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Post by tony on Apr 22, 2024 14:09:37 GMT -8
Does anyone have photos of the Rock Island car. Can we review this one please? My first impression before seeing the artwork is that they would have the aluminum painted doors, but the artwork had BCR doors. Which might be correct, but have not seen photos of these. I was planning to run this car with RI Exactrail Vert-a-paks.
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Post by tony on Apr 22, 2024 14:14:12 GMT -8
Two things on the real Good Times cars that stand out to me - the real ones are not consistent in a.) the extended height white border; b.) the positioning of the car number. I suspect if you don't have photos of both sides of the real car you don't really know, because you can't assume the lettering positions are exact.
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Post by ChessieFan1978 on Apr 22, 2024 14:42:40 GMT -8
What is the other model they did? I only recall the flat. I hope that GP40 they did is better the well car well car + depressed center flat + these thrall boxes = 3 Ed They also released several containers and loads for their flatcars/well cars. The loads are nice. |
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Post by unittrain on Apr 22, 2024 15:40:58 GMT -8
One thing about the paint schemes as delivered there would be a definite font ect, the repaints such as Conrail they probably often used whatever stencils were around Bluford Shops mentioned that Conrail used EL stencils on a few of their 86' boxcar repaints, I don't remember which car it was as it was released years ago but it was one of there pullman standard 86' boxcars. I just finally unboxed some of mine the models are really well done detail wise, I like the more durable door rods and stirrups on these. Hope they do better with the lettering next time.
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Post by mvlandsw on Apr 22, 2024 16:41:41 GMT -8
I never had any trouble with sagging 40 or 50 foot flats. The TTX long flats should actually be humped up slightly in the center. I put a truss rod in the center sill to make my Athearn car do that.
I fastened a piece of Nichrome wire to the weight with a screw just inside of the truck bolster at one end of the car. I ran several amps of current through the wire to heat and stretch it, and then quickly wrapped it around another screw at the opposite end of the car.
When the wire cooled and shrank it provided tension to hold the weight to the proper shape.
Mark
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Post by unittrain on Apr 23, 2024 13:53:29 GMT -8
Just had time to open my Pennsylvania railroad one and it looks pretty good but the keystone logo is way too big 😳.
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Post by locochris on May 5, 2024 10:32:22 GMT -8
Anyone try swapping out the couplers on these cars yet?
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Post by unittrain on May 7, 2024 5:00:38 GMT -8
All the sold out skus are now showing in-stock or low stock 🤔 looks like this release could go pretty bad for C1M. So anyone wanting these that were sold out nows your chance 😁.
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Post by tony on May 7, 2024 7:33:23 GMT -8
Just got an email from them. 2 weeks ago they were about 85% sold off, now everything is back in stock, with some low.
The model design looks very well done, but some people have pointed out flaws in the decoration artwork. So now, we need a check list of which road names have correct lettering and accuracy degree.
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Post by Colin 't Hart on May 7, 2024 22:40:11 GMT -8
The model design looks very well done, but some people have pointed out flaws in the decoration artwork. So now, we need a check list of which road names have correct lettering and accuracy degree. The artwork has serious flaws. This makes me question the accuracy of the underlying model. |
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Post by edwardsutorik on May 8, 2024 5:14:25 GMT -8
So. Upcoming GP40's by: Rapido, Class One, ScaleTrains Which to choose?  ? Ed |
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Post by riogrande on May 8, 2024 8:10:56 GMT -8
So. Upcoming GP40's by: Rapido, Class One, ScaleTrains Which to choose? ? Ed I'm not sure about the Rapido GP40, but the ClassOne and ScaleTrains G40's represent early and late phase GP40's, respectively. For D&RGW ClassOneModelWorks will represent the early GP40 with the small Rio Grande logo (D&RGW Road numbers 3041-3080) For D&RGW the ScaleTrains GP40 represents a late model GP40 just before the GP40-2 was introduced and have the large Rio Grande logo (D&RGW road numbers 3086-3093). - |
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Post by packer on May 8, 2024 8:28:17 GMT -8
So. Upcoming GP40's by: Rapido, Class One, ScaleTrains Which to choose? ? Ed Given only one of those companies doesn't have a bad rap on the forums, probably the latter. |
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Post by jonklein611 on May 8, 2024 8:39:32 GMT -8
From Rapido's Master Class: Here is a list of many of these options and variations: - A wide variety of air horns, snowplows, bell styles (and placement) were found on GP40s. Checking photos is advisable.
