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Post by Deleted on Sept 18, 2017 16:01:58 GMT -8
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Post by riogrande on Sept 18, 2017 16:08:01 GMT -8
Thumbs up!
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 18, 2017 16:20:17 GMT -8
Looks great! Whose plows are those?
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Post by TBird1958 on Sept 18, 2017 16:32:41 GMT -8
Really inspired, beautiful model work. The color shift of the blue at various points on the model is truly exceptional, as is all the weathering.
Thanks for sharing it with us Brian!
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Post by onequiknova on Sept 18, 2017 16:39:29 GMT -8
I followed this build on Facebook. Stellar modeling. Love the weathering.
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Post by tankcarsrule on Sept 18, 2017 16:50:24 GMT -8
As are all of your builds, this is an outstanding model!
Bobby
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2017 4:28:22 GMT -8
Looks great! Whose plows are those? Ryan, They are Athearn plows with added details. Grab irons, bolt flange and reinforcement strip along bottom edge. Brian |
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 19, 2017 5:08:33 GMT -8
Looks great! Whose plows are those? Ryan, They are Athearn plows with added details. Grab irons, bolt flange and reinforcement strip along bottom edge. Brian Far out! I didn't realize they were that thin. Of course the added details really make them pop. |
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Post by riogrande on Sept 19, 2017 5:26:10 GMT -8
Yes, the newer Athearn plows are pretty nice looking. IMO, it's one of the better upgrades to their RTR line they've done in the past 8-9 years.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2017 5:55:02 GMT -8
Ryan, They are Athearn plows with added details. Grab irons, bolt flange and reinforcement strip along bottom edge. Brian Far out! I didn't realize they were that thin. Of course the added details really make them pop. I did this with the Atlas plows also. They are nice and they are cast in really soft plastic so it makes them easy to work with. The Atlas plowsare very plain and come without doors or center coupler opening detail. They are great blank canvases to start with. Here is an Atlas plow without doors on my GP35M.   Here is the Atlas plow on my U30C with doors built.  Brian |
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Post by roadkill on Sept 19, 2017 7:31:31 GMT -8
Good stuff, Brian!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2017 13:11:13 GMT -8
That UBoat is SUPREME!!!!
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Post by nsc39d8 on Sept 19, 2017 13:22:13 GMT -8
Brian,
What's the cab on the U30C? Any chance of you bringing those MP units to the RPM in Winston Salem in October?
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Post by cr9617 on Sept 19, 2017 16:26:30 GMT -8
beautiful model, the weathering is amazing!
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2017 16:27:55 GMT -8
Brian, What's the cab on the U30C? Any chance of you bringing those MP units to the RPM in Winston Salem in October? Yes, they will all be at Winston Salem. I'll be there. The cab is a combination of the Atlas B23-7 and Hi-Tech. I used the B23-7 cab because to date it has the best roof profile. I used a high hood B23-7 cab because it did not have number boards. I bought from Atlas the cab, number boards and glass. The center window section is from Hi-Tech as are the cab sides. The front and rear door and the engineers front window and brakeman rear window are left in place on the Atlas cab. I used what I thought was the best for each area. The number board is the Atlas B23-7 with the hinges removed. The headlight is a brass etching kit I designed. The cab interior is all scratch built from photos I took of the BN U30C at the Illinois Railway Museum. The idea for using the Hi-Tech sides came from Tom Austin.  Here are all the pieces cut and ready for assembly.  Assembled cab with interior. The floor was styrene sheet and the chairs and control stand are from Precision Scale.  The horn and antenna are supposed to be bent. There wee in the prototype photo.  B23-7 number boards and assembled headlight kit.  Assembled number board and headlight. The lenses I think are from Details West. Brian |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2017 16:34:20 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on Sept 19, 2017 17:49:29 GMT -8
Ole' 1555 runs like a swiss watch, too. I look forward to seeing the third baby tunnel motor...as 1595 is a master piece as well!!!
