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Post by stevef45 on Jan 9, 2024 11:20:56 GMT -8
I'm in the midst of a redo on 2 projects I did probably 15 years ago. Took them out and realized how bad the paint job is with very thick paint application. Yellow and black were both floquil paints. Any suggestions to stripping them down?
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Post by lvrr325 on Jan 9, 2024 13:23:26 GMT -8
I never had good luck fully stripping Floquil. Even using their Barrier coat. Like on a blue box GP40-2 shell, it never would come out of the hood door latches and the shell had a greenish tint to it. I have a brass PRR Silverliner that someone painted white with what seems to be floquil, used lacquer thinner on it and it still didn't want to come out of step wells and tight spots.
Maybe I should use it for rust touch up on the car.
Uh, anyways, you can try and see what happens, but based on my experience I'd either let them be or replace the shells.
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Post by Christian on Jan 9, 2024 13:40:36 GMT -8
That used to be easy. Scalecoat wash away. Andy Harmon uses easy-off oven cleaner. I've not tried it. If I was looking for a new paint stripper I'd look to the military modeling folks. Mr. Hobby, AK Interactive, VMS, and others make strippers. Whether they can strip aged Floquil is questionable. Whether any plastic-safe stripper including Scalecoat can strip aged Floquil is iffy. Grit blasting is probably the only workable solution and that's almost another hobby altogether!
Whatever you end up using you need to be prepared to write off the shells.
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Post by SCL618 on Jan 9, 2024 18:04:42 GMT -8
I use medical grade 99% IPA and not the fermented goodness. Let it soak for almost a day. If you primed it, the paint should come off easier. This is followed by grit blasting using a Paasche air eraser loaded with baking soda at 60 PSI. It also works on SC2 albeit not as well, but Tamiya, Modelflex and Floquil remove easily. An old toothbrush can coax along the process.
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Post by stevef45 on Jan 10, 2024 17:39:31 GMT -8
Well the shells are in Castrol super clean. We'll see what happens in a day.
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Post by stevef45 on Jan 10, 2024 17:46:30 GMT -8
Just checked the 2 shells. After no more than 2 hours soaking we're seeing great results!
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Post by rmcroadster on Jan 10, 2024 22:53:08 GMT -8
IPA 99% and soda blasting work well for me.
Matthew
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Post by stevef45 on Jan 11, 2024 13:24:00 GMT -8
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Post by Christian on Jan 11, 2024 15:39:12 GMT -8
24 hours in castrol super clean That looks great! |
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Post by 12bridge on Jan 12, 2024 8:35:18 GMT -8
You got lucky. I have seen some really bad results using Super Clean, Brake Fluid, Pine Sol and some of the other older methods that used to be common with the plastic modelers. I have personally turned shells into soup (its actually quite impressive..).
Baking Soda blasting is my go to for almost everything anymore.
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Post by riogrande on Jan 12, 2024 11:03:57 GMT -8
You got lucky. I have seen some really bad results using Super Clean, Brake Fluid, Pine Sol and some of the other older methods that used to be common with the plastic modelers. I have personally turned shells into soup (its actually quite impressive..). Baking Soda blasting is my go to for almost everything anymore. It depends on the plastic used right? |
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Post by stevef45 on Jan 12, 2024 13:48:50 GMT -8
The only negative results I've ever had using super clean is it would desolve all the glues on a shell and every detail part would fall off.
So for these 2 shells its like building 2 undecorated models from scratch, which I like.
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Post by antoniofp45 on Jan 15, 2024 6:35:17 GMT -8
Concurring with SteveF45, The Purple "Super Clean" (generic version) works quite well for paint stripping even some of the more challenging paint finishes on our models. Cool factor is that it's locally available in many box stores, and hardware supply businesses. A Safety tip: Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses when you scrub the shell with a toothbrush.When using Super Clean to paint strip a stubborn Athearn pant finish from a shell, its pleasant scent fooled me. I continually dipped my shell in the solution, barehanded, as I scrubbed the remaining bits of paint off. Didn't burn at all. About 2 days later, the skin on my fingers kept peeling off in flakes for several hours! Not a pleasant experience.  |
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Post by stevef45 on Jan 16, 2024 15:20:10 GMT -8
I concur with the peeling skin. lol
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Jan 27, 2024 19:16:59 GMT -8
Brake fluid, mentioned briefly above, has changed the nature of the plastic in the couple of shells I used it on several years ago. Made them brittle. The green stripper, (Scalecoat?) had the same feel to the foolishly bare fingers as brake fluid, but I don't recall any base material changes. I use neither any more, high % rubbing alcohol the last I used on a couple P2K shells and a Scale Trains 40T-2.
Best luck to any so inclined. Take safety into concern. Gloves in particular. Eye protection as well as a mask, using grit blast materials as well.
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Post by lvrr325 on Jan 31, 2024 3:17:16 GMT -8
Reading this I'm remembering the Floquil could attack the plastic, which is what makes it hard to remove. Some shells had a rough finish when it did come off. Even using their "barrier" it could be rough.
I will have to dig out that brass Silverliner and see if Super Clean will finish off what lacquer thinner would not.
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