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Post by michaele on Oct 1, 2023 4:18:50 GMT -8
Br.232 of the Erfurter Bahn Service with a rake of logs passing Oberrittersgrün. Model is Piko Expert using a Loksound 5 with custom sound file.
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Post by danpik on Oct 1, 2023 8:21:32 GMT -8
Now that summer is pretty much over, a little time in the shop yielded these... Dan
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Post by dti406 on Oct 1, 2023 9:11:49 GMT -8
Good morning from cloudy and mild Northeast Ohio! Here is what I accomplished this week! First, another PRR G39 Ore Jenny, painted with Scalecoat II Black paint and lettered with Middle Division decals. This brings the fleet up to 46 cars. Next up an Intermountain ART Reefer kit, painted with Scalecoat II Reefer Yellow, Boxcar Red and Black Paint, then lettered with Champ Decals. ART was formed by the MP and Wabash to bring produce from Texas, Arkansas, and Oklahoma to the Midwest and Eastern cities. Also did another prepainted Bowser PRR H21a hopper car kit, I did dullcoat the car to remove most of the shine from the paint. I have started work on a Moloco GATC RBL for the DT&I after consulting with Nick Molo on which kit to use for the car and the modifications needed to match the DTI car, I have put the flat sides of the kit together along with the underframe and have started on the underside brake and cushioning detail. In the background you can see the load that will be going on the depressed center flat I built previously. Last week our club had an op session, I used my new Rapido RS-11's on the Mallet Creek loco, they ran superbly and I had a lot of fun with running the local. Thanks for looking! Rick Jesionowski
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Post by cera2254 on Oct 1, 2023 9:45:24 GMT -8
Not a photo, but rather a video of my layout. This was the first full train to run the whole railroad.
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Post by drsvelte on Oct 1, 2023 10:30:12 GMT -8
Norfolk & Western #140011 100-ton 12-panel Triple Hopper Class H12 By the 1970s, the Norfolk & Western Railway’s huge fleet of coal cars was becoming a bit long in the tooth. The oldest of the 70-ton H-2s and H-10s were beginning to be retired and the last new hopper design, the H-11, was about 10 years old. In 1974, the N&W launched production of a new series of coal cars with the introduction of the 100-ton H-12 class. These were a completely new design; they were 16” longer in length and featured a 30° slope sheet of a shallower angle than the preceding H-11s. Over the course of its production cycle, a total of 3,833 H-12s were built from 1974 through 1978. For the model, I started with an undecorated Bachmann Silver Series 100-ton hopper. It differs from the Bowser 100-ton model in that it has the 30° (or “straight”) slope sheets characteristic of the actual H-12, whereas the Bowser has a steeper 45° angle. The difference is apparent in a side view where the end sheets are visibly deeper. An ExactRail draft gear box was fitted with Kadee #158 couplers. Coupler lift levers and train air lines from Tangent were added. The model was painted with Tamiya matte black lacquer and decaled with the large NW “F6” scheme from Herald King (H-50). The model rides on Tangent’s Barber S-2 100-ton RB Trucks with 36” wheels (TSM-401).
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Post by myoungwisc on Oct 1, 2023 11:39:08 GMT -8
I'm on a run-through caboose kick...this week taking on a project to paint and decal an OMI MKT ICC caboose. My version will be #102 as it made several trips on the Soo Line north of Chicago. In researching these cars, it seems that by the mid-1980's, no paint and lettering on these cars was the same. This is what makes prototype modeling fun, right? Model was primed with Tamiya and painted with Tru-Color. The stepwells and end platforms will be painted black, along with the splash guards and ladders. The remaining handrails will be yellow. Future polish and decals to follow soon after.
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Post by wagnersteve on Oct 1, 2023 14:14:27 GMT -8
cc2254, thanks for posting your video and congratulations on what occasioned it! The train is impressive, even to me, though I don't buy or build Penn Central or Contrail models myself, since my favorite railroads predated both of those and had trouble competing with them.
