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Post by TBird1958 on Mar 28, 2021 8:53:07 GMT -8
The coolness that was the Penn Central on the Rio Grande. #My'70sTrip. X58 362184 moving east in 1977, the model is, of course from Tangent, weathering such a nice car is a challenge, this was done with oil washes and chalks, plus a little airbrushed dust. TTBX 94180 also eastbound after a trip to the west coast. Empties didn't always move east as a complete train, the D&RGW just made it a point to expedite their movement as auto traffic was good revenue. Note GP40-2 #3096 running long hood first while shoving on the caboose of an afternoon westbound. This model is an older Overland piece, I'll be adding a load to it in the coming weeks. The Bowser U25B thread inspired me to dig out an old friend that I made back in the '90s, while nowhere near the quality of Liz's fine work it was a fun project, I made the frame and soldered the handrails from brass stock. Good times! Have a great Sunday, Mark Hills
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Post by cr9617 on Mar 28, 2021 9:55:50 GMT -8
I was inspired to build this car after fr8kar posted his excellent model a few weeks ago. To my surprise I actually had everything I needed already except the combines. Luckily I was able to source a couple from Buffalo Road Imports. The car is an Intermountain model with Plano cut levers added. I noticed in some photos the combines were sometimes accompanied by crates so I scratch built a couple to go between the machines. Even though they are supposed to be new, to me, the combines looked too toy like glossy and fresh out of the package. So I hit them with some panel line accent for some depth and shadowing and sprayed them with Tamiya semi gloss to knock down the shine a little. It doesn't really show up well here but it's a nice contrast against the flat finish on the flatcar. Unfortunately the ladder on one machine came glued on crooked and I couldn't straighten it. Have a good weekend all. IMG_4795 by cr9617, on Flickr IMG_4798 by cr9617, on Flickr
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Post by TBird1958 on Mar 28, 2021 10:06:53 GMT -8
That was a pretty inspirational post by Ryan, got me too, even if the machine is a bit new.
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Post by fr8kar on Mar 28, 2021 12:25:24 GMT -8
You guys are crushing it! Those look great!
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Post by csxt8400 on Mar 28, 2021 13:28:49 GMT -8
Killer flats, the both of you. I've heard good things with the tamiya panel line washes. I think it will be next in my purchases of weathering material.
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Post by simulatortrain on Mar 28, 2021 15:35:45 GMT -8
My second B&O box is done, a M69b based on a Branchline kit with Moloco roof.
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Post by Funnelfan on Mar 28, 2021 16:25:24 GMT -8
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Mar 28, 2021 18:41:46 GMT -8
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jako
Junior Member
Posts: 73
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Post by jako on Mar 29, 2021 0:39:23 GMT -8
Atlas Swift Reefer
Greetings Sven
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Post by danpik on Mar 29, 2021 3:12:38 GMT -8
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Post by fr8kar on Mar 29, 2021 5:29:08 GMT -8
I'd love to see a how-to on your process, Dan.
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Post by danpik on Mar 29, 2021 6:09:44 GMT -8
I'd love to see a how-to on your process, Dan. What are you wanting to see? The painting or the casting or all of it from start to finish.
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Post by TBird1958 on Mar 29, 2021 6:41:04 GMT -8
I'd love to see a how-to on your process, Dan. What are you wanting to see? The painting or the casting or all of it from start to finish. Just seconding the request, you've cast these? Way cool! Brings back memories of setting up a bunch for one of my racks.
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Post by fr8kar on Mar 29, 2021 7:37:33 GMT -8
I'd love to see a how-to on your process, Dan. What are you wanting to see? The painting or the casting or all of it from start to finish. Any part of it you'd like to share. I would like to see your casting process for sure.
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Post by danpik on Mar 29, 2021 9:45:47 GMT -8
What are you wanting to see? The painting or the casting or all of it from start to finish. Just seconding the request, you've cast these? Way cool! Brings back memories of setting up a bunch for one of my racks. Looks like you have a pretty good handle on the process. I love the window vans and the suburban. Where did you get those? Dan
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Post by riogrande on Mar 29, 2021 10:06:52 GMT -8
They are Trident models. Beware, the vans won't fit on the bottom level of the open Genesis autoracks.
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Post by TBird1958 on Mar 29, 2021 10:42:00 GMT -8
Dan, Mine are Trident models that I either already had or picked up on Fleabay, my painting process was likely similar to yours as well, I did some 1" silver stripes for the chrome strips but it's hard to tell -the model was ridiculously expensive to finish, even at an average price of $12.00 apiece there's $120.00 just in the load. I'm just digging how good yours look and will look forward to whatever else of the project you share with us.
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Post by slowfreight on Mar 29, 2021 15:25:33 GMT -8
No finished work lately, but SPF is also about progress shots, right? Got this unit ready for the paint shop...I now have an NJDoT GP40P, converted from an SP GP40P-2.
