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Post by edwardsutorik on Dec 31, 2022 16:34:16 GMT -8
I am separating the control of the two headlights on several diesels.
I expect to be using F0 to dim the front headlight. I also need a function button to do the same for the rear headlight, on those occasions it's required.
So I'm trying to puzzle out which would be the best choice out of F4 through F9 (less F8). I would guess F9, so as to stay away from some of the sound effects and flashing lights that show up for the lower numbers.
But I thought I'd ask, being as youse guys know stuff. And I'd rather find out sooner than later that I was, uh, wrong.
Thanks,
Ed
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Post by ncrc5315 on Dec 31, 2022 17:25:33 GMT -8
Since the rear headlight isn't used that often, I map it to button 23, but that's just me.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 1, 2023 6:49:01 GMT -8
Since the rear headlight isn't used that often, I map it to button 23, but that's just me. Thanks. Glad I asked. I do believe that makes sense. Ed |
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Post by mvlandsw on Jan 1, 2023 14:33:22 GMT -8
What brand of decoder? ESU uses F9 for drive hold. F0 usually turns the headlights on or off.
I like to use F0 for the front headlight, F5 for the rear light, and F6 to dim either or both.
Functions above F9 are not convenient to access on most systems which is ok if not used frequently.
Mark
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 1, 2023 15:34:27 GMT -8
Well, either ESU or Soundtraxx, depending on which loco(s). But I'm hoping to used the same function buttons for the lights on all the different decoders. Standardization, if possible.
I do think that the first layer (F0 thru F9) should be used for functions that are activated during a train's run. Class lights would be an example of what would then NOT be there, as those are turned on and off before and after the run, when there's plenty of time. I can also do without some of the kitchy things on the front, like coupler clash.
Ed
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wsor
Full Member
The Route of the Ruptured Duck
Posts: 131
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Post by wsor on Jan 1, 2023 17:15:48 GMT -8
On ESU, I remap rear headlight to F3 (getting rid of coupler sound). I also turn on Rule 17 for the lights, which enables dim when stopped, and dim in opposite direction.
To dim both lights is usually F12, which is easy to access on my Digitrax controllers, or Engine Driver on Android device.
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Post by mvlandsw on Jan 2, 2023 19:01:35 GMT -8
The GP7s and GP9s that I worked on had a single dimmer that controlled both the front and back headlights. It was a heavy duty potentiometer with the power input wired to the center connection. The outer connections each went to one of the headlights. There was also an on/off switch for each light in the circuit. If both lights were on and the dimmer was centered both lights would be dim. By moving the dimmer toward one end or the other the corresponding light would increase in brightness in a constantly variable manner, while the opposite light remained on dim. Thus it was not possible to have both headlights on bright at the same time.
Some times sparks would fly from the dimmer as the contact slid over the resistance coil of wire in the device.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 2, 2023 20:47:59 GMT -8
Thanks, all.
Here's where I'm leaning:
F0 will be front headlight, on and off
F3 will be rear headlight, on and off (just don't see the need of coupler clank)
F14 will be front headlight, dim and off
F15 will be rear headlight, dim and off
If a locomotive is switching in a yard, F14 and F15 will be on. F0 and F3 will be off. Dim headlights all around.
If a locomotive is leading a consist, F14 will be on and F15 will be off. F0 will be used to toggle between dim and bright. F3 will remain off. Lead headlight can be dimmed as necessary.
I put the dimmed headlights in the "second tier" because that state would likely never change during a shift. So set-it-and-forget-it.
For a road setup, I will have a headlight that can be either bright or dim, using a "first tier" function button--easily found and used.
Ed
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Post by nebrzephyr on Jan 3, 2023 7:03:04 GMT -8
Ed, no locos with either beacon and/or ditch lights? That's when function mapping gets really interesting Bob
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 3, 2023 7:56:03 GMT -8
Ed, no locos with either beacon and/or ditch lights? That's when function mapping gets really interesting Bob Well, the one I just finished has only headlights. I'm next working on a switcher with SP lights. I am entertaining the idea of that loco never having any emergencies. If you get my drift. It's another old Athearn MP15AC that is "sound" equipped (I used quotes because the "sound" is really awful). Also, it's less roomy than a road loco. These are both using Loksound, and I've found their tutorials. And I've got a Lokprogrammer, which I used to load the sound into the decoder. Ed |
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Post by Gino Damen on Jan 3, 2023 12:41:52 GMT -8
Hi,
I currently am reworking the functionmapping on my ESU Loksound decoders. This is a tedious job but following is the intended end result.
