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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on May 9, 2023 5:27:39 GMT -8
I just purchased my first NEW Bowser product, a C(M?)630 in BC green, dcc ready?, no sound anyhow…I have a ESU Loksound V5 I intend to put in it. Q1: Only documents in the box are ref: lubrication, I thought modern loco models didn’t need additional lubrication, the sheet shows HOW it’s done but says it’s lightly lubed in assembly…so, should I lube it now? Q2: Where do I find how to put in the decoder? The “exploded” diagram on the website seems rather incomplete. I’ve not found anything about this particular model. I’ve done dozens of dcc/sound installations, not afraid to dig in, but don’t want to mess this one up. Someday I’ll learn to bite the bullet and just buy sound equipped, but after just buying a new supply of bullets also on sale, the funds on hand at the time of the locomotive sale were thin. (Not like it’s the last sale to ever be….). Q3: Almost forget, any suggestion on removing BCRail logo on cab sides? The colors are close enough to one of my Kentucky Southern paint schemes I’m not going to strip this and repaint, just enhance the paint job. Any assistance/suggestions will be greatly appreciated.  |
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Post by drsvelte on May 9, 2023 6:08:42 GMT -8
I'm trying to strip the paint/printing on a Bowser 100-ton hopper and its not going too well. I'm using 91% isopropyl and its been 48 hours with very little effect. They must be using a pretty sturdy paint and/or print process. I have a little Scalecoat Wash-Away that I may try.
For removing pad-printed small numbers/letters without damaging the underlying paint, some people swear by the Solvaset-on-a-paper-towel. Some have suggested a little sanding with a pencil eraser. I've never had what I would call success with either of those.
As they said on an old TV show: "be careful out there."
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Post by jonklein611 on May 9, 2023 6:11:19 GMT -8
It's a M630: www.bowser-trains.com/history/mlwm630loco.htmlExec = Executive Line: Ready to Run, super detailed, numbered, with DCC and Sound or Analog (DC). DCC and Sound version features LokSound Select decoder. Analog (DC) version has 21 pin socket for DCC module. I doubt it needs lubrication, most models have enough lube to last quite some time. For decoder install, remove shell, insert 21 pin decoder onto the existing circuit board.  |
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on May 9, 2023 6:19:12 GMT -8
As they said on an old TV show: "be careful out there."  Hill Street Blues 1981-1986 Michael Conrad aka Sgt Esterhaus…. Formative show in the mid point of my 26yr law enforcement career….an autographed photo of Betty Thomas, Officer Lucy Bates, hung in my locker at work for years… |
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on May 9, 2023 6:23:32 GMT -8
Jonklein611
Thank you!
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Post by Deleted on May 9, 2023 6:36:48 GMT -8
To be clear:
Nobody's new diesels need or should require lubrication when they are new.
However, when you read the instructions, most manufacturers clearly state that if engines are used a lot, it might become necessary to lubricate them. For that reason most manufacturers, including Bowser, provide instructions on how to get the shell off and what to lubricate. If a bearing squeals, then it does most definitely need lubrication. You will absolutely know when you hear that sound as it is unmistakeable.
Also, I still routinely lubricate axle bearings with just a drop of oil.
I have had the occasional brand new Athearn locomotive that has a bearing that does require lubrication--it is clearly evident as you hear a screeching sound, even if it is only a soft screech. I remove the shell, add a drop of oil to the 6 points (each side of worm housing where shaft passes through and on the motor bearings on the back side or outside of the motor frame away from the windings, where the driveshaft enters the motor.
Absolutely DO NOT add oil to 2022 or newer ScaleTrains driveshafts where they enter the motor because they have a recent issue with oil wicking through the bearing into the motor, and then subsequently the oil combines with brush shavings to destroy the motor. They are lightly lubricated at the factory, and unless they actually squeal, do not lubricate them further as you absolutely risk damaging the motor itself due to the oil wicking through the bearing. They do have a 1 year warranty which can be extended to 2 years by registering the product.
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Post by lvrr325 on May 9, 2023 9:00:52 GMT -8
Worth noting that anything that sits a long time may need some help, a little lube or penetrant to get them going like new again. Probably doesn't apply here, these aren't that old I don't think, but if for some reason it's not running right that could be why.
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Post by theengineshed on May 9, 2023 14:17:10 GMT -8
Q3 I'd also go first with the Solvaset-on-a-paper-towel. If that doesn't work, my fall back is a fiberglass brush.
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on May 9, 2023 15:23:04 GMT -8
Q3 I'd also go first with the Solvaset-on-a-paper-towel. If that doesn't work, my fall back is a fiberglass brush. Thanks...i appreciate the input. |
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on May 11, 2023 5:39:25 GMT -8
For removing pad-printed small numbers/letters without damaging the underlying paint, some people swear by the Solvaset-on-a-paper-towel. Some have suggested a little sanding with a pencil eraser. I've never had what I would call success with either of those. As they said on an old TV show: "be careful out there." Microscale RED label Micro Sol and an eraser removed the cab logo as i had wished. No damage to color base save for reducing the matte, more shiny. Next I'm putting a logo of my own Rwy there in place. Then I'll mask off and dust it with some matte/flat lightly. |
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Post by kentuckysouthernrwy on May 14, 2023 10:44:39 GMT -8
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Post by Deleted on May 14, 2023 12:24:00 GMT -8
I have lots of new diesels from Athearn, Atlas, Bowser, and ScaleTrains. Most of them have excess lubricant oozing out of the trucks or dripping off.
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Post by edwardsutorik on May 14, 2023 12:30:15 GMT -8
Interesting. I do, too; and I've only got a few that "piddle". Certainly less than 10%. But that's just me.
Ed
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