Opening an Atlas SD24

[edwardsutorik]

I'd like to get inside an Atlas SD24. Apparently, you're supposed to squeeze it just right (and maybe tickle its belly). I saw a Youtube demonstration. I found the (hidden) Atlas instructions on the matter.

So I squoze. And squoze some more. Nuthin'. Squoze here and squoze there. And also between, I squoze. And tried wiggling bits and pieces as I squoze. Still nuthin'.

I'd really like not to damage the poor thing. Which is extremely likely if I throw it across the room.

Anyone have some advice on this?



Ed

[bnsf971]

There are a pair of tabs you need to deal with up inside the trucks, then three clips on either side of the long hood that are probably best accessed from over the top of the fuel tank. And of course the couplers, but I know you're smart enough to have already pulled them.

[cpr4200]

Just dug mine out. I squoze right under the middle cooling fan at the running board, right over the center of the fuel tank at the running board, and at the midpoint of the short hood right above the battery box. Success! Cab and hoods popped right off.

[Christian]

My experience with other Atlas locomotives is that sometimes paint glues them together. Also, I found that you have to squeeze harder than you might want. Using the parts diagram, I squeeze at the latches on the long hood while pulling down on the walkway. When there is motion, I quickly stick some styrene in the gap and then go to work on the cab latches. When it finally comes apart, I grab a file and reduce the latches to almost nothing so that the locomotive can come apart in the future. Every one of them that I've opened came very close to flight.

[edwardsutorik]

Yup, I pulled the couplers.

A thing I was/am wondering: does the walkway piece stay behind on the "underframe", or does it also come off with the body?

A long time ago, I took a couple of their B40-8's apart. Equally "interesting". Following someone's suggestion, I glued to walkway and body together, and remove the "latching mechanism". Thus the coupler boxes only were holding things together. I'm hoping to do the same thing again, as once is more than enough.

Thanks, guys. 'Preciate your thoughts!


Ed

[tom]

To make it much, much more easier in the future once the shell is removed glue the body to the sill. Once dry trim off all of the tabs that hole the body to the sill. The couplers boxes hold the shell onto the frame securely and it is now very easy to remove the entire shell without damaging anything.

Just remember to remove the tabs before reinstalling the shell. If you don't then it is very difficult to remove.

[jacksong1218]

Another helpful thing I have found is to stick toothpicks in the tabs from the underside to hold them "open" and then pull the shell off. It seems to be 50 - 50 if the sill goes with the long hood or not.

[bnsf971]

Mar 28, 2024 9:24:33 GMT -8 edwardsutorik said:

Yup, I pulled the couplers.

A thing I was/am wondering: does the walkway piece stay behind on the "underframe", or does it also come off with the body?

A long time ago, I took a couple of their B40-8's apart. Equally "interesting". Following someone's suggestion, I glued to walkway and body together, and remove the "latching mechanism". Thus the coupler boxes only were holding things together. I'm hoping to do the same thing again, as once is more than enough.

Thanks, guys. 'Preciate your thoughts!


Ed

I did the "glue it" thing, and got too much in a hurry.I assembled before the glue dried, which I didn't find out until the next time I had to pull it apart. That episode ended--badly.

[edwardsutorik]

GOT IT!

Thank you all for your encouragement and ideas!

I had previously pulled off the fuel tank, and had been able to get a couple of toothpicks through the tab slots, but there's NO WAY to do that for the ones towards the ends, from below. But, inspired by yourselves, I kept fiddling around with it. A little wiggle here, a gently prying there, and.............

I believe the major part of the problem is/was caused by the sound enclosure casting. There's sort of a wall on the rear of it that goes all across the body space. That keeps the squeezin' from gettin' squoze. Also it's wide enough to make a LOT of friction even after you've got the tabs dealt with. Good news is that it's being replaced by a Sound System box.

Other thing I learned from a lad on YouTube: it's a good idea to "unplug" the stanchions for the last five or so positions, so as to lessen the chance of bending them while mucking about. So far, anyway, it looks like a good idea.


And thanks again!!!!


Ed

PS:

I found that the rear headlight LED board was mounted off-center, and extended past the edge of the enclosure casting. This is likely what made that area too wide. Now that things are open, I can do some corrections.