- Perhaps the most obvious variation on GP40s is the presence, or absence, of dynamic brakes and the resultant bulges on the long hood. A few GP40s had their dynamic brakes removed, with the d/b bulges’ grilles blanked over. And, other times, dynamic brakes were added, as happened when Santa Fe acquired TP&W’s only
- GP40 (and it became ATSF’s only GP40) and added dynamic brakes to it.
- The earliest GP40s were constructed with the early-style radiator fans (with a “pan” in the center), and at some point the newer fans, without the “pan”, were installed. This also applies to dynamic brake fans, should a locomotive be so equipped.
- There were at least three different stepwells used on GP40s:
- The standard version and the version often known as the “switcher” version, which has a more vertical step arrangement to allow a crewman to comfortably – and safely – stand on the bottom step when switching cars. Santa Fe and Burlington Northern GP38s featured this option. (So, that’s two, combined into just one bullet point! Why? Just to confuse you…)
- Canadian Pacific’s GP38s, having been constructed at GMD in Canada, were built with Canadian-style stepwells.
- Fuel tanks were ordered in a variety of sizes, determined by the type of service in which a railroad’s locomotives would be assigned.
- Battery box covers varied somewhat in design, with variations of louvers, bolt patterns and, on B&O/C&O units, slots for enhanced cooling.
- While all GP40 locomotives were delivered with class lights, as time progressed and they were no longer deemed necessary they were removed and replaced by gasketed blanks, plated over or neatly and smoothly filled in.
- As usual, Norfolk & Western, specified high short-hoods (commonly called “high-noses”) on their GP40s. Along with this option, they also had the control stands installed on the opposite side of the cab in order to operate their GPs in either direction, including long-hood forward.
- As might be expected, there were a few lighting options on GP40s. Most were built with a twin sealed-beam headlight between the cab’s numberboards, but a few were delivered with other variations:
- Cotton Belt’s GP40s featured all the distinctive lighting specified for parent company Southern Pacific’s diesels: Dual Gyralights on the cab, between the numberboards, and a single red Gyralight in the nose, above the horizontally mounted twin sealed-beam headlight.
- Denver & Rio Grande Western’s GP40s, as with their other hood diesels, were built with a twin-Mars signal lights in the nose. However, some later units may have been delivered with Pyle lights, and as Mars lights failed many were replaced with Pyle lights.
- Western Pacific GP40s 3501-3516 were built with large single-bulb Pyle headlights between the cab’s numberboards and a similar Pyle “barrel” light on the rear. This large headlight was later removed and a twin sealed-beam headlight installed on the large area that used to house the single-bulb headlight.
- Western Pacific GP40s 3517-3544 were built with a twin-Pyle signal lights in the nose.
- As visibility and safety requirements changed, ditchlights were added to these locomotives.
- Detroit Toledo & Ironton’s GP38ACs were delivered with gong bells applied to to their low short-hoods (aka “noses”).
- Some late production GP40s, such as those purchased by Western Maryland, were constructed with ribbed blower housings, typically a spotting feature on GP40-2s but actually introduced in mid-1971, six months before the Dash 2 line was introduced.
- Disclaimer: Many of the parts were interchangeable, and as individual locomotives were serviced (or rebuilt following minor skirmishes with forces beyond normal wear and tear – that is, accidents) parts were often switched, resulting in a locomotive with mixed early and late fans, or battery box covers were changed, solid bearing trucks could end up with different styles of journal housings, et cetera. And, for additional fun, often the paint on these parts didn’t match, either. Of course, changes to rules or other requirements would result in changes, too, such as the removal of class lights in a variety of ways (as mentioned earlier … Don’t make me repeat myself!). This is all part of the fun of modeling a fleet of locomotives – the variations, often subtle and other times painfully obvious, over time give each locomotive a personality.
