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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2018 4:25:16 GMT -8
State of the art features include all-new tooling, correct NMRA weight, correct style of trucks with good quality metal wheels, uncoupling levers, air hoses, see-through walkways, cushion underframe detailing and coupler pockets, correct steps, roof, ends, doors, windows, interior, end railings, fullunderbody detailing, era-sensitive detailing such as FRA lights and window coverings, shoving platform configuration asappropriate, twelve road numbers (where accurate), correct coupler height, screw-mounted trucks and couplers for easy servicing and a nice quality window box. Purchase from reputable mfr through regular hobby distribution channels. No upfront deposits required.
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Post by simulatortrain on Sept 7, 2018 4:40:16 GMT -8
I said no lighting but I'd go for markers. Problem is most roads I model use those tiny Pyle ones that are almost impossible to light (still working on that)
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Post by gevohogger on Sept 7, 2018 7:07:58 GMT -8
What does DCC do in a caboose? Or sound, for that matter?
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Post by riogrande on Sept 7, 2018 7:36:37 GMT -8
What does DCC do in a caboose? Or sound, for that matter? The Genesis bay window cabooses DCC controlled the lights on the cabooses; no sound however. |
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Post by edwardsutorik on Sept 7, 2018 7:40:30 GMT -8
I picked the $100 without decoder because I already expect to buy just such an item: the RF&P Historical Society has such a caboose on their to-do list.
"All" the SP&S cabeese will have been done in brass as soon as the North Bank ones show up. So, ones in plastic will be a tough sell. To me.
I'd get some of the later UP CA's. And there's definitely some GN cabeese that would sell here.
I would also pay extra for DCC/lights, but I could skip that if necessary. Sound in a caboose is a waste of money and space. I'd rather have an interior. And a dimmer on the interior lights. Or no interior lights at all--maybe just lit markers.
Ed
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Post by Deleted on Sept 7, 2018 7:44:11 GMT -8
I'd pay good money for a caboose with lighting, and a brakeman with a lantern. Otherwise the electronics and lighting are excessive, and I'd pay good (but less) money for a caboose without the electronics. I'd expect an $85 price point, maybe $125 with electronics - I don't see a reason for sound. Also, this preferred price is pre-Chinese-factory-closure. Who knows what the "new normal" will be once the crack trains start flowing again.
For any manufacturer reading this, the only caboose I'm interested in getting an accurate model of is the Virginia C-1, which is one of the cabeese not being made by SMD. All of the other cabeese I want are made to a "good enough" standard already.
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Post by nstophat on Sept 7, 2018 7:52:31 GMT -8
What does DCC do in a caboose? Or sound, for that matter? DCC for lighting control, sound would be for truck mounted generators, would be my guess. To the OP, I would have no problem buying direct from the manufacturer as well as all of the other items you have listed. Regards, Russ |
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Post by middledivision on Sept 7, 2018 8:04:21 GMT -8
Whatever I paid for my Rapido CP Van. Excellent model with lights.
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Post by craigz on Sept 7, 2018 8:15:03 GMT -8
People are paying $79 for the East Coast Models SAL-specific prototype caboose...
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2018 9:29:56 GMT -8
What does DCC do in a caboose? Or sound, for that matter? |
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Post by bdhicks on Sept 7, 2018 9:37:46 GMT -8
What does DCC do in a caboose? Or sound, for that matter? Interior lighting, directional markers. Whistles, the occasional caboose with internal-combustion generators, wheel clickity-clack. |
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Post by gevohogger on Sept 7, 2018 9:47:07 GMT -8
Yikes! I'll take mine without, thanks. |
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 7, 2018 10:38:16 GMT -8
$75 is about where I'd draw the line. That may seem strange considering what I've spent to 3D print several cabooses, but considering what's been done in RTR at or below that price point in the past, I think an ICC EV caboose, for example, could meet most people's expectations for a $75 street price.
I have no use for decoders or lights and certainly no sound installed in any caboose, though an interior is a must. The lights used by UP and SP to indicate the train is in the clear I understand (I still don't light mine), but I don't run my trains in the dark so markers and lanterns are useless to me. An animated brakeman with a lantern screams tinplate to me. No thanks.
