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Post by petehuse on Jun 10, 2014 8:29:53 GMT -8
Has anyone retrofitted covered hoppers with Plano etched metal walkways? I have several Athearn blue box cars that really need improvement, especially if I want to run them next to the new Tangent models with some degree of respectibility. Cost per car is reasonable, and the main trickiness is cementing them down with CA.
thanks for you thoughts!
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Post by TBird1958 on Jun 10, 2014 9:23:28 GMT -8
I have a few older models retro fitted with Plano walkways, this is a Walthers 4427 PS2 that goes back to when these first came out. I used ACC on the brass supports, then some Walthers Goo that I thinned out with a bit of lacquer, which makes it much easier to apply - less stringy! The plastic, brass and stainless expand and contract at different rates, the slightly flexible characteristic of the Goo allows for this and remains strong.  |
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Post by dti406 on Jun 10, 2014 9:48:19 GMT -8
I am with T-Bird on this one, I also use goo but I add CA to the top for strength plus the flexibility. Here is an Atlas Thrall Car with a Roofwalk Attached!  Another note, PS cars usually had the roofwalk painted the same color as the car, while ACF cars usually had the roofwalk in natural metal. I am not sure what Thrall did with their roofwalks. Rick J |
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Post by SOMECALLMETIM on Jun 10, 2014 10:11:16 GMT -8
I have used Plano walkways and other etch parts in the past and like them. Easy to use. I used Tenax-7R to install - actually melt the plastic of the roof to secure the supports and used the thinned barge cement to secure the walkway to the brackets.   Great looking Far-Mar-Co car. What did you use for the decals? |
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Post by TBird1958 on Jun 10, 2014 11:05:26 GMT -8
I have used Plano walkways and other etch parts in the past and like them. Easy to use. I used Tenax-7R to install - actually melt the plastic of the roof to secure the supports and used the thinned barge cement to secure the walkway to the brackets. Great looking Far-Mar-Co car. What did you use for the decals? Herald King for the FarMarCo decals Tim, great looking covered hopper project, what prototype? |
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Post by runs2waynoka on Jun 10, 2014 11:30:42 GMT -8
I've been using Microscale Micro Bond, it's not cheap, but it seems to work the first time unlike many other CAs.
It's managed to hold the walk in place on this Atlas 33K tank car, which I though would be a real problem due to the shape and amount of attachment points....
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Post by nebrzephyr on Jun 10, 2014 12:42:04 GMT -8
I have used Plano on Athearn Blue Box PS Hoppers, Walthers 4427 hoppers, old MDC hoppers, Atlas Trainman Thrall hoppers, P2K 4427 hoppers, and several others. Just recently started on a Accurail ACF hopper (much more work than the others). Bob  |
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Post by tangentsm on Jun 10, 2014 13:14:22 GMT -8
I have used Plano walkways and other etch parts in the past and like them. Easy to use. I used Tenax-7R to install - actually melt the plastic of the roof to secure the supports and used the thinned barge cement to secure the walkway to the brackets. That is a great looking round-hatch PS4740! What roadname will you paint that? Make sure to submit that to www.tangentscalemodels.com/share/ when you are finished with it! Thank you! David Lehlbach Tangent Scale Models |
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Post by upcsx on Jun 10, 2014 14:19:35 GMT -8
David if you make that in HO I will take a few.
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Post by oldmuley on Jun 11, 2014 18:08:27 GMT -8
I've had really good luck with Barge cement to attach Plano walkways. One trick I discovered was to apply the Barge cement to the brass supports, then use some heavy nuts to hold the walkway in place. I'd then use a small drop of MEK on the walkway right above each support to activate the Barge glue. Works like a charm.
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Post by petehuse on Jun 12, 2014 7:37:38 GMT -8
Thanks to everyone for their responses! I have also used the Kadee plastic see through roofwalks for 40 & 50 ft boxcars on various blue box cars, they fit nicely.
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Post by atsfan on Jun 15, 2014 6:03:57 GMT -8
Has anyone retrofitted covered hoppers with Plano etched metal walkways? I have several Athearn blue box cars that really need improvement, especially if I want to run them next to the new Tangent models with some degree of respectibility. Cost per car is reasonable, and the main trickiness is cementing them down with CA. thanks for you thoughts! Note they are not simple to install. Try one and see what you think. You will have to install many tiny support braces first. They look great when finished. |
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Post by nebrzephyr on Jun 15, 2014 6:52:18 GMT -8
Note they are not simple to install.Try one and see what you think. You will have to install many tiny support braces first. They look great when finished. Well, I would respectably disagree with that blanket statement. Some are very easy do to (think Atlas Thrall covered hopper), some are much more difficult (think Accurail covered hopper). On the Atlas Thrall you DO NOT need to "install many tiny support braces first", as you use the existing plastic braces on the car. You did get it right with "They look great when finished'. Bob |
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Post by dti406 on Jun 15, 2014 8:35:26 GMT -8
For those of you with the old AHM Flexiflow Covered Hopper, I and a number of model railroaders convinced Keith from Plano to finally do a conversion kit for that car, and he went all out with a number of great parts to make a really good looking car. Here are his in process pictures on a car I sent him as the test bed. www.planomodelproducts.com/10930/10930.htmlRick J |
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Post by TBird1958 on Jun 15, 2014 12:06:31 GMT -8
For those of you with the old AHM Flexiflow Covered Hopper, I and a number of model railroaders convinced Keith from Plano to finally do a conversion kit for that car, and he went all out with a number of great parts to make a really good looking car. Here are his in process pictures on a car I sent him as the test bed. www.planomodelproducts.com/10930/10930.htmlRick J
Thanks Rick, I didn't know anything about Plano doing these in the future - I have a couple of the old AHM cars in the junk box, they'll be fun Sow's ears to upgrade!
