:16:00 GMT -8
Chapter 20 – The Best Laid Plans
Yesterday’s model building session did not go as intended. But, what else is new! My intention was to furnish the back roof with vents and HVAC machines. I pulled out my earlier Walthers HVAC sprues and started clipping. Except, one of the sizes I wanted seemed to be missing. I tried a larger HVAC unit, but nope! Photograph one. I couldn’t figure out where the missing units from the sprue had gone so I started rooting though my finished projects photographs folder. Photo two. Here’s one. Photograph three. Here’s another. Those were the size I wanted, smaller than the middle sized unit in photograph one. I spaced out what I had on the roof minus the HVAC that would go close to the mission facade. It looked like it would be OK with the missing smaller unit. So I put in an order. Because I want to paint all the roof details at the same time I stopped work on the roof at this point. I’ll shift gears and do something else on my punch list today. Isn’t this a short post!    
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Post by riogrande on Mar 3, 2021 7:43:14 GMT -8
The cubic shaped roof item looks like a swamp cooler. We had one of those on our old school (no dining room, no drive thru) Taco Bell. It was during the summer when it was completely removed for servicing that a fellow employee was shooting bottle rockets out through the opening. After that summer he left to do an EE degree at Stanford Univ and then went to work for Microsoft. Imagine he is worth a fortune now considering stock options over time from back then.
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Post by wp8thsub on Mar 3, 2021 20:21:56 GMT -8
One of the items on the roof should probably be a kitchen grease fan.  Dimensional Modeling Concepts has these in three different sizes. dmcrrproducts.com/shop/page/4/ |
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Post by amtk1007 on Mar 7, 2021 4:01:22 GMT -8
I believe Alloy Forms may have made some appropriate HVAC units that might fit.
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Post by Christian on Mar 7, 2021 5:11:29 GMT -8
I believe Alloy Forms may have made some appropriate HVAC units that might fit. Yes, they do have one under the SSL parts that would have worked. Since they are no longer listed by Walthers Alloy Forms and many other detail parts brands just aren't on my think list. |
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