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Post by riogrande on May 8, 2024 8:57:36 GMT -8
Joseph Strapac's book (at home) has some notes about the last phase GP40 - from memory, extended dynamic brakes. On the fireman's side, the DB blister looks similar to the GP40 DB. GP40's manufactured prior to that had a truncated DB blister on the front sides.
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Post by Baikal on May 8, 2024 8:58:21 GMT -8
- Cotton Belt’s GP40s featured all the distinctive lighting specified for parent company Southern Pacific’s diesels: Dual Gyralights on the cab, between the numberboards, and a single red Gyralight in the nose, above the horizontally mounted twin sealed-beam headlight.
In the mid-late 70s these eight units were not uncommon in SoCal. I'd see one once a week or so. They must have been assigned to thru service on the Sunset Route. Same with Cotton Belt's 10 GP30s... and many other SSW 2nd-gen units which were mixed freely with SP power.
Unlike UP's 24 GP35s which were relatively rare in the area.
So if you're modeling SP SoCal in that period you have some justification for one.
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Post by schroed2 on May 8, 2024 23:52:28 GMT -8
The model design looks very well done, but some people have pointed out flaws in the decoration artwork. So now, we need a check list of which road names have correct lettering and accuracy degree. The artwork has serious flaws. This makes me question the accuracy of the underlying model. well, I just received one car in SP decoration and compared it to a Tangent model of a similar prototype. I was NOT impressed by the Class One artwork. also, the car body ist slightly longer (about 1mm) for Class One then for Tangent. |
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Post by lyonwonder on May 9, 2024 19:22:50 GMT -8
The artwork has serious flaws. This makes me question the accuracy of the underlying model. well, I just received one car in SP decoration and compared it to a Tangent model of a similar prototype. I was NOT impressed by the Class One artwork. also, the car body ist slightly longer (about 1mm) for Class One then for Tangent. IMO, Class One reminds me of Intermountain when it comes to having issues with quality control and accuracy. This puts Class One on par with Intermmountain, but behind both Tangent and Scaletrains. It appears that, with the Thrall 86' Boxcars, Class One has adopted Intermountain's "One size fits all" approach to prototypes of repainted rolling-stock by having multiple road numbers of boxcars of the same road name having the same exact artwork, which is very evident in the GTW, UP and CR repaints. Tangent and Scaletrains are much more thorough with specific repaints showing unique differences depending on the road number.
The Class One Thrall 86s that are later repaints are also still in their as-delivered late 1960s configuration and lack the extra "Auxiliary Top Crank" arms on top of the plug doors, something that Scaletrains and Tangent would have included.
In fact, the Scaletrains' artwork for their Thrall 86's show these 1970s and later post-delivery modifications.
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Post by prr 4467 on May 10, 2024 18:08:10 GMT -8
Here's the only image of a correct series N&W car that I found, and it's from 1978, which is later: www.rrpicturearchives.net/showPicture.aspx?id=3122109Based upon the other photos of similar cars that I was able to find, I don't really have any kind of serious issue with the Class One N&W versions. The black assignment panel on the Class One N&W car does seem to match other similar cars, if not the one in this particular photo, where it is in a different location. There clearly are a lot of variations in the lettering of the blue N&W cars. |
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Post by espeechris on May 12, 2024 8:32:06 GMT -8
The artwork has serious flaws. This makes me question the accuracy of the underlying model. well, I just received one car in SP decoration and compared it to a Tangent model of a similar prototype. I was NOT impressed by the Class One artwork. also, the car body ist slightly longer (about 1mm) for Class One then for Tangent. And here the images, comparing Tangent's Greenville to Class One's Thrall:  
 Two things caught my eye immediately ... the awkward font of the big SP logo on the Class One car ... and the thinner grey arrows pointing towards it. Maybe the ACI label behind the door-bar is a bit too far off, but would definitely be really a PITA to do on your own ... Unfortunately all my / our literature could not provide (any?) good prototype picture of such a SP Thrall car ... Chris |
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Post by wagnersteve on May 12, 2024 8:48:54 GMT -8
Mother's Day, a little before 1 p.m., EDT
espeechris, am I right to judge by your descriptions that the the model of SP 615272 is from Class One Model Works and the one of AP 616534 is from Tangent Scale Models?
