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Post by loco8107 on Sept 1, 2023 7:40:17 GMT -8
Has anyone used something other than the thin and flimsy windows provided for them? A shame the cabs can’t be a little thicker as they’re great kits.
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Post by fishbelly on Sept 1, 2023 7:47:05 GMT -8
I have heard of some folks using slide plate glass. Tape the Cannon piece to it and score with a knife. It is thin enough that you can sand. I am going to give this method a try after I finish the GP30 I am working on and start on my set of 6 axle locomotives. I do not like the Kato cabs on their SD40-2's so I will be using Cannon cabs.
The only issue I ever had and still have with the Cannon cabs is the front and rear wall. They do not want to reman flat and tend to bow inward. Typically I glue them in place and lock them up. Problem there is if a light goes out there is no way to replace it. So I may design a new method of mounting the cabs so they can be removed. Although with how much I do not run my models and how LED's last a long time. I may not have to ever worry about removing the cab. I will be long dead and gone before an LED burns out if installed and protected properly.
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Post by sp8299 on Sept 1, 2023 10:41:50 GMT -8
I have heard of some folks using slide plate glass. Tape the Cannon piece to it and score with a knife. It is thin enough that you can sand. I am going to give this method a try after I finish the GP30 I am working on and start on my set of 6 axle locomotives. I do not like the Kato cabs on their SD40-2's so I will be using Cannon cabs. The only issue I ever had and still have with the Cannon cabs is the front and rear wall. They do not want to reman flat and tend to bow inward. Typically I glue them in place and lock them up. Problem there is if a light goes out there is no way to replace it. So I may design a new method of mounting the cabs so they can be removed. Although with how much I do not run my models and how LED's last a long time. I may not have to ever worry about removing the cab. I will be long dead and gone before an LED burns out if installed and protected properly. After de-spruing the cab front and rear walls, gently sand their edges (I use a fine/medium sanding stick) to eliminate the slight draft angle along their edges. Once the edge is squared up, assemble the cab as usual, and the inward bow should not happen as the cement sets. |
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Post by sp8299 on Sept 1, 2023 10:45:14 GMT -8
Has anyone used something other than the thin and flimsy windows provided for them? A shame the cabs can’t be a little thicker as they’re great kits. As mentioned some folks have used slide glass, but personally the clear plastic they provide has worked fine for me.
Making the cab walls thicker kinda defeats the purpose of them being *thin-wall* cabs that can lend themselves to full interior detailing, open doors, etc. They're delicate to assemble and handle, but once installed onto a model they should withstand normal handling.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Sept 1, 2023 15:09:39 GMT -8
Thoughts on working with microscope cover slides:
They're about .005" thick, which is approaching real glass thickness. So the second (internal) reflective layer is pretty much in the right place. Plus they're flat.
I use a carbide scribing tool, and then snap the piece at the scribe line. Be prepared to ruin several--they're very willful.
There will be generated tiny little LITTLE bits of glass. I recommend vacuuming afterwards or doing it outdoors. Or both.
ALWAYS wear eye protection when you do this. REALLY!
When I get a piece in position, I put a teeny dab of epoxy at several locations.
Ed
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sp3205
Junior Member
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Post by sp3205 on Sept 1, 2023 19:00:48 GMT -8
Has anyone used something other than the thin and flimsy windows provided for them? A shame the cabs can’t be a little thicker as they’re great kits. I'm curious why you think the windows are flimsy? Even before they're installed, they're pretty robust. As are the cabs themselves when assembled properly, which yes, does require removing the very slight draft angle on the front and rear. Just a quick count, but I have somewhere around 15 locos that I've used Cannon cabs, and don't find them the least bit fragile. And with the fine cross-section, once painted and the windows installed, the realism, particularly up close, is unparalleled. |
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 2, 2023 9:37:11 GMT -8
Has anyone used something other than the thin and flimsy windows provided for them? A shame the cabs can’t be a little thicker as they’re great kits. I'm curious why you think the windows are flimsy? Even before they're installed, they're pretty robust. As are the cabs themselves when assembled properly, which yes, does require removing the very slight draft angle on the front and rear. Just a quick count, but I have somewhere around 15 locos that I've used Cannon cabs, and don't find them the least bit fragile. And with the fine cross-section, once painted and the windows installed, the realism, particularly up close, is unparalleled. I may have used the wrong word but they are awesome kits. I’d rather see a better way of installing them than using glue. I want to get one for my next unit project but what’s the best stuff to “glue” them to the cab? And not risk getting it on the windows |
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sp3205
Junior Member
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Post by sp3205 on Sept 2, 2023 10:45:38 GMT -8
Canopy glue. Or just some carpenter's or white glue thinned with a bit of water. Dries clear, surprisingly strong.
Elizabeth
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 11, 2023 8:03:53 GMT -8
I have heard of some folks using slide plate glass. Tape the Cannon piece to it and score with a knife. It is thin enough that you can sand. I am going to give this method a try after I finish the GP30 I am working on and start on my set of 6 axle locomotives. I do not like the Kato cabs on their SD40-2's so I will be using Cannon cabs. The only issue I ever had and still have with the Cannon cabs is the front and rear wall. They do not want to reman flat and tend to bow inward. Typically I glue them in place and lock them up. Problem there is if a light goes out there is no way to replace it. So I may design a new method of mounting the cabs so they can be removed. Although with how much I do not run my models and how LED's last a long time. I may not have to ever worry about removing the cab. I will be long dead and gone before an LED burns out if installed and protected properly. After de-spruing the cab front and rear walls, gently sand their edges (I use a fine/medium sanding stick) to eliminate the slight draft angle along their edges. Once the edge is squared up, assemble the cab as usual, and the inward bow should not happen as the cement sets. Which begs the question- are all of their parts supposed to be sanded along the edges before assembling? |
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Post by cannon on Sept 11, 2023 9:30:08 GMT -8
[quote author=" loco8107 " [/quote] Which begs the question- are all of their parts supposed to be sanded along the edges before assembling? [/quote] This is only necessary to the edges of the front and back walls of the cabs. Dave Hussey Cannon and Company |
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Post by loco8107 on Sept 12, 2023 5:06:50 GMT -8
Which begs the question- are all of their parts supposed to be sanded along the edges before assembling? [/quote] This is only necessary to the edges of the front and back walls of the cabs. Dave Hussey Cannon and Company [/quote] Ok and thank you for responding. |
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