F0: Master Light
Driving Forward: Forward, F0, not F14 : Driving Forward, Lights are on, F14 is not active = Short Hood Headlight on + Ditchlights off
Driving Reverse: Reverse, F0, not F13 : Direction Reverse, Lights are on, F13 is not active = Long Hood Headlight on + Ditchlights off, if the engine has them
F1: Bell
F2: Horn
F3: Drive Hold
F4: Dynamic Brake (slows down at 15mph)
F5: Independent Brake + Dynamic Brake (takes to a total stilstand. Can be linked to the center position of the wiFred direction switch)
F6: Volume
F7: Dim Headlights + Ditchlights off
F8: Engine + active delay (when no sound, F8=off, the delay is also set to zero)
F9: Coast / Idle
F10: Coupler Crash (just sound function)
F11: „Heavy Load“ (Less then „Alternative Last“ → less delay)
F12: Handbrake (just the sound)
F13: Long Hood Headlight (+ Ditchlights) off, if the engine has them (toggle function)
F14: Short Hood Headlight (+ Ditchlights) off, if the engine has them (toggle function)
F15: Long Hood DPU light on (dimmed Rearlight) (toggle function)
F16: Short Hood DPU light on (dimmed Headlight) (toggle function)
Four functions (F13, F14, F15 and F16) control the way the lights work. These functions self don’t control physical outputs, logical functions or sounds. They act like ON/OFF switches for the various light functions.
F7 is also an ON/OFF switch but only for the ditch lights. The headlights are dimmed with this function by activating the logical function “dimmer”.
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Post by mvlandsw on Jan 3, 2023 16:16:57 GMT -8
Doing something like Gino does shows how versatile ESU decoders and the LokProgrammer are. I don't know if Soundtrax decoders can recognize a negative function.
For consists that will always stay together I program all the units to the same address, although a consist can also be a single unit. I use F3 as a change end function. The lead unit has functions such as headlight, bell, horn, ditch lights, and any thing else that you only want to operate on the lead unit programmed as F0 not F3, F1 not F3, F2 not F3, etc.
The trailing unit has its corresponding functions programmed as F0 F3, F1 F3, F2 F3, etc. Thus when you activate F3 the desired functions become active on the other end of the consist. I sometimes find that having the horn active on all units gives a more pleasant sound.
Other sounds can be added to F3. I have used the alarm bell which will ring on the prototype if the engineer follows the prescribed procedure for positioning electrical switches on the control stand. Cab doors slamming is another.
I use F5 with the F3 qualifier to light the rear headlight on a consist for backing moves.
I can't claim this as an original idea as I read about someone doing it for a push pull train on a forum somewhere.
NCE command stations do something similar automatically when setting up consists.