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Post by brakie on Sept 7, 2018 11:10:43 GMT -8
Guys,You do know we used very little interior lights at night-usually the only one on would have been above the conductor's desk.
We had to see out the cupola or bay windows in order to look over the train while presenting a small target for rock throwers.
As far as a brakeman with lantern.. Sorry he would be inside or breaking the safety rules.
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Post by cf7 on Sept 7, 2018 11:28:58 GMT -8
I draw the line at about 25 bucks. I am more of a freelancer and being 100% prototypical means nothing to me.
To me, it just needs to "look" right.
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on Sept 7, 2018 11:29:18 GMT -8
People are paying $79 for the East Coast Models SAL-specific prototype caboose... How many? There are people that really don’t let price get in their way of something they “have to have”. Then there’s the rest of us. |
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Post by sd40dash2 on Sept 7, 2018 11:42:33 GMT -8
$75 is about where I'd draw the line. That may seem strange considering what I've spent to 3D print several cabooses, but considering what's been done in RTR at or below that price point in the past, I think an ICC EV caboose, for example, could meet most people's expectations for a $75 street price. I have no use for decoders or lights and certainly no sound installed in any caboose, though an interior is a must. The lights used by UP and SP to indicate the train is in the clear I understand (I still don't light mine), but I don't run my trains in the dark so markers and lanterns are useless to me. An animated brakeman with a lantern screams tinplate to me. No thanks.
Thanks Ryan. Looks like over 40% of responses agree with you at this point.
If you were thinking of street price, perhaps the market wants an MSRP of $100 on these vans.
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Post by surlyknuckle on Sept 7, 2018 11:58:34 GMT -8
Personally, around $100 for a road-specific caboose. I model the Chessie (B&O), and the choices are A; Find the Overland imported C27As (which I have and are very nice), or B; build the Wrightrak resin C26 kit (I have two, unbuilt).
I'm good on C27As, but I still need 26/26A, or 27s. And I don't mind paying $100 without all the bells and whistle as long as they would be correct. The reason I'm okay with paying that is I'd only need an example or two of each, or maybe three if only one class was done. I don't need that many trains running at the same time, hence I don't need 10 cabooses. I have 3 road cabooses now (C27As) and that suits me fine, but I would welcome more class-specific models. In other words, I don't need many to establish a fleet. I may need a half dozen to a dozen of certain types of freight cars to establish fleet presence, or like 6 GP40s to model a "fleet". Invest once in a few really nice cabooses, and you'll never have to pay for correct ones again.
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Post by fr8kar on Sept 7, 2018 15:38:15 GMT -8
Thanks Ryan. Looks like over 40% of responses agree with you at this point. If you were thinking of street price, perhaps the market wants an MSRP of $100 on these vans. Exactly. I'd love it if something comparable to the Genesis SP caboose could be delivered today at the original MSRP of that model, but it's not going to happen. |
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Post by Paul Cutler III on Sept 7, 2018 16:24:27 GMT -8
This is a weird poll for me since as a NH fan I'm well served by the Atlas NE-6 at $46 and the Intermountain NE-5 at $50. The NE-2 can be bashed pretty easily from a Bowser PRR N5 at $28. I really don't have a desire for anything better (the wood caboose fleet didn't last long after WWII), and now $50 is about my limit.
Now before the plastic NE-5 and NE-6's came out, I would have paid (and did pay) $100 for the older brass versions, and that was without interior or lights. And I'm glad because most lit cabooses look as bright as an operating room.
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Sept 7, 2018 19:01:11 GMT -8
Spring Mills Depot offers Brass quality plastic cabooses for less than $75. So if they were to their standards I'd be happy.
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Post by bncascadegreen on Sept 9, 2018 19:17:55 GMT -8
I’m in for accurate BN cabooses. Even ex not repainted merger ones. Had a bunch of brass on reserve but OMI is at a standstill(?). So a plastic/hybrid would work seems like the era and railroad I model aren’t receiving much love from manufacturers. So for now I’m doing mostly 2000 to now BNSF. With hopes of mid 80s to the 2000 time frame for BN into BNSF has more desirable models available. We will see what time brings. Been at this since 6 years old soon to be 40. So manufacturers might need to bump this 80s models up a bit more....and we aren’t just talking cabooses. I have three sons to pass models on to, which is great considering all the brass I have accumulated. My daughter has her hobbies- thank God it’s not model trains.....need some power and freight cars, cabooses will always be needed if done right, I just need marker lights to work.
