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Post by cpr4200 on Aug 18, 2024 16:35:42 GMT -8
What would you recommend for cementing .005" styrene (doors and panels, etc) to plastic shells? Solvents seem to be too strong and distort or melt the stuff. Canopy glue? Something else?
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Post by Mr. Trainiac on Aug 18, 2024 18:39:47 GMT -8
I would just use CA glue. Use a slow-acting glue to give yourself a few seconds to position the part properly. For a larger part like a door, it should have no problem holding the part in place.
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Post by edwardsutorik on Aug 18, 2024 19:25:03 GMT -8
I would position the part properly BEFORE I applied the CA glue. Then just let it wick in.
Ed
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Post by tillamook on Aug 18, 2024 21:53:19 GMT -8
I had good results with limonene based cements, but the curing time is quite long, so CA might be a better choice.
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Post by Christian on Aug 19, 2024 4:34:06 GMT -8
Let me repeat some basics for those who are acquiring skills. Styrene down to 0.010" is fine with either of the Tamiya cements. 0.005" styrene often buckles with solvents. I use CA. Lots of brands out there. VMS has several formulations that are popular with military modelers. I use a bottle of medium-set CA off of Amazon along with VMS black. Keep your CA in the refrigerator. Put a drop onto a parts baggie. It will be usable for several minutes. I stick a toothpick into the top of my CA bottle to wick up the cement in the nozzle. I pull it out before it sets and then give the bottle a thump onto the table to get the CA to run out of the tube. I have a sewing needle stuck in a bit of dowel that I have used for applying CA for decades. Hold the parts together, gather a speck of CA onto the needle, and touch it to the joint. I keep a bit of torn paper towel handy to wick up any excess. It takes very little CA to make a permanent joint. Parts that I can place without fussing I wet with the puddle of CA and then put it in place. Do NOT use CA with clear styrene, acrylic, or glass. It will fog. It might take a couple of days, but it will fog the clear materials. This is where you reach for canopy cement or for Weldbond. After clear material has glazed windows, do not use CA for parts that will be enclosed. Even better, stop using CA at that time for anything other than the smallest details that are not near a window.     |
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Post by nsc39d8 on Aug 19, 2024 4:53:27 GMT -8
I have to agree with everything Christian stated. I will add I have had good results on .005 styrene with the Tamiya extra thin cement.
Using a method which I think is Tamara's instructions of applying the cement to the part and the area to be glued and area to be glued
and allowing to partially dry before putting the two part together. Do this with a mostly dry brush from the container.
I generally use those credit card type hotel keys you get now to place my CA onto. I use a piece of old .012 brass wire for small applications.
I have started to use the VMS product line for adhesives and love them so far. The black for photo etch is extremely nice.
One method I learned from Tony Sissons is to drill a hole behind the part to be glued and apply the adhesive thru the hole allowing it to wick behind
the part. This works for CA and liquid plastic cements.
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Post by packer on Aug 19, 2024 8:19:55 GMT -8
Just going to tack on to this thread, but would .005" styrene be suitable for making gusset plates?
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Post by Christian on Aug 19, 2024 9:29:33 GMT -8
Just going to tack on to this thread, but would .005" styrene be suitable for making gusset plates? It scales out to a smidge over 7/16" |
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Post by packer on Aug 19, 2024 9:52:56 GMT -8
Just going to tack on to this thread, but would .005" styrene be suitable for making gusset plates? It scales out to a smidge over 7/16" I'm unsure if that's too thick or to thin, but it's from one of the group of cars I'm modeling |
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Post by cpr4200 on Aug 19, 2024 19:15:25 GMT -8
7/16 is a little less than a half inch. Maybe a little thick for rolling stock gussets, good for bridges, I'd say.
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Post by SOMECALLMETIM on Aug 22, 2024 11:44:54 GMT -8
A little late to this topic, but in the March/April 2024 issue of "The O Scale Resource" eMagazine there is an article by Ross Dando that covers this very topic where he tests different glues on .005 styrene. He determined that Microscale Micro Weld worked best.
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Post by Colin 't Hart on Aug 25, 2024 11:33:04 GMT -8
I had good results with limonene based cements, but the curing time is quite long... How long? |
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Post by tillamook on Sept 2, 2024 23:12:09 GMT -8
I had good results with limonene based cements, but the curing time is quite long... How long? It's been a long time since I last used it, but I usually clamped the parts with masking tape and let it rest for at least 10 minutes. |
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