Mark
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Post by sd80mac on Jan 6, 2023 10:33:26 GMT -8
I always do F0 for front headlight, F1 for the rear, and F7 to dim either one.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 6, 2023 10:47:58 GMT -8
I always do F0 for front headlight, F1 for the rear, and F7 to dim either one. Can you do that for decoders other than Loksound? Top o' the list would be Tsunami 1 and 2, since I've got a fair amount of Athearns. After that, I dunno. TCS comes to mind. But I suspect I'll likely end up with only the ESU and Soundtraxx. Ed |
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Post by sd80mac on Jan 6, 2023 11:17:44 GMT -8
I always do F0 for front headlight, F1 for the rear, and F7 to dim either one. Can you do that for decoders other than Loksound? Top o' the list would be Tsunami 1 and 2, since I've got a fair amount of Athearns. After that, I dunno. TCS comes to mind. But I suspect I'll likely end up with only the ESU and Soundtraxx. Ed Yes, every decoder I've encountered can be configured that way. No idea on the CVs, I use JMRI Decoder Pro which only involves checking and un-checking a few boxes. |
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Post by cemr5396 on Jan 7, 2023 13:14:24 GMT -8
I always do F0 for front headlight, F1 for the rear, and F7 to dim either one. Can you do that for decoders other than Loksound? Top o' the list would be Tsunami 1 and 2, since I've got a fair amount of Athearns. yep, it's all a matter of function mapping everything where you want it. I've never used a Tsunami (1), but the TSU 2 is fully re mappable. Any function can be moved to any function button or disabled entirely. So if there are things you would never use you can 'un-map' them and use that button for something else. I like to use F13 for number boards or class lights on certain units, so I un map the coupler sound effect (which I never use) from that button, and then map the appropriate lighting effect to that button. On units that are not equipped with dynamic brakes, I un-map them so that even if someone hits the button by accident, nothing happens. In SD80MAC's example you would have to find something to do with the bell, as that is typically F1. |
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abm
Junior Member
Posts: 65
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Post by abm on Jan 8, 2023 20:49:55 GMT -8
Regarding the TS1's... all (or almost all?) the functions can be re-mapped, but you can't just move them anywhere you'd like... it's a little hard to describe, but there's a chart/matrix in Sountraxx's manual for those decoders which shows what can go where.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 9, 2023 8:22:24 GMT -8
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Post by wjstix on Jan 11, 2023 6:45:41 GMT -8
FWIW, where the decoder and engine allow for separating the lighting functions, I like to use F0 for the front headlight, F7 for the numberboards, and F4 for the rear headlight. That keeps the lighting function button groups, and out of the way of the most common sound buttons (F1 bell, F2 long horn, F3 short horn). Once turned on, the front and rear headlights are set to automatically be bright in direction of travel, with the other light dim. I find it handy when switching to be able to look at the sitting engine and know for sure which direction it's set to go without it needing to move.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Jan 11, 2023 7:36:23 GMT -8
I find it handy when switching to be able to look at the sitting engine and know for sure which direction it's set to go without it needing to move. Why not just look at the display on the throttle for direction? Ed |
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abm
Junior Member
Posts: 65
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Post by abm on Jan 12, 2023 22:23:10 GMT -8
I find it handy when switching to be able to look at the sitting engine and know for sure which direction it's set to go without it needing to move. Why not just look at the display on the throttle for direction? Ed I have run into exactly this myself. Depending on how you have your throttle set up, it's possible to get accustomed to it such that when switching you just stop looking at it (the throttle display). For instance the ESU CabControl throttle has a thumb-wheel for speed which can change the direction if you rock it CCW... it also has 4 programmable function buttons on the side, so with one hand I can change direction, change speed, control the brake, horn and bell... without ever looking at the display. True story: many years ago I worked for a few different shortline railroads. Mostly in MofW and as a diesel mechanic but I also worked the ground and every so often, ran the engine. One operation had an ex-Army FM switcher with a sideways-U-shaped throttle control which combined the throttle and reverser into one handle; when the throttle handle was in one position, up or down I can't recall, the locomotive was in forward; move it up or down to the other position, you're in reverse, then slide it fore-aft for the throttle control (no notches, either). There were no readily apparent markings (and no lights! We did most of our switching at night) indicating whether "up" or "down" was "forward" or "reverse". On more than one occasion when the ground man asked for ahead, I lurched backwards, and vice-versa. I didn't like running it and never ran it enough to really get comfortable with it, though my buddy who usually ran got used to it and we could really switch fast with that thing (it loaded quickly as well). I much preferred running our Geep which had separate throttle and reverser handles, like most locomotives; responding to the ground man's signal and making sure the reverser was in the correct position was as simple as slapping/bumping it with your hand, day or night. |
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Post by sd80mac on Jan 14, 2023 8:29:51 GMT -8
Don't feel bad about not knowing what direction your locomotive is going, that happens on the real ones a lot more than you think!
While I have never encountered a real locomotive that has real headlights, I have been on several former Conrail locomotives that have their ditch lights tied into the reverser. Flipping the switch to "On" and putting the unit in FWD would turn on the front ditch lights, REV would turn on the rear.
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