|
|
Post by es80ac on Jul 2, 2017 11:47:19 GMT -8
Can anyone give me some advise on the best way to secure a replacement motor onto an Athearn frame? Athearn uses the rubber mounting pad which does not fit the replacement motor, and I don't have the capability to fabricate a motor mount. I understand use silicon caulk might be a way, but I don't want this to be a permanent thing, as I may want to adjust the position or use a different motor later. Can anyone advise me any better options? thanks
|
|
|
|
Post by areibel on Jul 2, 2017 12:29:46 GMT -8
I use black RTV, available in the hardware store. If I have to maintain shaft alignment I put a styrene spacer under the motor, then use a little RTV to glue the spacer and motor both in at the same time. It doesn't take a lot, and you can cut the RTV with an Xacto knife or razor blade if you need to change it.
|
|
|
|
Post by nomads on Jul 2, 2017 12:29:55 GMT -8
Some form of sealant works very well. I have installed three A-Line motors using double sided tape initially, but then changed all of them to a silicon sealant. The reduction in noise offered by the silicon is significant. This subject has been vigorously debated, but I found that the motor vibrations transmit through the double sided tape into the chassis and down into the baseboards. Silicon prevents the transmission of vibration.
Be aware that it is difficult to balance a motor's fly wheels when you do a motor change, so there is often more vibration than with a good standard RTR model.
Alignment of the motor and drive is not a big deal, use a generous dollop of silicon and position the motor as "correctly" as you can by eye.
If it all goes wrong, the motor and silicon can be removed with a craft knife, and cleaned up easily.
Note that sealants come in acrylic or solvent based. Either will work.
|
|
|
|
Post by Donnell Wells on Jul 2, 2017 14:19:07 GMT -8
Can anyone give me some advise on the best way to secure a replacement motor onto an Athearn frame? Athearn uses the rubber mounting pad which does not fit the replacement motor, and I don't have the capability to fabricate a motor mount. I understand use silicon caulk might be a way, but I don't want this to be a permanent thing, as I may want to adjust the position or use a different motor later. Can anyone advise me any better options? thanks
Hello es80ac,
In the past, I have fabricated custom motor mounts from strip and sheet styrene. You can go commercial and purchase a motor mount from A-Line/PPW, or have someone build one for you based on your motor's dimensions. Another option is to have one 3D printed, and maybe make a mold from which to cast copies for other projects with similar mounting requirements.
Donnell |
|
|
|
Post by Judge Doom on Jul 2, 2017 15:58:10 GMT -8
Custom styrene mounts, or even hot glue gun glue works. I've adapted a few units with both methods.
For the styrene, I built a housing like what some manufacturers use, with strips going up at either end of the motor with grooves cut in the middle for the motor shafts to fit in.
|
|
|
|
Post by MONSTERRAILROAD on Jul 2, 2017 15:59:16 GMT -8
Only use double sided 3M tape. Simple and easily removable.
|
|
|
|
Post by nsc39d8 on Jul 2, 2017 16:02:52 GMT -8
|
|
|
|
Post by edwardsutorik on Jul 2, 2017 16:28:34 GMT -8
Thanks for mentioning this, James.
I just ordered two of the switcher mounts for a project.
Ed
|
|
|
|
Post by lvrr325 on Jul 2, 2017 23:15:11 GMT -8
I bought a tube of silicone gasket maker to use for some automotive work probably 20 years ago.
Along the way it installed a motor in a Rail Power SD60 and repaired several Athearn engines with crumbled stock motor mounts.
Somewhere that tube still exists, I never did use it all up.
Like $8 in an auto parts store.
There's a pair of small nuts buried in it in the SD60 to get the motor positioned right, it was a Mashima I pulled out of something else.
|
|
|
|
Post by nsc39d8 on Jul 3, 2017 4:06:00 GMT -8
Ed,
Let me know how they workout. I might be interested in those as well.
|
|
|
|
Post by es80ac on Jul 3, 2017 17:59:41 GMT -8
Thank you everyone for your valuable input!
|
|
|
|
Post by atsfgp7u on Jul 4, 2017 18:54:17 GMT -8
A-Line/Proto Power West make a range of motor cradles specifically to address your need. And they add a little bit of extra weight, which is good for traction. My son's hobby business carries them in stock, but that won't help you as we are located in Australia. Here is the URL to PPW's website. ppw-aline.com/collections/motor-mount-cradle-weightsYou can use double sided tape to mount the cradle to the frame and to mount the motor to the cradle. Scotch make an outdoor double sided tape (the tape is dark grey with a red protective peel back skin). It is more heat resistant that standard double sided tape. Its stock number is 411 or 414P or something like that - I don't have mine at hand. Even if PPW doesn't offer a cradle for your specific loco, you can choose one similar and cut and file it to fit the space on your frame. Silicon can be bloody messy and we used to have to support the motor until the silicon dried, as the weight of the motor would sink into the silicon and the silicon would squeeze out from under the motor - PITA. (I don't think modern silicone sags as much as the old stuff did) These cradles take the hard work out of motor swaps - and easy to remove if you need to later. Hope this helps |
|
|
|
Post by edwardsutorik on Jul 6, 2017 7:37:48 GMT -8
Ed, Let me know how they workout. I might be interested in those as well. My two motor mounts for the Athearn SW7 arrived (see above link). I slid a Kato motor in. It was a very nice press fit--I could install it by hand, but I had the impression that it was tight enough to not need any adhesive. Maybe. There are two holes in the bottom of the mount and two supplied screws. The holes are not threaded. I am expecting to run a tap (4-40, I think) in before installation. I am guessing I'll need a bottoming tap. Or, I suppose, I could drill the holes all the way through--I don't think that would damage the mount any. Then a normal tap would handle the job. I have the impression that I'm going to have to do metal removal in the chassis casting to get the mount to fit. I haven't looked. But I'd likely have to, anyway. So I'll just accept that as a likely possibility. Actual installation into the switchers will come much later. I've got too many "started" projects to start another. But it's very pleasant to know I've probably got the motor mount part covered. This project, should there be caring, is an Athearn cow and calf. Years ago, I installed a drawbar and linked the pickup across both units. It never stalls. But it's not a great runner. So I thought I'd replace the motors and, while I'm at it, add DCC. And add lead wherever it will fit. I am planning on keeping the original wheels, as they likely have more friction than replacements. These mounts look very promising. Ed |
|
|
|
Post by nebrzephyr on Jul 6, 2017 10:39:39 GMT -8
A-Line/Proto Power West make a range of motor cradles specifically to address your need. I used the A-Line "cradle" to install a Kato motor, the one with flywheels attached. This was in an Athearn (RPP) GP60M. The only thing I needed to do was add some .060 styrene strips under the "cradle" so the flywheels would clear the frame. Then used silicone adhesive to mount the motor. Worked perfectly. Bob |
|
