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Post by lvrr325 on Nov 23, 2014 10:14:19 GMT -8
My salesman offered me these and I passed because of the four-pack deal; these cars are so odd I can't picture needing more than one or two unless you're modeling the Pennsy where a lot of them ran. Looks like based on the detail I made the right choice.
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Post by markfj on Nov 23, 2014 12:17:54 GMT -8
That’s an interesting idea about using Rail Shop etched cage ends to “fix” the appearance of this BLI car. I own several Bowser H30 and one (un-built) Rail Shop kit, so that option is there for me. But how many will run out and buy a $30 - $40 kit to fix a $30-$40 RTR car? Not being argumentative, just thinking out loud about how the costs will add up. Frankly, I would rather buy an old Funaro & Camerlengo H32 resin kit and enjoy the build than get frustrated and disgruntled with a rework of this BLI car. Here is the article MR ran back in 2007 on the F&C H32 kit. Looks like a pretty good build if you have the time. Sorry about the multiple attachments. I had to copy and paste the pages from PDF to Word and then the file size was way over 2MB. Building Resin Car Kits H32 p 62.docx (909.01 KB) Building Resin Car Kits H32 p63-64.docx (1.48 MB) Building Resin Car Kits H32 p65-66.docx (1.44 MB) Thanks, Mark
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2014 13:54:50 GMT -8
That came out wrong. I meant to say "70's era tooling", or even 60's for that matter. I like these cars but not what BLI has brought out. Bowser's is much better. Sorry for the confusion Way to go BLI, 70's era modeling once again. You guys need to think outside the box for once. Sheesh! Sorry but the transition era is still the most wanted era according to all the polls, so these cars are especially wanted by us transition era modelers versus the sameness of modern era trains. I have two of these cars and at the club we noticed two things as related to Bowser's H-30, the lack of shakers on the outlet bays (cars were not originally ordered with them and were applied hit and miss to the cars as time went on), and no grabs on the hatch covers. Although these are a not noticeable in my train of various PRR covered hoppers of various styles. Rick J
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Post by thommo on Nov 23, 2014 15:04:50 GMT -8
Is the roofwalk etched metal see thru? It is hard tell from the pictures. The end cages look pretty thick, but then maybe so was the prototype. Some weathering washes would help the car "pop". Roofwalk is see-through, but not metal, it is plastic, as I can see. I allways liked those Pennsy hoppers, so I ordered two when they became available. But it was a surprise to see such a thick stirrups and other details. Hard to understand why, as BLI New York Central boxcar is much better and finer. Bowser H30 cars, and Tangent, really all of them, are so much better models. Pitty.
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Post by roadkill on Nov 24, 2014 16:26:00 GMT -8
That thing is a freakin' turd. Period. I'll pass, thanks.
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Post by atsfan on Nov 24, 2014 17:32:20 GMT -8
That thing is a freakin' turd. Period. I'll pass, thanks. Don't sit on the fence. Make a decision already.....
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Post by Partial_List on Nov 24, 2014 19:40:21 GMT -8
That thing is a freakin' turd. Period. I'll pass, thanks. A turd with 4 axles at that. It's about time someone was honest
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Post by thebessemerkid on Nov 26, 2014 7:59:00 GMT -8
That’s an interesting idea about using Rail Shop etched cage ends to “fix” the appearance of this BLI car. I own several Bowser H30 and one (un-built) Rail Shop kit, so that option is there for me. But how many will run out and buy a $30 - $40 kit to fix a $30-$40 RTR car? Not being argumentative, just thinking out loud about how the costs will add up. Frankly, I would rather buy an old Funaro & Camerlengo H32 resin kit and enjoy the build than get frustrated and disgruntled with a rework of this BLI car. Here is the article MR ran back in 2007 on the F&C H32 kit. Looks like a pretty good build if you have the time. Sorry about the multiple attachments. I had to copy and paste the pages from PDF to Word and then the file size was way over 2MB. Thanks, Mark Weird question: I try to download those docx files on the android phone, and they are saved as .bin files. Anyone else have this problem and is there a work around?
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Post by thebessemerkid on Nov 26, 2014 8:06:08 GMT -8
Newly arrived Pennsy BLI H32 hoppers. Clunky. The red ones look a little better, probably because dark colors are receding/ make things look smaller. The stirrups are easily replaced with brass flat strip, but the rest can get involved. Maybe Plano could do an etched brass fix-it set. Disappointing for a $40 MSRP car. Funaro used to have their kits at a significant discount at Timonium. Will have to see how their resin parts compare to the BLI, and which is the easier starting point. Still cheaper than brass, but lots of work. The Penn Central lettering looks way off, their undecs should also be unpainted. ETA: This would be better offered at $30 unptd and unassembled.
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Post by roadkill on Nov 26, 2014 18:11:47 GMT -8
That thing is a freakin' turd. Period. I'll pass, thanks. A turd with 4 axles at that. It's about time someone was honest Honesty has never been one of my problems !
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