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Post by wagnersteve on Oct 1, 2023 14:15:26 GMT -8
Sunday, October 1, about 6:15 p.m. EDT, after t he end of the final Red Sox game of the 2023 season
cc2254, thanks for posting your video and congratulations on what occasioned it! The train is impressive, even to me, though I don't buy or build Penn Central or Conrail models myself, since my favorite railroads predated both of those and had trouble competing with them.
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Post by simulatortrain on Oct 1, 2023 15:30:13 GMT -8
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Post by wp8thsub on Oct 2, 2023 18:23:18 GMT -8
Model was primed with Tamiya and painted with Tru-Color. ...Future polish and decals to follow soon after. I'm curious about using Future after painting with Tru-Color. I've always found Tru-Color to be sufficiently glossy that no additional gloss has been needed. Have you found an advantage to adding more gloss after trying decals on plain Tru-Color?
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Post by soolinerr on Oct 3, 2023 6:38:42 GMT -8
What a great looking model of a very interesting prototype.
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Post by myoungwisc on Oct 3, 2023 19:14:00 GMT -8
Model was primed with Tamiya and painted with Tru-Color. ...Future polish and decals to follow soon after. I'm curious about using Future after painting with Tru-Color. I've always found Tru-Color to be sufficiently glossy that no additional gloss has been needed. Have you found an advantage to adding more gloss after trying decals on plain Tru-Color? Rob- I've found that using Future with any paint improves the likelihood that decal edges will "disappear" - or at least be made much less noticeable. This is in comparison to applying them directly onto a Tru-Color finished surface and then applying a gloss or dull coat sealer. I'll share photos once this model makes it through the gauntlet. -Martin
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Post by Colin 't Hart on Oct 3, 2023 23:16:58 GMT -8
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Post by stevef45 on Oct 4, 2023 3:52:36 GMT -8
Use my wife's cricut to figure out how to cut windows for my MP20 cab. Figured out how to resize them and then figured out how to cut them on vinyl but not clear styrene yet. The styrene would move and mess up the cutting. 20231003_190653 by Tripps Pics79, on Flickr 20231003_194231 by Tripps Pics79, on Flickr
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Post by myoungwisc on Oct 4, 2023 5:18:28 GMT -8
Interesting - I'll have to try that product. The only thing I don't like about Future is the subtle yellowing the blogger describes. Thanks for the heads up! -Martin
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Post by Mr. Trainiac on Oct 4, 2023 8:06:48 GMT -8
Use my wife's cricut to figure out how to cut windows for my MP20 cab. Figured out how to resize them and then figured out how to cut them on vinyl but not clear styrene yet. The styrene would move and mess up the cutting. 20231003_190653 by Tripps Pics79, on Flickr 20231003_194231 by Tripps Pics79, on Flickr What settings are you using that causes the styrene to shift? I've cut 0.010" styrene to make passenger car sides with my cricut before. I select the material for 'magnetic sheet' and run two passes. Unless I remove the mat from the machine, I never have issues with the blade lining up with the previous cut. I am using the default green mat that comes with the machine.
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Post by stevef45 on Oct 4, 2023 10:34:18 GMT -8
Use my wife's cricut to figure out how to cut windows for my MP20 cab. Figured out how to resize them and then figured out how to cut them on vinyl but not clear styrene yet. The styrene would move and mess up the cutting. 20231003_190653 by Tripps Pics79, on Flickr 20231003_194231 by Tripps Pics79, on Flickr What settings are you using that causes the styrene to shift? I've cut 0.010" styrene to make passenger car sides with my cricut before. I select the material for 'magnetic sheet' and run two passes. Unless I remove the mat from the machine, I never have issues with the blade lining up with the previous cut. I am using the default green mat that comes with the machine. Wife explained that we "need that mat for the printer" after we tried using straight styrene under the cutter with no mat. This is all new to me. So I just ordered more clear styrene, different cutting head and will pick up a matt tomorrow to hold the styrene down. Im also going to use a blow dryer and heat up the styrene sheets to get them flatter. These two i had yesterday curved up AAAAA LOT!
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