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Post by tankcarsrule on Sept 24, 2015 4:33:09 GMT -8
Thank you Roger.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 1, 2015 17:33:33 GMT -8
I don't have a lot done, but the hard part's finished.
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Post by mlehman on Oct 1, 2015 18:45:24 GMT -8
That's some darn fancy carbuilding you got going on there, Bobby!
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 2, 2015 2:20:31 GMT -8
Thanks Mike. It's been a lot of work, but that's the fun part!
Regards, Bobby
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Oct 2, 2015 3:32:01 GMT -8
Bet the brass end ladders hold up better than plastic ladders from the factory. Excellent metal work and modeling!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 5:30:41 GMT -8
Bobby,
You attack a freight car project with style. You are not even happy with commercially available triple valves that you have to build your own. But, I understand how you enjoy the ART of building a model. It is not because it takes time and effort. It is because you can. So when people ask, "Why did you do this" or "Why did you do that". The real and simple answer is "Because I can".
Great work of art Bobby. Really great. McLove'n it!
Brian
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 2, 2015 5:59:31 GMT -8
Jim, Brian, thank you for your encouragement. Guys, you two are very intense modelers that strive for excellence and don't cut corners. I really love to do detail. There are details that only I know are there, but I know and that's what counts, right?
Regards, Bobby
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Post by Deleted on Oct 2, 2015 6:03:16 GMT -8
Bobby, it is no different than the model tank guys building full interiors. You cannot see 99% of it but the joy of building it is there and you know it.
Brian
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Post by Donnell Wells on Oct 2, 2015 14:21:35 GMT -8
So when people ask, "Why did you do this?" or "Why did you do that?" The real and simple answer is "Because I can". Great work of art Bobby. Really great. McLove'n it! Brian Hi Brian, This is my exact "train" of thought! It is the reason why I am rebuilding blue box F-units. The neat thing about this project is the immense creativity displayed in turning what amounts to a "toy" train into a museum quality showpiece! Funny thing is, I bought one of these very cylindrical hoppers a few years ago in hopes of achieving a similar outcome. I am truly inspired! Donnell
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 3, 2015 4:47:19 GMT -8
Thank you Donnell, I'm glad you like my work.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 8, 2015 6:55:37 GMT -8
I finished the B end cage and added a photo of the completed slack adjuster test fit. I posted the photos in the first post. I accidentally deleted the photos in the first post, so I posted them there.
Thanks, Bobby
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Oct 8, 2015 7:12:55 GMT -8
I finished the B end cage and added a photo of the completed slack adjuster test fit. I posted the photos in the first post. I accidentally deleted the photos in the first post, so I posted them there. Thanks, Bobby Your work is makes my jaw drop. You are so talented and the brass work on the end cage is better than any injection molded parts on $50 cars!
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 8, 2015 16:51:50 GMT -8
Thank you very much Jim, I really appreciate your encouragement.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 20, 2015 12:08:06 GMT -8
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Post by TBird1958 on Oct 20, 2015 12:17:15 GMT -8
Wow Bobby! Amazing quality in all your builds, just fantastic!
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Post by Spikre on Oct 20, 2015 12:36:21 GMT -8
Bobby, Fantastic !! which trucks are under the car ? Spikre
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Oct 20, 2015 13:21:37 GMT -8
That is outstanding model work!
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 20, 2015 14:12:16 GMT -8
Thank you Mark very much. Spikre, I appreciate it. They are KDs. Jim, you're very kind.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by gtws00 on Oct 21, 2015 5:35:11 GMT -8
Bobby, you certainly have raised the bar again. What fantastic work. If I may ask, how do you place the harvested rivets? Any tips you can offer.
George
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Post by riogrande on Oct 21, 2015 6:17:14 GMT -8
Bobby, detailer extrordinaire!