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Post by trainboyy on Mar 29, 2021 18:16:19 GMT -8
Got a trio of Conrail units running on the HD&O club layout in Union. That old Atlas unit sandwiched in the middle is gonna need a lot of work...
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Post by edgecrusher on Mar 30, 2021 7:02:34 GMT -8
No finished work lately, but SPF is also about progress shots, right? Got this unit ready for the paint shop...I now have an NJDoT GP40P, converted from an SP GP40P-2. Thats fantastic! What all did you have to do to get it to non-2 status?
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Post by slowfreight on Mar 30, 2021 8:31:51 GMT -8
No finished work lately, but SPF is also about progress shots, right? Got this unit ready for the paint shop...I now have an NJDoT GP40P, converted from an SP GP40P-2. Thats fantastic! What all did you have to do to get it to non-2 status? -Cannonized cab/nose/subbase, which really helped with backdating -Filled water sight glass on engineer side -Removed extended-range dynamic brakes -Swapped sideframes for Blomberg B -Filled in frame notches on side sill -Removed ribs from blower housing, as well as other minor details on clean air room The biggest difference that I couldn't correct was the air filters on the clean air room are too far forward, and it won't be noticeable under a coat of Royal Blue. I did a lot of other work besides the Dash-2 backdating. Getting the CNJ-specific details on the long hood end were actually much more challenging, with the three separate number boards and a steam generator hatch with a different configuration. I shaved the gaskets off an old Atlas GP7 shell for the number boards, and glued them to the sides of the shell.
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Post by rockisland652 on Mar 30, 2021 19:19:50 GMT -8
John Fenske's heavily weathered old Proto locomotive. She came to us with a blown speaker, so I replaced the old mini oval with a Bowser Dual Cube. Well...she has one of those WowSound decoders. Never played with one before. I thought the Tsu2 had CV's. This one made the Sprog gag. After reading the TCS manuals, I reprogrammed her to run smoother and quite a bit closer to how a prototype Geep runs. Sounds good. Runs much better now. A shame she really can't run with anything else due to her orphan decoder, but she runs ok nonetheless by herself. She is a classic example of why I really dislike lit number boards, especially when they're connected to the headlight. Meh...she still gets a pass. John Fenske's heavily weathered old Proto locomotives, a GP9 and an old GM&O GP30. Both came to us with blown speakers, so I replaced the old mini oval and one feeble soundchamberless mini-minioval with Bowser Dual Cubes. The GP9 is a WowSound and the GP30 has a TSU2. Both had their volume cut back just a bit both for sound quality and to lessen the chances of another blown speaker. John Fenske's old Proto GP30, as she arrived. The cab had a soundchamberless speaker that could barely be heard. She now makes her presence felt, all properly rebrained and sounded up with a Bowser Dual Cube. That coupler hose just had to go. John Fenske's old Proto GP30, after her conversion She now makes her presence felt, all properly rebrained and sounded up with a Bowser Dual Cube. Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun.
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Mar 30, 2021 21:58:08 GMT -8
John Fenske's heavily weathered old Proto locomotive. She came to us with a blown speaker, so I replaced the old mini oval with a Bowser Dual Cube. Well...she has one of those WowSound decoders. Never played with one before. I thought the Tsu2 had CV's. This one made the Sprog gag. After reading the TCS manuals, I reprogrammed her to run smoother and quite a bit closer to how a prototype Geep runs. Sounds good. Runs much better now. A shame she really can't run with anything else due to her orphan decoder, but she runs ok nonetheless by herself. She is a classic example of why I really dislike lit number boards, especially when they're connected to the headlight. Meh...she still gets a pass. John Fenske's heavily weathered old Proto locomotives, a GP9 and an old GM&O GP30. Both came to us with blown speakers, so I replaced the old mini oval and one feeble soundchamberless mini-minioval with Bowser Dual Cubes. The GP9 is a WowSound and the GP30 has a TSU2. Both had their volume cut back just a bit both for sound quality and to lessen the chances of another blown speaker. John Fenske's old Proto GP30, as she arrived. The cab had a soundchamberless speaker that could barely be heard. She now makes her presence felt, all properly rebrained and sounded up with a Bowser Dual Cube. That coupler hose just had to go. John Fenske's old Proto GP30, after her conversion She now makes her presence felt, all properly rebrained and sounded up with a Bowser Dual Cube. Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun. What headlights are you using? They look fantastic and nice and bright.
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Post by rockisland652 on Mar 31, 2021 12:24:56 GMT -8
John Fenske's old Proto GP30, after her conversion She now makes her presence felt, all properly rebrained and sounded up with a Bowser Dual Cube. Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun. "Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun."
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Mar 31, 2021 21:06:36 GMT -8
John Fenske's old Proto GP30, after her conversion She now makes her presence felt, all properly rebrained and sounded up with a Bowser Dual Cube. Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun. "Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun." I didn't know Athearn offered LED's separately.