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Post by nebrzephyr on Jun 15, 2014 12:34:52 GMT -8
To the original poster (petehaus) if you are still following this thread. You mention Blue Box kits and also reference Tangent hoppers. So my assumption is you are referring to the Athearn PS rib side hopper. Now some will say adding Plano to this car is "not simple to install". And maybe to some modelers that is the case, maybe they find it difficult to install couplers. I don't know your modeling skills, just as I'm guessing no one else on this forum does either. So, maybe you would find the task not that hard. Yes, it does take some time to accomplish, but I would not rate the process as difficult. If you tackle one, then I'm pretty sure you'll find the second and succeeding ones go faster. It's like any modeling project, the first one is always the learning experience. I've included a couple photos of the Athearn PS rib side hopper with Plano attached. Hopefully this gives you an idea of what the resulting car would look like. I have done over 15 of this particular car and find it makes a nice model. No way it comes close to a Tangent car, but it you are a believer of the "3 foot" rule, IMHO it's worth the effort. Bob (click on the photos to see full size)    |
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Post by TBird1958 on Jun 15, 2014 13:11:44 GMT -8
Great looking cars, time and effort well spent!
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Post by petehuse on Jun 16, 2014 7:09:12 GMT -8
Nebrzephyr....your examples are exactly what I am planning on doing. I now have the Plano kits, and I'll tell you that strip of etched mounting bars is damn intimidating, but don't see away around using those to elevate the walkway above the surface, since there are no built in ribs left on the shell. Did you use the supplied hole puncher to mount those tabs or did you drill the holes? Your models turned out great.
thanks
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Post by nebrzephyr on Jun 16, 2014 8:50:17 GMT -8
Nebrzephyr....your examples are exactly what I am planning on doing. I now have the Plano kits, and I'll tell you that strip of etched mounting bars is damn intimidating, but don't see away around using those to elevate the walkway above the surface, since there are no built in ribs left on the shell. Did you use the supplied hole puncher to mount those tabs or did you drill the holes? Your models turned out great. thanks OK...When you say "hole puncher" I'm guessing you are referring to the T-pin included in the Plano kit. Here's how I approach these Athearn hoppers. Cut out the paper template, tape to the car and mark the necessary holes for the risers with the T-pin. Remove the paper template and yes, you will need to drill the holes for the risers. It's not hard just takes some time (and maybe a drill bit or 2  ). You will note on the instructions the different size risers. After you clip the individual risers from the carrier, I use a X-acto #17 blade to do the actual bending. Hold the riser flat on a hard surface and slide the #17 under the end of the riser and gently lift up to 90 degrees. Make sure you have the riser with the indentation for the bend line face up. Once you have the riser bent you will notice one leg is very slightly longer than the other. The long leg goes to the out edge of the roof. The end risers that are parallel to the car side have the same length legs. If you car is already assembled, the best way I have found to secure the risers is take a piece of .012 wire (or something similar in size) and place a very small bit of ACC on the end and then touch the riser edge. It will be just enough ACC to secure the riser, but will not be noticeable when you touch up the paint. Over time I have used various "glues" to secure the roof walk to the risers. On the last few I did I use Microscale Kyistal Klear. That may sound strange but it works. As other have indicated there are multiple "glues" that can be used to attach the roof walk. I highly suggest that you do NOT use ACC. You need a "glue" that provides some range for expansion/contraction. Good luck, and as I mention in a previous reply, the first one is a learning experience, but the following ones will go much faster/easier. If you have any add'l questions, just post them. Bob |
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Post by riogrande on Jun 16, 2014 9:03:49 GMT -8
I agree, the addition of the plano roof walks do a lot to improve the looks of many covered hoppers. We view most of our model trains from above, to that is probably one of the single best improvements we can make to certain freight cars!
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Post by alcoc430 on Jun 16, 2014 9:32:14 GMT -8
For those of you with the old AHM Flexiflow Covered Hopper, I and a number of model railroaders convinced Keith from Plano to finally do a conversion kit for that car, and he went all out with a number of great parts to make a really good looking car. Here are his in process pictures on a car I sent him as the test bed. www.planomodelproducts.com/10930/10930.htmlRick J That's awesome news IIRC the AHM hatch covers are not prototypical of flexi-flos Are there any parts available for the hatches? |
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). You will note on the instructions the different size risers. After you clip the individual risers from the carrier, I use a X-acto #17 blade to do the actual bending. Hold the riser flat on a hard surface and slide the #17 under the end of the riser and gently lift up to 90 degrees. Make sure you have the riser with the indentation for the bend line face up.