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Post by valenciajim on Dec 1, 2012 10:23:38 GMT -8
I got the January issue of Model Railroader. There is an interesting article about kitbashing a Heljan HO scale roundhouse. On page 51 there is section in the article about painting the brick walls. The caption to the first picture says the author blends Floquil paints to randomly cover the unrealistically uniform color of the molded plastic brick. There is a pallet of paint in the picture that looks like the paint came out of a tube. It does not look like Floquil paint unless Floquil now sells its paint in tubes. It really looks like the author used acrylic paints from a tube or jar and MR gave Floquil a plug. Is it just me or I am being overly suspicious? Other than this, the article is pretty good. Will probably end up being republished in some future Kalmbach book.
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Post by calzephyr on Dec 1, 2012 11:35:28 GMT -8
I got the January issue of Model Railroader. There is an interesting article about kitbashing a Heljan HO scale roundhouse. On page 51 there is section in the article about painting the brick walls. The caption to the first picture says the author blends Floquil paints to randomly cover the unrealistically uniform color of the molded plastic brick. There is a pallet of paint in the picture that looks like the paint came out of a tube. It does not look like Floquil paint unless Floquil now sells its paint in tubes. It really looks like the author used acrylic paints from a tube or jar and MR gave Floquil a plug. Is it just me or I am being overly suspicious? Other than this, the article is pretty good. Will probably end up being republished in some future Kalmbach book. Jim I have not received my Jan copy yet, but would guess that the paint in the tube was used also. Floquil might have been used also as a weathering agent over the other paint. I use Floquil for weathering over Scale Coat as a base on all brass models. Floquil is normally very flat and the sand and grimy color makes for a great final look. An email to the editor might clear up the details. I emailed them last month and got back a nice reply. Larry
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Post by calzephyr on Dec 3, 2012 15:08:20 GMT -8
I got the January issue of Model Railroader. There is an interesting article about kitbashing a Heljan HO scale roundhouse. On page 51 there is section in the article about painting the brick walls. The caption to the first picture says the author blends Floquil paints to randomly cover the unrealistically uniform color of the molded plastic brick. There is a pallet of paint in the picture that looks like the paint came out of a tube. It does not look like Floquil paint unless Floquil now sells its paint in tubes. It really looks like the author used acrylic paints from a tube or jar and MR gave Floquil a plug. Is it just me or I am being overly suspicious? Other than this, the article is pretty good. Will probably end up being republished in some future Kalmbach book. Jim I have not received my Jan copy yet, but would guess that the paint in the tube was used also. Floquil might have been used also as a weathering agent over the other paint. I use Floquil for weathering over Scale Coat as a base on all brass models. Floquil is normally very flat and the sand and grimy color makes for a great final look. An email to the editor might clear up the details. I emailed them last month and got back a nice reply. Larry jim I received my January copy and the article does say he used both types of paint on the project. I mix paints the same way to obtain texture and use chalk in addition to paint to simulate certain textures on weathering. Larry
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Post by valenciajim on Dec 5, 2012 19:48:04 GMT -8
Thanks Larry--I had not considered simulating texture by adding chalk. I might experiment with that this weekend.
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Post by fr8kar on Dec 6, 2012 6:43:14 GMT -8
Thanks Larry--I had not considered simulating texture by adding chalk. I might experiment with that this weekend. Many times when I need to make a rusty roof, I will apply some burnt umber and burnt sienna artists oils on the model, then sprinkle some weathering powders or chalks over the wet oil for texture. It's very effective with the oils since they take hours to dry, whereas normal enamel or acrylic paints are dry in minutes. This car was painted entirely with artists oils (sort of an odd experiment that I probably won't repeat) and the weathering powders were applied directly to the wet rusty paint on the roof, ends and sides: This technique really helps capture the ultra-dull and porous look of bare rusted metal.
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Post by valenciajim on Dec 6, 2012 17:41:12 GMT -8
Wow-that looks great. Why is there a problem with acrylics ans why does the drying time make a difference? Thanks for sharing.
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Post by fr8kar on Dec 6, 2012 21:52:17 GMT -8
Thanks, Jim. The difference is by the time you get the acrylics or enamels painted on in the particular pattern or shape you're trying to achieve, at least some portion is dry. What you're looking for is getting powder down on wet paint. Unless the paint is wet, the powders don't get in and soak up the moisture from the paint. When they soak up the paint, it gives a nice crusty texture. Powders on top of dry paint are just flat.
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Post by calzephyr on Dec 7, 2012 13:00:40 GMT -8
Thanks Larry--I had not considered simulating texture by adding chalk. I might experiment with that this weekend. Many times when I need to make a rusty roof, I will apply some burnt umber and burnt sienna artists oils on the model, then sprinkle some weathering powders or chalks over the wet oil for texture. It's very effective with the oils since they take hours to dry, whereas normal enamel or acrylic paints are dry in minutes. This car was painted entirely with artists oils (sort of an odd experiment that I probably won't repeat) and the weathering powders were applied directly to the wet rusty paint on the roof, ends and sides: This technique really helps capture the ultra-dull and porous look of bare rusted metal. That is a great job. Larry
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