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Post by roadkill on Sept 20, 2017 7:42:19 GMT -8
That headlight "kit" you designed is killer! Any chance of selling a few as I'll be need some to a couple of second order Penn Central U23B's.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2017 8:17:30 GMT -8
That headlight "kit" you designed is killer! Any chance of selling a few as I'll be need some to a couple of second order Penn Central U23B's. Roger, I do not know how many I had made. it was only a test to see if my design worked and by chance it did. I'll let you know if I have any spares. I need to keep at least a dozen of them for my projects. I do not make stuff to sell anymore. I always loose my shirt on the deal. if I price the stuff where I would make something on the project, then nobody wants to pay the price. So I just make the stuff for myself plus a few extras. I have loads of parts that not to many people have seen. Yes, and some GE parts as seen here.  GE U23B jack pad  3D printed part  3D printed GE Fuel Filler Block. You can see the print lines on the face, but they go away after installation of the filler neck and cap.  3D printed scale GP30/ GP35 draft gear box and GP30/ phase Ia1 GP35 buffer plate.  Draft gear box installed on Kato model.  The buffer plate was designed for a Sergent coupler. I still have to design the other buffer plate used on Phase Ia2 and later GP35's. you can see the GE U23B jack pads in the background also. The other issue with my parts is you have to be able to precision cut your frames to use them. For example, the U23B jack pads. You would have to cut your frame and build it up the same way I do in order for the parts to fit properly. Here is what they look like installed. The model is sitting on Kato shop trucks. Here is an example of one of the built Kato AAR side frames looks like.    Brian |
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Post by markfj on Sept 20, 2017 10:52:34 GMT -8
Brian,
If you offered your 3D parts through Shapeway, they might be good sellers. I would bet at least the draft gear box & buffer plate assemblies would be popular items. That buffer plate looks much nicer than the casting Details West offers and as far as I know no one makes a draft gear box assemble.
Mark
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Sept 20, 2017 11:16:52 GMT -8
It's when I see modeling like Brian's, that makes my efforts....Tyco-ish in comparison.
Blown away, mind altering, jaw dropping, you get the picture.....his stuff is legendary. Much like John(onequiknova)'s.
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Post by Christian on Sept 20, 2017 12:02:59 GMT -8
It's when I see modeling like Brian's, that makes my efforts....Tyco-ish in comparison. Me too. BUT that's pretty much true of a lot of things I do. The very best part of Brian's modeling is that he will share anything that helps other folks improve. Just picking up one or two ideas is a positive step and a lot of what he does is simple. No, I'll never have Brian locomotives. But, I'm a better model builder because of his work. That goes for almost anybody who posts and will share ideas. We have a lot of that sharing going on on this list. So much solid help that I hesitate to name names because I'm gonna leave someone off who has been crucial to me. It's not just the advanced guys either. Beginners always give me something to see and think about because I'm so much beyond my roots that I forget fundamentals. All of us need to be free with those thumbs up clicks when we've learned something or when our jaw hits the floor. I know when someone is nice enough to leave me a thumb after I post a bit of improved "Tyco" that I get enough warm fuzzies to make me glow for a couple days. |
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Post by Great-Northern-Willmar Div on Sept 20, 2017 12:05:37 GMT -8
It's when I see modeling like Brian's, that makes my efforts....Tyco-ish in comparison. Me too. BUT that's pretty much true of a lot of things I do. The very best part of Brian's modeling is that he will share anything that helps other folks improve. Just picking up one or two ideals is a positive step. No, I'll never have Brian locomotives. But, I'm a better model builder because of his work. And that goes for almost anybody who posts and will share ideas. And we have a lot of that sharing going on on this list. So much solid help that I hesitate to name names. All of us need to be free with those thumbs up clicks when we've learned something or when our jaw hits the floor. I know when someone is nice enough to leave me a thumb after I post a bit of improved "Tyco" that I get enough warm fuzzies to make me glow for a couple days. Well put!!!!!! Amen brother |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2017 12:28:55 GMT -8
