Post by antoniofp45 on Mar 31, 2015 1:52:14 GMT -8
Hi guys,
A while back I was asked if, instead of airbrushing, it was possible to just immerse a passenger car's glazing strips into the Alclad2 Armoured Glass (ALC 408) solution and then retrieve the glazing coated with the tint.
For the experiment I used a small 2" x 2" pan and a transparent plastic cover from a disposable razor. Poured a little over 1/4 oz of Armoured Glass into the pan then dipped the razor cover into it. I let it soak for approximately 3 minutes and pulled it out of the solution. Poured the remaining solution back into the bottle.
I think that most of us see a potential problem. It's difficult to control how dark or light the glazing results will be. While this result looks attractive, it would be much "too green" for me unless I was modeling a passenger car that just rolled off out of the factory and not a unit that's been on the road 10-20 years. Tinted windows fade at a much faster rate than stainless steel.
Imho, with a quality single or dual action airbrush, you can easily control the intensity of the Green (ALC 408 or Smoke (ALC 405) Alclad2 tints, one thin coat at a time.
As seen here from previous uses, with an airbrush the intensity of the tint is so much easier to control from very light or faded to more intense:
I hope this is helpful.
A while back I was asked if, instead of airbrushing, it was possible to just immerse a passenger car's glazing strips into the Alclad2 Armoured Glass (ALC 408) solution and then retrieve the glazing coated with the tint.
For the experiment I used a small 2" x 2" pan and a transparent plastic cover from a disposable razor. Poured a little over 1/4 oz of Armoured Glass into the pan then dipped the razor cover into it. I let it soak for approximately 3 minutes and pulled it out of the solution. Poured the remaining solution back into the bottle.
I think that most of us see a potential problem. It's difficult to control how dark or light the glazing results will be. While this result looks attractive, it would be much "too green" for me unless I was modeling a passenger car that just rolled off out of the factory and not a unit that's been on the road 10-20 years. Tinted windows fade at a much faster rate than stainless steel.
Imho, with a quality single or dual action airbrush, you can easily control the intensity of the Green (ALC 408 or Smoke (ALC 405) Alclad2 tints, one thin coat at a time.
As seen here from previous uses, with an airbrush the intensity of the tint is so much easier to control from very light or faded to more intense:
I hope this is helpful.