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Post by brokenrail on Sept 12, 2018 11:07:47 GMT -8
I have agree about the interior lights for cabooses. We just didn't use them other than the conductors desk. However on BN cabooses the rear spotlight was usually on (if it worked) to look for chewed up ties behind the train. When inside a caboose at night we preserved our night vision by keeping the interior dark. You'd keep your lantern handy if you needed to look at orders or something. Brakeman on the rear with a lantern? Usually only when meeting another train when you were required to be on the platform to inspect the other train and give a highball to the other freezing brakeman. Of course we rode outside on some (but not all) shoving moves. If it was cold we might just exit to get the best view going over crossings.
And sound? The very best part of a caboose ride would be the dead silence when stopped. A pleasant relief to the ear splitting noise of a steel caboose at speed. And squealing flanges? Realistic sure but annoying as hell. Diesel smoke is realistic too but we don't fill up our train rooms with it to feel the realism. At least I hope not.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 12, 2018 11:44:41 GMT -8
The only lighting really required for my cabooses would be LED markers with a single or two function decoder.
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cp9002
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Post by cp9002 on Sept 12, 2018 17:24:40 GMT -8
I have agree about the interior lights for cabooses. We just didn't use them other than the conductors desk. However on BN cabooses the rear spotlight was usually on (if it worked) to look for chewed up ties behind the train. When inside a caboose at night we preserved our night vision by keeping the interior dark. You'd keep your lantern handy if you needed to look at orders or something. Brakeman on the rear with a lantern? Usually only when meeting another train when you were required to be on the platform to inspect the other train and give a highball to the other freezing brakeman. Of course we rode outside on some (but not all) shoving moves. If it was cold we might just exit to get the best view going over crossings. And sound? The very best part of a caboose ride would be the dead silence when stopped. A pleasant relief to the ear splitting noise of a steel caboose at speed. And squealing flanges? Realistic sure but annoying as hell. Diesel smoke is realistic too but we don't fill up our train rooms with it to feel the realism. At least I hope not. Some railroads such as CP Rail, had generators in their cabooses. That would be about the only other sound I can really think of. |
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Post by elfan on Sept 14, 2018 8:27:46 GMT -8
I’d pay up to $100 for an accurate,quality caboose model. The lights/DCC could be offered as an aftermarket add on along the lines of Walters passenger car models.
The quality would have to be equivalent to Tangent/Exactrail/SpringMills. I’ve already paid $50 for resin kits for which I then had to add trucks,couplers,paint,decals and time,so $100 for a quality RTR is not outrageous. That being said,I might not buy as many as if it was cheaper,but I would be in the market for quite a few...if they were an Erie/EL prototype!
Tom
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Post by riogrande on Sept 14, 2018 8:54:45 GMT -8
For what it's worth, the Centralia Shops C-40-4 Southern Pacific bay window cabooses are very nice and detailed but no lights and they were selling in the $40-50 range.
Todays costs would be higher so anywhere between $50 and $100 is in the ball park I'd say.
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Post by mvlandsw on Sept 17, 2018 9:37:26 GMT -8
And sound? The very best part of a caboose ride would be the dead silence when stopped. A pleasant relief to the ear splitting noise of a steel caboose at speed. And squealing flanges? Realistic sure but annoying as hell. Diesel smoke is realistic too but we don't fill up our train rooms with it to feel the realism. At least I hope not. Some railroads such as CP Rail, had generators in their cabooses. That would be about the only other sound I can really think of. B&O cabooses had a whistle that sounded when the air brakes were released. This provided a warning that the train may be about to move. They also had a whistle on each end to be used in backup moves.
The sound of the handbrake being applied and released would be interesting.
Coupler clank and the sound of the air brakes going into emergency could be used.
The sound of the slack running out as the train starts could be used.
Mark Vinski
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Post by roadkill on Sept 17, 2018 12:29:44 GMT -8
Slack sounds coming from only a caboose would sound pretty cheesy.
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Post by Deleted on Sept 17, 2018 13:11:45 GMT -8
No sound necessary for a caboose, IMO. We are getting into the MTH or Lionel territory here, IMO.
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