Question. How do you paint the end cage such that you get paint even on the sides behind all the details, plus get the brake rigging etc. all painted, back sides of the cage etc. Who knows, maybe it might come in useful for me too! =P
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 21, 2015 6:29:16 GMT -8
Thanks a lot George. I'm happy to say the rivets around the hopper bays are Archer. The others are one at a time. I use a new #11 to pick up the rivet. It will stick to the blade well enough to set the knife down while I place a small puddle of Testors liquid cement in place. I use Testors because it evaporates very fast and won't do damage to the area or rivet. Place the rivet on the glue and you're done. I've had to remove a few, but most of the time you can slide the rivet where you want it. On brass or other metal, that's a bit harder. I use acc to hold the rivet in place. The problem is, you have one shot to place the rivet. I've had to scrape off several rivets and redo them. You have to be patient and in the right frame of mind when you start. Don't push down to hard on the rivet or it won't release. I hope this helps.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 21, 2015 6:37:11 GMT -8
Bobby, detailer extrordinaire! Question. How do you paint the end cage such that you get paint even on the sides behind all the details, plus get the brake rigging etc. all painted, back sides of the cage etc. Who knows, maybe it might come in useful for me too! =P Thank you Jim. You ask a question that I've pondered myself. I'm going to ask my friend and expert painter Bob Harpe. If he volunteers to paint it, I might take him up on it. Regards, Bobby
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Post by gtws00 on Oct 21, 2015 9:14:17 GMT -8
Bobby thanks for the tips on your rivets. I have tried it but need to work on my techniques. Your work is truly an inspiration. George
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Post by TBird1958 on Oct 21, 2015 9:28:01 GMT -8
Thanks a lot George. I'm happy to say the rivets around the hopper bays are Archer. The others are one at a time. I use a new #11 to pick up the rivet. It will stick to the blade well enough to set the knife down while I place a small puddle of Testors liquid cement in place. I use Testors because it evaporates very fast and won't do damage to the area or rivet. Place the rivet on the glue and you're done. I've had to remove a few, but most of the time you can slide the rivet where you want it. On brass or other metal, that's a bit harder. I use acc to hold the rivet in place. The problem is, you have one shot to place the rivet. I've had to scrape off several rivets and redo them. You have to be patient and in the right frame of mind when you start. Don't push down to hard on the rivet or it won't release. I hope this helps. Regards, Bobby
Bobby, I haven't used Archer rivets before, can you tell which of theirs you're using - I have a boxcar project underway that will need quite a few.
Thanks, Mark
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 21, 2015 10:34:31 GMT -8
Thank you George. Practice on an old car or piece of styrene.
Mark, I bought their starter set AR88087 and lucked up on the spacing. They have a nice web site that will be helpful. A bit of advice, always use clear coat under the decals. I learned the hard way when I was doing the weld lines on my DUPX whale. I just brush on a thin coat on the area where the rivets go.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by TBird1958 on Oct 21, 2015 11:11:30 GMT -8
Thank s Bobby!
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 21, 2015 17:29:55 GMT -8
Mark, glad to be of help.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by cf7 on Oct 22, 2015 6:12:15 GMT -8
Wow, Bobby! That is truly amazing.
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Post by tankcarsrule on Oct 22, 2015 8:57:55 GMT -8
Thank you cf7, I appreciate your kindness.
Regards, Bobby
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Post by tankcarsrule on Mar 12, 2021 6:47:52 GMT -8
View AttachmentView Attachmentinsert code here Well, I'm started. The removal of the walk and hatches was a major undertaking, abount 7 hours. You have to drill and nip to remove them. Then you have two halves. I cut the top of the ends and glued then in place for strength and keep things lined up. I also glued styrene strips in the opening from underneath. The body fits into the bottom tightly, that helps align the parts. To fill the top I thought of the IM grain hopper top. The hopper loading hatch spacing was dead on, but it was to high and when centered was 10" short on each end. Well I set about reducing the height by flat sanding the bottom. I layed a strip of 220 grit wet or dry on the bathroom sink table and went to work. Several hours later it was done. You have to stop and check the fit very often. The 10" gap was no problem to fill. I largely completed one end. I'll do the ends in brass and splice and dice the diamond walk. Bobby
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