Brian, If you offered your 3D parts through Shapeway, they might be good sellers. I would bet at least the draft gear box & buffer plate assemblies would be popular items. That buffer plate looks much nicer than the casting Details West offers and as far as I know no one makes a draft gear box assemble. Mark Mark, Those items will eventually be for sale on Shapeways. There are a couple of modelers asking me for them on my Facebook page with the understanding that you have to cut the frame to fit the draft gear as well as turn your own coupler pin. The Shapeways stuff I do not have to handle or ship, so selling that stuff is easy and as long as the buyer understands that these are not simply drop in parts, then OK. No problem. Hey, you hurt my feelings Mark. I am dumping this list forever.  That Details West Buffer plate was cast from my master. A master that was machined in ABS plastic. The machined parts were excellent. it was the assembly that was not so great. It had to be assembled and I did not do the best of job on that. That was almost what, 10 years ago maybe? Not really Paul's fault. More or less my fault. I still used them though. The buffer plate in the photo was a test to see how well they would print. I find that if you do not have any surface detail the print comes out a little better. The bolt head is an NBW detail part added after cleanup. The cleanup involved a little scraping with the edge of a #11 blade. That is the first type of buffer plate which I will refer to as the Type I. It has the bolt at the front and no side plate notch on the forward edge. The next one, Type II, I still have to design and has the bolt at the back as well as a notch in the side plate at the back on the bottom and without the notch at the forward side plates. The final buffer plate, Type III, is the one that DW offers with notch at both the bottom back edge and the forward edge of the side plates. There is a little design change I want to make that will line up the buffer plate with the draft gear box. Now etched parts are a real pain. I have to go buy the packaging to send them and then go to the post office and stand in that ridiculous line. No thanks! Brian |
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Post by roadkill on Sept 20, 2017 12:55:01 GMT -8
LOVE those jacking pads but I couldn't use them as I don't have access to a mill  . All frame mods I do are done with a Dremel w/fiberglass reinforced cutoff discs and several different grades of mill files. I can do a lot that way, some day I'll get a decent camera and I'll post some of my work. You'd surprised what one can do with just a Dremel and some files  . |
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Post by roadkill on Sept 20, 2017 12:59:49 GMT -8
It's when I see modeling like Brian's, that makes my efforts....Tyco-ish in comparison. Blown away, mind altering, jaw dropping, you get the picture.....his stuff is legendary. Much like John(onequiknova)'s. Tyco-ish my ass! You, sir, do some inspiring modeling! |
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Post by Deleted on Sept 20, 2017 14:18:48 GMT -8
It's when I see modeling like Brian's, that makes my efforts....Tyco-ish in comparison. Blown away, mind altering, jaw dropping, you get the picture.....his stuff is legendary. Much like John(onequiknova)'s. Tyco-ish my ass! You, sir, do some inspiring modeling! Yes Jim, we have had this conversation before. Please stop putting yourself down. You are an experienced and accomplished modeler. Own it and enjoy it. There is no need to be so humble about it. Really! I do appreciate the kind words, and I do appreciate the encouragement. I enjoy sharing ideas and techniques as well as the conversation. I do understand that my modeling requires some special tools. Tools that are not common for this hobby or for everyone. I made the decision early on to buy tools instead of loading up on models as well as training myself how to use them and build with them. I do not expect that everyone will rush out and buy the same things I have. I do this because this is the part of the hobby I enjoy the most. Fine Scale Prototype Diesel Modeling. I am a diesel modeler in the same way AFV modelers build armored fighting vehicles. My goal is to simply share my love of this art with the modeling and model railroad community. Brian |
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Post by valenciajim on Sept 20, 2017 16:58:04 GMT -8
Terrific model with excellent weathering.
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Post by nsfantodd on Sept 20, 2017 18:05:51 GMT -8
Amazing job Brian!
Your weathering is on another level!!
I appreciate your willingness to share your techniques, and you models give much inspiration!
Todd
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That Details West Buffer plate was cast from my master. A master that was machined in ABS plastic. The machined parts were excellent. it was the assembly that was not so great. It had to be assembled and I did not do the best of job on that. That was almost what, 10 years ago maybe? Not really Paul's fault. More or less my fault. I still used them though. The buffer plate in the photo was a test to see how well they would print. I find that if you do not have any surface detail the print comes out a little better. The bolt head is an NBW detail part added after cleanup. The cleanup involved a little scraping with the edge of a #11 blade.
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