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jd
New Member
Posts: 24
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Post by jd on Apr 1, 2021 1:05:45 GMT -8
Great job slowfreight, excellent! Thanks for sharing. For the longest time I have wanted to build a CNJ unit and seeing what you have done has given me the motivation to attempt it. Maybe you can help by answering a couple quick questions. On the long hood, what did you use for the rear number board and what did you have to use for the rear facing classification lights? I know that for the longest time there has been some debate about what shade of blue to use. Which do you think is best, B&O Royal Blue, or C&O Enchantment Blue? Thank You for any help you can give me, and please post any progress photos you might have. Again, great work and thanks! - JD Lane
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Post by slowfreight on Apr 1, 2021 13:54:48 GMT -8
Great job slowfreight, excellent! Thanks for sharing. For the longest time I have wanted to build a CNJ unit and seeing what you have done has given me the motivation to attempt it. Maybe you can help by answering a couple quick questions. On the long hood, what did you use for the rear number board and what did you have to use for the rear facing classification lights? I know that for the longest time there has been some debate about what shade of blue to use. Which do you think is best, B&O Royal Blue, or C&O Enchantment Blue? Thank You for any help you can give me, and please post any progress photos you might have. Again, great work and thanks! - JD Lane Thanks for the interest, JD. Sometimes my interests are so oddball I worry that only crickets are looking at my projects. The rear number board was a block of styrene, and I shaved the gasket from an Atlas U-series cab numberboard. I sectioned it by eye and glued it to the block, having no better measurements than guesstimates off the shell. The class lights were a bear. I glued two pieces of styrene rod side-by-side, and wrapped them in .010 styrene. This gave me the right width to match an EMD class light. I then cut off a piece at roughly the correct angle using a miter saw and sanded it to match the angle and length I could see in photos. Once glued to the side of the shell I filled in the end with spot putty and sanded it smooth. The class light itself came from the Cannon nose kit. I cut off the back with a razor saw and filed it as thin as I could before gluing it to the end. Wish I'd taken more in-progress pics, but this was actually the most difficult part of the project and key to the distinctive look. Shaving the numberboard gaskets was more tedious, but this was more difficult. For those not familiar with these units, CNJ ordered them with strange rear number boards and class lights because they were set up with dual control stands and ran long hood-forward in the evenings. My understanding is that the CNJ units were painted B&O blue, which looks to my eye the same as C&O blue. Either way, by 1978-79 the paint was beat to ^@#$% and it will be weathered enough that I'm more concerned about matching hand-masked nose stripes and paint-out patches. Unfortunately, my first paint job failed due to a problem with the blue paint so I've since stripped the shell and have to repair some resulting damage before moving forward. But I built it once and can build it again.
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jd
New Member
Posts: 24
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Post by jd on Apr 1, 2021 16:26:31 GMT -8
Well at least it's you, me, and the crickets. I'm sure more people are following your project, they just will not admit it. These units get no respect, not even from Athearn who built a model for 3 SP units while ignoring 13 CNJ units. When EMD built them it looks like they walked down the parts isle and grabbed whatever they had laying there and built a locomotive. Very clever how you dealt with the class lights, I had a feeling that is was not going to be easy. Well done. For the scare stripes I was thinking of using trim film decals and cutting the right width, and hopefully that will turn out okay. When you get it done please post photos so that I have an example to aim for. Again, thank you for sharing and good luck with the paint job. Very well done so far. -JD
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Post by slowfreight on Apr 1, 2021 18:06:30 GMT -8
Well at least it's you, me, and the crickets. I'm sure more people are following your project, they just will not admit it. These units get no respect, not even from Athearn who built a model for 3 SP units while ignoring 13 CNJ units. When EMD built them it looks like they walked down the parts isle and grabbed whatever they had laying there and built a locomotive. Very clever how you dealt with the class lights, I had a feeling that is was not going to be easy. Well done. For the scare stripes I was thinking of using trim film decals and cutting the right width, and hopefully that will turn out okay. When you get it done please post photos so that I have an example to aim for. Again, thank you for sharing and good luck with the paint job. Very well done so far. -JD I've collected photos of almost all 13. 4104 never had stripes on the rear, and 4110 never had 'em on the front...don't have shots of both ends, but suspect they didn't have any stripes. Otherwise, every set of stripes was different and not symmetric because they were hand-masked in a hurry. That's where painting them will probably be easier than decaling them. Projects like this are usually just a matter of time and patience--and a little compromise. If I went for 100% accuracy, not only would it take forever, the thing would be more accurate than the cars it will pull.
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Post by rockisland652 on Apr 2, 2021 8:26:22 GMT -8
John Fenske's old Proto GP30, after her conversion She now makes her presence felt, all properly rebrained and sounded up with a Bowser Dual Cube. Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun. "Her bright eyes are Athearn LEDs installed just for fun." I didn't know Athearn offered LED's separately. www.athearn.com/Products/Default.aspx?ProdID=ATHG67143
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