help on using Campbells corrugated metal roofing please

[steveturner]

Guys i want to go over the roof and make design changes to the Walthers Mountain saw mill. Its currently plastic metal roof. I intend to take the roof section that comes off of the main building at right angles and put it on the back of the building flush. So long building with a drying sorting rack at back not side Unfortunately you are left with a triangle with no roof markings jst smooth plastic. Long story short i was sent as a bonus in a purchase a couple packages of Campbells corrugated roofing, number 801 looks like 55 scale feet by 8 scale feet wide and i am quite impressed with it. So i am wondering on a building like this lets say early 60s what dimensions would i use to refoof with the corrugated metal, in terms of overlap left to right and up and down what size pieces should i cut. if i am going to this extent i would like the metal roof to look the part.What practise should i use to glue the metal roof to existing plastic roof ?. How about ridge caping?. Thanks for any help . The new fall project !!!! Steve

[mlehman]

Steve,
Not sure I can be much help. I think it's safe to say it varied with corrugated. My memory is more like late 60s, when I was old and big enough to start swinging a hammer on family projects at home and on my aunt and uncle's farm. I started off with a memory of 2'x8', but that's really not too wide. Then I thought that doesn't always match up well with truss/stud spacing. Maybe 3'x8'? That would give you a span across three studs spaced 16" apart, plus a couple inches of overlap each way.


Steel buildings took off in the 60s and that stuff was 4' wide in many cases, definitely wider than corrugated of that era.

That said, I use a lot of corrugated in various permutations. Haven't tried any of the new Campbell stuff, but have used a lot of the Northeastern stuff with good results. Now I used printed stuff more, because it's, ummm, easy to reproduce
It's 2' OC, so suspect that's evidence of it being more of a standard than 3', which I may just be misremembering. The actual measurement may be more like 28" to allow for overlap, but 24" showing.

I will say when I was cutting the metal stuff, I typically went wider on large structures, although things differ on small ones and you need the extra business of actual 2' spacing to make it look right.. The eye doesn't notice the difference much and it saves some time and effort. I have a couple of particularly large ones when I even did rather minimal slicing of the sheets, yet still got a good effect because the were large roofs at or above eye level. YMMV

[mlehman]

Steve,
Took some pics for SPF and came across one that shows how I used the Northeastern corrugated roofing. The walls of the mill are covered with the sheeting cut into roughly 4' wide pieces, while the roof is covered with corrugated, a lot which was cut in very wide pieces. Yet it doesn't look bad, mainly because it's so huge I suspect.

[steveturner]

Very nice Mike. Quite effective . Gives me some ideas.Steve

[fr8kar]

Is the Northeastern stuff wood made to look like corrugated metal or is it actually metal? Either way your structures look great, Mike.

I have a large corrugated metal grain elevator I'd like to build some day, but to be honest, I have no idea what to make it out of so it looks right. What you've done looks right.

[mlehman]

Oct 25, 2014 3:28:43 GMT -8 fr8kar said:

Is the Northeastern stuff wood made to look like corrugated metal or is it actually metal? Either way your structures look great, Mike.
SNIP

fr8kar,
Thanks for the comments. Yes, the Northeastern stuff is metal (521-55051). There are 5 pieces (1.5"x8") in each package at $5.95 MSRP.

An alternative used to be Paper Creek (who also had some great laser shingles), but it's unobtanium AFAIK at this point, except for the joys of the laser copier. Here's one done in PC corrugated roofing. More detail, less texture.