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Post by hudsonyard on May 12, 2024 9:28:06 GMT -8
the ACI tag behind the door is certainly a choice, i'd like to see if there was any prototype reference for that (it did happen) or is it just a factory screw up.
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Post by TBird1958 on May 12, 2024 10:12:59 GMT -8
Here's SP 615272 While the lettering diagram was likely the same for the prototype, I'm not surprised to see that there would be some differences from one builder to another.  |
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Post by schroed2 on May 12, 2024 10:13:43 GMT -8
Mother's Day, a little before 1 p.m., EDT espeechris, am I right to judge by your descriptions that the the model of SP 615272 is from Class One Model Works and the one of AP 616534 is from Tangent Scale Models? correct...I made the pictures and Chris posted them |
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Post by schroed2 on May 12, 2024 10:15:52 GMT -8
While the lettering diagram was likely the same for the prototype, I'm not surprised to see that there would be some differences from one builder to another. of course, but if you compare the picture you posted to those of the model, there are some obvious difference (like the location of the ACI label and the width of the grea stripe/arrow...). Also, somehow the roof on the prototype car does not look red...  |
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Post by TBird1958 on May 12, 2024 10:23:08 GMT -8
While the lettering diagram was likely the same for the prototype, I'm not surprised to see that there would be some differences from one builder to another. of course, but if you compare the picture you posted to those of the model, there are some obvious difference (like the location of the ACI label and the width of the grea stripe/arrow...). Also, somehow the roof on the prototype car does not look red... Agreed, and the large SP appears a bit different as well, though I've certainly seen worse. |
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Post by prr 4467 on May 12, 2024 12:34:11 GMT -8
Have seen this with other Tangent hi cubes: where IC cars had orange painted roofs, but ICG repaints of the exact same cars (40' mini hi cubes) had a galvanized roof with a little orange overspray.
In real life, if the factory painted red paint over the entire galvanized roof at original construction, would not that paint be worn away revealing the galvanized roof by a decade later? Is that what we are seeing in the photos?
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Post by espeechris on May 13, 2024 4:03:56 GMT -8
There are a few more things that caught my eye which prevent me from getting the model (which i'd really like to have). So summing up: ) The grey arrow looks to narrow on the bottom side; ) "Hy cube / cushion car" text layout is too low on the car sides; ) Two lined "Southern Pacific" - line spacing a tad too narrow ... ) SP and roadnumber on the left lower side - font of # and placement of SP seems off (might be some repaint, or other cars might have had this different font ...) ) ACI label should be more to the left ) Roof paint (but as mentioned by "prr 4467", might be red paint chipped of and galvanized roof visible below ...) ) big SP logo in the middle of the car - a bit too thin, font looks awkward, a patch via the Microscale decal won't help as this one has a similiar "thin" font and the background would need to be painted red (for the red SP / contrast) ) Doors - the longer i look at them, and recognizable in the SP prototype image, at least the lower crossbar on the door seems to be too narrow (maybe upper one, too). That is something i can't see on the GTW cars - at least not to that amount. Different supplier of the doors or just "a trick of the light" ? There are few options to get that amount of quirks right. A few things would definitely be fixable, for some - either repainting the whole sides of the car and probably still not having the perfect decals for that (at hand), or alternatively weather the heck out of them and get away with some of issues (and just patch it here and there ...). Nah - not wanting to do either of these, too many other projects at hand  Chris |
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Post by 12bridge on May 13, 2024 5:24:51 GMT -8
The (unfortunate) reality is they are still likely "close enough" for the 90%er's that circle burn at the clubs.
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Post by surlyknuckle on May 13, 2024 8:43:11 GMT -8
I purchased a Chessie. Underwhelmed...besides the data font not really matching the prototype, there is some pretty glaring errors such as the "2002" paint date for the car (really....?). People have complained about the pale yellow of the lettering but it does seem to match the Ron Hawkins shot of a car. I would argue either do that specific car or choose one with more common attributes instead of doing a cross of several and not being correct for either (like my Rapido CR X72 for example). I can modify the car to my liking with additional door latches and re-doing the end grab eyelets...but repainting and relettering a car...I shouldn't have to do it...not like good, accurate decals even exist for it. I will probably change what I can and weather it. But I don't think I will be getting any more. Let down.
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